79-93 steering racks - does one size fit all???

[wingnut180]

It's time to replace the rack in my 79 hatch.
I wanted to get a 2.5 turn rack but the chain auto parts stores don't list one for 1979.

I know that each year they had 3-4 different part numbers, both ford and trw racks, and also pwr and manual racks.

I started looking at different year mustang racks on some parts websites,
and find every few years they have a different set of part numbers and prices.

talked to the guy at a local parts store and he couldn't come up with any answers as to what was different with these racks or why the 79 racks are so much more expensive than the ones around 87. even the core charge on the 79 rack is ridiculous when compared to the 87.

Is there any good reason i couldn't just buy the 87 2.5 turn pwr rack and just bolt it into the 79 car?

Is the 79 rack considered a better part? (does cost = quality)

will a trw rack fit where a ford design rack came out of and vise versa?

Also, aftermarket racks seem to list just one number for pwr and another for manual for all the foxes 79-93. Does this make any sense when oem styled racks have like a dozen different numbers?

I could use some help running down the differences in racks over the different years if there really are some.

BTW i have an efi conversion with an 87 ps pump on the car already if that would make a difference.

[wraithracing]

According to the Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference & Performance Handbook.

Manual steering was offered from 79-84 and then discontinued and was a 4.08 lock to lock.

Power steering was offered from 79-93 and became standard in 1984 as manual was no longer offered.

Early PS racks were made by TRW, then in 1982 Ford began a running change over to the Ford racks. All 83-93 Mustangs were equipped with Ford racks.

The 79 Mustang/Capri racks are essentially carry overs from the 1978 Fairmont/Zephyr. These racks are unique due to the fact that they have variable ratio steering gear. This was an industry first in that the steering ratio changes as the wheels are turned off center and the ratio increases as you steer more towards the end of their travel.

Ford also offered a "firm feel" rack that was a 20:1 ratio used with the performance suspension and or performance items such as the V8 engine, turbo 4, Cobra, and TRX package etc.

The late 83.5 -85 racks for the 5.0 are all the 15:1 ratio racks (also called 14.7:1 ratio) and these are constat ratio racks and are 2.46 turns lock to lock.

The 86 5.0 rack is essentially the same as above but the 86 GT had a larger turning circle than the previous models.

The 87-93 5.0 rack is essentially the same as above with the exception that it is 2.25 turns lock to lock.

The difference in lock to lock turns appears to be the factory racks fitted with travel restictors. The 87-93 appear to have 2 sets of the limiters installed to help prevent rubbing with the original 60 series tires that were fitted.

You should be able to install any of the racks listed above onto your Mustang. There are differences in the mounting hardware and the bushings, (79-84 & 84-93) but many of the replacment racks include both sets of bushings. You can also install performance poly rack bushings. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=463 I do not recommend installing the offset bushings in most stock street style cars. I also recommend the steering shaft from Maximum Motorsports as a great upgrade. It really helps to remove the slop from the stock rag joint. It will also help with header clearance, especially if you run long tubes. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=980

Since you have an 87 pump already, I would recommend getting a rack for an 87 V8 Mustang and you should be just fine. Unfortunately the feeling of the Mustang steering can vary greatly depending on pump, rack, tie rods, alignment, tires, etc. Many complain of too much boost and a numb feeling. Your experience may vary.

Hope that helps a bit.

Good Luck!

Trey

The

[FoxChassis]

The late 83.5 -85 racks for the 5.0 are all the 15:1 ratio racks (also called 14.7:1 ratio) and these are constat ratio racks and are 2.46 turns lock to lock.

The 86 5.0 rack is essentially the same as above but the 86 GT had a larger turning circle than the previous models.

The 87-93 5.0 rack is essentially the same as above with the exception that it is 2.22 turns lock to lock.

Any '83½ or later Capri/Mustang with the "handling suspension package" included the 15:1 steering rack, among other items specific to that package. That rack was not available as a separate option.

Not only did the 5.0L include/require the handling suspension, but the 2.3T (Turbo RS/GT and SVO) did as well.

The handling suspension was optional with every other engine/trim level/model/series/body.

[wingnut180]

man you guys have the coolest books.
That pretty much sorts it out for me. Thanks a whole bunch

[gr79]

It has been 10 years since replacement.
Still cannot positively ID the OEM rack that was in mine. Still have it.

Anyway, converting over to a later style rack:
Another problem you may run into is both hose end fittings (diameter) rack side not matching the rack hose ports.
I believe the pump end fitting is the same, early and late.

Back to the rack hoses...
What you have now may match the port size for the new rack -or not.

If not, the best way to size hoses is with the rack on the parts counter.
Saves running back and forth to the store.

A store with a wide selection helps a ton.
Having to special order till you get the right ones may be very time consuming.
I lucked out with only one reorder. New rack was already in car.

When i did mine, the catalogs were not clear on the hose apps and specs.
Nor on rack apps and specs.

You don't want to have to, nor have to, use hose fitting adapters.
If using non-stock tires, rack limiters stop the inside edge of tire from contacting the a-arm, chassis, and wheel well plastic liner.

[wraithracing]

I didn't think about the hoses due to the OP running the 87 pump. I generally buy hoses to match the rack and pump, so most of the time I don't have any issues. I know the correct fittings for the racks have been discussed over at corner-carvers.com and IIRC Jack Hidley of Maximum Motorsports stated that the fittings in the rack are all the same. I know the website shows the AN fittings, for those that wish to convert to braided lines, are the same from 79-04. But as many of use have found out the 79 models sometimes seem to have equipment that no one has seen or heard of before.

So to the OP I would recommend either buying new hoses with the new rack or at least checking your fittings early on so if you need to order something different you don't get caught in a time crunch.

Good Luck!

Trey

[IDMooseMan]

Good info here, guys. I'm subscribing. Here's my question for this topic:

Are there different power-steering rack models used for the different engines installed? Meaning...I have a '79 Mustang Ghia coupe with a 4-cyl, non-turbo engine. Is my power-steering rack different than the OP's '79 5.0L power-steering rack?

[FoxChassis]

According to the 1979 Ford Car Facts Book, there were two rack-and-pinions...

manual steering -- 24.9:1 ratio, 4.1 turns lock-to-lock
variable power steering -- 20.0:1 ratio, 3.1 turns lock-to-lock

Power steering was required with:

2.8L engine w/ AC
5.0L engine
tilt steering wheel

[IDMooseMan]

Sorry, I should have mentioned...I have the 2.3L non-turbo engine with air conditioning. Is that what you meant, Mick?

So I guess I just have to find a '79 Ford with a 2.3L engine and air conditioning to make sure I have the correct steering rack?

[kj_80Cobra]

IDMooseMan,
There were two power steering rack models used on the early Fox cars, a Ford steering rack that has an all cast aluminum housing, or a TRW steering rack that has a two part housing made of steel and cast aluminum. So if you want to match up exactly with what is installed on your car, then you need to id the one installed and find the same model replacement. I wouldn't use an old worn out rack from a junkyard as a replacement though.

[FoxChassis]

Sorry, I should have mentioned...I have the 2.3L non-turbo engine with air conditioning. Is that what you meant, Mick?

So I guess I just have to find a '79 Ford with a 2.3L engine and air conditioning to make sure I have the correct steering rack?

The three instances that I mentioned above, power steering was required/mandatory. Otherwise it was optional.

[wingnut180]

thanks for the input everyone,,

New hoses are a given, they are pretty cheap compared to everything else i've been doing to this thing. lol. thanks for the advise to check the fittings at the counter. not sure i'd have thought of that. I do have my blonde moments. lol

[IDMooseMan]

Thanks for the info, KJ and Mick. Yeah, I wasn't clear when I said that. I didn't mean I was gonna replace my '79 steering rack with a JY steering rack. I was just trying to figure out what I should be looking for, when the time comes.

The information and knowledge exchange around here amazes me. Awesome, thy name is FEP!

[gr79]

When the rack is out and access is best
Couple more items to consider replacing, if it is that time:
outer tie rod ends
steering coupler/rag joint

[82GTforME]

It has been 10 years since replacement.
Still cannot positively ID the OEM rack that was in mine. Still have it.

Anyway, converting over to a later style rack:
Another problem you may run into is both hose end fittings (diameter) rack side not matching the rack hose ports.
I believe the pump end fitting is the same, early and late.

Back to the rack hoses...
What you have now may match the port size for the new rack -or not.

If not, the best way to size hoses is with the rack on the parts counter.
Saves running back and forth to the store.

A store with a wide selection helps a ton.
Having to special order till you get the right ones may be very time consuming.
I lucked out with only one reorder. New rack was already in car.

When i did mine, the catalogs were not clear on the hose apps and specs.
Nor on rack apps and specs.

You don't want to have to, nor have to, use hose fitting adapters.
If using non-stock tires, rack limiters stop the inside edge of tire from contacting the a-arm, chassis, and wheel well plastic liner.

Ran into this problem myself. I had the TRW in my 82 and got a reman Cardone (catalog states 79-93 replacements-15-1- are the same now from them). Units from Ford are long obsolete and I couldn't find a proper replacement. Nothing mentioned anywhere that the connections were different, but having the rack out allows checking at the parts store for new hoses MUCH easier. Hoses are getting slightly harder to find (pressure) and the fitting/tube at the rack (return).

[gr79]

Far as i know, end fittings on the PS pump can be interchanged to match the pressure hose (taken from the old pump to replacement pump).

Just for fun, recently took small end fitting from an SVO pump.
SVO fit on the 79 pump just fine.
Also the 79 fit on the SVO pump just fine.
The SVO pump could be used on the 79 by changing the small pressure hose end fittings.

However, the SVO pump fitting's threads did not match the threads on the 79 pressure hose currently installed.

Did not have to change the big nut part, just the small end fitting with the o-ring.

[PaceFever79]

Anyone know if the TRW and Ford rack mounting bolts are also interchangeable? (same length / diameter)

[82GTforME]

Anyone know if the TRW and Ford rack mounting bolts are also interchangeable? (same length / diameter)

I'm assuming so. The poly rack bushings I got for an "82 V8" fit the Ford rack. I'll be putting this in on the weekend, the bolts better fit I'll let you know.

[Farmer83]

I'm assuming so. The poly rack bushings I got for an "82 V8" fit the Ford rack. I'll be putting this in on the weekend, the bolts better fit I'll let you know.

Kind of unrelated to the stock stuff being discussed but might be worth mentioning.
I went with a Uni-Steer manual rack (Summits house brand). The supplied poly bushings with the steel inserts would not fit either K-member (stock vs tubular). Without the inserts there was excessive slop. I cleaned up the stock rubber bushings,put them in the new rack & the fit was perfect.
I guess there might be different id measurement bushings out there. I thought all K-member rack mounting bosses were the same od.

[PaceFever79]

Kind of unrelated to the stock stuff being discussed but might be worth mentioning.
I went with a Uni-Steer manual rack (Summits house brand). The supplied poly bushings with the steel inserts would not fit either K-member (stock vs tubular). Without the inserts there was excessive slop. I cleaned up the stock rubber bushings,put them in the new rack & the fit was perfect.
I guess there might be different id measurement bushings out there. I thought all K-member rack mounting bosses were the same od.

I had a similar experience with the AutoZone reman TRW rack (American Gear brand IIRC)

The new bushings that came with the rack, the bushing ID was too big (sloppy)
Like they were for a Ford Rack. So I had to reuse my old bushings.

[82GTforME]

The Energy Suspension Poly bushings I got and the sleeve that came with the reman rack all fit perfectly. Installing unit on the weekend. Good luck to me...

[Hissing Cobra]

I'm reviving this thread because I went to buy a new rack today and both parts stores couldn't give me a definitive answer on what to order. I'm replacing the rack in my '79 Cobra that I installed back in 2001 because it's too "loose". In other words, if I'm on the highway and touch the steering wheel slightly, the car wants to veer in that direction immediately. It's just too "touchy" for my liking and I would like to install one like my brother's stock unit in his '85 GT.

I'm not sure what I have for a rack in the car right now because when I installed it back in 2001, I took it out of an '86 GT that I bought from a junkyard and stripped for parts before sending it back to them. I don't know if it's an '86 rack or not as the car was a "Frankenstein" comprised of many parts from many different years. I checked the rack for the inner tie rods (which were good), installed new outer tie rods, cleaned/painted it, and installed it. It's been there since but the "sketchiness" of it while driving is getting old. I did install the '86 K-member so when I went to the auto parts stores this afternoon, I inquired about a Power Steering rack for an '86 Mustang GT. One store listed two racks while the other listed four racks.

My question to all of you is this; Which one would I need and if anyone's got actual part numbers that would help as well. On a side note, I do have a Flaming River solid steering shaft with no rag joint (I needed it to clear my longtube headers). Would this contribute to the "looseness/sketchiness" while driving?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[wraithracing]

Pete,

I am not sure I would describe your issue as a "loose" rack. Normally when the rack wears the spacing between the rack and pinion gears gets sloppy so the steering is slower or less precious. You situation sounds more like a possible alignment issue than the rack IMHO. I would recommend checking your toe and caster of your Cobra before dumping the cash into a rack that might not solve the problem. Having the toe set incorrectly or having the caster way off side to side can cause issues like what you are describing.

If the rack is the issue, then replacing it with a Ford rack is most likely what you need to do. Essentially if the rack is two pieces, then it's a TRW, if it's one casting of aluminum it's a Ford rack. An 85 GT rack would be essentially a 2.5 turns lock to lock as described by most suppliers. Many also show the 2.25 turns lock to lock as an option. The difference is the number of rack limiting washers on the rack. It was either the 87 GT or the 91 GT (with 16" wheels) that went to the 2.25 racks to prevent rubbing on the inner wheel wells. This also makes the turning radius wider.

I would verify if your rack is a TRW or Ford if you don't already know. Then after that if it's a Ford rack as I suspect, I would pick up a 2.50 lock to lock unit and install it.

Hope that helps and Good Luck!

Trey

[Hissing Cobra]

Thanks Trey. I'm not too sure of it being an alignment issue as I had the car aligned after installing it. I also replaced all of the front end suspension components with brand new units (ball joints, struts, springs, bushings, etc...) before the alignment. The tires that were on the front were also new at that time and I just replaced them earlier this year after nine years of driving it. The car tracks nice and straight and there was no abnormal tire wear so I'm stumped. I'm guessing that I have a 4-cylinder rack in there now but I won't know until I begin looking at it. All I know is that it's too "touchy". I'll do some more digging on the rack I have now and get back to you guys.

[wraithracing]

Ok, the first question I will ask is who did the alignment. I ask that because there are several ways to do an alignment. Most shops normally do a "quick and easy" which is often referred to as "Set the Toe and Go!" This makes the tech and the shop the most money and will satisfy 90% of the cars. After that you have much more precise alignment that actually set the camber and caster to factory setting or even to tight factory settings.

You didn't specify if you had Caster/Camber plates, so I will guess you do not. If you do, that can also help or cause alignment issues again depending on the shop.

The reason I bring all this up is that the "touchy" description for the steering input is often a misalignment issue. Assuming that your alignment is good and everything is within specifications. Then my guess would be that you have a GT or V8 rack and not a 4 or 6 cylinder rack. As the turns lock to lock gets smaller 2.5 compared to 3.0 there is more wheel turning for every degree of steering wheel input. This means that the "sport" or GT steering is faster and would more likely cause the "touchy" feeling than the "non sport" rack. The sport steering is generally heavier at lower speed compared to the easy Grandma steering of the non sport. The non sport steering also tends to feel more Lincoln or soft at freeway speeds due to the slower rate.

After rereading your last post, I am more confused , has this problem been on going or just recently? Just since you installed new tires?

Trey