Close



Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Torque boxes

  1. #1

    Default Torque boxes

    Does this look like typical damage? The sheetmetal is bent forward of the control arm on both sides. T-top car, I think I may need to go with the reinforcements and maybe the Stifflers subframe connectors.

    Name:  15922EDD-EA13-4152-AC92-06FF049402FF.jpeg
Views: 151
Size:  59.8 KB
    Last edited by BossP351; 06-05-2021 at 08:23 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    I don't see any damage of any type in that photo.

    Realize that some of the holes and edges of some of the metal pieces are bent on purpose to give them more stiffness.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    13,693

    Default

    As Jack mentioned that is standard Fox torque boxes. Everything is perfectly fine. No damage that I can see either.

    Save yourself the time, the money, and the frustration. Forget the reinforcements. Install a good set of full length subframe connectors (personally like Maximum Motorsports) and then spend the money on a good set of lower control arms. (Again personally I only use the Maximum Motorsport lower control arms)

    DON'T believe the internet lore that all torque boxes get torn up and the only way to solve it is the reinforcements, battle boxes, etc. If you are a serious/hardcore drag racing running 10 seconds or less and 800 lb/FT of torque, then YES you might want to consider some reinforcements, full cage, and other things. If you are running it on the street and occasionally on the strip, then stay away from poly bushings at both ends of the lower control arms. Run a quality lower like MM and DON'T run anything for uppers except a set of OEM arms with rubber bushings. NO POLY!!!!

    Now if you want to really improve the suspension then you need to look at a Torque Arm setup, but that's a whole 'nother rabbit hole. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks, just a cruiser somewhere between a mild 331 and an iron head 408 Clevor. MM sounds like the way to go, also for the front crossmember. could you expand on the stock uppers?

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    13,693

    Default

    If you are staying with the stock style Quadra Bind suspension, then you want to keep the stock upper control arms and use good quality replacement rubber bushings in both the rear axle position and on the body position. The reason is the stock upper actually twist and elongate as the suspension cycles up and down. If you use poly or anything else such as square tube control arms, etc. that is not possible and you induce additional binding in the suspension. Same is actually true to a similar degree for the lower control arm. That is why you want to use a quality replacement such as Maximum Motorsports or something else similar in design that allows the lower control arm to articulate as it needs to while moving through the suspension range. Also I have only found replacement bushings once or twice for the lowers and since Ford only serviced them as complete units, the bushing costs were almost as much as a new set of control arms from MM. Visit here for more tech: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/t...susp_rlca.aspx
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6

    Default

    Read through the link below on roll bind testing.

    http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...98&postcount=5
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Read through the link below on roll bind testing.

    http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...98&postcount=5
    How about spherical bushings for the uppers? I donít think MM offers those and I missed the reasons.

  8. #8

    Default

    See test #10. If a spherical bearing were used at both ends, the binding would be worse than twice as bad, because the control arms couldn't change length at all.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  9. #9

    Default

    OK how about a rabbit hole? In general I've heard the Fox platform is better than the F bodies for drag racing because 'it works'. Generalization I know. How about the older 4 links(?) like the 65 Galaxie, Gran Torino(?) all the way through the Panther platform and S197(3 links?)? Similar issues?

    I'm gathering with a mild 331 MM lowers and new stock uppers would do the trick. Keep the quad shocks? I have a Motorsport kit from way back to replace them with. For the mighty 408 Clevor the trailing arm looks like the way to go.

  10. #10

    Default

    I can tell you this-
    Early Panthers (pre-nineteen ninety eight) have the same triangulated 4-link that the Fox has, only a wider/longer version.
    The later Panthers have a parallel 4-link setup, with a Watts link to control side movement.
    S197 has the 3 link with 3 parallel links, 1 upper and 2 lower, with a panhard bar to control side movement.

    Not sure which setup works better for drag racing, but I put team z rear suspension in my s197 and it launches great on the street.

    One advantage of the Fox is its light weight. A Panther or a Galaxie is going to be a lot heavier and may have different suspension requirements.
    Panther and Galaxie are full frame cars, so battle boxes would not be needed.
    79 Zephyr, 4v/4r70w swap planned, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs.

  11. #11

    Default

    It works = I don't know enough about physics to explain this

    Optimizing a solid axle car so that it has the maximum possible forward grip is not that hard to do. All of the relevant physics were analyzed many, many years ago. Unfortunately most of the people in the industry building parts for these cars have never studied any of it. I'm not joking.

    The best possible option is a 3-link (plus lateral locating device, so really a 4-link but that results in confusion with most people) with the 3rd link offset to the right side to null the driveshaft torque reaction.

    The next best option is a 4-link with a lateral locating device (so really a 5-link).

    After that I would use a Torque Arm with a lateral locating device and RLCAs.

    The first option is by far the best because it requires virtually zero adjustments and will be the lightest.

    Options two and three will have the same performance. The third option will weigh more.

    Leaf springs are by far the worst option.

    The offset 3-link is covered in great detail at the website below. If you want to learn about drag race suspension setup, I would read every single word at the link.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20180802...ntentsDrag.htm

    My post below covers some of the stuff at the above link, but in a much more succinct fashion.

    https://forums.corral.net/threads/tr...#post-16630714

    This might be helpful also.

    https://forums.corral.net/threads/be...2#post-8691306
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •