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  1. #1

    Default sprayer/air compressor for auto painting

    Looking at getting the compressor and spray gun below. First time painting a car. This should do the job, right?

    https://www.harborfreight.com/17-gal...sor-69666.html
    https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-...gun-68843.html

    Also, don't know if it matters but would you go with PVC or rubber hose?

    Will be also adding some air tools as well to the mix.

    Thanks in advance for the help.
    “V/I is futile!”
    --------------------------
    1983 Mustang GT
    1982 Capri RS 5.0

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The compressor will not work well for painting a car. Too small and too little capacity. The HVLP guns of today have huge air consumption needs. That's the High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) nature of them. In my experience and opinion trying to paint a car well with any compressor smaller than a 5 HP 80 gallon compressor is going to be a difficult task. I can attest to painting parts and pieces of several projects just recently with both an old 5 HP 33 gallon unit that only had enough air capacity to paint a fender, door, etc. at a time before running out of air or running low on pressure. I just finished painting a 1986 Bronco mostly in pieces when possible with a borrowed 5 HP 60 gallon unit. Overall worked in most cases, but again doesn't work really well when trying to paint an entire vehicle at once.

    The spray gun will work just fine, although personally I would either buy the cheaper HF guns if you don't plan on doing much painting after this, or possibly spend a little more and go with the Eastwood setup or or even one of the less expensive Sharpe, Devilbiss, etc.

    You are going to have similar air volume and pressure issues with the above compressor if using with other air tools, such as ratchets, impact guns, drills, cut off wheels, etc. They all require a decent amount of air volume and plenty of pressure for them to work properly. The compressor rating of Air delivery: 4 CFM @ 90 PSI, 5 CFM @ 40 PSI is your biggest issue for many air tools. The spray gun linked to shows average consumption of 15 CFM @40 PSI, so that compressor will not supply it well at all. Most spray guns today will require at least 6-10 CFM @ 40 PSI to function properly. Hope this helps although not the answer you were looking for I am sure.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    I have a TP Tools turbine system. The kit included everything. The turbine unit, large spray gun (gravity feed) and small touch-up gun (siphon feed), hoses. The only thing I had to buy was a few different needle/tip sets. I just looked it up and it appears they're no longer available. I'm sure someone else makes them, but I'm not sure who. It's the perfect setup for a hobbyist like myself, but you'll need to learn the specifics of painting with this type of system, as there are a few important differences. There is no compressor needed. You never run out of cfm's and you don't have to worry about moisture/oil getting into it like you do with regular compressors.

    The kit was around $600, iirc and each extra tip/needle set was $50.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    +1 on Eastwood paint system. I used a $10 gun and a 13 gal compressor and got this.....


    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Rebuild Coming Soon.
    1996 Crown Vic LX 4.6 Silver "Gort" Daily Driver

    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Current go to unit here is an older similar upright HF compressor from at a swap meet.
    Once home, was not pumping air. A little bending on the intake valve plate fixed that.
    Can paint the car decent and works fine for everything else.

    Having a mix of air, battery, and corded tools works out good.
    Sometimes one type will work better for the situation or take over same task.
    Air and battery have variable limits to time used.
    Cords, hoses, really do not get in the way if left alone. Moving them they snag on everything.
    Not really a good reason not to use them or knock them. Battery tools have come a long way but cost too much.

    Upright stationary single or dual stage are best but not everyone has 240v for them or the space.
    Gas powered compressors are an option for outdoor hd use.
    Lowes has a Dewalt cast iron twin cyl dual volt 30 gal but it aint cheap.
    Can always trade up to larger, like boat owners do.
    Oiless, one stage, two stage, the ultimate rotary screw type.
    Always is cool to see air tank holding air for weeks, no connection leaks.
    Draining water from air tank regularly really don't happen without an automatic drainer.

    Have six 120v portable compressors. Turn up occasionally at garage, estate sales cheap.
    The HF 2.5 hp 21 gal 125 oilless tank type- works better than expected
    Sanborn 2hp 20 gal cast iron belt drive one stage, vintage bought new. 6 cfm/90, 7/40- works great
    CH 1 hp tankless, heavy, vintage bought new in the 70's. 5/90, 6/40- works great
    CH oilless dual tank portable- found at curb. Minor repairs fixed it.
    BD vintage white/orange 1/4" hose tankless mini compressor with spray gun. Painted a VW with one.
    One portable 10 gal tank. Fill and go. Also as added storage tank with compressors.
    All run air tools. How long depends on air use of tool. No air d/a sanders. Use corded for that.

    Did some car panel painting. Inexpensive gravity gun, Duplicolor premix black lacquer. Came out fine.
    Trick is to practice getting the gun and working air pressure set. Use air and water filters.
    Turned out about like spray cans (which can give decent results) only faster coverage.

    Hose-
    My fav is a blue Coleman Powermate 50' x 3/8" PVC. Inexpensive, flex -20 to 150.
    Stored hose on a Suncast garden hose reel. Very quick to deploy and wind up.
    H Depot has them
    Another fave is Craftsman black polyurethane coiled 25' which is handy and ready fast. Dont get nylon.
    One 25' 3/8" pvc hose for extending and quick use.
    Also have 25' Goodyear 3/8 rubber hose. Is ok, less flexible, harder to coil up without reel.
    Can go anywhere on the house and driveway with air without moving compressors.
    Minimum 3/8 hose id although common 1/4" id ends hamper real good tool operation.

    Tool collection here used with compressors:
    Milton lever style blow gun with rubber tip
    CP air hammer with tips- works magic
    IR composite 400# impact- lug nuts, bolts- intermittant use.
    IR 3/8 lever air wrench- like factories use for small fasteners
    CP right angle cutoff tool- intemittant use. Mainly use corded type when space allows.
    Dewalt brad nailer kit- handy, low air use
    HF staple gun- works fine, low air use
    Air fitting for doing engine valve springs. Never used it.
    Water sandblaster and small portable gun. Work ok.
    CH HVLP two spray gun kit- works fine
    CH geared buffer- sucks too much air
    CH 5" d/a sander- sucks a lot of air- corded sanders better
    CH air caulking gun- works great, low air use- the only way to caulk period.
    HF metal flanging and punch tool
    HF 1/4" air riveter
    Air chucks for tires
    Boxes for tools and fittings
    All manuals stored in 3 ring binders.
    Extra gauges, extra shut off valves, various filters, regulators, quick fittings, swivels, multi air tap blocks, air tool oil.
    2 garden hose reels for hoses.

    Have run 3 compressors and portable air tank together. Not recommended but worked great.
    Multiple compressors can add cfm and storage, provided house electric is up to it.
    Last edited by gr79; 03-20-2021 at 02:05 PM.

  6. #6
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    gr79, I was going to ask if you had ever ganged compressors. I've thought about it but haven't had the need, yet. A guy could maybe borrow a compressor from a buddy. If your electrical system isn't up to it, you could run one compressor off a generator. You do have a generator, don't you?

  7. #7
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    I'll give my two cents as a rookie painter.

    I bought and used a 30 gallon compressor for the work I have done. Agreed that a larger capacity tank and the output of the compressor are to be considered.

    For me, this compressor has done what I need. When spraying the larger parts of the car or more continuously, the compressor will kick in and basically keep running. For my projects though, I never did run out of air pressure but I would pause in between coats until it caught up. Never ran into any duty cycle issues or an overload situation from running this way. The HVLP does use a lot of air, especially with the proper settings for the clearcoat.

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    For spray guns, I found and used the Devilbiss starter set. Comes with two guns. Did mostly everything I needed. Looks like Eastwood carries it too.

    https://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-a...ng-system.html

    I also bought a Harbor Freight level touch up gun (Princess Auto is a similar Canadian retailer). It works okay too but I keep it cleaned good. The quality of the gun is suspect as one adjustment knob came off after a few uses. I do not use that one very often though so serves my purposes.

    https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta....pal-prod-com1

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    ganged compressors
    That is what i meant in saying "Have run 3 compressors and portable air tank together."
    Totaled all 3 tanks combined at about 50 gal filled by three 1.5 hp motors.
    Read it can damage them. Back flow or something. Think that's if directly connected to each other, no tanks, check valves.
    So far so good. Rarely do it but if job needs them i do it.
    Used 3 separate 15 amp house circuits and started each compressor by itself.
    They did not trip any breakers restarting when refilling the tanks.
    Used tee blocks and quick connect fittings to connect all the hoses to.
    Actually was an experiment to see if ganging worked. Ran the da sander fine.
    Took a while to connect everything, hoses and cords everywhere.

    The small upright HF unit holds enough air to take 5 lug wheels off.
    Pausing during work procedures usually is enough time for it to top off its air.
    Plus taking a lot of breaks.
    Jobs that need long run time like sprayers and sanders drain small tanks quick.

    Yes have a Coleman 1600 generator too. 1978 house is 100a mains power.
    Last edited by gr79; 03-20-2021 at 02:18 PM.

  9. #9

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    as was pointed out early. the paint gun wants 15 cfm and the compressor you picked makes 5 cfm. you will have troubles with that system. think of buying one or two used compressors. i have 2 belt driven 2 hp compressors, about 10 cfm and 40 gallons of tank. this will work but a pro would not be happy. also if in your area it is humid you might need 30 feet of 3/4 pipe for cooling the air before the filter. the first time your gun / tool spits water on the project this will become more important. good luck.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    The switch went bad on my little CH twin tank unit. Used that one all the time.
    Was ready to pick up another switch when the HF unit turned up at the car show swap meet.
    Figured for 30.00 it did not run but could salvage the switch and tank.
    Turned out it runs fine once the valve plate in head was repaired. No cost.
    Needed to sand some bondo the other day.
    The d/a would work normal for about 15 sec then slow down.
    Got out the corded 5" sander.
    Faster than teaming up the compressors for a 20 minute job.

    Funny with owning 5 compressors, still look at new compressors.
    That upright black Sandborn posted is nice.
    Wonder if things have changed with the higher pressure tanks?

    Painted the side of the car one time. Black lacquer no clear.
    Came out smooth and shiny after sanding and buffing.
    So went to do the other side on another day.
    Dull sheen
    Darn the pressure was set too low. Needed 35# working, found it was at 15.
    Set pressure needed when tool is operating, not before. 35# drops quick with paint gun operating.
    Last edited by gr79; 03-20-2021 at 02:09 PM.

  11. #11
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    The Eastwood gun that only requires 4.5 cfm does look intriguing.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  12. #12

    Default small air compressor

    Is there such a thing as the perfect paintjob? That’s the big question for DIYers and professionals alike any time it comes to adding a lick of paint to the walls of the house, the garden fence or when spray painting a car. If you’re yet to ditch the brush or roller and paint tin, the first, and rather big, step on that journey is to invest in an air spray gun.


    If you’re not already familiar, spray painting guarantees a much more controlled and even finish on your work than any hand-applied brush/roller job, but just investing in any old spray paint kit and assuming it will immediately produce optimal results won’t get you too far. To avoid improper application and the dreaded “orange peel” effect, you need the right kit, and that means getting a spray paint compressor that meets the specifications your spray gun setup requires.
    Last edited by lara leo; 03-20-2021 at 06:16 AM. Reason: missing

  13. #13

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    That is one of the reasons that clear coat came into existence.

    No matter how bad you put on the color coat IE. runs, orange peel etc, you can sand it out then you put on lots of clear coat and sand/polish to a mirror finish.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gt4494 View Post
    That is one of the reasons that clear coat came into existence.

    No matter how bad you put on the color coat IE. runs, orange peel etc, you can sand it out then you put on lots of clear coat and sand/polish to a mirror finish.

    That's not exactly true. You still have to have a good base coat for a quality paint job. The base coat is often easier to spray since it dries fast and if sprayed properly will often lay down with few issues. If you sand the base coat to remove imperfections often you will want to at least spot spray and blend those areas to ensure you have full coverage and an even finish. Otherwise sand scratches, too light a base coat, etc will still be noticeable thru the clear coat. This is even more true with metallic or pearl colors. If the base is not even and well sprayed all of that will only be magnified by the clear coat.

    The nice aspect to clear coats is that if you want, you can spray 3 coats of clear over your base. Allow to dry the proper time per manufacturer, then color sand the clear to a nice flat surface. Then you can flow coat the vehicle with another 2-3 coats of clear and when done properly you will have an amazing show car finish that generally doesn't require buffing or polishing in most cases.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    HF has an inexpensive siphon feed gun for painting cars. 1.5 cfm @30psi, wp 20-55#.
    May work slower than HVLP but siphon type has been used for decades.
    https://www.harborfreight.com/indust...gun-43760.html

    They say running short of air you may lose the wet edge of paint waiting for the compressor to catch up.
    Read HVLP came on the scene in the 80's. Back then cars were repainted with pot siphon feed paint sprayers.
    Commercial or industrial shop air is more robust than most home shop air supplies. Auto painting on tv is deceiving.

    I see 3M offers an HVLP that can spray upside down and sprays multi visc materials with change of spray heads.
    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...94857497&rt=r3

    Spray painting around the home is sort of practice for auto painting. Just wait and find out the diff. Finger paint then attempting fine art.
    For painting latex stain/paint a Wagner Control Spray turbine with a I-spray nozzle works fast and clean here.
    Came with detail sprayer for doing annual thin cheap redwood stain on picnic table and fence sections with little mess.
    Bought the optional I-spray spray unit for two coat spraying a couple gallons stain/paint on siding in a couple hours.
    Although unit is all plastic, it is a bit heavy starting out with a full load say 42oz/15 minutes of material, electric cord hanging.
    Easily does that as good or better than airless hose pump type, way faster setup and cleanup.
    Sounds like a hair dryer or heat gun. Blows air into front end spray head when trigger is pulled.
    Puts down material fast, less over spray than siphon or airless. The Motorcoat unit is 3psi @14 cfm
    Wagner says Detail finish nozzle sprays thin material smooth but not fine enough for a mirror flat finish.
    Pretty fine mist may try painting car panel with it just to see if it will.
    I-spray nozzle sprays thicker will do bedliner. Both break down nicely are easy to clean, replacement parts not hard to get.
    Hose type unit would be much lighter to use with the electric motor and turbine on the ground.
    https://www.wagnerspraytech.com/prod...paint-sprayer/

    Painting cars is skilled art, a bit different than watching Bob Ross do his thing. To me it is fun and interesting work, perfect or not.
    Slow process of doing body work, redoing mistakes, not nearly so much but are necessary work tasks in the name of preservation.
    Heck, factory finish had orange peel common back then. Technically correct? Imperfect is practical for non show or daily driver.
    If a factory like finish is desired, most have no choice but to take it to Maaco, pay the piper at the auto body shop, or vinyl wrap it.
    Practice makes perfect. Learning curve, equipment, paint prep, painting environment, varies the results widely like anything else.
    Last edited by gr79; 03-20-2021 at 01:56 PM.

  16. #16
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    I said in an earlier post that the TPTools hvlp turbine kits weren't available, but I found them. Looks like they're still available... just difficult to find on their website. Here's the system I purchased.

    https://www.tptools.com/SHOWTIME-99-...+paint+systems
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  17. #17
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    https://www.turbineproducts.com/hvlp-systems/

    I have the 3 stage one, works very well and customer service is good as well. The system is customizable with different guns, projector sets (needle sets) and so on.
    Last edited by KWH; 03-20-2021 at 06:53 AM.

  18. #18
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KWH View Post
    https://www.turbineproducts.com/hvlp-systems/

    I have the 3 stage one, works very well and customer service is good as well. The system is customizable with different guns, projector sets (needle sets) and so on.
    That looks like a good price. Have you used it? Curious how you like it. I was just looking through their parts and found their gravity-feed guns are around $140. A little cheaper than the TP Tools, I believe (which appear to be out of stock). I was thinking about picking up an additional gun and I think that will work. The fitting looks to be different, but I'm sure it can be changed.

    Edit: Now that I looked a little more closely, they may use the same fittings. Not 100% on that one.
    Last edited by Broncojunkie; 03-20-2021 at 08:02 PM.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  19. #19
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    Works well just follow the directions for paint viscosity closely. I've had mine for several years and use it mostly for primers and single stage paints. High transfer efficiency and very very little over spray.
    Oh, you can take it anywhere and no moisture in the lines either.
    Last edited by KWH; 03-20-2021 at 08:34 PM.

  20. #20
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KWH View Post
    Works well just follow the directions for paint viscosity closely. I've had mine for several years and use it mostly for primers and single stage paints. High transfer efficiency and very very little over spray.
    Oh, you can take it anywhere and no moisture in the lines either.
    I've had my 3-stage TP Tools setup for a few years but haven't used it much. I did paint 2 engine bays and my buddy borrowed it to paint his mini truck. All turned out great. Although they're less forgiving when the temps go up in the summer, the trade-offs work out great for the diy crowd. Like you said...warm, dry air and you never run out of cfm's. I hope to paint at least one car this year, but I have 3 mustangs I plan to paint eventually.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  21. #21
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I have an old TP Tools Turbine unit with the old style gun (non Gravity Feed). Used it for years for primers, sealers, etc. Does a great job with really thick high build primers. Will spray single stage urethane/enamel fairly well. The unit is easily 20 years old at this point, so no idea how it compares to the new ones. The turbine heating up the air was an issue with drying and cure rates during the summer months in TX, but other than that it worked very well and I used it a ton. I am sure the new gravity feed guns would lay down the paint even better with the turbine. I personally still like a compressed air spray gun for best paint finish when possible. My SATA SATAjet 5000-B RP Digital lays down clear coat like nothing I have ever used. As long as I don't screw it up it will pump the clear on the vehicle and it lays out slick as can be. Honestly in most cases it doesn't have to be cut and buffed to look like a show car finish. Of course, you have to have enough compressor to run it.

    The Turbines are definitely a great option for the DIY that doesn't paint cars all day, every day, and either doesn't have the space or need for a 7.5HP 80 gallon 2 stage 31 CFM compressor.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  22. #22
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I have an old TP Tools Turbine unit with the old style gun (non Gravity Feed). Used it for years for primers, sealers, etc. Does a great job with really thick high build primers. Will spray single stage urethane/enamel fairly well. The unit is easily 20 years old at this point, so no idea how it compares to the new ones. The turbine heating up the air was an issue with drying and cure rates during the summer months in TX, but other than that it worked very well and I used it a ton. I am sure the new gravity feed guns would lay down the paint even better with the turbine. I personally still like a compressed air spray gun for best paint finish when possible. My SATA SATAjet 5000-B RP Digital lays down clear coat like nothing I have ever used. As long as I don't screw it up it will pump the clear on the vehicle and it lays out slick as can be. Honestly in most cases it doesn't have to be cut and buffed to look like a show car finish. Of course, you have to have enough compressor to run it.

    The Turbines are definitely a great option for the DIY that doesn't paint cars all day, every day, and either doesn't have the space or need for a 7.5HP 80 gallon 2 stage 31 CFM compressor.
    Trey
    I believe you may have been the one who recommended the TP Tools turbine setup. If so, thanks! It's worked out really well. I do have, in my new garage, an older 60 gal 6.5 HP Charge Air Pro compressor. I figure that should be good enough for our little foxes, provided I choose the right gun. I'll save the high-cfm stuff for the turbine. I plan to run some PEX or similar air line throughout the building with several hook-up stations. I plan to end the piping on the end of the garage where I'll be painting, farthest away from the compressor to keep moisture to a minimum. I'll also probably install a copper tubing manifold with several drain valves.

    The first all-over job I'll be doing, I believe, will be my 79 cobra. I'm using the turbine on it just because I want to see if it does as good of a job as it did on the two engine bays. I used a slow reducer and sprayed in the summer, but later in the evening when it cooled down. We're lucky enough to have some cool evenings even in mid summer, here in WV. I'm in the OH valley. It's quite a bit cooler in the mountains.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  23. #23
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Glad to hear it worked out. The Turbine setups with a better gun technology probably spray pretty well compared to my old spray gun. I have thought about buying a better gun for mine and still might, but after spending $900 for my SATA, it seemed redundant.

    I just installed this air line kit in my garage with my new 7.5 HP 80 gallon compressor. I used the 3/4" because I wanted to make sure I had plenty of air when using my blast cabinet and my plasma cutter. You may be fine with the 1/2 kit if you want to save some $$. You might need a couple of additional fittings depending on how you run your lines, I had to buy a few on Amazon. If you do some price shopping you can get some decent deals on the big kit and the fittings. https://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair-home-garage

    Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  24. #24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Glad to hear it worked out. The Turbine setups with a better gun technology probably spray pretty well compared to my old spray gun. I have thought about buying a better gun for mine and still might, but after spending $900 for my SATA, it seemed redundant.

    I just installed this air line kit in my garage with my new 7.5 HP 80 gallon compressor. I used the 3/4" because I wanted to make sure I had plenty of air when using my blast cabinet and my plasma cutter. You may be fine with the 1/2 kit if you want to save some $$. You might need a couple of additional fittings depending on how you run your lines, I had to buy a few on Amazon. If you do some price shopping you can get some decent deals on the big kit and the fittings. https://www.rapidairproducts.com/rapidair-home-garage

    Good Luck!
    As you've mentioned several times the DYI needs to have a big compressor with the constant volume needed.

    Many a DYI enthusiast will get a good gun and then be disappointed with the results. Sometimes its just the compressor is being maxed out..
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  25. #25
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Elizabethton, TN
    Posts
    215

    Default

    Or air lines being too small, fittings too small.

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