Car rotisserie - Page 3

neald · 02-07-2010, 02:09 PM

Thanks this thread i already have reservations to do this come spring.

In2Fords · 02-08-2010, 04:22 AM

thats awesome. I remember my uncle built a car roller when I was a little kid. He would use it at the junkyards. They were metal and fairly small, they bolted to the wheel mounting studs. Pretty simple, jack up car, take off wheels and bolt on the things and then use the jack to jack up the other side untill it would roll on its own! I never had any pics and it was home made but I think it would be doable and could be fairly cheap, not as cheap as the wood ones though.

gr79 · 02-08-2010, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fred414141

yea,but you still have to buy a huge basting brush..................

I use a corn broom. Two 5 gal buckets of tomato paste if a hardtop.

KAILUAZ · 02-22-2010, 02:00 AM

I made a quick video with our new camera. Cheesy I know, but it shows how easy it is to roll.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSfZakPnqxM

speedfreak · 11-25-2010, 06:08 PM

Great Vid i started my rotissery tonight and am baseing it off yours but modified to have casters as to move it around while on its side! Dave

speedfreak · 11-26-2010, 07:14 PM

If im reading this right the end of the 2x6 on the rear is 14.5" from the outside bolt hole on the rear bumper post?And the front 2x6 is 19.5" from out side holes on the front post?

photobucket

[/QUOTE]

foxmustang84 · 11-26-2010, 07:29 PM

That is just too cool!

speedfreak · 11-26-2010, 09:56 PM

It looks to me now that your 93 has different mounting holes on the front bumper posts. In the middle on top and bottom and sides where as my 81 the holes are in all 4 corners! Am i correct?

'85FourEyed · 02-15-2012, 07:08 PM

Alright, I KNOW this is an old thread, but I just have to say BRAVO! That's so cool. I was doing a Google search to find the least expensive twirler that I could find. I found this thread by accident.

I will be building one of these for sure. I just wanted to say thanks for the idea. I also figured it wouldn't hurt to bring it to the top for others who haven't seen it.

Very cool! Never would've thought of it on my own. This just made my day!

IDMooseMan · 02-15-2012, 07:43 PM

I agree. American ingenuity is alive and doing very well. Even my wife and daughters (20 and 16) thought this was cool. I'm subscribing to keep the info for later use.

wingnut180 · 02-15-2012, 07:50 PM

wow, way too cool!!!!

the members on this site is what makes our hobby so much fun!

way to take an intimidating job for a novice and turn it into a cheap and easy no brainer!!

86foxvert · 02-15-2012, 08:23 PM

I did the exact same thing

I saw your thread and built my own. It cost me $24! I was able to remove all the undercoating with an air driven needle scraper from Harbour Frieght which cost $19!

All in all my car is painted and perfect underneath, Now my neighbor is using the Wood rotisserie!

bgettel · 07-07-2012, 03:33 PM

What would I need to ADD to this for my T-top? Is my shell weak enough to require more bracing before I do something like this?

wraithracing · 07-07-2012, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgettel

What would I need to ADD to this for my T-top? Is my shell weak enough to require more bracing before I do something like this?

I would recommend adding additional bracing to help keep the car square and straight. I have not used one of these setup, but I have one of the Accessible Technology Rotisserie. For any vehicle that was installed on that I used door bars to help support the door openings. I won't say they were always necessary, but since the majority of them were customer cars, I wasn't going to take any chances.

IMHO you have a couple of options, you can make door bars that go from the door hinge areas to the door striker. Mine were metal since I did several Mustangs/Capris and reused them several times. Mine were 2 bars, one went from each hinge to the striker and were welded together at the striker mount. This triangulates the opening and really stiffens it up.

The other option that I usually did in addition to the door bars on T-top and convertibles was a cross brace inside the cockpit area. Many times I would go from the seat belt shoulder mount to the opposite side lower seat belt mount and vice versa from the other side. This makes a large X brace that then I bolted together where they cross or intersect. Obviously this has to be modified a bit for a convertible, but your's is a T-top.

Hope that helps a bit. Feel free to PM me if you need or want more information.

Good Luck!

Trey

mustangxtreme · 07-07-2012, 10:52 PM

Trey, do you have any pics of the extra bracing you use?

79mustang351w · 07-08-2012, 12:39 AM

I actually did add some casters to mine to roll it in and out of the shop. I will post better pics of the caster setup when I get them off the cell phone. Had to show you the bedliner too....its just too awesome looking!!

wraithracing · 07-08-2012, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mustangxtreme

Trey, do you have any pics of the extra bracing you use?

I will see if I can find any pictures of the set up on a Mustang. I do have the door braces and could possibly take a picture of them by themselves too. Just have to dig them out of storage. Let me see what I can find.

Trey

wraithracing · 07-08-2012, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79mustang351w

I actually did add some casters to mine to roll it in and out of the shop. I will post better pics of the caster setup when I get them off the cell phone. Had to show you the bedliner too....its just too awesome looking!!

That looks good! I was a Speedliner dealer for several years when I had my Restoration Shop and I did that exact thing to several of the street cars that I restored/rebuilt over the years. Just make sure to chase the threads on any of the threaded holes that might have gotten bed liner material in them during the spray. Nothing worse than trying to install seat belts or other items and they won't go in due to the bedliner plug.

Trey

79mustang351w · 07-08-2012, 12:01 PM

Yep. I already made sure of the bolt holes having plugs. Really the only bolt holes left in the bottom after I shaved and smoothed everything was the two seat belt holes in the tranny tunnel, but I already thread chased them. I shaved the rear seat area belt holes and mounts. This car wont ever go back to stock!! lol

unt8mdgt · 07-08-2012, 12:20 PM

Ive been thinking about using the bed liner on my coupe, looks really nice.
did you spray it on or roll it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79mustang351w

Yep. I already made sure of the bolt holes having plugs. Really the only bolt holes left in the bottom after I shaved and smoothed everything was the two seat belt holes in the tranny tunnel, but I already thread chased them. I shaved the rear seat area belt holes and mounts. This car wont ever go back to stock!! lol

79mustang351w · 07-08-2012, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unt8mdgt

Ive been thinking about using the bed liner on my coupe, looks really nice.
did you spray it on or roll it?

I sprayed it on...comes in a kit. Its called UPOL Raptor Bedliner and its 4 liters and it comes with the spraygun....by FAR the easiest DIY kit out there....and the best looking DIY kit. It looks very close to my buddies truckbed done with Line X. I am very happy with it. Wish I had better pics of the whole bottom. But the ones I took on my cell phone were before it fully cured and the lighting kinda sucked. I am loading some more pics of the rotisserie now. I only had $60 in the whole thing....casters and all. And those casters are PRICEY at TSC. Thank God I found them for alot cheaper than TSC at another store.

unt8mdgt · 07-08-2012, 12:37 PM

Perfect thanks! Glad to see you starting to make progress on yours again

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79mustang351w

I sprayed it on...comes in a kit. Its called UPOL Raptor Bedliner and its 4 liters and it comes with the spraygun....by FAR the easiest DIY kit out there....and the best looking DIY kit. It looks very close to my buddies truckbed done with Line X. I am very happy with it. Wish I had better pics of the whole bottom. But the ones I took on my cell phone were before it fully cured and the lighting kinda sucked. I am loading some more pics of the rotisserie now. I only had $60 in the whole thing....casters and all. And those casters are PRICEY at TSC. Thank God I found them for alot cheaper than TSC at another store.

79mustang351w · 07-08-2012, 12:56 PM

Thanks buddy. I am trying to make it happen. Money and motivation are hard to come by sometimes along the way. Here are some more pics.

And this cant be stressed enough...I almost had the damn thing flip over onto the race trailer trying to pull it back in the shop. One of the swivel casters broke out and off of the wood and slammed the thing down onto the wooden A-frame. I added some steel plates on both sides of the wooden frame (sandwiching the wooden frame basically) that I welded to the casters mount plate. Then I drilled holes and bolted through those plates and the wooden frame...so that wouldn't happen again as I pulled it over the uneven concrete slabs in the back of my shop. I circled the areas I added these plates.

allgosvo · 07-08-2012, 02:58 PM

It's good to see people actually use their brains. I really like clever ideas.

02-07-2010, 02:09 PM	#51
neald FEP Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: POUGHKEEPSIE, NY Posts: 672	Thanks this thread i already have reservations to do this come spring. __________________ Neal

02-22-2010, 02:00 AM	#54
KAILUAZ FEP Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: St Pete, FL via Kailua, HI Posts: 675	I made a quick video with our new camera. Cheesy I know, but it shows how easy it is to roll. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSfZakPnqxM __________________ 911 NEVER FORGET!! MILStang

02-15-2012, 07:43 PM	#60
IDMooseMan FEP Super Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Nampa ID 83686 Posts: 3,246	I agree. American ingenuity is alive and doing very well. Even my wife and daughters (20 and 16) thought this was cool. I'm subscribing to keep the info for later use. __________________ Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters 1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 non-locking 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster American Legion, NAHC Life Member, NAFC Member, USAF SSgt 1983 - 1992 To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome" Buyer/Seller Experience Link Build Thread

07-07-2012, 10:52 PM	#65
mustangxtreme FEP Power Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Granite Falls, Wa Posts: 1,752	Trey, do you have any pics of the extra bracing you use? __________________ Dave If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense? 1983 Capri T top 5.0 efi aod 1983 Capri RS Turbo 1981 Black Magic 6.6 c6 93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4

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02-08-2010, 04:22 AM	#52
In2Fords FEP Power Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: White City, Oregon Posts: 2,115	thats awesome. I remember my uncle built a car roller when I was a little kid. He would use it at the junkyards. They were metal and fairly small, they bolted to the wheel mounting studs. Pretty simple, jack up car, take off wheels and bolt on the things and then use the jack to jack up the other side untill it would roll on its own! I never had any pics and it was home made but I think it would be doable and could be fairly cheap, not as cheap as the wood ones though.

11-25-2010, 06:08 PM	#55
speedfreak FEP Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bowmanville ONT Canada Posts: 168	Great Vid i started my rotissery tonight and am baseing it off yours but modified to have casters as to move it around while on its side! Dave

11-26-2010, 07:14 PM	#56
speedfreak FEP Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bowmanville ONT Canada Posts: 168	If im reading this right the end of the 2x6 on the rear is 14.5" from the outside bolt hole on the rear bumper post?And the front 2x6 is 19.5" from out side holes on the front post? photobucket [/QUOTE]

11-26-2010, 07:29 PM	#57
foxmustang84 Banned Join Date: May 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 509	That is just too cool!

11-26-2010, 09:56 PM	#58
speedfreak FEP Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bowmanville ONT Canada Posts: 168	It looks to me now that your 93 has different mounting holes on the front bumper posts. In the middle on top and bottom and sides where as my 81 the holes are in all 4 corners! Am i correct?

02-15-2012, 07:08 PM	#59
'85FourEyed New User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Mahwah, NJ Posts: 35	Alright, I KNOW this is an old thread, but I just have to say BRAVO! That's so cool. I was doing a Google search to find the least expensive twirler that I could find. I found this thread by accident. I will be building one of these for sure. I just wanted to say thanks for the idea. I also figured it wouldn't hurt to bring it to the top for others who haven't seen it. Very cool! Never would've thought of it on my own. This just made my day!

02-15-2012, 07:50 PM	#61
wingnut180 FEP User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: central wisconsin Posts: 93	wow, way too cool!!!! the members on this site is what makes our hobby so much fun! way to take an intimidating job for a novice and turn it into a cheap and easy no brainer!!

02-15-2012, 08:23 PM	#62
86foxvert FEP Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: El Paso, Texas Posts: 208	I did the exact same thing I saw your thread and built my own. It cost me $24! I was able to remove all the undercoating with an air driven needle scraper from Harbour Frieght which cost $19! All in all my car is painted and perfect underneath, Now my neighbor is using the Wood rotisserie!

07-07-2012, 03:33 PM	#63
bgettel FEP Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Maryland Posts: 120	What would I need to ADD to this for my T-top? Is my shell weak enough to require more bracing before I do something like this?

07-08-2012, 12:39 AM	#66
79mustang351w FEP Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bucyrus, OH Posts: 197	I actually did add some casters to mine to roll it in and out of the shop. I will post better pics of the caster setup when I get them off the cell phone. Had to show you the bedliner too....its just too awesome looking!!

07-08-2012, 12:01 PM	#69
79mustang351w FEP Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bucyrus, OH Posts: 197	Yep. I already made sure of the bolt holes having plugs. Really the only bolt holes left in the bottom after I shaved and smoothed everything was the two seat belt holes in the tranny tunnel, but I already thread chased them. I shaved the rear seat area belt holes and mounts. This car wont ever go back to stock!! lol

07-08-2012, 12:56 PM	#73
79mustang351w FEP Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bucyrus, OH Posts: 197	Thanks buddy. I am trying to make it happen. Money and motivation are hard to come by sometimes along the way. Here are some more pics. And this cant be stressed enough...I almost had the damn thing flip over onto the race trailer trying to pull it back in the shop. One of the swivel casters broke out and off of the wood and slammed the thing down onto the wooden A-frame. I added some steel plates on both sides of the wooden frame (sandwiching the wooden frame basically) that I welded to the casters mount plate. Then I drilled holes and bolted through those plates and the wooden frame...so that wouldn't happen again as I pulled it over the uneven concrete slabs in the back of my shop. I circled the areas I added these plates.

07-08-2012, 02:58 PM	#74
allgosvo FEP Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: glen burnie,maryland Posts: 329	It's good to see people actually use their brains. I really like clever ideas.