Not that this will help, but I just recently got a BMW X5 in that was splashed over the entire vehicle with a form of acid. I thought at first sight that I would have to strip the entire vehicle.
just for kicks, I tried buffing the hood and amazingly the stains buffed out. The stains were a dark purplish color against a pearl white paint job.
i say this just so you might try the easy way first. Though those stains look bad, there's a chance they're not deep.
Another example of why "My" next paint job will be a "Wrap"!
Mike
Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"
1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually
I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!
www.musclecardeals.com
Just curious, did you ever resolve what caused this? Was it the cover or the paint job?
Im asking because my car is in the body shop getting restoration and I plan to garage it this winter and I wanted to put a good cover on it too. This thread makes me think twice about putting a car cover on a freshly painted car.
Everyone who has looked at the car has a different opinion, but all seem to at least agree it was a paint/prep problem combined with the cover, not the cover itself.
Teaser....
Last edited by Dr. Matt; 03-07-2018 at 03:32 PM.
Wow!
Brad
'79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
'17 Ford Focus ST
'14 Ford Fusion SE Manual
It's not going to subtle....
Sparkly
I tell people all the time, be careful with covers when used outside and there's moisture that can get trapped between the cover and the car, even with the absolute best paint jobs.
Personally, if I have a car outside, I use a super lightweight cover that can quickly dissipate any moisture between the car and cover. Some of the new superweaves that have come out in the past several years are very, very good. They are not cheap, typically a few hundred dollars-but worth every cent. Times have past for the old high-end heavy quilted covers-those California Covers-get rid of them now if using outside, these trap way to much moisture by wicking and take WAY to long to dissipate the moisture before doing damage to the paint. Moisture is your biggest threat when using covers. The more lightweight covers that are super weaves, stop water from getting through, but, more importantly, allow for the dissipation of the moisture quickly when it does get in (and believe me-moisture will get in I don't care what cover you have). Also, don't allow water/snow to just sit on top of the cover.
just my two cents...
Covers do protect up to a point.
One way may be to shrink wrap it like a boat for winter storage.
Had a Covercraft on the car, parked outside during engine rebuild.
While cover protects from prying eyes, UV, it acted like a sponge and dirt magnet.
Got wet, absorbed dirt from the rain, dried out.
Dirt stayed in the fabric and turned the cover into sandpaper, especially on the roof edges above the doors.
Winds moved the fabric around.
Moisture and grit is also blown up from under car and up under the cover.
Now the car is a dd. Cheap plastic tarp covers glass areas, doors, cowl, in bad winter events.
Primarily to minimize water freezing under moldings and on weatherstrips. The exposed paint survives fine.
Unless water gets under the tarp and freezes, it removes cleanly, unlike any woven cover.
Nylon ws covers will come off intact if frozen with a little tugging.
Otherwise, is parked uncovered. Is futile to expect any paint job on anything outside to last forever.
Last edited by gr79; 03-08-2018 at 01:12 PM.
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