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  1. #1

    Default Power Window Motor Replacement - Advice needed

    Hello all

    My 83 GT has power windows. They work, not super slow moving up and down, but somewhat slow.

    Would you change these? Or would you wait till they stop working? Are they slow because they are 40 years old? I am thinking yes?

    Also, are these hard to change out? As far as replacements go. Are the NPD, or LMR units good. It looks like they are made by Daniel Carpenter.

    Thank you

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    My 99 Mustang's D-side P-window was getting really slow so I replaced it right away.
    I would think those kits from LMR or no worse or better than the ones I got from RockAuto for my 99 Mustang. Not to hard to replace, just a lot of wiggling to get them in and out.

    Scotty
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  3. #3

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    It's possible that the grease on the plastic window motor gears is getting old and gummed up. The motors themselves could be fine.

    Worth a shot to pull a motor and examine the plastic gears and see how the grease is.

    Also the regulator assembly in the door itself could need to be lubed.
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by webestang View Post
    My 99 Mustang's D-side P-window was getting really slow so I replaced it right away.
    I would think those kits from LMR or no worse or better than the ones I got from RockAuto for my 99 Mustang. Not to hard to replace, just a lot of wiggling to get them in and out.
    Did you notice a difference after you changed the motor, in window speed.

    Thanks

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    I changed the entire unit as it came with the motor attached to the window track and boy did it make a big difference. Works like it's new.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83GTTops View Post
    Hello all

    My 83 GT has power windows. They work, not super slow moving up and down, but somewhat slow.

    Would you change these? Or would you wait till they stop working? Are they slow because they are 40 years old? I am thinking yes?

    Also, are these hard to change out? As far as replacements go. Are the NPD, or LMR units good. It looks like they are made by Daniel Carpenter.

    Thank you
    Many times, you can fix them by getting the 3 new plastic bushings in the "planetary"/worm gear setup. The factory bushings break up and jam up the whole works. Most times, the stock motors are still plenty strong.

    See pic below, the small plastic bag has the 3 new plastic bushings. Take motor out and remove the black plastic covering on gear train. Most likely you will have a grease and plastic bit mess, with the stock plastic bushings ready to disintegrate fully (if it gets that far, window will stop working at all).

    Take out the center metal piece (all the way on right in pic), and clean everything out. Try to keep plastic bits away from worm shaft connected to motor. Now put 3 new bushings with metal center gear back in. Use a decent amount of grease on the bushings and back side of metal gear. It can be a bit of a PIA sometimes to get all that back into larger white plastic worm gear setup. Once that is done, drop it back in the motor housing and put black cover back on. Hook up motor to harness and try it out in both directions, before putting motor back in car.

    Last edited by OX1; 03-16-2023 at 01:20 PM.
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  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    And as stated above make sure you take the time to clean ALL the channels, replace the guide bushings and if any window channel rubber is stiff or getting that way change it while you have the door stripped down. It is so much easier to do it all at once and the costs of the various pieces are minimal. Lube everything up properly and it should last another 40-60 years.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
    Many times, you can fix them by getting the 3 new plastic bushings in the "planetary"/worm gear setup. The factory bushings break up and jam up the whole works. Most times, the stock motors are still plenty strong.

    See pic below, the small plastic bag has the 3 new plastic bushings. Take motor out and remove the black plastic covering on gear train. Most likely you will have a grease and plastic bit mess, with the stock plastic bushings ready to disintegrate fully (if it gets that far, window will stop working at all).

    Take out the center metal piece (all the way on right in pic), and clean everything out. Try to keep plastic bits away from worm shaft connected to motor. Now put 3 new bushings with metal center gear back in. Use a decent amount of grease on the bushings and back side of metal gear. It can be a bit of a PIA sometimes to get all that back into larger white plastic worm gear setup. Once that is done, drop it back in the motor housing and put black cover back on. Hook up motor to harness and try it out in both directions, before putting motor back in car.

    Well said. Thank you

  9. #9
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    I have rebuilt probably 10 of these. All needed the torque pins and 1 needed a new gear. Greasing the rails and such is always a good idea, just don't use a smelly wheel bearing grease. Lastly, some motors are slow, maybe with age or by design. Ford redesigned the motors in 1984. I have also seen larger round motors on some of the older units.

    Try increasing the engine rpm's to get more voltage to the motor. These may not benefit much from greasing to make them faster.
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    I have rebuilt probably 10 of these. All needed the torque pins and 1 needed a new gear. Greasing the rails and such is always a good idea, just don't use a smelly wheel bearing grease. Lastly, some motors are slow, maybe with age or by design. Ford redesigned the motors in 1984. I have also seen larger round motors on some of the older units.

    Try increasing the engine rpm's to get more voltage to the motor. These may not benefit much from greasing to make them faster.
    Thanks Kevin

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    I wouldn’t say it’s an easy process to change motors out on the early year cars but the concept is easy. Problem is getting the motor out and the new one in reaching in through the door. So for your sake I hope you have small long arms lol. I did both of mine and my arms were scratched to **** and I even had to get my 15 year old daughter to reach in and position motor so I could get screws back in lol. Not a project I want to attempt again for a long time. Lol If you need more info I have a thread I made back when I changed mine out. Good luck!

    Brad
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  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Here is my thread. Some helpful tips from Trey
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...l-how-the-heck
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  13. #13
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Kevlar ppe sleeves

    -"my arms were scratched to **** ".

    These sleeves solve that.
    Standard workplace PPE worn when working around cut and thermal hazards. Not Nomex but they say 900F.
    Washable snug elastic fit like a sock especially when new. Better fit than long sleeves, much less tendency to snag something.
    Got mine free from work. Yellow wrist to elbow style match up fine with work gloves. Usually help keeping arms clean.
    Over time and daily shift work, they stay up but ends stretch wider.
    Can be dampened for use in summer heat.
    Good for yard work too.

    https://www.bing.com/search?q=kevlar...d1e456215aa6c4

  14. #14

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    I would say the job is not difficult but it is a PITA to get the motor in position when you are trying to start the bolts into the threads. Your one arm is at its limit in a "contortionist sense" getting the motor into the approximate position, while using your other arm to get one of the bolts started.

    I would suggest getting the first bolt (any of them) started but leave it loose (only a few turns to hold it from falling out) and take a break for a minute. Let arm rest and then you can use your finger tips to rotate the motor a tad either way to get the other bolts started.
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  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scenarioL113 View Post
    I would say the job is not difficult but it is a PITA to get the motor in position when you are trying to start the bolts into the threads. Your one arm is at its limit in a "contortionist sense" getting the motor into the approximate position, while using your other arm to get one of the bolts started.

    I would suggest getting the first bolt (any of them) started but leave it loose (only a few turns to hold it from falling out) and take a break for a minute. Let arm rest and then you can use your finger tips to rotate the motor a tad either way to get the other bolts started.
    I'm not a little guy so I used a piece of safety wire, looped it through the top motor bolt hole and then pulled the motor into place. Started one of the other two bolts and slipped the wire out and started the other two. Didn't even scratch a knuckle.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
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