More than "just a six"

[plstktnkr2]

Today's post is more of a "Parts Needed" installment. If you are running SHORTY HEADERS, the length of the HEGO (O2) harnesses will be fine. for those of us running LONGTUBE HEADERS, you need to get extension harnesses like BBK's part #1676., I also needed to update the battery tray to use the larger battery to keep up with power needs, (my stock battery was not of the rated capacity to do so) and I ordered a tray, hardware and holddown. I have a kit to mod the battery cables from Fastenal but I may opt to just buy new cables.

For those of you still reading I hope my info is of use.
Happy 'stangin'
Rick

[IDMooseMan]

Loving every update you make, my friend. Keep 'em coming.

[plstktnkr2]

The next hurdle we have is the driver's side "Trunk Line" that carries the feeds and grounds for all the lighting, horn and windshield washer. It resides in the channel at the bottom of the "Apron" and in this channel is where the new battery tray resides. photos coming soon...

[Funky Cricket]

Thanks for the updates. Can't wait for more pics.

[plstktnkr2]

OK kids heres how to move a battery from one side to the other (minus the associated wires , we will get to that. first up WHAT'S IN THE WAY?
As some of you early Fox owners know ( the ones with the battery on the right side of the car) This swap requires the battery to be moved to the left side of the car. It's not as bad as it would seem. the later model Battery tray is designed for a larger battery on the driver's side of the car. this is EASY!
This is what is there, yours are probably not red but you get the idea:




here is what is there to mount the new tray after the wire harness has been moved:



the bottom bolt gets a blind nut as shown here:



And two more here: (NOTE: they are not included in the CJ Pony kit):



Feed wires behind post that goes into channel (yet out of channel) and place battery tray:



and then after all three bolts are in, install battery :





and "Voila" you have moved your battery!
Tune in next time for Battery cable shortening 101

Happy swapping
Rick

[IDMooseMan]

That was quick.

[plstktnkr2]

The next step is locating the "Integrated Relay module" . The most convenient place is the front of the right hand apron at the front next to the core support.

First you need a self-drilling screw (denoted by the tri-angle on the head) and make two holes a half of an inch apart:



This is why:



You make the 2 holes grab the metal that is left and create a longer "slot" :



Then another hole 4 inches lower then the slot:



and the finished install:



Happy Swapping!

[Jax Rhapsody]

Happy this has turned out, I like non-v8 swaps. I can imagine the exotic sounds that'll come from it. After it's finished, slap a turbo or two on it for good measure.

[plstktnkr2]

Finally, after a house move, g/f's surgery and lighting a fire under a speedshop, I have new parts and will be moving on shortly. I have got to be done for 'stangs across America, pictures of new parts, pictures to follow...

[plstktnkr2]

Ok, so much for "progress". Got my part made, and after giving them a 3D prototype to copy into a working part the speed shop gave me this



this points the mass air meter at the serpentine belt and not into the open space for the air meter/air filter I have chosen. I will remake the part to the proper configuration.

The manifold intake pipe has been made to fit a standard 3 inch silicone hose:



This will interface with with the 3 inch silicone pipe coupler to the intercooler.
est

Now I am going to bring in a topic called "HOOD CLEARANCE" LOL I feel in my quest for eliminating "squish points" that slow down airflow, that I may need to re think my hood clearance, and trim the blower hose to fit under my hood.




Once I trim my hose and blower hat, I will see how much clearance I will gain. Stay tuned

[fairmont city]

I'm impressed

[plstktnkr2]

well the hose is too high even after hose trim, so I will remake blower hat with a tight 90* tube on it to gain clearance I will keep you posted . I apoligize for my delay. It has been a long cold winter...
Rick

[IDMooseMan]

No need to apologize. As far as I can tell, you're not behind on anything. LOL

[plstktnkr2]

Thankx Moose , but I need this done by All Ford Carlisle first week of June time and money crunch still
Rick

[IDMooseMan]

Okay...then, "GET BACK TO WORK!" How's that for motivation?

[plstktnkr2]

OK folks , UPDATE!!!!
Finally! I have created a plate/ 90* elbow part that will drop the install height of the blower hat AND put most of the air into the tubes for the intercooler. Since I also have clearance issues with the room for the cooler I have procure a new rad support with rad mounts to move the radiator 3 inches to the right (passenger side) so I will not need to "hack" any metal work. pics as soon as the pieces are done. I also am working on finishing the mass air meter to throttle body tube and hose assy. Stay tuned
Rick

[Funky Cricket]

Pics of the 90* ? YOU CAN DO IT!!!!

[plstktnkr2]

As soon as its done I will post pics!

[1983 GL V6 MUSTANG]

Im looking forward to see how this turns out, and how you modified the intake to fit, with the added volume and cooler.

[plstktnkr2]

ok parts are in here is the first installment:

[plstktnkr2]

here is a comparison between blower hats for clearence:This



Versus this:

[plstktnkr2]

Put the cooler in the shop today to get the tight 90* elbows welded on. Pics as soon as I get it done.
Rick

[plstktnkr2]

<sigh> still waiting on the cooler to be welded

[plstktnkr2]

ok GREAT NEWS !!!
Cooler is DONE !!!




AND THE FILTER/MASS AIR METER:




iT'S TIME TO HAVE SOME FUN !

[Funky Cricket]

woohoo! keep the awesome pics coming!