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  1. #501

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    Hey brock, just catching up on your thread. I have one thing to add, an ohm meter does check if current can flow, and current will flow through a single strand of wire while the other 10 may be broken. What happens is it will ohm ok but the circuit will not work because it cannot flow the current needed. I used to have an old halogen headlight I used to check circuits in the shop, the bulb pulls 10-15 amps so it will better check the integrity of the wire. Not used all the time, but when chasing gremlins it can save some hair pulling. It's just another tool in the toolbox. Enjoy the weather! I hope to get my engine compartment primed this weekend... maybe even painted

  2. #502
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Very nice work, Brock
    Thanks Mike. I appreciate your help with this matter.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  3. #503
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Hey brock, just catching up on your thread. I have one thing to add, an ohm meter does check if current can flow, and current will flow through a single strand of wire while the other 10 may be broken. What happens is it will ohm ok but the circuit will not work because it cannot flow the current needed. I used to have an old halogen headlight I used to check circuits in the shop, the bulb pulls 10-15 amps so it will better check the integrity of the wire. Not used all the time, but when chasing gremlins it can save some hair pulling. It's just another tool in the toolbox. Enjoy the weather! I hope to get my engine compartment primed this weekend... maybe even painted
    I'm not overly concerned with the ohm vs amp draw test as I'm pretty certain that the integrity of the wiring is fine. I did the ohm trace just to be certain that I had all of the replaced wiring pinned in the correct slots. I will run a load test on them if I feel something is a bit amiss.

    I have been trying to enjoy the weather and get some of this done on the car. Today and tomorrow are supposed to be beautiful, 70 - 75f, then it goes downhill for the weekend. They are talking measurable snowfall Friday. Guess it is still February....
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  4. #504
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Worked on getting the rear portion of the fuel system done. Took the EFI tank and cleaned it up as it was kinda crusty in a few spots. Sprayed it with rust reformer and a quick topcoat of black.

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    Installed a new sending unit and pump filter into the tank. I also replaced the filler neck, vapor valve seal and hoses as the old ones were showing their age.

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    Had to get a little creative with the wiring as I didn't get the car side of the harness for the fuel tank. I removed the old sending unit wires from the factory grommet and used a drill to enlarge the holes in order to add the extra pump wiring into it. It was still a trick to get all of the wiring to go through the 90 degree turn but in the end I thought it came out pretty good and at least maintains a still fairly stock appearance. Once I got the wires pulled, I finished the termination of the wiring to the fuel pump relay/inertia switch circuit. This portion should be ready to go.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  5. #505
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Nicely done!! Looks great!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  6. #506

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    Gooder than new Good work there Brock.

  7. #507
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    We were both playing with mid 80's EFI fuel tanks, pumps, and gauge sending units on the same day.

    Hope yours is going OK. My adventure was just to retrieve a broken fuel sending unit float and freshen the pump with a walbro 155.

  8. #508
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Nicely done!! Looks great!


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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Gooder than new Good work there Brock.
    Thanks guys. Slow and steady I guess. I should have done myself a favor yesterday and not touched the car. Literally everything I touched was a miserable fail and I have just created more work and cost for myself.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  9. #509
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Nicely done!! Looks great!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    We were both playing with mid 80's EFI fuel tanks, pumps, and gauge sending units on the same day.

    Hope yours is going OK. My adventure was just to retrieve a broken fuel sending unit float and freshen the pump with a walbro 155.
    Mine went fairly good, just having issues with fuel filter and line placement. I need to get a move on if I have any hope of making the first Coffee Cruise of the season out at Hyvee on 156th & Maple. The official start is May 6th and I like going as it is usually a good time.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  10. #510
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Crunch time! At this point, if everything goes as expected, I have to have this car running and driving under its own power by late April. We are looking at moving into a new house and the closing date is April 20th. Can't make any excuses now and have to move forward quickly with this in order to meet the deadline. Challenge accepted!

    Not wanting to shortcut and do a bunch of scab jobs, I'm still going to continue with the plan and just make more time available to get it done.

    One piece of the puzzle is the floor. I prefer to have some sort of barrier to help relieve some of the heat infiltration into the vehicle. While there are pros and cons to the available options and everyone has opinions on the different options, I'm basing mine on some basic hands on testing observations. With this being said, I'm not going for the ultimate sound deadening option but for the bare bones heat rejection. One could argue all day long about Dynamat, Hush Mat, Lizard Skin, Peel and Seal, etc. but I have a different plan and reasoning for what I'm doing.

    With the fact the floor, especially the passenger side, will need replacing in the future due to rust I went the cheap route to help block/reject the heat from the firewall and floors. While not my first choice, it is the most economically viable option at this time. For the firewall and front floors, I went with a product that is basically an aluminum faced roof repair by the name of Hydraguard Gutter Tape.

    Pros:
    It is thin so it doesn't add much weight, it is cheap and it does a decent job of blocking/rejecting heat as per test.

    Cons:
    Because it is thin, it does not deaden sound much, it is not as efficient for heat blocking/rejection as other products due to design and unknown durability, It is a thicker aluminum covering so it does not conform to curves and bends as well as the specialty products.

    Ran a feasibility test on this before installation out of curiosity. Took a piece of sheetmetal and covered 1/2 with this product and left the other side bare to simulate a bare floor. Using a heat lamp underneath it, I heated the metal to 200 f and checked the temps with a large contact temperature probe. Bare metal side was 200 f and the covered side was 160 f = a reduction of 40 f. While ultimately the concept is wrong here, as is this product or any other for that matter that uses aluminum for a heat barrier on the interior of a vehicle, it is a reduction of transferred heat. Cheap SUCCESS!

    Got the passenger side laid out, now just need to cover some of the patchwork seams and complete the drivers side.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #511
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Coming along nicely. And I'd bet this new house an awesome garage and or barn for the ole girl!

  12. #512
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    Coming along nicely. And I'd bet this new house an awesome garage and or barn for the ole girl!
    Thanks! I should be way ahead of this but things changed so much over the winter that I'm way behind.

    The new house will be nice, if it happens as planned and everything goes through without any hiccups. The garage is a bit bigger both in width and height and the biggest bonus is that there is no stupid support pole in the middle of it.

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    My days of planning around that pole will be done!

    The house is nicer than our current one, it is a lot newer as it was built in 1996 and it's in a fairly quiet neighborhood. Downside is, the layout of the new house makes it feel a bit smaller. Can't win them all.....
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-09-2017 at 12:03 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #513
    FEP Power Member bluesfannoz's Avatar
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    Awesome work Brock! Enjoying following your project. Looking forward to seeing the car in person in the near future! Fingers crossed you're able to get all you want done before the move!
    Steve
    "Taillights in Your Face Jack? You've just been Dominated!"
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  14. #514
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluesfannoz View Post
    Awesome work Brock! Enjoying following your project. Looking forward to seeing the car in person in the near future! Fingers crossed you're able to get all you want done before the move!
    Thanks Steve! I'm hoping to have it up and running by then also and can't wait to meet up this year.

    Update: Got the rest of the firewall and front floor covered last night and started installing the heater box.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  15. #515
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Double post.......
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #516
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Woohoo! Congrats on new house and congrats on all the progress!! Looking very good so far!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  17. #517
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Got the mechanical fuel pump off of the car. Not sure if it is factory or not as it has Carter High Flow stamped into it. Looking at the fuel lines that were still attached to the pump, it was a wonder they never developed leaks as they were pretty worn down from rubbing in spots and dry as all get out. I had a small catastrophe with the EFI lines I got to put into place of the carb lines. Seems they were stepped on or pinched during the wait, so I had to get creative. I'm not a fan of splicing fuel lines, but I think with the way I have done it using double locking connectors, I should be fine. I cut the supply line before it turned into the transmission tunnel and spliced the EFI portion in. I believe I can utilize the carb return line as it sits, even though the placement is different than the EFI set. Long term plans will be to replace the factory hard lines with a set that is 3/8" down the road as finding anything 5/16" has proven to be a royal PITA. Installed the fuel filter bracket and new fuel filter in where I believe the later models did from the factory and also replaced all of the o-rings in the factory EFI connectors and installed new holding clips so I should be good. The back side of the fuel system should be done now so once I figure out how to get the front lines run and where install the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel system will be done.

    Changed the speedo cable and found the reason that the speedo never worked in the car. The speed sensor was bent in a 45 degree angle which broke the shaft that connects the gear to the cable. I will have to get a speed sensor coming and it should work afterwards. Using LMR's speedo gear calculator, the yellow gear (which mine has) should be the proper gear to use with my tranny and rear gear combo.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  18. #518

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    Wow Brock, Mr Busy Beaver!

    All you ever needed was the proper motivation and you rip right through stuff, huh? Lol.

    Real good progress there buddy.

  19. #519

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    Bummer on the lines. I'm picking away at mine too. Gonna drive it this spring for sure

  20. #520
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Wow Brock, Mr Busy Beaver!

    All you ever needed was the proper motivation and you rip right through stuff, huh? Lol.

    Real good progress there buddy.
    Thanks Dave. Now if I could have some nice weather to where I could open the garage door, I would fly through this stuff. I have a hard time working with the door closed for some reason. My next project will be done during the summer months as I just don't think I'm a winter project kinda guy.

    This kinda reminds me of being back in school again. Goof off until the last minute and then studying and acing the finals. I think I focus better when under pressure. Mom always hated it, but it worked for me and I carried excellent grades throughout school using that method. LOL!
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-14-2017 at 06:53 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  21. #521
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    I'm struggling with the fuel system in the engine bay and how it should be run. It might be the fact that I can be anal about things, but I have not found a solution yet that makes me feel all happy and good about the final product with the current setup.

    The fuel lines pop out of the D/S fender down by the shorty header collector. This is where I feel a bit uncomfortable as there is only about an inch, maybe an inch and a half, between anywhere the fuel hose bends to the header collector. While the carb setup ran the same exact way, there is now a considerable fuel pressure difference contained in the hose. Carb equals vacuum on the supply line, EFI will be 43# as preferred by the EFI manufacturer and that is what sketches me out a bit. While using fuel injection rated hose, I'm not sure of the lines growth rate once subjected to the pressure. It might be negligible to none but it is a thought in the back of my mind, especially pumping flammable fluids that close to a heat source.

    The other issue is the routing of the hoses. I'm not sure if it would be best to route the supply back up across the firewall and into the TB or if I should run it the route of the carbed setup. For all intensive purposes, routing the way of the carb lines would be the easiest, but I'm not positive it will be the best. There is not a lot of room running around the distributor for a set of 2 hoses and I'm concerned about abrasion issues. The return line to the pressure regulator will probably run this direction as I feel about the best location for the regulator, with this line setup, will be the D/S strut tower. The 1/4" return line of the regulator will be a short run back to the factory lines.

    Something so small has been a major hold up but I'm really not wanting to short cut here and the fact I have never done this before has proven to be an issue. I'm probably over analyzing this and making it more complex than it needs to be but I hate taking chances with certain things. If I were to do it the way I feel is best, I would have a custom hardline set made that ended up about mid firewall that I could connect the TB to and minimize the run of hose. That's not an option at this point in time though so I really need to make a decision and move forward on to other areas.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-14-2017 at 08:44 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  22. #522

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    Dude why would you even think of using rubber for fuel lines? Even with a carb I always use steel, its not expensive and not real technical, somethings on our cars demand the best we CAN'T afford. Just sayin, then you know its safe, durable and not issues with the pressure especially when you're throwing fuel injection pressures of 65 lbs. plus at it.

  23. #523
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT 350 View Post
    Dude why would you even think of using rubber for fuel lines? Even with a carb I always use steel, its not expensive and not real technical, somethings on our cars demand the best we CAN'T afford. Just sayin, then you know its safe, durable and not issues with the pressure especially when you're throwing fuel injection pressures of 65 lbs. plus at it.
    Not sure if I follow you completely on this. The main supply and return lines are factory steel lines, it's just once the main steel lines end inside the drivers side engine compartment I'm not sure what route to take. I can't imagine that everyone that does an aftermarket EFI conversion does anything but EFI rated hose past the factory hard line connection. I do not have a good resource to look at to see how Ford ran their EFI lines in both the CFI and SEFI cars either, as that may answer a lot of the questions I have.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #524
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Don't sweat it buddy. You're overthinking this. The 43 psi sounds high, but your kitchen faucet puts out more pressure. I'd come off the ds and run it like the factory did. Granted, the factory used a steel line from the carb to the pump, but you can get away with rubber and put your focus into making it look pretty.

  25. #525
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    I'll add, part of that fuel line connection to the engine has to be rubber anyway, due to engine vibration.

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