took a couple better pics today
The door sticker is pretty interesting. Very late 84 with 89 DS0. Ford Motor Company Used it for something.
Kendal
I'll try to decode the door tag in next few days. I see the buck tag is missing/broken off.
Yes it is but in that last engine pic I see just the corner from the original buck tag remains. If you look immediately to the right of the hood latch you will spot a Phillips head screw, and beneath it all that remains of the original buck tag.
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FEP Registries: Black Magic & Crimson Cat / Cobra / Dominator / G.T.350 / LTD LX/Police & Marquis LTS / M81 / Pace Car / Predator / Saleen / Turbo GT & Turbo RS / Twister II
Wanted (Dead or Alive): VINs, door tags, buck tags, build sheets, window stickers, owner cards, transmission tags, axle tags
1985 Mustang GT Mild 331 4bbl 5 spd, 1985 SEFI LTD LX AOD.
Cardomain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/565542
Mid Size LTD LX Facebook page! http://www.facebook.com/groups/233213650060739/
Very nice looking project. I am looking forward to following its progress@!
VIN
1FA = Ford vehicle manufactured in USA
B = active belts
P = passenger car
28 = Mustang 3-dr hatchback
T = EFI turbocharged 2.3L engine (SVO)
9 = VIN check digit
E = 1984 model year
F = Dearborn Assembly (DAP)
222268 = 122,268th 1984 Mustang scheduled for production at DAP
Door Tag
F1574 = 1574 lbs front accessory reserve load
R1200 = 1200 lbs rear accessory reserve load
Exterior Paint Colors - 1E = Silver Metallic
DSO - 89 = Transportation Services district sales office (internal Ford useage)
Body - 61B = Mustang 3-dr hatchback
Int Trim - LA = SVO cloth Articulated Sport seating (L), Charcoal/Grey interior (A)
R - 8 = AM/FM stereo radio w/ auto-reverse cassette
S - C = sunroof
Ax - R = 3.45:1 axle ratio, Traction-Lok differential
Tr - 2 = T-5 transmission
JJ = front springs
MM = rear springs
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FEP Registries: Black Magic & Crimson Cat / Cobra / Dominator / G.T.350 / LTD LX/Police & Marquis LTS / M81 / Pace Car / Predator / Saleen / Turbo GT & Turbo RS / Twister II
Wanted (Dead or Alive): VINs, door tags, buck tags, build sheets, window stickers, owner cards, transmission tags, axle tags
I have a problem with this car that I need some input on. Fuel pressure drops off under boost. I cant figure this out. I did the single intank 255 pump. It started when I first got the car I knew I was having fuel pressure issues. Here is the story.
I got the car with the stock 2 pump fuel system. I tested pressure and under boost I was having fuel pressure dropping off problems. I bought a 255 walbro off a friend and it still was having a problem so I put an adjustable regulator in it and the same thing. So I thought my friend sold me a bad pump( it was used) so I bought a new high flow 255lph. Still the same result. I put a stock 5.0 regulator in it for kicks and giggles and the same result. So today I put the stock SVO one back in and it seems even worse. (the one that has the screw on top).
I Also did the ground mod when I changed out the pump. I have an electric fuel pressure guage in the car and it will start to increase in FP like 7-10 lbs.(up to like 45) then it drops below where it is stock (like 35 with vacuum connected). I even went as far as to test voltage to he pump while driving just to rule that out
I have no idea what to do next so any thoughts would be helpful
I didn't see if you changed the filter. If not, I'd start there.
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1984 Capri Turbo RS - Alive after 7 years! Build Thread
2018 Mustang GT - daily driver
This confuses me - at first I thought you were talking about the FUEL PULSE DAMPENER (that has a screw) the REGULATOR doesn't !
IF you have a screw and no PORT for hose - that isn't for a Turbo motor.
IF you can describe what you are using (photo's eliminate guesses) I'm sure this can be fixed fast.
Mark
P.S. I'm sure you have done a filter change - no one would use an old filter after changing to a new pump! EVERYONE would benefit from a filter change yearly with the o2 gas we are getting sold today !!
Hey Mark how do you adjust that thing properly anyway? I think it might be the cause of a hard-start when cold on my 84. It'll crank a bunch and not start, or start and die immediately. But if I prime it a bunch to build pressure it'll fire right up and idle awesomely.
Fuel system is the first thing I sorted when I bought the car, so it has a new in tank pump, I removed the resistive wire and made a proper ground, the in line pump is a new Walbro 255lph, new fuel filter, blew out all the lines to be sure. The cold start doesn't bug me much since I've sorted out all the cars other issues, and this isn't an issue really if I just prime it like 8 times before I go to fire it in the morning. Runs & drives like a dream besides the cold start.
84 SVO - Air filter, FMIC, walbro pump, straight piped, chipped/tuned LB3, 15 psi - 202whp 238ftlbs
92 Aristo - ARC Intake, GReddy FMIC, catback, Mine's ECU, 16 psi - 350whp 320ftlbs
It "starts every time"... the second time.
84 SVO - Air filter, FMIC, walbro pump, straight piped, chipped/tuned LB3, 15 psi - 202whp 238ftlbs
92 Aristo - ARC Intake, GReddy FMIC, catback, Mine's ECU, 16 psi - 350whp 320ftlbs
NOTE: THIS IS A DIFFERENT CAR (if following from above)
There is not "running" benefit in messing with the DAMPENER. (but if it has been run out to the limits (either way) that could be a problem)
The "prime" problem sounds like a bad "check ball" in the intank that allows the car to loose pressure to fast. (VERY COMMON) Basically it should hold for AT LEAST A COUPLE OF HOURS - but when bad losses prime.
I always live with this - by just KOKO, KOKO, KOKO ......then crank (like you are doing)
Mark
Yeah the inline is a walbro but the intank is just a parts store cheapie. A Carter I think.
Thanks anyway.
Back to the regularly scheduled thread...
84 SVO - Air filter, FMIC, walbro pump, straight piped, chipped/tuned LB3, 15 psi - 202whp 238ftlbs
92 Aristo - ARC Intake, GReddy FMIC, catback, Mine's ECU, 16 psi - 350whp 320ftlbs
filter was changed. here is a pic
vacuum line goes over the adjustment screw? it has a hole thru it
That adjustable regulator does look odd. I doubt that it could get a good boost signal with such a small hole.Most vac ports on adjustable regulators have 1/8" to 3/16" opening.
86 SVO Boport stage 3 head,Turbonetics T-66,96lb/hr injectors,lots of BOOST!
I dont know where it came from, but had my fingers crossed. It is the 3rd one I have tried. Will a BBK adjustable one work? I have heard mixed info on it. Just not sure if it will work as a boost referenced one?
I stay away for any of the aftermarket controller ! I have used them buy they don't last and aren't reliable IMO.
ANYTIME I'm "getting an SVO running' - I try and use stock stuff and get it running right, baseline it (as to IF it is up to any mods) and go from there!
Mark
P.S. I just realize this IS the modded car and that you are likely to be racing and increasing all kinds of stuff !! SO an adjustable would be ok for you - because you are likely used to R&R ing parts at the track or when they are needed!
Mine says BOSCH on it so I have no idea if it's stock or what. Seems to run fine though. Not sure if it helps or not. Good Luck.
Liberty once lost is lost forever.
John Adams
July 7, 1775
I was digging through all my stuff today and cleaning out the garage and dound a spare fuel rail with 39# brown tops and the fpr along with some other four eye parts that will be for sale here soon
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