Debugging my wiring issues and cleaning the instrument cluster circuit

[Stormin' Norman]

JACook has a nice description of how he cleans his cluster circuit flex mylar here at Post 12:

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...rinted+circuit

I also found a detailed diagnostic with all kinds of pictures on a BMW owner's blog here:

http://928intl.com/tips/

He describes the Cluster issues that he had in Part 1:

http://928intl.com/tips/Pod%20Remova...Repair%20I.htm

And his nicely detailed steps in Part II:

http://928intl.com/tips/Instrument%2...epair%20II.htm

NPD have new Flex PCBs and the other bits involved in these clusters:

https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalo...er-5675-1.html


My issues are solvable.

I have a parasitic load that drains my new battery in a few hours. So far it only heats up the yellow wire that distributes to the ignition switch OR the Brown/Orange wire that handles the buzzers and other circuits,

My rear hatch wiper/works, but my front interval wiper/washer doesn't (I know they worked before I started this second resto, so I suspect that I just need to connect the ground at the underdash interval governor box.

And all of my dome and map lights and vanity mirror visor lights don't work, but I think that's a connector.

We're getting a weird fall, so some days are drizzly and above 45F, others are near freezing, but sunny.

Firstly, I have replaced the ignition switch and starter relay, I had to buy a new Starter since the C4 starter doesn't work on my SROD. And I did start it and tune it, before these evasive electrical mysteries popped up. I have a voltmeter inside the car and the alternator pumps out 14 volts. New battery too (Made for our cold climate)

But my ammeter isn't working (and it did), my turn signal cluster lights aren't cooperating (and they did), but they work with the Hazard switch on) headlights work fine, radio, heater/AC fan all good.

And I can't really ask for help, BECAUSE, The underdash circuit is from a 1981 Capri, the Power Windows and door locks are from a 1989 Crown Vic (and they all worked before this latest resto.)

But I thought I'd take a bit of time to describe my diagnostic processes:

I have a good multimeter, an old school continuity test light (since I can't use the battery) with its own battery powered (AA battery) light, another light probe that needs a 12V power source to tell me if the circuit is continuous or not grounded or badly grounded.

The next couple days will be sunny and warmer, after tomorrow, and since these testers are battery powered they wouldn't last long in freezing temps.

But I took the instrument cluster out, to clean up the contacts and test my gauges and instrument lights. The BMW tips (links above) go through the guy's solutions one gauge or issue at a time, so I'll do all my checking as he did.

My console is also from the same 1981 Capri, and all of its display works fine (Clock, fuel level, lighting circuit, etc. The Oil, Fuel and Temp gauges and Tach all work fine. Just the Ammeter isn't working.

Since mine is a 1979 Fairmont, the EVTM says I have a connector C251 somewhere behind the Instrument cluster (only a 2-wire connector), but I think that went with replacing it with the 1981 Capri harness.

Its hard to be patient, when I need to use the car to haul out the Donor Scrap, clean up the yard for winter shovelling and snow blowing, and get materials for my house reno projects for winter projects, but I think I can do it over the next 5 or 6 days. I keep you posted on my progress.

Here's the test tools I have:

Multimeter:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/au...0052p.html#srp

12 VDC Test probe:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/te...1061p.html#srp

Continuity Test Light: Old school - hard to find.
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...er/A-p4211094e

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/te...1061p.html#srp
I found some excellent videos on using these testing tools on YouTube that are worth posting here:

My favorites are by Eric The Car Guy ETCG, but ChrisFix is good too:

His Parasitic drain procedures
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs

His Fairmont Project car - Must See!:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...U14Vt7JJ_QSZvs

ChrisFix - Finding shorts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5FJDgcdii8

Fusible Link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SpsSRGfDQI

In the meanwhile, I'm working on insulation my upper floor and adding 3 bedrooms and a bathroom.

I'll post my progress over the next few days.

EVTMs:
I also have both a 1981 Fairmont/Zephyr and a 1981 Mustang/Capri EVTM on the way. Should be here by Monday. Should have got those a long time ago.

[xctasy]

What a charismatic offertory, my man. The Toyota Curse!


Had the very same fault on three T0yot@'s...a 1982 T130 (RT132), an 1993 T180 Coronary, and, just recently, the AE92 Corollary.


Here was my three step non eccelesiastical "laypersons'" non sacramentaly approved exorcism



https://fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=34&t=75731

I've consulted the ETCG video "How To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test - EricTheCarGuy "

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

Its NOT the interior light.

I've only got 16, ooops, 23, fuses to pull. I'm taking bets on which one the loss is at...

Im taking a votes for which one of the 14 interior fuses and 7 engine compartment fuses is the problem.

21 fuses to cheat me out of going to the next level!

Watch out...I CHARGE BY THE HOUR.


(I'm at 13.47 volts now!)


Maybee 23 if you include the battery terminal circuit fuses.




22 = AM2 30A
23 = AM1 60A



1 = CHARGE 7.5A
2 = FAN I/UP 7.5A
3 = DOME 10A.... NOT THIS, it works fine, and no load when doors are shut.
4 = HAZARD-HORN 15A
5 = FAN 30A
6 = HEADLIGHT (LH) 10A
7 = HEADLIGHT (RH) 10A

I havent included the relays







8 = STOP 15A 11 = RNGINE 7.5A 14 = IGN 10A 17 = GAGE 7.5A 20 = SEAT HTR 20A
9 = RADIO 7.5A 12 = WIPER 20A 15 = TAIL 15A 18 = TURN 10A 21 = ECU-1G 15A
10 = ECU B 10 A 13 = CIG 15A 16 = FOG 15A 19 = SUN ROOF 20 A

.....Although I've had a key stuck in my Mustang and marooned on the drive, and self inflicted the overspending of two 12 V 55 A-H batteries on three nights from 2011 to 2015, I've never had parasitic fusing issues like the Toyotas have. Oh yeah, I blew a 32 year old radiator hose three times, and three alloy top water necks and killed a radiator. But every time, dead easy to get going again. I love Fords simple, easy wiring. Toyotas, always the same 23 step road to Nirvana...after you;ve checked all that, its likely to be something else...

Oh yeah it was the three pin alternator plug, and Fuse 23 were the problem, although AM1 60 amp was my fault...I fused it when I jumpered my battery at night to reliven the Toyota on the way to my second job.

Here's what I did to fix it.

I removed the three pin "pre OBDII" plug from the alternator,


dipped and shaked and stirred and agitated it in a CRC lid full of mineral terps to clear the white lithium disulphide someone had put on the pins.


Then CRC 556'd the living crud out of it. No improvement straight away, Car still wouldn't start unless it was push started....and then... I SAW IT!

AM1 60 Amp fuse, blown!








I grabbed my spare 1992 Corolla 1.8 Diesel AM1 80 Amp fuse, and slotted it in. Blew it right away. So I unhooked my auxilary battery, and placed the positive terminal on last. 14.47 volts charging....Systems go!





A big Bailterspace Wammo! to ya, Mr Toyoda!

At Five We Drive....




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAonleChPoQ

[Stormin' Norman]

xctasy, I don't know whether to LMAO or cry! I read the Fordsix thread, and LMAO. Why would anyone keep buying Toyotas, after that kind of pain? LOL!

I only have one blown fuse, on the alarms and warning circuit, but the parasite load is still there. I sure like our simple Fox circuits. No computer stuff and codes to deal with. God loves me, man. Next week's forecast will keep the brass monkey's cajones from freezing while pulling wires and solving this. Luckily, I have another set of harnesses and the EVTMs to save my soul. Just too cold and wet here for now, even with longjohns and thinsulite gloves.

Thanks for the methodology tips, albeit painful to read. LMAO!

[xctasy]

I want a Fix Or Repair Daily again...to make me sane.....


Not

This One You Oughta Tow Away

Take Off Your Oversized Tires A**hole

Too Often Ya'll Overvalue This Auto

Two Old Yamahas On Thin Aluminum

Take Out Your Old Tools Again

or

Totally Obnoxious Youth-Oriented Trash

[Stormin' Norman]

I want a Fix Or Repair Daily again...to make me sane.....


Not

This One You Oughta Tow Away

Take Off Your Oversized Tires A**hole

Too Often Ya'll Overvalue This Auto

Two Old Yamahas On Thin Aluminum

Take Out Your Old Tools Again

or

Totally Obnoxious Youth-Oriented Trash

That's how they named it huh?

Found On Road Dead is what I'm wanting to avoid.

[Stormin' Norman]

No pics needed for this stuff.

I had a couple wires with no matching connector at the ends, so I opened up the entire underdash 1981 Capri harness. I would not have done that without the 3 EVTMs (1979 F/Z, 1981 F/Z and 1981 M/C)

When I merged it with mine, I left a couple for 'some other time'. Well, this was it. One was the Seat Belt Comfort adjuster wire (Red/Pink). The newer dual warning buzzer has a different connection type, anyway that's corrected. The other was kind of a surprise. This 1981 Capri harness came off of a 3.3L I6 car, so I found that it lead back to the ignition switch, and was used on 4-cylinder Turbo engine cars. I pulled that out.

Next was my Courtesy Light Circuit. I installed visors with vanity mirrors on each side. LG/Y wire. I installed a map light (DG/LG wire). I installed those fancy dome lamps at the front and in the cargo area (LG/Y and BK/LB wires). I suspected that circuit was an issue. It was fine. It's in the 1981 F/Z EVTM, but for only one visor. Anyway, it's fine.

And then I found the Zingers. When I swapped in the SROD, I left the Automatic PRND21 lamp circuit. It runs nicely tucked into the same harness under the driver's seat as the seat belt warning. I hooked up the wrong one, affecting both the alarms and warning system, and the dimmable light circuit (blown fuse).

The other one was the Right Rear Power Window Switch. When I installed the plastic shelter, I couldn't open that door enough to get the harness out, so I pulled them off the switch without noting what wire went where. A few weeks ago, when I reconnected the wires, I thought I could get away with just reconnecting them according to the bends in the wires. The 1979 F/Z EVTM doesn't show the connector's pins, the 1981 F/Z EVTM doesn't show the pin numbers on the door switches, except the Master switch, BUT, I had a PDF of the 1980 F/Z EVTM, and it does show the pin number. Half the solution. The other half was finding which one is Pin 1 or 2. It's embedded in the white plastic back cover of the switch. With that info, I solved that issue. That was the reason for the battery drain.

The 1979 F/Z EVTM doesn't have as many drawings showing how that underdash harnesses are placed, but the newer ones have lots. It was a real problem packing all those in the last time, but with the newer EVTMs, I learned that the PW/and PDL harness goes at the base of the windshield, as does the courtesy light and front speakers and rear deicer harnesses. One of the side issues before was closing the glovebox. It would rub on the A/C Heater harness that sits in front of the glovebox. With that harness coming from below the glovebox, that's taken car of. The harness to the A/C/ Heater control doesn't need to be bent and twisted because the big deicer wire now comes from the top at the windshield and under the defroster duct.

Oh and my front Interval wiper governor wasn't grounded because I had done a great job priming and painting it. Now it's grounded.

I'll finish reinstalling the dash tomorrow and crank her up.

Little details can't be looked over. Thank God that Toyota didn't make Fords.

[xctasy]

....
His Fairmont Project car - Must See!:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...U14Vt7JJ_QSZvs

.......

As thay say in Scottish, yer nae' s'posed ta see that... that's the also 1979 to 1992 Falcon cross flow XD/XE/XF 3.3 and 4.1 Liter Sanden A/C unit position. It still doesn't get you or anyone header space unless you swap the battery to the drivers side (plastktanker's aka Turbo 83's, and EFI 86 onwards battery swap kit before he put the battery in the trunk..) as there is still another 10 Centi French Units or 4 Imperialist Knobies of space needed for the alternator, but its possibly a step in the right direction. In your case, a low mount A/C unit might freeze in inclement weather anyways...

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...elt-conversion

....



It looks like the alternator is still sitting on the header. It's just the angle. There's 4" between them.

And the wires. On my Nissan and my Toyota, they don't even color code the Celica GT4/RAV4 AWD wires or the replacement ABS sensor wires.

The Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual is an example of how North Americans are interested in respecting the people who actually service there rides.

[Stormin' Norman]

And the solution was...

It was hovering around 0*C (32*F) yesterday, and I was out there jumpering the starter relay, reading the EVTM, and pulling my hair, when the light came on. The connector at the transmission! Moved it, checked if it wasn't busted up and tried the key! Bingo! Started up like a champ!

All it does for a stick shift on these early Fox M/Ts is run the backup light switch wires. Ford puts the loop on the back side of that connector (to use the same connector as the Automatics). I re-soldered the loop under the dash, and ran a new pair of wires to the backup switch, under the console. End of dubious Start and Backup lamp circuits!

My Interval Wiper Governor might be up for retirement. I'll check that today and replace.