C4 & 2.73's VS. AOD & 3.73's

[aPanzerIV]

Hello all,

I've got a '81 Fairmont (foxbody) with the 200 I6, C4 auto trans, and 2.73 7.5" rear end. It's super anemic around town because it shifts very early and bogs the motor. It goes into 3rd at around 20mph under normal conditions and bogs until about 40mph. On the highway around 50-60mph it's got good pep.

I've heard that throwing an AOD at the 200 will just bog it down further unless you regear it, I was thinking 3.73's 8.8 out of a auto Tbird until I found out I had 2.73's.

I don't have a tach so I don't know if my rpm's at 50mph are acceptable for mpg's right now, but I'd assume the extra range of the swap would make the car more enjoyable to drive. Most of my driving is 50-60mph, but there are many hills and a town to drive through.

Could someone with more experience tell me if swapping an AOD and 3.73's is worth all of the work for a marginal increase in driveabillity?

[gmatt]

Did they make an aod that fits the I6? Mine had the I6/C4, I installed an 8.8 with 3.27:1 gears. Gave it a little more pep vs. the 2.73 gears.

[E2ZZGLX]

Keep the C4 and go with some 3.27 as noted above, have been running them behind my 3.3 C4 combo for years and really wakes the car up. Running 225/50/16 on it at 65mph she is running right around 3000 RPM. I was able to find a complete 7.5 3.27 traction lock from a LTD for mine

[Walking-Tall]

Adjust the bands, the kick-down rod, and screw the vacuum modulator screw inside the diaphragm's vacuum stem all the way in and back out about 1/2-turn (this makes the transmission remain in each gear longer, much more appropriately), and the car will act altogether differently and better. These are good things to do in general, and especially so with a meager-powered vehicle.

[xctasy]

Never made an AOD 3.3, but they made a low mount block with a close to V8 stud pattern block.


If its rare early casting EO BE 6015BB or the more common E1BE 6015 something,




it will actually have either a rare as heck Low mount C4 trans or a more common C5 trans.



The AOD bolts right in to the stock flexplate and a bit of work with the trans crossmember.


You just have to redrill the top two bolts to the block centers. Low mount blocks are rare, normally painted grey from the rocker cover up after 1982, the are around.


Use the 2350 rpm 39a prefix converter has a loose 2.53:1 stall ratio, the stock big bell flexplate used behind the 6 cylinder 3.3 C5's from 82 to 83 B and X code 3.3 's fits right up.The obsolete FoMoCo Basic Part Number is E1BP-6375-AA, but the Pioneer Y code 4.9 164 teeth flexplate with six on 3" bolt pattern can be slotted down to suit to a 6 on 2.75" bolt pattern by elongation of the holes inwards 1/8", and is like 35 bux .


The gearing at 3.73 with a 0.67 overdrive will suit fine. The trans up shift rpm is too low, and it'll work only if you use an 4.9 AOD truck YFA carb with the kickdown linkage converted to a TV rod, or this

https://fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f...514309#p514309

The transmission wasn't toast when I first got it. It worked quite well only the shift points came on too soon. It shifted into third at 35 mph in city traffic. Nothing a shift kit couldn't take care off. And of course overdrive kicked in whether you wanted or not; having an overdrive lockout is a great addition.

Adjusting the TV is extremely important with an AOD and a fairly simple process if you have an OEM setup or a carb with an adaptor kit from Lokar, which I had neither.



I adapted 250 throttle linkage bolted to the valve cover operated from 1970 Mustang throttle pedal and cable. Also used a Lokar TV cable to the AOD. It's not a perfect setup, but it works; however, a constant pressure valvebody takes the worry out of it.



I went with a 289 GT air cleaner, CI chrome valve cover and DSII with emission stickers and PCV it almost looks like a factory option, but then the wrapped header and aluminum radiator gives it away.

Thanks,

Use an oil pressure gauge (Harbor Freight's screws right in) and set it by pressures:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1450565-tv-rod.html

Under very light (under 1500 RPM) throttle, these are the correct shift points for the AOD:

1-2 = 15-20 MPH
2-3 = 25-30 MPH
3-4 = 45-50 MPH

TRANSMISSION - AUTOMATIC - AOD - REVISED THROTTLE VALVE (TV) LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE USING TV CONTROL PRESSURE

FORD 1980-84 FORD, T-BIRD, LTD

LINCOLN-MERCURY 1980-84 MERCURY, LINCOLN, MARK, COUGAR, MARQUIS, CONTINENTAL

LIGHT TRUCKS 1981-84 E SERIES AND F SERIES EQUIPPED WITH 5.0L ENGINE

This revised method of setting TV linkage on all AOD transmissions is the only way to adjust the linkage to the middle of the specification curve. This method sets the linkage to the most sensitive point.

The new procedure attached uses a TV control pressure gage block service tool D84P-70332-A. If that tool is not available, alternates are listed in the procedure. Highlights of the new procedure include setting the TV linkage at idle with the gage block installed to 35 +/- 5 Psi.

The "TV pressure method for adjusting the TV linkage" procedure is recommended for transmission shift concerns while the "Linkage Adjusted at the Carburetor" procedure is recommended when the idle speed is changed by 50 RPM.

LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT USING TV CONTROL PRESSURE TV ROD SYSTEMS ONLY

The following procedure may be used to check and/or adjust the throttle valve (TV) rod linkage using the TV control pressure.

1. Check/adjust the engine curb idle speed to specification required.

2. Attach a 0-100 PSI pressure gage, T73L-6600-A, with the adapter fitting D80L-77001-A, or equivalent to the TV port on the transmission with sufficient flexible hose to make gage accessible while operating the engine.

Obtain a TV control pressure gage block, service tool no. D84P-70332-A, or fabricate a block .397 +/- .007 inch thick (Figure . The following drill bit
shanks may also be used in order of preference: Letter X (.397 inch), 10 mm (.3937 inch) or 25/64 (.3906 inch).

4. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached and the throttle lever is off fast idle or the Idle Speed Control plunger* (if equipped) is at its normal idle position. The transmission fluid temperature should be approximately 100-150~ F. Do not make pressure check if transmission fluid is cold or too hot to touch.

5. Set parking brake, place shift selector in N (neutral), remove air cleaner, shut off air conditioner. If equipped with a Vacuum Operated Throttle Modulator, disconnect and plug the vacuum line to this unit. If equipped with a Throttle Solenoid Positioner or an Idle Speed Control,* do not disconnect either of these units.

IMPORTANT: Do not make pressure check in Park.

6. With engine idling in neutral, and no accessory load on engine, insert gage block (or drill shank) between the carburetor throttle lever and adjustment screw on the TV linkage lever at the carburetor (Figure . The TV pressure should be 35 PSI +/- 5 PSI. For best transmission function, use the adjusting screw to set the pressure as close as possible to 35 PSI. Turning the screw in will raise the pressure 1.5 PSI per turn. Backing out the screw will lower the pressure. If equipped with Idle Speed Control, some *"hunting" may occur and an average pressure reading will have to be determined. If the adjusting screw does not have enough adjustment range to bring TV pressure within specification, first adjust rod at the transmission as described in the Shop Manual.

7. Remove gage block, allowing TV lever to return to idle. With engine still idling in neutral, TV pressure must be at or near zero (less than 5 PSI). If not, back out adjusting screw until TV pressure is less than 5 PSI. Re-install gage block and check that TV pressure is still 35 PSI +/- 5 PSI.


*NOTE: Idle Speed Control is only on 1984 3.8L engine with AOD transmission.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: None
WARRANTY STATUS: "INFORMATION ONLY"

[xctasy]

There are other ways of getting an AOD in there.....http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...r-should-it-go

[Haystack]

Shift points are dependent on final drive gear ratio, changes based on gear.

My aod's with 2.73 gears behind a 302 shift 1st-2nd @ 14mph low pedal and 42mph floored, 2nd to 3rd @ 24mph low pedal and 68-70mph floored, 3rd-4th @ 40-41 mph low pedal and always downshift from 4th floored.

My old crown vic with 3.55's, same 302 and aod shifted 1st to 2nd @ 10mph low pedal and 35mph floored with od coming in at 35mph low pedal. Cant remeber the other gears.

As long as the floored 1st-2nd gear matches the low pedal shift speed into od, you should be good.

Also the tv cables stretch easier then the throttle cables, a new tv cable will change shift points from 40mph to 45mph or so with 2.73 gears for either 1st to 2nd shift or od low pedal. After about 20k miles it will be back around 40mph again. Or at least it did on 3 or 4 of my cars every time.

[xctasy]

As soon as Ford went Port EFI in i4's, i6s, v6's and V8's, along came the need to custom reposition the throttle body literally anywhere in the engine bay, especailly so depending on 4.9, 5.0, 5.8, Panther, Fox, F truck or E van. 2.3 's, it was pretty simple to keep everything the same.


That's why I really dislike the TV cables as apposed to the ancient High mount FMX/C6/C4 rod based TV operation.

The stock rod kickdown for the C3, c4 and C5 can be converted to a TV if you use the right Carter YFA/ Holley 1946 parts....

The stock linkage they had from 69 to 85 carb 1-bbls always had a really taut kickdown. The only difference is that at the trans,


the AOD swaps the std set up used in the rod operated 200 (C3/C4/C5) and the Big Six 240/300 (the non Cruisomatic FMX 69-78 where it was optional, but then the C4/C5/C6) for a different dirction at the gearbox, so you need to use the 80-85 rod link.

Stock cable C3/C4's, like this:-

The stock one on my European Cortina was cable operated, much like the cable C4 kickdown. Whatever Ford auto transmission you use, the information is there to make it work, but the C4 and C3's are cakewalks to operated a cable or rod kickdown.



Stock rod C3/C4's like this:-

The conventional rod system is below.



The AOD was effectively a Lincoln/ Panther platform avent, so this was I think the first system.




To copy it, you have to probably weld a threaded rod end to the nominal 1/2" to 5/8" diameter rod, or maybee just the flat bracket.

Type 1 Lincoln set up v





Type 2 Panther/Fox set up v





Type 3 Variation Reversed v





Type 4 Variation v




Basically, the rod is really well engineered, and on the 2-bbl 2100 Autolite/2150 Motocraft and some of them oddball VV 7200 and CFi's it clips to a standard upper mount. Basically, the FMX 4300/4350 downshift rod.


For the 1980 to 1985 Panthers, long wheel base Foxes and the CFi 5.0 GT, it was 1968 all over again

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10768/33518#content


Here's the whole megala...http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...63#post1847163

[xctasy]

The throttle kickdown or downshift rod can be easily reworked to become a Rod operated TV.

Here in the foreground left of the photo is a downshift rod common to all 1971 to 1983 Ford 3.3's....its also similar to the 1-BBL 4.9 LITER YFA F150 C4/C5/FMX

mated to an old small chamber 1963 170 Ford I6 head.




The rod its self then has its transmission ends changed to suit the AOD. I used an 89 cable TV F150 truck AOD, and modified the C3 linkage to suit it.

The rod is like this from another view. The business end is at the AOD transmission, with Fords two element levers.



C4/C5 F150



see https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-linkage.html

You can use any 1-bbl emissions era carb with the rod linkage, it'll work with the AOD as long as the freeplay is right.....the 1946C Holley, or the YFA Carter.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-a-3-3l-200CID