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  1. #1

    Default Can i just remove this? how to re-plumb?? Charcoal canister

    Im working on hiding the wires in the fenders and cleaning up the engine bay. ive read a few things on the charcoal canister and what not, im just lost as to what to do. i guess its best to keep it, but its just a mess. is it very necessary or a way to simplify it? i atleast want to hide it as best as possible.

    thanks for any input, feel free to add suggestions to hiding wires!






    1998 SVT Contour Daily Driver- K1 Racing Wheels CAI
    1985 Mustang GT T-top Black
    Freshened/Blueprinted 302-Heavily Worked GT40 Heads SS valves and Heavy Duty springs-1.6r Crane Cams RR-Custom Grind Comp Cam-Wieand Intake-Edelbrock Carb-MSD-King Cobra Clutch-World Class T5-Cobra 4whl Disc-31spl 4:10 rear-Longtubes-Strange 10Ways-Mac Exhaust with 3" Rolled tips-
    1984 RS Turbo Capri 100% Show car
    1982 Mustang GT

  2. #2

    Default

    i removed mine...I removed everything. Just make sure you plug up anything so you don't have any vacuum leaks.
    '99 Electric Green Cobra Convertible
    '00 Electric Green GT

    No more 4 eyed cars

  3. #3

    Default

    ok good to know. the motor is coming out in 2 weeks, im just trying to hide all the wires now so that i know it runs after its re-wired.
    btw engine bay is looking completely different, definitely not as hard as i imagined...
    1998 SVT Contour Daily Driver- K1 Racing Wheels CAI
    1985 Mustang GT T-top Black
    Freshened/Blueprinted 302-Heavily Worked GT40 Heads SS valves and Heavy Duty springs-1.6r Crane Cams RR-Custom Grind Comp Cam-Wieand Intake-Edelbrock Carb-MSD-King Cobra Clutch-World Class T5-Cobra 4whl Disc-31spl 4:10 rear-Longtubes-Strange 10Ways-Mac Exhaust with 3" Rolled tips-
    1984 RS Turbo Capri 100% Show car
    1982 Mustang GT

  4. #4

    Default

    If you remove it all, you're gonna have to do something with the vent line from
    the fuel tank. If you just plug it off, the tank will pressurize in warm weather. If
    you leave the line open, you're gonna be smelling gas fumes.

    Then there's the question of what to do with the bowl vent lines on the carburetor.
    If you just block them, it will cause hard starting, especially when the engine is
    hot. If you don't block them, you'll smell gas fumes. Not as bad as with the tank
    though.

    Just some food for thought...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  5. #5

    Default

    i was thinking about that. i have 2 charcoal canisters... i was thinking just to run my main lines from the carb and tank to the one inside the fender, delete the other and all the mess and should be better then plugging them off or just letting them hang.

    thanks for the heads up
    1998 SVT Contour Daily Driver- K1 Racing Wheels CAI
    1985 Mustang GT T-top Black
    Freshened/Blueprinted 302-Heavily Worked GT40 Heads SS valves and Heavy Duty springs-1.6r Crane Cams RR-Custom Grind Comp Cam-Wieand Intake-Edelbrock Carb-MSD-King Cobra Clutch-World Class T5-Cobra 4whl Disc-31spl 4:10 rear-Longtubes-Strange 10Ways-Mac Exhaust with 3" Rolled tips-
    1984 RS Turbo Capri 100% Show car
    1982 Mustang GT

  6. #6

    Default

    Yep, that would work. The pheds made Ford use two canisters with two fuel bowls,
    but when I retrofitted my old StaWag with the '85 engine, I connected the bowl
    vent lines together after the solenoids, then just ran a single line to the single
    canister. Never had any isssues, even with the Kalifornia smog nazis.

    My '85 still has both canisters, but I cleaned up the hoses a ton so it's not nearly
    so cluttered. The factory wasn't all that creative with their hose routing...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  7. #7

    Default

    yea thats for sure, they know how to make a mess of all those hoses as you can see in the pictures. thanks for your help but one last thing...

    when you are refering to the soleniods, are you talking about those little cylindar things with the red wire and ground wire coming out that break the lines? are those necessary or can i remove them to clean up some of the wiring?
    1998 SVT Contour Daily Driver- K1 Racing Wheels CAI
    1985 Mustang GT T-top Black
    Freshened/Blueprinted 302-Heavily Worked GT40 Heads SS valves and Heavy Duty springs-1.6r Crane Cams RR-Custom Grind Comp Cam-Wieand Intake-Edelbrock Carb-MSD-King Cobra Clutch-World Class T5-Cobra 4whl Disc-31spl 4:10 rear-Longtubes-Strange 10Ways-Mac Exhaust with 3" Rolled tips-
    1984 RS Turbo Capri 100% Show car
    1982 Mustang GT

  8. #8

    Default

    Those are the bowl vent solenoids. Their job is to open the line from the bowls
    to the canisters when the engine isn't running, and close the hoses off when the
    ignition is on. Without them, your fuel bowls will not take their pressure reference
    from inside the air cleaner when the engine is running.

    The solenoids can be re-mounted anywhere along the bowl vent lines. They just
    need a ground, and a source of 12V when the ignition is on.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  9. #9

    Default

    oh ok i understand now. thanks for the info. im going to be putting a new carb in when i do the motor in like 2 weeks, i take it, they will then no longer be necessary?

    thanks
    1998 SVT Contour Daily Driver- K1 Racing Wheels CAI
    1985 Mustang GT T-top Black
    Freshened/Blueprinted 302-Heavily Worked GT40 Heads SS valves and Heavy Duty springs-1.6r Crane Cams RR-Custom Grind Comp Cam-Wieand Intake-Edelbrock Carb-MSD-King Cobra Clutch-World Class T5-Cobra 4whl Disc-31spl 4:10 rear-Longtubes-Strange 10Ways-Mac Exhaust with 3" Rolled tips-
    1984 RS Turbo Capri 100% Show car
    1982 Mustang GT

  10. #10

    Default

    Hmm... OK. The bowl vent lines won't be necessary if you change the carb.
    What do you plan on doing with your old one?
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  11. #11

    Default

    old carb? no plans for it... runs fine with it, so im not gonna throw it away, i was gonna hang on to all my old stuff unless someone needs something
    1998 SVT Contour Daily Driver- K1 Racing Wheels CAI
    1985 Mustang GT T-top Black
    Freshened/Blueprinted 302-Heavily Worked GT40 Heads SS valves and Heavy Duty springs-1.6r Crane Cams RR-Custom Grind Comp Cam-Wieand Intake-Edelbrock Carb-MSD-King Cobra Clutch-World Class T5-Cobra 4whl Disc-31spl 4:10 rear-Longtubes-Strange 10Ways-Mac Exhaust with 3" Rolled tips-
    1984 RS Turbo Capri 100% Show car
    1982 Mustang GT

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member craigerSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    nova scotia
    Posts
    1,375

    Default

    just did a 300 horse rebuilt on my 83 capri,took everything off,didn't put it back on including the canisters ,left the line under the battery unplugged,no smell of gas.i used the factory carb and capped off unused lines,never run better
    Last edited by craigerSS; 07-12-2009 at 08:01 PM.

  13. #13
    FEP Member gt88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    S.F. Bay area
    Posts
    326

    Default

    Uh, boys, our fearless leaders in Washington are talking about making the rest of the country the hell that Kalifornia is- I would HIGHLY SUGGEST holding onto all the old smog stuff you guys have, just in case the Kali style smog gestapo shows up in your neck of the woods...

    Good luck!!
    Pro BMW tech- I'd rather fix the mustang, though..

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