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#1 |
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FEP Member
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I finally ran my car at the track yesterday, I have alot to improve in my driving and rearend. I did the one wheel pill through first and second gear the first time and ran 14.8 and the second time i tried to feather the clutch and ease on out of the gate. I ran 12.9 at 109.20 60ft 2.13 330 at 5.64 1/8 8.44 at 87.06 100ft 10.86 my question is how much would a new posi trac and a good set of drag radials help? and should i change my gears I currently have 3.55s and was at 5500 rpms in third gear through the end.
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#2 |
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FEP Senior Member
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At least part of the problem with saying what you can run is the spinning. When you spin, you typically "trick up" the MPH. With a decent 60' (mid 1.7's) 109 mph will get you well into the bottom 12's.
I would leave the 3:55, and fix the t'lok for sure. Tires are must if you want to ET. I am a believer that radials do not blong on a stick car, but others make them work. Consider a set of 26-10.50-15 ET Streets (biased) on a set of 10 holes for track use and have all the traction you will need. If this is as far as you plan to go (not bit by the bug), look into a set of MT ET Street radials. I would suspect with traction you have an easy 12.50 at 106-107 combo. If it hooks and still MPH's it will run low 12's. Bob Myers |
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#3 |
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FEP User
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I think you shoud run 12 lbs or pressure in the rear drag tires roll back into the water pull forward just past rhe puddle do a brake torque lill smoke let off the brake wile moving forward. Get to lhe line gring it up to 5 grandbring the clutch up to were iy wants to move second amber .He Gone.I say 12.60 and a win if You catch him sleeping
nice times.
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1985 t-top 302 Primmer gray http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQKuLQ1E0g4 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...ron_163661.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/k...2005_44878.htm |
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#4 |
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FEP Member
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Thanks for the input I forgot to say that I had junk street tires on the car and I am planning on a set of mt et streets just not sure how big to go. Thought about 410s for gears just not sure if it is worth it. and yeah the bug got me bad also thinking about a 100 shot.
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#5 |
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FEP Super Member
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Rear gear usually helps with the 60ft as well. I'm having 4.10's installed soon since I a)Barely shift into 4th gear before the finish line and 5) I'm only 60ft'in 1.70-1.76 with the current 3.73's. I use M\T 26"x10.5" ET Streets by the way. 4.10's will get me into the 1.60 range I want to be in IMHO.....
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'89 5.0 5-speed 'vert; 75 mile a day daily commuter. 331, AFR185, RPMII intake, TKO600, Zex 100 shot, etc. slowly getting dialed in.... 1\8th=7.43@92.54mph, 1\4=11.67@117.05mph for now.... |
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#6 |
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FEP User
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410 is great for natural asperated in my opinion and your tail pipes should be at your victims door causing the natural urge to shift when you do whitch normaly causes him to short shift.But thats not if they are vetern racers then they allways race there car not yours. 410 rev high on the expressway unless you keep it at 45mph or so but they are great for the hole shot on a sticky tire. id say 355 on spray best of both ?
get a wet kit with a rpm window switch abd a second feul pressure regulator. second gear comes real quick on the gun..
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1985 t-top 302 Primmer gray http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQKuLQ1E0g4 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...ron_163661.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/k...2005_44878.htm Last edited by KANARMAN; 03-29-2009 at 10:06 PM. Reason: stuff |
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#7 | |
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FEP Senior Member
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Quote:
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19 year old owner of oreo five o's 1989 Ford Mustang GT- Black, FR-500's, P headed 302 1985 Ford Mustang LX T-Top White ex 4 cyl car 1983 Ford Mustang GT T-Top Black 351 with nitrous |
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#8 |
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FEP Member
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I live in southeast texas near Beaumont. I am looking at getting the track lock fixed and a set of Mt et streets maybe some porting on the heads if its worth it, costs V/s results, they are AFR 185s.
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#9 |
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FEP Member
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Whats the combo??????????
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OOTB TW heads , AFM B4 cam , Systemax , 4.30's 2900w/ driver Best 1/4..... 11.51 @116 mph...1.52 60ft...1933 D/A Need a cage to go faster. |
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#10 |
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FEP Member
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Its a 347 stroker motor stock block girdled, all forged internals H beam, 1.6 7/16 stud roller rockers 86-95 5.0 roller lifters, eagle rotating kit 4.030 bore x 3.400 stroke .030" overbore 5.400 rod length -6.5cc flattop pistons and AFR 185s 61cc no egr or air pump springs upgraded to 8015s valves upgraded .50l rev not sure what that means 6350 5/16” .80 wall push rods Victor Jr intake and prosystems 780 db, Comp cam Intake 565 Exhaust 574, .006tappet lift 282 and 290, Long tube headers not sure what kind H Pipe 2 1/2 inch mandral bent with 2 chamber flow masters MSD 6a ignition system. I was told 10.6 to 1 but looking at the paper work it looks like 10.2 to 1 on compression. This is backed by a wcT-5 thats been beefed up, 8.8 with 3.55's and positrac. I hope this helps.
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#11 |
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FEP Member
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I have 4:10s in my car. I have a T5. It is not that bad on the highway if you keep it around 60-65. I kinda wish I had 3:73s. I am not planning on racing mine though. I might go up once or twice but thats about it.
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1978 Mercury Zephyr Z7 1998 Ford F150 |
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#12 | |
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FEP User
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Quote:
yeah I had a 7.5 rear with 410 and it was hard to play on the highway the stock block was screaming and I was waiting to break thats realy the only reason Iwouldnt recomend it but it is fun for quarter mile blasts. now I have 327 it keeps pulling and saves fuel but I have a stock btm end except for cam and a mild built top end
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1985 t-top 302 Primmer gray http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQKuLQ1E0g4 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...ron_163661.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/k...2005_44878.htm |
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#13 |
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FEP Member
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He probably makes gobs of torque so those 3.55's might be an ideal gear for him. Looks to me like you need a few more timeslips to get a better idea of how consistent your true trap speed is.
Fixing the trac loc and putting on a pair of drag radials or slicks and the car will pick up quite a bit. A 2.13 60' is pretty bad, get it down to a 1.6 or better (suspension) and I think you'll be happy. |
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#14 |
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FEP Member
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Ok got a set of mt et street drag radials 275 60 15 today and will have them put on tomorrow and try and get the tloc looked at if time if not I ll be running it again saturday and see if I can improve. I let yall know thanks for all the help.
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#15 |
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FEP User
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this might help but it is a little ghetto.
put new brake pads on the front loosen up rear shoes a little put friction mod in the rear end the first time drive around the water dump the clutch to clean off the tires get to the line dump it at 45-5500 rpm hope you hook and book if it feels squirlie stay in it keep the tires moving and dont worry about the crowd or the guy next to you and air down to 12lbs good luck
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1985 t-top 302 Primmer gray http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQKuLQ1E0g4 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...ron_163661.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/k...2005_44878.htm |
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#16 |
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FEP Power Member
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12.9 @ 109 is not shabby at all, but you are giving up lots in the first 100 feet or so. I would (I did) throw in an 8.8 with 4.10 and some aftermarket lower control arms (Steeda, SSM, MM, etc), and a good drag tire. Depending on your choice, you could throw some drag radials on race only wheels for the track or drive around on 'em.
I ran my BFG Drag radials on the street some but I just didn't like the way they felt on the street (I like the curves too). Matter of fact I remember not liking the way they felt at the big end of the track either--wobble-wobble! I was using a 235/60/15 (26" tall) tire with a Tremec 3550 tranny and in 4th gear at the 1/4 mile I was spinning 5,800--6,000 RPM. I run 4.10s, and while I don't drive my car everyday, I do drive it on the highway (freeway @ 80 MPH), they are fun. Driving on the freeway at 80 MPH, in od with a 27" tire, equates to about 2700-2800 RPM, right in my cams sweet spot. My thinking is: why do I need the gear to run 150 MPH for extended periods?
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'80 Merc Capri RS--306, TFS heads, MSD, Lunati, Tremec, 4.10s etc., etc.// '94 Lightning-#2252 KILLED in action 11-23-09 missed terribly // '10 Ford F-150 Crew Cab Lariat-wife's //02 Toyota Taco pre runner-now my DD Last edited by Chris Wood; 04-03-2009 at 06:12 AM. |
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#17 | |
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FEP User
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Quote:
or you will be all over the place like you said about the top end you run out of power to keep them moving if that makes sense? I would get a set af rims to use atathe track with the tires.If you get cought in the rain or a puddle of water you will have to clean your shorts ![]() I only hit 130 acording to gps in my car once after work on a back road with the t tops off and it was in the top of fourth gear it gets spooky with 90-10 and moroso trick springs
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1985 t-top 302 Primmer gray http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQKuLQ1E0g4 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...ron_163661.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/k...2005_44878.htm |
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#18 |
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FEP Member
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That doesnt sound bad at all to me, get the 60s down and it will be much better.
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#19 |
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FEP Member
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if the car hooks and you keep 109 mph that will get you 12.2 range.
You might want to upgrade if you havent the rear control arms, and at the track undo the front sway bar.
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86lx coupe 351w.....its just a truck motor ![]() captain cave man racing!!! faster than your first sexual experience |
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#20 |
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FEP Member
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I put on a set of mt et street drag radials yesterday, the tloc is still out but I am going to the track today anyway and see if it gets better plus I just need more time in the seat. 275 60 15 wish I would have went with 50 series this are 28 inch and its a little tight I had to roll the lip to make sure they want hit when pulling in the driveway but they look like they will be allright. I know i need the rearend fixed but I am looking for a third member with 373 and detroit locker right now. I called a couple of shops around here and they said about 800 dollars to fix it and It looks like i can get the third member with the gears allready for about the same. Ill let you know how i do today. I allready have aftermarket tublar upper and lowers with spherical bushings and lakewood 50/50s on now. I pretty sure it was the multi mile junk tires that where on the car.
Last edited by 79notchback; 04-04-2009 at 10:43 AM. |
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#21 |
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FEP User
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I say 1.8 12.51 @ 107 and a huge smile and a trip to to the local n.o.s drug dealer
good luck.
__________________
1985 t-top 302 Primmer gray http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQKuLQ1E0g4 http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...ron_163661.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/video/k...2005_44878.htm |
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#22 |
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FEP Power Member
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i think the 355s are not enough gear, especially with your tire choice. you bought a taller drag radial which effectively reduces your gear ratio. a set of 373s or 410s will really wake up your combination.
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. " Spending money I don't have......... on things I don't need......... to impress people I don't know. " http://www.youtube.com/v/HcD354133Ac http://www.youtube.com/v/rmPPnfHZ9WA |
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#23 |
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FEP Member
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Yeah 355's wont be enough for the track, go with the 410's!
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1983 Mercury Capri Crimson Cat 5.0 4 speed t tops 1986 Mercury Capri GS 5.0 5 speed 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft, flowmaster cat back, fms headers, pro 5.0 shifter, tokico suspension, o/r h-pipe 1990 Ford Mustang notch 5.0 5 speed pro 5.0 shifter, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 rear, ud pulleys, prothane mounts, mac headers, flowmaster cat back, o/r h-pipe, lowered 1971 IH Scout 800b all original 232 thrift six 3 speed 1992 Honda Civic VX 1.5 vtecE 5 spd 2001 Honda Insight Hybrid.. Best ave. 87.1 mpg!!!!! |
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#24 |
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FEP Member
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Ok ran it this weekend but didnt get a good time only ran it twice and both times I missed second gear Its coming fast now that I can actually try and launch the car. Ill try and get more seat time and post some times later.
Thanks |
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#25 |
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New User
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you really want traction, swap your front springs to the 4 cylinder front spring. it will help transfer the weight from the front to the rear. thats the thing with foxes you put any real power to the wheels and they just spin!
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