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  1. #1

    Default 3D-Printable Parts Compilation

    Finding 3D printable parts for our cars online is almost an impossibility. I believe that parts like these are very important. They are cheap to reproduce in the event of loss or damage to the parts, and (with 3D printers becoming more and more widespread) easy to distribute, and improve designs with widespread testing. This will also ultimately lead to better parts for everyone. With all this in mind, I have a couple 3D modeling projects in progress (2 3/4" Enkei92 center caps, and Marchal covers hopefully coming soon), and would like to find more out there as well. Anything I create will be completely free to download, and open source. You guys will be able to modify them to fit your needs, and print as many of them as you want! If anyone comes across any free-to-download 3D models online (preferably in STL format), please post them on this thread, I would like to get as many parts in here as possible.

    Designed by Me:
    5.0 Logo: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2639008
    iPhone 6/6S Case w/ aforementioned 5.0 logo on back: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2639015

    Designed by Others:
    Lumbar adjustment knob (have not personally tested): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:951732
    Hood prop retaining clip: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2750733
    Last edited by GliDeThuNDeR; 06-27-2018 at 02:20 AM.

  2. #2

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    This post previously included lumbar knob, but I moved it into the post above.
    Last edited by GliDeThuNDeR; 11-11-2017 at 07:46 AM. Reason: included in above post

  3. #3

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by ddx77 View Post
    I don’t know a lot about 3d printing but slowing learning.

    Can an SVO spat be 3d scanned and then printed?

    Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    While they would be difficult to print, it is doable on any printer with a large enough build volume. The biggest issue is obtaining a model. I don't have access to or experience with any "real" 3D scanner, so I cannot speak to how well it would work. The other option is to model them out.

    One thing that would be interesting is to print them in ABS, and treat them with an Acetone vapor bath. It effectively "melts" the layers together on the outer shell, and you end up with something that looks more like an injection molded part, rather than a printed one. Once painted to match the car, it's hard to say if anyone would even notice the difference.

  5. #5

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    Awesome idea, a friend just bought a 3D printer and he is going to be making custom bodies for Matchbox cars. Not sure how he will make the model, maybe he got a scanner too. He works in the aviation industry so he may have skills that pertain to his job. Cant think of anything else to print at the moment that hasnt be recreated by Scott Drake or other aftermarket parts suppliers. Good Luck with the printer.

    Mike
    1982 GT 351W, retro hyd roller, ported Pro Comp heads, Tremec, M2300K brake kit, Recaros...needs paint!
    1984 LX 5.0 Vert *SOLD*
    1993 Cobra #3971 mostly stock *SOLD*
    1966 FFR Cobra replica 383W, Vic Jr heads, Vortech YS, TFS Box intake, 652rwhp, crazy fast!
    1987 GT in MM&FF May of 97 "Not Fade Away" white and purple. Sold 1999

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    More accurate 85-86 moldings would be an awesome product also. Door trim wouldchwve to be made in sections and glued or plastic welded but the result could be amazing. Anyone who has priced the poorly molded kits knows why this is a topic for discussion.

  7. #7

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    I'm gonna build up a center console that has more modern features, like a cup holder and usb ports. Gonna model it with dollar tree foam board, might just fiberglass it instead of 3d printing it, but the inserts might be 3d printed.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  8. #8

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    Anyone with a set of calipers and and some 3D modelling experience can contribute! Just model it out, upload the STL(s) to Thingiverse, and post the link here!
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  9. #9

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    What kind of software do you use to create the wireframe models?
    1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
    BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
    Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
    8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
    Steeda Shifter

    2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
    Track Pack
    Pypes Violator axle back
    Airaid Cold Air

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    way to go, GliDeThuNDeR


    This is what makes the USA so cool. You've got an internal supply and demand, and the high cost of making one part for 30 dollars when it might be made for 0.30 cents if you could sell 500 is irrelevant. People will sell more than one part, hopefully, but if you need it, you can make it, and the effective cost is lower than tracking and tracking a New Old Stock or Re Pop.

    A repeat of the Cheeep Cheeep knockoffs are able to be made by STL file.

    The key thing is the intendant cost of any part is far more than its book vlaue....if you can't get it.

    3D printing is always going to save you on certain other costs, so its 30 dollar part cost for something Ford might have been able to make for 20 cents back in the day is just fine...if you can't get it. Even New Old Stock has a far greater cost than its book value...if you can't get it.

    The dual plastic vacuum hose coupler Ford P/N D4AZ-9E688-A is also a great candidate,



    as all those 4-BBL carb, CFi, and even later Port EFI vac parts break in service due to sand content.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-vacuum-motors
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nter-Car-Parts

    Guy's here supply 3D vacuum fittings like the 86 onwards Vacuum tree.

    86capri50,


    this is n20capri's site posts using the same system,


    https://www.shapeways.com/shops/MikesStuff

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nter-Car-Parts






    86-93 Mustang 5.0 Vacuum Tree in Black Strong & Flexible
    86-93 Fox body Mustang 5.0's have a vacuum tree on the firewall. The ends of the vacuum tree are in fact "caps". The unit is NOT solid. These can sometimes blow out





    - Quick and easy fix for either side. I do have the entire tree available if you'd rather go that route - it is more expensive than the re-popped one's but I do have it.
    86-93 Ford Mustang 5.0 Vacuum Tree Plug



    This is the firewall vacuum tree for 86-93 Mustangs (and 86 Mercury Capri 5.0 - and possibly other Ford and Mercury vehicles). This is no longer available new. Part # E6DC-9C491-AA. Direct replacement part. I also have the end caps if you happened to have blown them out!

    Your stuff fits right in, GliDeThuNDeR

    Your work is great to see.

    Saleen Mustang lumbar seat adjuster knob

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I would like to see a simple thin glue on speaker grill overlay. It's a perfect model of the stock left, center, and right speaker openings that tend to crack.

    Installation would involve cutting down any cracks that stick up then putting these grills over it.

    not talking show car fix here, just $0.03 that looks less ugly.

    reality is if you print the entire area where the grills are one section at a time and the cracks don't go into the raised area in the middle then once it's all glued up and painted it's going to look GREAT!

    if there are cracks that go up, I suspect the part that transitions up and the raised part could be done similarly.
    Last edited by erratic50; 11-16-2017 at 01:49 AM.

  12. #12

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    I have done a bunch of 3d printing and a little bit of design. The acetone melt actually works very well, even just applying it with a rag or q-tip can really improve rigidity and definitely appearance. This is a great idea to start listing all of the parts here with stls, as thingiverse is bit bloated with crap.

    If you want to produce high quality 'exact' reproductions or parts I suggest this free software https://www.freecadweb.org/
    The learning curve is steep but that is what youtube is for. Many excellent quick tutorials. There are super simple cad design interfaces online but I have found they do not produce accurate or necessarily good designs.

  13. #13

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    And there are ways to simply 3d scan, but I would just get a caliper and do it all by hand for car parts like the SVO stuff.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/3d-S...Just-a-Camera/

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    And there are ways to simply 3d scan, but I would just get a caliper and do it all by hand for car parts like the SVO stuff.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/3d-S...Just-a-Camera/
    If anyone has access to a 3D scanner, that would definitely help the process. Thingiverse is very bloated at this point I would agree, but there are no fox body parts out there to speak of.
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by vxr500 View Post
    What kind of software do you use to create the wireframe models?
    I use a combination of 3D builder, and Autodesk Inventor, but I plan on switching to Fusion 360, I just have to learn how to use it! Lol
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  16. #16

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    I am tempted to start with that door stopping strip on the gt350. I wonder how hard it will be to match the color though? Anybody tried to get that red?

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Yeah, DuPont makes stuff, basically, anything for a fee. The color underbase system used for cosmetics won't work for our Fox upolstery colored high lights.

    At the moment, its CMYK based ink pigment verses FFF 3D printer, so its really limited dynamically

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=kS2q5XH638Q





    69 thou PLA 1.75mmFilament samples fit 3d printer Prusa i3 with 28 colors



    http://www.prweb.com/releases/dupont...eb14786785.htm

    When the next big step is made, it'll be DuPont. Alreay, its unmatchabel quality, which is why its often the first thing cheap knock-offs leave out.

    EG https://www.reuters.com/article/us-a...A141T120140205

  18. #18

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    Name:  bae84cae-385f-4d1d-87af-b038fdd303d7.jpg
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    I know its been a while.... But progress has been made on Enkei 92 center caps. Almost there!
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Nice!

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Going to have to go get my Rikens so we have something to test fit with. Acetone wash would do wonders to the surface appearance too
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by erratic50; 06-04-2018 at 03:49 AM.

  21. #21

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    A lot of the imperfections in the print are simple because I haven't touched or calibrated my printer this YEAR. If you're looking for something treated with an acetone vapor bath, I guess I'll have to switch to ABS, lol.


    It's entertaining to think about how many wheels there are out there in the world that accept these center caps, but I currently possess the only set that has ever been additively manufactured (may not be true, but if it isn't, it just as well be. I've never seen any info out there about printing these)


    The model is getting there. I talked a coworker who is much better than me at 3D modeling into creating it. (I'm mostly just here to convert STLs into car parts). I'm trying to talk him into either putting it out on thingiverse, or allowing me to do so. If/when the finished model gets put out there, I'll make sure the link finds it's way here.
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GliDeThuNDeR View Post
    A lot of the imperfections in the print are simple because I haven't touched or calibrated my printer this YEAR. If you're looking for something treated with an acetone vapor bath, I guess I'll have to switch to ABS, lol.


    It's entertaining to think about how many wheels there are out there in the world that accept these center caps, but I currently possess the only set that has ever been additively manufactured (may not be true, but if it isn't, it just as well be. I've never seen any info out there about printing these)


    The model is getting there. I talked a coworker who is much better than me at 3D modeling into creating it. (I'm mostly just here to convert STLs into car parts). I'm trying to talk him into either putting it out on thingiverse, or allowing me to do so. If/when the finished model gets put out there, I'll make sure the link finds it's way here.
    I have a set of Enkei’s and ARE’s locally that we could try this cap on. If they fit, I would be more than interested in getting a couple sets.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  23. #23
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    A rough 3D shape could be easily improved with traditional paint and body techniques. That would be another way to end up with a good result.

    In the end, ABS is what they would need to be printed out of. A set of brakes on a hot day will heat up a wheel enough to turn PLA into a puddle.

    It is cool to see a 3D printed model taking shape like this. It’s almost beyond wildest imagination for a person of my generation to see rolls of plastic turn into familiar shapes.

  24. #24

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    Give Shapeways.com a look. You upload a .stl file and can get prices for a multitude of materials. I have printed several parts with good results using the Strong & Flexible Nylon. It produces a soft matte finish, polishing gives a slightly better finish. I've painted one part using water-based craft paint, but it is an interior part. Not sure how it would respond to typical rattle-can type paint.

    As an aside, I made replacement center caps for my ARE's about 15 years ago on a mini-lathe out of aluminum before 3-D printing was so mainstream. Pretty much identical as below, but without the ribs.
    1985 GT owned since new

  25. #25

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    I have what I believe is the finished model. May need to tweak it if it doesnt fit, or to make it easier to print. I'll do a test print of the new model and post pictures.

    I'm playing with orientation and material at the moment. I agree that PLA will probably not hold up on a hot day once you account for the fact that brakes exist.

    I am concerned that ABS will have a hard time handling the overhangs for the fillet's, and the clips that attach the cap to the wheel. If not, I'll probably try nylon. I've never worked with nylon, but I've heard its a PITA moisture wise. I guess I'll find out. I've already converted from a PTFE lined heat break to an all metal one.
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

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