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  1. #101

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    What kind of rear calipers do you have? I don't know of a Ford caliper that used bubble flare. As for the fronts, it's very possible they are different side to side. All you need is an adapter. Parts stores always have them.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #102
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    I'm fairly certain the fittings on the front hoses are different from the factory. As "proof", note that MM only sells an adapter for one side - http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...-FOX-P730.aspx - if you're putting SN95 brakes on a Fox.

  3. #103

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
    I'm fairly certain the fittings on the front hoses are different from the factory. As "proof", note that MM only sells an adapter for one side - http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...-FOX-P730.aspx - if you're putting SN95 brakes on a Fox.
    You make perfect sense. Ford on the other hand... Don't get me started. Guess I'll keep the hoses and get the adapter. Bad news on the K-member. I called up Griggs and they pretty much said that I would be better off getting a k-member for a 4.6 rather than making this one work. Boo!!! On the bright side, several months ago I bought my front calipers from a local guy, and he had a tubular k-member sitting in his garage. I kept his number just in case, and he still had it. Its an AJE, which kinda looks wimpy compared to the Griggs or the MM, but it'll do. I don't plan on autocrossing or racing the car, maybe a few trips to the 1/4 mile. The bonus to that is that I didn't really want to use coilovers, and the k-member has the stock control arms off a 2003 cobra on it. Which as I have read is the best years for factory Ford control arms. So I can just use the eibach springs I bought a while ago. Hopefully I'll pick it up on Saturday. And hopefully I can recoup the money I have dumped into the Griggs k-member.

  4. #104

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    You may have to do some fender surgery to make SN95 control arms fit under an F/Z. It's possible though. Martin Pond did it on his cars. Fox control arms are much easier to fit though.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #105

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    I'm hoping that I'll be OK as far as width is concerned. I'm assuming that the Griggs k-member and control arms with the 94/95 spindles increased the width already, and the tires don't rub as it is because I'm not going to run super wide tires. The front is already wider than the back, and that is with the Cobra IRS back there. So, I can't imagine that the AJE k-member with sn95 control arms will be any wider than what I have now. Hopefully...

    Now I'm researching what ball joints and bushings to get. My springs are Eibachs and are supposed to lower the car 1.5" or so. The Steeda X2 ball joints are supposed to help with lowered cars by doing things and stuff (I'm still reading up on them) The question is, are they worth the steep price tag of $136 vs $85 for regular ball joints? Since I'm not lowering my car all that much, I don't know if they would really help that much.

    Also, there are offset control arm bushings. They, like the Steeda ball joints, are supposed to make everything better by also doing stuff and things (Still reading up about those as well)

    And maybe I should get some offset rack bushings while I am at it. I already have a bumpsteer kit, and the MM CC plates, and if I am inferring correctly those two things should be all I need. As in no need for the Steeda ball joints, offset control arm bushings, and offset rack bushings. I could be wrong, I haven't had much time to research this stuff. And its all so very confusing, but at the same time its fun learning about it and building a car exactly how you want it. Except for the money aspect, had I the money I would just throw the MM catalog at the stupid car and call it a day.

  6. #106

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    As far as i know, the bumpsteer kit is the only one of those things you NEED besides CC plates. I don't even have one of those and I've never had a problem, but then again, i haven't put many miles on the car either. That will hopefully change soon.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #107
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    I'm with Brad - the bumpsteer kit and CC plates are all you should need. The Steeda ball joints are a "nice to have" that would improve the front end geometry, but there are bazillions of lowered Fox-body cars running without them.

    The offset rack bushings shouldn't be needed since you'll be using a bumpsteer kit.

    The offset LCA bushings are another "nice to have" that would improve front end geometry, but again aren't really necessary. If you're planning to replace the LCA bushings anyway, then I'd say get the offset ones, but I don't think there's any need to do those if the existing bushings are fine.

  8. #108

    Default Hooray for consensus!!

    I'm glad we are on the same page about the "little things." Good news is that the AJE k member for a 4.6, actually fits a 4.6.Name:  IMG_1963.jpg
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    The bushings are pretty toast, but the ball joints feel good. But one of the boots is torn, so it would probably be a good idea to just replace them while I am at it. So the way I see it, it'll be $105 for the offset bushings, probably $70 or so for new ball joints, and probably $50 or more to have them all pressed in by a shop. So realistically I am looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $225 and time and effort for me to clean the old control arms up, take them to a shop to get the new stuff pressed out and in, then paint them to make them look pretty. And they would still be factory control arms that weigh a ton. For $300 I can get AJE tubular control arms for regular coil springs with new bushings and ball joints and save time and weight. Then I can maybe sell the control arms I have, because I was told they were off an 03 Cobra, and make up the difference. Unless someone has a compelling reason not to, that is what I am leaning towards.

    So now the choice is, what version of their tubular control arms should I get? The fox arms, or the SN-95 arms? I called AJE and talked to a guy, who was very helpful I might add, and he basically said that the only reason to go with the fox arms is because I will have tire clearance issues. The SN-95 arms will be better because they are wider and I can get more camber. I measured the distance of the Griggs stuff on the car currently, and it was around 15" from the center of the control arm bolts to the ball joints. The AJE stuff measured close to the same. Since I'm not running massive tires, clearance from rubbing shouldn't be a problem. And it isn't a problem right now, so I see no reason to not use the wider SN-95 arms. Can we achieve consensus again?

  9. #109

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    You'd better test fit everything with those SN95 arms. I almost guarantee you'll have rubbing with them. Yes, you can have more camber with the SN95 arms, but what good is that if they don't fit under the fenders? I'm sure the guy at AJE was very smart about Mustangs, but I'll bet he's never dealt with the boxy Foxes.

    If you're looking to buy control arms anyway, you might as well just buy the ones that fit, rather than have to mangle your fenders like you were looking at having to do to save money. If you do buy Fox arms though, make sure they have the SN95 ball joints pressed in or your SN95 spindles won't fit.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 05-10-2017 at 08:15 AM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #110

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    The guy actually seemed knowledgeable about the our non Mustang Foxes. He said I'd probably have to modify the rear mounting points for the K member to get it to fit, so he did know a few things. I'll have to check when I get home, but I think I have the CC plates all the way over and the wheels are, from my eyeball test, basically straight up and down. As in very little to no camber. I'm concerned that if I get the shorter Fox arms then I won't be able to get it aligned properly.

  11. #111

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    Well, if you test fit with everything you're going to use installed, and sitting at ride height, maybe run the steering lock to lock, and they fit, then giddyup.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #112

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    Parts are on the way to finish the suspension. For the second time... In the meantime, I installed the Steeda underdrive pulleys and I also got the new K member installed. I squared it up as best I could, lets hope that I got it right. The rear mounting bolts were off the mark, which is to be expected for an early Fox. I don't think it'll matter too much as long as it can be aligned properly. So if everything gets to me as advertised on Saturday I can get the car back on its wheels and throw the motor in again. I'd like to get that done and test fit the transmission to see what I need to do to make that fit. Which will let me know where I have to cut the tunnel for the shifter. Which will let me know where to install the Mustang handbrake. I have a Stifflers crossmember, but early Foxs are goofy as we know... Speaking of transmission stuff, I did get a new aluminium flywheel off Ebay for $180, and a new Spec clutch off craigslist for $89. I've read mixed reviews about Spec, but for $89, which was all I had in my wallet at the time, I'll give it a shot.

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    Note the high performance washing machine. It has to be performance with all those stickers on it.

  13. #113

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    I got the control arms on, and the springs in. I highly recommend the MM spring install tool, it made it so much easier. I had some trouble getting everything buttoned up, because once I jacked up the control arm to get the strut bolted to the spindle it started to lift the car up instead of compressing the spring. I had to wrestle with it to get the bolts in. I don't have the spacers that came with the MM CC plates on the top of the CC plates under the top nut for the strut installed yet, because I couldn't compress the spring enough without the weight of the engine. I do have both of those nuts tightened equally, and when I went to install the sway bar links I noticed that the control arms are at different heights. Its hard to tell from the picture, but the passenger control arm is lower than the drivers side.
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    The sway bar links were fine on the passenger side, but the drivers side there wasn't enough room. It was dark and late and I decided to call it a day, so I haven't had time to investigate why the difference. But I was wondering if anyone has run into this before and had an answer for me. Hopefully tomorrow I'll drop the motor in and button up the suspension properly. Maybe that'll take care of it.

  14. #114
    Mike1157
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    All I know is that I have an SN 95 front brake conversion on my Futura. I used 94-95 spindles, and the stock 78 fairmont LCA's. I have UPR CC plates and they are completely set inboard.
    That setting nets me a perfectly vertical sidewall. The tires (245/40/17's on 8" wide SN 95 BS'd rims) rub the fenders at full lock, and contact the inner aprons at the inside front and rear most points.
    Now push out the bottom of the rotor significantly through the usage of a SN 95 LCA, and you may be able to push your CC plates fully outward to get the same vertical sidewall,...but I'd bet that your tire will be all over the fender, unless you run your ride height so high the car will look goofy.

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1157 View Post
    All I know is that I have an SN 95 front brake conversion on my Futura. I used 94-95 spindles, and the stock 78 fairmont LCA's. I have UPR CC plates and they are completely set inboard.
    That setting nets me a perfectly vertical sidewall. The tires (245/40/17's on 8" wide SN 95 BS'd rims) rub the fenders at full lock, and contact the inner aprons at the inside front and rear most points.
    Now push out the bottom of the rotor significantly through the usage of a SN 95 LCA, and you may be able to push your CC plates fully outward to get the same vertical sidewall,...but I'd bet that your tire will be all over the fender, unless you run your ride height so high the car will look goofy.

    I put the front wheels back on last night, and it appears my careful calculations/dumb luck has paid off. With the AJE K member and AJE tubular SN-95 control arms and 94/95 spindles, it looks like I'll just barely clear the tire to the fender. I think the rims I have are only 7" wide. Maybe. I'm not sure, and I'm too lazy to try and look it up to get a definitive answer. I think that having the late model rims with the greater offset helped. So it appears that I have enough clearance right now. Also, I have a little more adjustment left in the CC plates, and the eyeball test has the wheels perfectly vertical. So I think I'll be good on that front also.

    The problem I'm currently having is that the drivers side is about an inch lower than the passenger side. I have no idea why. The control arms just swing in an arc, and the spindles just sit on the ball joint. So unless the struts are different, I don't really see how there can be a discrepancy. I suppose I could use the spacers that came with the CC plates to alter the height a bit and even it out, but I'm just wondering if I've missed something obvious that is causing a hang up.

  16. #116

    Default Good news, then bad news, then good news, more good news, then bad news

    Good news: I finally got the brake lines plumbed and tightened down. In theory all I have to do is fill it with fluid and bleed them. So then I went to put the engine in.

    Bad news: The ram for the engine hoist finally gave up the ghost. Filling it with fluid and bleeding it yielded no results.

    Good news: Harbor Freight is within walking distance of my house, so $55 late the hoist is operational.

    More good news: The engine fits!
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    Bad news: The shorty headers I bought have no chance of fitting. The tubes come up and out, and there isn't much width left with the big mod motor in there.

    More bad news: The stock exhaust manifolds won't work either, or at least as I have the car configured now the drivers side hits the steering shaft. I can get spacers that go between the K member and the frame to essentially raise the body to try and get some clearance. I already did that with some strips of steel, so I raised it about a 1/4" or so. They make 1/2" spacers, and maybe that will help. They also make spacers that go between the motor mounts and the frame to raise the motor up, but that'll probably create more problems than it will solve. What will most likely work is a set of long tube headers. And I ordered a super cheap set last night, and they will be here tomorrow. LMR built a Fairmont with the 3V as well and they got long tube headers to fit with a little bit of hammer work. The ones I ordered look like clones of the Borla headers, though I'm sure the quality and longevity of them will not be good. I'm basically trying them out as a proof of concept. If they fit then I'll keep my eye out for the quality ones. I've read that the cheap headers will not last very long before they rust away. The biggest problem I see with long tubes is the pathetic and illogical smog laws in CA. When swapping an engine in CA, all the smog equipment must be present and unaltered. The catalytic converters cannot be moved, and that is why long tube headers are illegal in CA. Last year there was a bill going through the legislature that would have made cars 1980 and older smog exempt. It is currently 1975 and older. Unfortunately the bill failed. Boo!!!! I'll figure something out.

    The last thing I did was level the front suspension. I took everything apart and checked that the springs and struts were the same height, then put it all back together. I still had the passenger side control arm lower than the drivers side. So I just played with the spacers on the CC plates to get it even between the two sides. I'm not sure if that is recommended, but its easy to change if I messed up. Next thing is to install the trans temporarily so I can cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, locate the handbrake, and see if my crossmemeber will fit. Progress!

  17. #117
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Wrath of kyle, I've noticed you switched k member do you still have the other k member or any interior parts?

  18. #118

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boxtop78 View Post
    Wrath of kyle, I've noticed you switched k member do you still have the other k member or any interior parts?
    I do still have the Griggs k member, and it'll be up for sale soon hopefully. I've got some other things to take care of first. I recall seeing a Boxtop for sale on craigslist not long ago in Stockton, was that yours?

  19. #119
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Yes it was me. What is the asking price for the k member?

  20. #120

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    No buying or selling parts outside of the classifieds. Either use the classifieds or go directly to private messages. Thanks.

  21. #121
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Ooops, my bad.

  22. #122

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    I finally made time to work on the car and get the trans mount sorted out. 105 degree temps in Sacramento and a 20 mile bike ride (by choice because I'm crazy) make me kinda lazy when I get home.

    Anyway, the Stifflers crossmember fits pretty good, but it took some modifications to make it fit.

    Attachment 113425

    I bought my mount off ebay, and the guy said it was for a 3650, so I don't know for absolute what application it is for. I bought the trans mount off Rockauto (anchor 3244), and the 2 didn't play nice. The studs on the mount are almost 3 1/2" apart, and the slots on the crossmember are less. Maybe I got the wrong mount, or the wrong crossmember, both are possibilities. But rather than send things back I chose to modify them to fit. All I did was cut the studs off the mount, drill holes in the proper locations, cut some threaded rod to the proper length, and then secure it with a washer and nylon nut on the inside of the mount. That gave me the proper bolt spacing. And on to problem number 2.

    Attachment 113428

    The space between the ears is around 3", and the length of the crossmember mounting points was longer. So I simply cut off the excess to make it fit. And fit it does.

    Attachment 113429

    Hopefully the weather cools off so I can get some real work done in the next few weeks. Getting the engine and trans located gives me lots of things to work on now.

  23. #123
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    It's coming along nicely, can wait to it on the road do you plan on putting it on the road or is it more of a track Car? As you know California smog laws is tough as it is and I have read some articles on hot rod magazine that pre-'80 vehicles to be exempt from smog in 2018.if that's the case then I might want make mine fmont a daily driver instead of a track car. I could be wrong on this smog stuff.

  24. #124
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    I'm doing a 3v swap in my 83 gt. I bought a set of Mac 2v headers with a set of kooks 3v flanges welded on. I'm going with the tr3650 as well, but I'm using a 01-04 cable clutch model.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  25. #125
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    The 3 attachments from wrath of kyle's post on the 22nd:






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