Car when I bought it last November. Paint was 7 months old.
Put a cover on it in Portland and stored it until today.
And here it is today when I took off the cover.
Not happy.
Car when I bought it last November. Paint was 7 months old.
Put a cover on it in Portland and stored it until today.
And here it is today when I took off the cover.
Not happy.
What the.....
Fluid or moisture puddle on the cover? What kind of cover and is there any recourse for you? Chemicals within the (brand of...) cover that discolored paint? (google that)
conmech - aka Marshall
Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.
D@mn!
Mike
My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red
Brand new cover. Not a cheap one either. I'm not there. A friend picked up the car to haul to Alaska in his new race car trailer and asked why I said it had a nice paint job.
WHOA! That does suck!
I think it has to do more with the paint than it does the car cover. I would think that even thought the paint looked killer on it, they may have copped out with either the brand or the application process.
I have seen that happen to a couple cars that were improperly prepped and painted with bottom of the barrel paints. It was never an issue until it sat outside for some time and got some moisture underneath the cover and it did the same thing. The weird thing about it were the covers were nice ones and didn't seem to leak, but they allowed the moisture on the ground to evaporate and then it got between the cover and paint to where it stained the paint like that. They were top of the line "breathable" covers, but it didn't matter due to the quality of paint on the cars.
I feel for ya and Unfortunately, it looks like a repaint might be in order again.
Last edited by 84StangSVT; 05-15-2017 at 07:14 AM.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
The paint used was Endura. Supposed to be really durable, if not extremely glossy. Looked excellent before the cover went on. Not sure if there is any recourse, I'll have to wait until the car gets here and see. I bought the car from a guy in Canada and it was painted there. Pretty sure the paint used was Canadian. It's called Endura. Supposed to be durable. The cover is a high end breathable cover I bought for my CL65 in 2013. It was only on the CL one weekend when we got rained out at the track before putting it on the Fairmont. Looks like the car would have been better off without a cover getting rained on and having leaves pile up on it.
Yeah, I think a repaint is the only solution. Trying to decide, Ford Sonic Blue like my Lightning or A pearl white......
Last edited by Dr. Matt; 05-15-2017 at 10:42 AM.
I would blame the paint. What brand cover is that? It looks like a Budge. I had one of them and will never buy another. I use CoverCraft on 4 cars and the only thing I get is dust from the cover needing washed.
It was a covercraft
Sorry, man. That sucks.
Brad
'79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
'17 Ford Focus ST
'14 Ford Fusion SE Manual
Anybody have a pic of a single color dark blue Futura? Like I said, if it has to be painted all over thinking Sonic Blue, Peril White, or Bright Metallic Silver. Might do the scoop in a Matte Black. Wheel well trim is going away for sure as is the trim at the bottom between the wheel wells.
Is the paint single stage or base coat clear coat?
I wouldn't be quick to blame the paint. Could be the chemicals in the cover that attacked the paint. I did a motor swap in my 85 years ago. I left the fender blanket on the pass side fender for 2 weeks while I was putting the new engine together. During the swap the fender blanket fell off the fender and the paint on the top of the fender was all splotchy from the fender blanket. whatever chemical that was in the fender blanket attacked my clear coat. Didn't hurt the paint underneath. One of these days I will wet sand the clear coat and get it back the way it is supposed to be.
85 G.T. All motor
337 c.i.d 11.44-120 mph
1984 1/2 G.T. 350 (13.01-106 mph)
1984 G.T. (Daughters car)
1986 G.T. (Son's car) (12.99-105 mph)
It is a single stage paint.
I'd suggest taking it to a reputable body shop to see if there's anything they can do about it. If it's on the surface of the paint, they might be able to wet sand/buff and work it out. It can't hurt to ask, that's a lot cheaper than stripping and repainting the whole car.
Single stage, I'm willing to bet it absorbed silicone or oils from the cover. I'd second the recommendation to bring it to a body shop. I think a good clean (like, cleaning with a wax and grease remover) and a good coat of glaze (not wax) might do wonders, or a cut and buff.
1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.
Thanks guys, that's the plan once I get it here to Alaska. For now it's sitting in Portland without the cover on it. The concern I have is there looks to be bubbles in the paint whee it was smooth before. If that's the case it is going to have to be stripped to get rid of them, at least where there is visible damage.
yeah, bubbling paint is another thing altogether...
That sucks! Terrible deal there - sorry!
Damn... never have seen THAT before !
1985 Mercury Marquis LTS... "The Unicorn"
1978 Fairmont... 306 and a C4.
Yeah, not too happy about it.
Oh well, I guess it falls into that "first world problem" category. It sucks, but after all the car is just a toy. I planned on a budget of about $20k to turn it into a 9 second street/strip/show car. It's going to look even better in the end, I just didn't plan on putting a bunch of $ into it before I could enjoy the car at all. It looked "good enough" to take to some shows and even take out to the track and do some "before" passes when I'm there racing my CL.
Now it is going to sit in the garage hidden away like an ugly duckling until it gets paint. But while it's apart for paint I will gut the interior to freshen it up, take it to the chassis builder for battle boxes, mini tubs, through frame sub frame connectors, bracing of the 9" housing, and an 8 point cage. Probably install the 408 before painting it too. Going to be a different car in a year.
Then the next winter it will get the AOD swap, K-member and coil over front suspension, big brakes and a few other odds and ends to prep it for the Dart block, aluminum headed twin turbo EFI 427......
Not a Futura, but here is a couple of shots of my 78 Fairmont sedan in 2 different blue paint jobs.
1978 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 428CJ 4speed. 9.972ET@132.54mph. 1.29 60 foot
Replaced the FE big block with my 331/4 speed in my Fairmont, best 10.24ET @128 MPH.
1985 Mustang LX hatchback NHRA Stock Eliminator 302 4 speed best in legal trim 12.31@107 mph, but has gone 11.42@115 with aftermarket intake, carb, and iron Windsor Jr. heads.New for 2012! 331 cube SB Ford, AFR 185 heads, solid flat tappet cam, pump gas; 10.296ET@128.71 mph, 1.37 60 foot.
1979 Zephyr Z7, all original 302 auto, 2nd owner.
Paint or not, what's stopping those "before" passes? It already looks better than 80% of the stuff at the track...at least run it some to get a feel for what you have!
I might still take it out to the track just for the heck of it. Just thought it would be ok going slow if it looked good. Now it's slow and doesn't look so good, lol. Keep in mind when I say slow my DD runs 10.7's, weighs 4700#'s, and has 2.65:1 ring and pinion. My best recorded 0-60 is 2.35 seconds. The Fairmont with a stock '92 SEFI 5.0 & T-5 with 3.73 rear gears doesn't exactly pin you in the seat the way my Mercedes does.
Put some flames on the hood first, that ought to help!
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