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  1. #1

    Default MSD 6al switched hot

    I've read post after post, looked over the schematic, again, called msd..and here I am. I have no wires hot on start and run. The Duraspark is long gone, has been..I traced out L-16 which should be it, only hot on run, not start. I read about the brown pink wire, it's only hot on start, not run. I used a voltmeter and a test light, I have no wires that are hot in both start and run. Can anyone offer some insight? The car did run with this same setup, but it was a rats nest, so I tossed most of the rats nest and started from alost scratch.....thanks..I've jumped the wire with a remote started to make sure I have spark from.the box, to eliminate and equipment malfuctions...thx

  2. #2

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    So it looks like I need the red/lt green wire and the brown/pink wire to become one...anyone know how that's done?

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I had the same issue and just spliced the two wires at the ignition switch. The start powered wire I used did not feed any other circuit, so no issue with the run power back-feeding something else. I don't recall though which terminal off the ignition switch it was.

  4. #4

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    One way to do this would be to use an earlier style starter relay, that has two small posts. On the early
    style relay, the second small post is there to provide a straight 12V ballast bypass to the coil during
    startup. You would tie that to your red/light green 'hot in run' feed.

    The less easy way (or maybe not) is to tie the red/light green and brown/pink wires together, like they
    are on the TFI cars. You might could do that right at the ignition switch connector.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

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  5. #5

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    Jeff, I have the dash out and have access. The wires are right there, ready to be soldered together after the pork chop connections. I should have no issues then putting the red/LG and brown/pink together with the small red wire from my 6al? Here is what I will be soldering together if that's the caseName:  14580674292891079423749.jpg
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  6. #6

    Default

    Well..I put them together and it started. It just doesn't seem right..like it should backfeed...

  7. #7

    Default

    Isn't there a diode in the solenoid to keep the "I" terminal from backfeeding to the "S" terminal, and causing the starter to be stuck on?

    IIRC, when I put Duraspark on my '68 Cougar, I thought I was smarter than Ford, and connected the "hot during cranking" wire on the ignition box to the "S" post, and then had problems with the starter hanging up a few times. Once I moved it to "I," it never happened again.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
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  8. #8

    Default

    Eww..I don't know about that....I've done A LOT of reading, and searching, and 2 folks said that I could do what I did, by putting them together under the dash. I know JACOOK seems to know his way around these cars very well from just reading his posts, and I'm definately not questioning him, it just seems sooooo wrong to connect the hot in start and hot in run wire together and not expect something to go awry to me...it started, I just hope I did it all the way he meant..lol...

  9. #9

    Default

    I would trust his advice over mine.

    And I think a simple diode would solve any backfeeding problems.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    On my 79 I looked at the ignition switch diagrams and wiring diagrams closely. The ignition switch has two separate sets of poles for the run and start positions. The connection I used was otherwise unused, so tying it to the run wire did not create any back feed problems. The actual start wire for the starter was on the other set of poles.

  11. #11

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    I looked at my schematic...I see the red/lg looks legit.. here is the page..but...it's not showing the brown/pink (262) at the switch...but it between the r/lg and the bk/lg. This is where my schematic knowledge ends...I just don't know..and I'm scared to put it back together and it fries something, like the ignition switch..Name:  14581695258742003887132.jpg
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  12. #12

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    FWIW my wiring did not match the diagrams either nor did the switch terminals actually match the diagram. There wasn't even a wire in the terminal I needed to use once I figured out I had no power to the system under cranking. It is possible though I may have pulled the original wire myself as I stripped and rebuilt the harnesses adding and subtracting wires as needed or not. I ended up determining which terminal was the correct one by comparing the switch diagrams to my testing, then used a donor wire and terminal I had stripped out from elsewhere. If the wire is not shown in the diagrams then working to trace the wire in your own harness to see where it goes might be the only way to determine it's purpose. Aside from the starter itself, there are not a lot of other functions that get power under cranking. One is to light the idiot lights in the dash as a test function when cranking. Most other power loads are cut out under cranking to reduce battery draw and keep all available power for the starter and bare essentials like the ignition.

  14. #14

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    Ok..I've traced, looked at the evtm, pmd jeff...and with a littlexplaining...I get it...kind of like right in front of my face, couldn't see the forest through the trees..here's what I got..
    Originally..the red/green and brown/pink connected then went to the coil...there was a resistor wire in there...that's all gone...so I have red/lg (hot in run) and brown/pink (hot in start)....I was worried about back feeding into the ignition switch, which it will, but there is nowhere for the power to go, except back to each wires pole on the switch. One isn't energized when the other is, so as long as nothing is connected anywhere else, I'm good. So..thanks all of you for your thoughts and insight...taki NG your time to get my Ole girl running again..it is very much appreciated!!

  15. #15

  16. #16
    FEP Member 83GLCoupe's Avatar
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    My brain just clicked. That diagram is set up like the points system on my '57 312. You want 12v to the coil when cranking to make starting easier, then drop the voltage in run (through the resister wire) to the coil so that you don't burn out the points.

    The only down side I see to tying these wires together is that everything that is powered in the run position will also be powered while cranking which will drop the available amperage to the starter.
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  17. #17

    Default

    I traced the red/lg wire down...actually....I have another complete harness that I took out of a car. So I unraveled all the tape and loom...traced the wires. From the ignition switch, the brown/pink goes to nothing else. The red/lg leaves the ignition switch, goes down through the pork chop brace plug, down through the harness where it splits. One side comes back up to where I spliced it, the other end goes to power fuse 18. Which is the warning lights on the dash, seatbelt buzzers etc, that I'm not using anyhow. So I just removed the fuse. No power can backfeed to any other circuit now. The only way it can backfeed through the ignition switch, I think...is if I try to start it, while it's running..hope this makes sense...

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