Close



Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1
    Pace Car
    Guest

    Default T-top owners - installation of 'fuzzies'

    I am about to install the T-top beaded felt weatherstrip and have a question for those that have done it. This is the weatherstrip at the front and rear of the glass that when worn exposes the red/orange cord inside of it. The replacement is an adhesive backed strip with a build-up at the top. My question is, when adhering it, do/have you set it flush with the trim, slightly above or somewhere else. Of course, no instructions were included and there wasn't enough of my originals to help.

    Thanks, Bill

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member ttopmustangs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Lethbridge AB Canada
    Posts
    756

    Default

    flush with the trim if i remember right
    Current rides:
    1995 GT Vert
    1980 notch t top project
    2008 Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
    Past rides:
    1986 GT T Top , 1981 Cobra T Top
    1994 GT, 1982 GT T Top
    1986 GT X 2, 1984 GT T Top
    1991 calipso green vert,
    1979 Pace Car # 0076

  3. #3

    Default

    Try to stay flush with the trim. It is very tedious.
    `82 Mercury Capri 5.0 4.speed / not RS
    `86 Mercury Capri

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member 86fiveoh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    West chester PA
    Posts
    2,523

    Default

    set mine flush with the trim.

  5. #5
    Pace Car
    Guest

    Default

    The minimal instruction sheet says to use weatherstrip adhesive on the back side of the seal, even though it has 3M tape on the back. I wonder if this is a generic label included with all weatherstrip? I did buy them from our sponsor FMR.

    Bill

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member 86fiveoh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    West chester PA
    Posts
    2,523

    Default

    dont think mine had any adhesive seal, I had to use weatherstrip adhesive

  7. #7

    Default

    For everyone with a t-top, I thought I would post my success with changing the outer seal (the one with the red bead in it).

    I order the new seals (about $40.00 each). When they arrived I was a little disapointed that they were not like the factory ones.

    The factory ones surround the aluminum strip. The intent of the new ones are to be glued onto the aluminum strip.

    I spent 2 evening removing the old seals and all the gum.

    Glued the rear strip and a close buddy (an*l body man) criticized me for my approach.

    He pulled everything off!

    He drilled out all the rivents on the aluminum strip. And told me to clean it up and paint it. He said to trim the aluminum strip down equal to the bead (a little less than 1/4"). Paint ti black.

    Put the new sean BEHIND the strip and screw the strip in with 14 washer head screws.

    Worked like a charm. Looks factory and best bart is that if I ever have to change it, I pull 28 screws and change. No glue whatsoever.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member 86fiveoh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    West chester PA
    Posts
    2,523

    Default

    good tip!

  9. #9

    Default

    pics????
    Ausie, Aussie, Aussie
    Oi, Oi, Oi

    84 1C SVO "Blackie the Wonderbeater" (DECEASED!!!!)
    84 9L SVO T-TOP (under restoration)
    84 1C SVO T-TOP (Deceased)
    86 2R SVO (roller, future pro-tourer)

  10. #10
    Pace Car
    Guest

    Default

    Well, I've spent the morning going ahead with my install. I thought some pics would help those who haven't undertaken this task before:

    Here is what I started with. All moulding and weatherstripping has been removed. This all precipitated because the headliner needed to be replaced and it just steamrollered into doing everything.





    These are the front and rear moulding strips along with the center beam. I painted them with Duplicolour med. charcoal trim paint, and I must say it is a perfect match and the easiest paint to lay down I have ever used.



    Here is one of the mouldings with 3M 1/2" double sided tape installed on the back side. This copies the factory method from what I pulled off.



    The front and rear mouldings were then pop-riveted back onto to the body.



    Here is the beaded felt weatherstrip that seems to deteriorate so badly. It comes with the 3M adhesive tape already installed.



    Using advise from this posting, I installed the felt flush with the moulding, front and rear.



    I then put 2 strips of tape on the backside of the center beam (as per factory). This piece is held on by 5 sheetmetal screws from the underside - that is why the headliner needs to be removed for this job. With the new felt, it was very tight to install and crushed/rolled under the new felt at its ends. If I was to do it again, I might think about grinding it down a bit to get a snug fit but not deform the felt.





    Well I placed the T-tops in, and they are very tight. Inially I thought the felt should be placed down lower on the moulding so that the glass rested ontop of the felt, but I don't think this is what the factory was after. I think I will wait till I have the new glass and door seals installed, pop the glass in on a warm sunny day (or heat with a heat gun) and let them take there shape that way. I hope this helps anyone who might be thinking of performing this task. Any questions or comments, fire away.

    Bill

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member 83t-topp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    River John Nova Scotia canada
    Posts
    704

    Default

    thanks for all the pics.
    I need top replace mine some day when the restoration begins,
    ( life got in the way of previous plans) do you mind if I save your pics?
    I plan to remove as much as possible my self before I send thecar out for paint.
    mustang gt registry
    http://www.mustanggt.org/forums/inde...eferrerid=3400

    F irst
    O n
    R ace
    D ay

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member Blainer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Medicine Hat, Alberta,Canada
    Posts
    2,870

    Default

    I pop riveted mines as well as weatherstrip adhesive. This helps to keep the factory look and it help to hold the strip while the adhesive bonds.
    -Currently Searching for "The One"

  13. #13

    Default

    I just replaced the beaded felt in mine and the t-tops now fit VERY VERY VERY tight. It took a while , but I got them in there. Maybe they will crush/loosen up a bit as time goes by.
    '83 GT - 545 - C6 - 3.90 - it's alive!

  14. #14
    mfrancis84
    Guest

    Default

    I am looking to replace these weatherstripping this weekend. I do not see the pictures anymore in this post. Would you still have them to send to me.

  15. #15

    Default

    Great tips!! I've never had to redo mine but will chime in so I can at least have this to refer back to!

    Thanks again!

    SI
    Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.

    Have:

    '82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member Kerry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Cortland, OH
    Posts
    2,568

    Default

    was just doing a search to find info on this. going to have to replace all the weatherstrip on my t tops in the near future. seeing that it is rather involved has me thinking it will be a winter time job when i can just tear everything apart and take my time.
    Current: 81 Cobra T Top, 79 Cobra.
    Past Toys: 1964 Falcon Vert, 1966 Mustang(owned twice), 70 Conv, 1978 Mustang II(first car), 80 Cobra, 81 Cobra, 82 GT T-Top, 85 GT 3,900 miles, 85 Predator/Twister 5S-0149, 86 Saleen 177, 86 SVO, 86 Mustang GT, 86 Mustang GT Vert, 87 Mustang GT, 89 Mustang Notch, 2003 Mustang GT Roush Clone, 2006 Mustang V6(Stainless Works LT's, MBRP cat back, 3.73's, tb, cai), and my favorite 2002 Mustang GT MPH 302 stroker, KB 2.2, TKO 500 640rwhp/591torque.

  17. #17
    FEP Senior Member edman1000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    790

    Default

    Would love to see those pics reposted.....please?
    - Ed

    '85 Capri RS - "1BADMERC" -'00 GT40P motor & heads, Edelbrock RPM/Holley 650, E303 cam, full length BBK ceramics,5spd/flowmaster 2-chambers/373's
    5 Lug conversion, cobra discs on all four corners, 1" drop

    My cowl hood thread:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=131334

  18. #18

    Default

    Found some good info here. I attempted to install the felt weatherstripping to my front and rear trim pieces yesterday. No luck whatsoever. The replacement pieces are straight but the trim have a slight arch to them. I could not get the felts to go on the trim without them coming loose or undone in others points of the stripping. How are you supposed to lay down the felts to be straight on the top edge of the trim? The ends always pop off. Seems as if there should have been relief points integrated into the new seals, but there is not. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

  19. #19
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    The only way I have been able to install the felt well is adding some relief cuts (small triangular cuts on the bottom of the felt). I generally start the felt and add a cut right where the felt needs to curve slightly and then continue on until the next spot. If you make a single cut hold the felt in place and see how it overlaps you can often cut one side to match the straight cut or you might have to cut both sides to match up perfectly. If don't well, there will be no space in the felt at the cut points. Take your time and always cut just a sliver each time so you don't over cut. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •