1980 2.3t mustang project

[Sasquatch]

thats not going to be fun to put back together... It does falter a bit at high revs/full throttle once the boost hits 3psi, but if I back the throttle off just a little bit it runs like a champ. and I also just pulled the choke assembly off because it wasnt doing anything at all anyways, and today I plan to track down the leak and fix it. I think it might just be a loose screw though...

BTW Neil, I really wish I could find a way to get to 4IBBQ this year, as it falls on my birthday!

[WHTLTHR79RS]

Your not that far away, just let me know. Don't be loosing any parts from the car or carb...just can't get them anymore.

[Sasquatch]

I cant find the location on your site, the links aren't working..
And I have made sure to save everything that I got with the car/have taken off.

[WHTLTHR79RS]

Try holding down your left "control" key when you ckick on the big red link

[Sasquatch]

the link here works, but none on the site do.
It's alright though, I found your address on the 2007 BBQ forum. google maps gave me step by step directions from my door to yours XD travel time between 7 and 9 hours, which is not too bad IMO...
I know a couple fours-eyes in Slammin arm here, so I'll try to convince them to consider the BBQ. My neighbour even has a 2-door fairmont 4eye on propane...

[Sasquatch]

okay so it seems that google chrome doesnt like your site, but internet explorer does? weeird

[Mad Max]

Madmax, let me know if you buy the car.

Neil

If you want it more than me then I wont stop you. You seem to know more about the carb turbos than me.

I have a bunch of GT and suspention parts and the need a car to go on. Kinda wanted another 2.3T

[WHTLTHR79RS]

I am in no position to buy any more 4-eye cars, in fact, I have one that will be going to it's new owner in a few days. Not to worry guys, it has only been pictured here once and I still get to do the upkeep on it for the gal.

[Sasquatch]

soo got her insured today, new +/- cables all in 0 gauge wire, all leaks tidied up, diesoline all burned off, and she runs like a charm!
but I either have a shot U-joint or loose pinion in the rearend.
She will also need shocks/springs all around, I took a peek at them today, and I think they may be the originals!
And she has earned the right to a nickname; Patches.

[Sasquatch]

ok so I think I may have to pull off the turbo and look into doing the seals, I think it may be burning some oil
but that would give me an excellent opportunity to open up my intake runners, because they seem wayy too constricted to me, hopefully I dont screw anything up...

[gr79]

ok so I think I may have to pull off the turbo and look into doing the seals, I think it may be burning some oil
but that would give me an excellent opportunity to open up my intake runners, because they seem wayy too constricted to me, hopefully I dont screw anything up...

Friendly advice:
Don't mess with that stuff unless you are absolutely sure you know exactly what needs to be done.
Manifold= won't notice any difference on a stock motor, may run worse= waste of time.
turbocharger seals= let the pros do it.

Please, if you take the turbo off, make sure to scribe it exactly like it is before dissassembly, else SNAP.
This will ruin your days like you wouldn't believe. Car will be un drivable.
I had a spare flange, you don't.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/album.ph...ictureid=12514

Was reinstalling turbo without closely re-checking both housings clockings after rebuild by shop.
When shop put turbocharger back together, housings were clocked incorrectly.
I wrongly assumed they were correct. It is fine now, no oil leaks.
Removing that thing a half dozen times to get it exactly right is hard on legs, back, etc.
I say drive the bitch. May be all she needs. Let her drink that extra quart or three for now.

[gr79]

If engine burns oil, say a quart every 500 mil..oops, Canada..liter/km
Check valve seals, guides, compression, gasket leaks first.
Unless you are fogging up the road behind with a smoke screen, its fine.
Newer engine designs use a lot less than the engines back then.
A little oil always seems to get past even new turbo seals.
Normal back then (US) was around one qt or less per 1000 miles .

[WHTLTHR79RS]

I agree with GR79, it's better to let a pro do the turbo rebuild. we sent ours down to florida to Evergreen Turbo, owner is Charlie, perfect job, great guy.

[Sasquatch]

My dad has a shop he sends all his diesel turbos to, so I was planning on getting a quote from them first, and I have taken note of your turbo issues gr79, I am going to be VERY careful when I work with that thing :P
I'm glad the oil-burning is normal though, my dad was going all doom-sayer and pointing out that my turbo is completely toast, because it smokes a bit of white on startup and under heavy throttle.
As for porting the intake, I mostly just want to smooth up the uglyass casting between the turbo and carb.
I may pull the head off and do gaskets, studs, and valve seals all in one shot just to make sure the top end is good.
My only issue is that I can't have the car off the road for more than a day unless I take time off of work
But this weekend I do the driveshaft u-joints, and maybe a new crossover pipe from the manifold to the turbo

[WHTLTHR79RS]

Remember that the factory limit on boost for this car was 6 pounds, with ALL of the controls working, including timing retard. This was Ford's first try at turbocharging, and the SVO motor was FAR better due to electronics, pistons, controls, ect.

[Sasquatch]

yup yup, and yesterday I had the green turbo light turn on a couple times
but then it stopped working again, I am going to have fuuuuun rewiring the dash and console, ill try to post some pics of the wonderful connections the old owner tried to use on it...SHUDDER
I don't want to bump the boost up more than 7psi, if I bring it up at all, but I just want that whistle before 2800rpm :P
I plan to get a boost gauge plumbed in this weekend, and either get the manifold welded back up or replaced with a tubular ranger one, and maybe wrapped as well.
Also, does anybody have any suggestions for an oil cooler to plumb in-line on the turbo feed line? if it will interfere too much with pressure and such...
I was thinking that since the AC isn't connected, the original lines and condensor could be utilised XD
JK that would be facking silly, but I would like to cool the oil off en-route to the snail

[WHTLTHR79RS]

4 rules with turbo cars...use great oil that can stand the heat; allow at least 2 minutes warm up time on cold start before driving to allow the oil to warm up and flow correctly; when you get close to your destination, drive easy with no boost and allow a minute at idle to cool everything off; and change oil often. With the flat tappets, I would also run a product called "Cam Shield"

[Sasquatch]

whats the reccomended weight for my car?
I have been idling the car for cooldown every time yay me
also, where can I obtain this "cam shield"?

on a side note, my love of the sound a turbo makes has so far resulted in depressing fuel mileage :P

[WHTLTHR79RS]

A 10/40 oil is fine, but add the Cam Shield...
Go here for starters:

http://www.cam-shield.com/

[Sasquatch]

are there any similar additives from larger brands such as gunk or lucas or kleen flo? because I have a feeling that stuff is going to be hard to find locally

[gr79]

Crossover-make sure the new pipe is free of slag, etc. Or else: by-by turbo.
The Ranger header fits fine, but your cyl head prob has egr holes too.
There will be a slight exhaust leak, since the ranger header uncovers these 4 little holes. Improvise.
With the ranger header, a custom crossover pipe will need to be fabbed. No big deal.

Oil-Owner manual recommends 10w30. Have had no problems in 300,000 miles of turbo ownership, relating to oil and the turbo.
No additional oil cooler. Guess it wouldn't hurt though.
WHTLTHR79RS is right on describing the start up/shutdown routine.
Its Valvoline/FL1a for me, 5k o/c intervals, semi-syn or syn, top offs are reg 10w30. Magnetic drain plug too.
Thick weight oil may result in 80# + cold oil pressure.
This is hard on the dist. roll pin. Snap that, and the engine stops.

Additive-Good ol STP oil treatment has some zinc. I just use good oil.
Some motor oils have more zinc whatever than others, mostly diesel truck oil.

Smoke-This engine also blows that smoke on hard accell. We used to call it 'blowing out the carbon'.
Excess fuel burning off i suppose. Only does it occasionally during normal driving then quits.
Drivers behind the car curse this event. Oh well..

Dashwize, the green turbo light is connected to the vac pot array on the fender apron.
Check connections if intermittent. Can also be lit with a Mity-Vac testor.
A green bulb will restore the nice deep green to a faded dash turbo light insert, as will red bulbs to the other ones.

[WHTLTHR79RS]

It's midnight, and I got a car show to go to tomorrow, but let's talk zinc for a while. Most bottles of motor oil have a 1-800 number on them, call them and ask for the amount of zinc in their oil....most will be 800 PPM as mandated by federal law to extend the life of catalytic converters to around 250,000 miles...you see, the zinc in the oil kills the cat. For flat tappets, you NEED 1200 PPM of zinc in your oil, as it is a "sacrificial wearing element" and by allowing it's self to be used up, it protects the cam lobes. Zinc does not work at all by it's self...it need phosphorus at about 900 PPM to make the zinc work. The Ph makes the zinc molecules "stand up to be knocked down" by the friction of rubbing lobe against the rocker. Get the ratio of Z to PH wrong and it don't work. Most bottles of oil are about 65% oil and 35% additives and cleaners...when you ad a quart of additive for the zinc, you mess up the important, orginal ratio of oil to additives, so don't do that. Cam Shield is added at a quarter ounce per quart so no acrew up on the ratios. Diesel oils DO have more zinc, but they also have the wrong amount of detergents to work well on gasoline fueled engines. It has to do with the width of the bearing surface vs. the diameter of the bearings on diesel engines, or something like that. There is a HUGE thread on zinc additives on ( I think ) the "Chevelle Forums" but you will be reading for a week or more. One more thing to think about, the valve train on the 2.3 is a "variable geometry" set up, not a fixed ration like the 5.0.
some reading for you:
http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/Technical.html

http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/diesel.html

I am not a reseller of this product, I just use it..
Night Now.

[Sasquatch]

The Ranger header fits fine, but your cyl head prob has egr holes too.
There will be a slight exhaust leak, since the ranger header uncovers these 4 little holes. Improvise.

Haha I can't avoid improvising, really, as most of what I do from here on in is going to be "outside the box"

and the slag in the crossover, weeellll I am actually thinking the crossover is going to come off this weekend just to make sure it is clear, theres a patched in pipe that looks like it was welded in with bubble gum, UGLY weld to say the least

I have also yet to show you the "wiring" work done by previous owners, not a single butt-connector was used, just twist-em and tape-em. This incident was not designated to just one small area either, it was done on 50% of the visible wires...

My dash inserts are all nicely colored, no fading

The tach, check engine light, E-brake light, and belt light are all connected in their intermittance, so I think it may just be a shoddy ground

I will check into that cam additive soonly as well, a quick inspection of the cam shows minimal wear overall, but I may have the local shop grind me up a custom one, he loves experimenting with them.

He actually made a wicked grind for my dads 460 shop truck, it now has the rpm range of a diesel, and pulls like a MONSTER from about 500rpm up, running on propane. Reasoning for the low rev range (3000rpm limit) is because one of the mechanics tends to rev the piss out of vehicles, so it was the safe way to go money-wise.

[WHTLTHR79RS]

The diameter of the "base circle" of the 2.3 cam is 1.188 to 1.189 inches with a lobe lift of .244 inch, giving a valve lift of .400". maximum lobe lift loss is .005". MOST cam grinders will grind this cam with the base circle a hundred thousandths under size, that will give you problems trying to set the rocker geometery correctly to achieve .035 to .055" at the rocker with the HLA collapsed....IF you need to shim the HLA to get your specs, you need to split the difference between raising the HLA and a longer valve stem....if you are going to grind more lift, darn well better set your geometery and clay up the piston to valve. I don't see this being done in a day.

[Sasquatch]

sounds like a loot of work then :O
I guess I'll just stick to what I have got for the time being
Thank you guys for all of your helpful knowledge!
I would be like a lost puppy without this site, and I think I may be bringing a couple mini-kegs of glorious Canadian beer to the BBQ if I go, to show my gratitude