Question on changing struts out

[Bailey28]

On my '86, I planned on changing the struts out when I did the brake upgrade to the 87-93 rotors and spindles.

If I place a jack under the front control arm then unbolt the strut from the spindle, can I release the jack from under the control arm to get the old spindle off of the control arm or will the spring shoot out under pressure?

I wanted to replace the front springs, but after reading what a pain in the arse it seems to be, I'd rather just not. I actually have new springs here but not lowering ones, they are new stock long ones.

Also, how hard would it be to replace the struts? Can I just unbolt them from the spindle, then unbolt them from the top of the strut tower in the car?

Sorry for the newbie questions, I am better at drivetrain stuff than suspension stuff.

[qtrracer]

Leave the jack or a jack stand under the a-arm to carry the weight and spring energy while disconnecting the strut from the spindle. This will prevent a loose spring condition which can be very dangerous. The most difficulty will be removing the top strut nut from the strut, the spindle from the ball joint and the outer tie-rod end from the spindle. For the latter two, use the correct tools not a BFH and/or a pickle fork - I ruined parts trying it that way. On the former, use an impact gun. Before I had air-tools, I went to the local garage and asked them if they'd use their air tool to loosen the nuts. That worked well and didn't cause a problem for the short ride back home. Good luck.

[DadBox]

And loosen the top strut nut before you take it loose from the spindle. For some reason that seems to help it come off, but you definitely want an impact gun for that.

[wythors]

Changing springs isn't very difficult at all if you spend fifteen bucks for this tool. I just did it myself two weeks ago and was surprised at how easily it went with this simple tool.

[mcb82gt]

And loosen the top strut nut before you take it loose from the spindle. For some reason that seems to help it come off, but you definitely want an impact gun for that.

Use a impact on it, while the suspension is sitting fully loaded on the ground, just loosen it.

Then you can jack the car up and do the rest, like already posted.

[PaulFORD8]

I did both struts and springs over the winter while doing an 87-93 brake upgrade myself. I put jack stands under the front cross member, and put a jack under the control arm I was working on.

I took mine out with the top nut intact as I was unable to get it to move. I ended up getting it off pretty easy on the floor. Didnt have the correct tool so I heated the nut up a bit, laid it over on the floor, slide a "wonder bar" into the slot on the top of the strut, and pulled the nut with a box end wrench. Had to tap it with with a hammer to get it loose but it came off.

I 2nd the springs. I have done a couple vehicles and it wasnt that hard either time. The compressor that goes inside the coil makes it easy, I used the Oh Reilly loan a tool one.

[mcbain]

I did not know to loosen the nut on the top of the strut, before I completely disassembled the front suspension. As others stated, one cannot hold the strut with a screwdriver or other flat blade while loosening the nut. Simply using an impact wrench to loosen the nut worked great. Don't need to hold anything else. Impact wrench will take off that nut even if the car is up in the air.

[gr79]

Loosening the top nut probably relieves any binding up of the strut lower fasteners.
For extra safety, wrap a cargo strap in and around spring's coils several times after it is compressed.

Impact gun is the quick way to loosen and tighten top strut nut and lower fasteners.
If no air tools, pay a local shop to loosen top nut only and drive home slowly.
Lowers can be done by hand with huge effort. Those are like 150-180# torque.

An impact spins the strut rod, but does the job.
No issue removing top nut on old strut. Blast away.
I worried about the spinning strut rod damaging seals in the new strut.
Quick blips, low torque setting. Happens quickly, minimal spin of rod.
Impact tool worked super after fighting too long with hand tools and no success.
Do not over torque strut rod nut. Tight is tight. Hard to check 50-75 final torque on it.
Did mine in 2001. No issues since.

Doing top nut by hand, with special tools, is the shop manual way. Impact is the shop way.
If by hand, trick is to hold the strut rod someway to remove the top nut.
Read others use trick tools like modded spark plug sockets.
Vice grips with weatherstripping to protect rod. Could never get vice grip tight enough.
That is when i found out shops do not play around and only use an impact gun to do struts.

[erratic50]

Safest way I know of is:

Jack the car up
Put it on jackstands. One in the center of the K-member along with one each side towards the front of the subframe connectors is what worked for me.
remove the wheels/tires
measure resting camber with a gauge each side at full droop, record for later
Get a race from a balljoint press kit that just fits the circular opening at the botton of the A-arm.
take apart a coil compressor
put the j-hooks up towards the top of the spring where you'll need them
Put the race in the A-arm and run the compressor bolt up through the race
thread the bolt into the J-hook and tighten it down until there is no longer any pressure other the an A-arm weight on the strut
Put a jack under the A-arm to help keep the coil in the upper pocket and hold this weight
Rig some strong wire towards the front so you have something to hold the spindle and caliper and rotor assembly up and out of the way
Remove the spindle bolts and spindle, hang it.
clamp the upper strut with a visegrip
run an impact on the strut bolt to free it from the upper mount
pull the strut
swap over bump stops and strut boots
put in new strut, re-install nut on upper but do not tighten
re-install strut bolts and nuts
with upward prying force on the end of the spindle, put negative camber pre-load the spindle at the strut
tighten up the strut bolts
measure camber and adjust so its close as needed
move the jack under the A-arm out of the way
loosen the spring compressor
double-check camber, find tune with prybar at spindle or move upper mount
remove compressor
re-install wheels/tires
remove stands
torque wheels
have car re-aligned
retorque wheels and install caps