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  1. #401

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    Son took a couple quick shots on Saturday to celebrate the drive.




    Next free garage time will be aggressively studying the vacuum setup to get it 100% and start tuning for smog testing. Goodguys show coming up in March!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  2. #402

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    Son took a couple quick shots on Saturday to celebrate the drive
    Nice!
    I would love to see some shots of the Calloway GTI. I had a 80 Rabbit with a GTI 1.8 with dual side drafts back in my collage years.
    It was replaced with my 85 GT.
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  3. #403

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    Nice JK I had a 79 Rabbit in HS, then a 84 Gti in College. Worked on Mk1's and Mk2's with friends and as flip cars to help pay for college. Lots of memories so about 4 years ago i picked this up.
    Callaway Rabbit Gti- 52K original miles on the car and super clean. Modified everywhere Callaway Turbo kit, Zender, Recaro, Nakamichi, Rockford Fosgate, Koni, etc. (a bit much but it's unique!). I have acquired almost all original VW NOS or excellent parts used to bring it back to 100% stock in the future if I want. Apparently I have a thing for 80's cars with flares and turbos! I like the idea of Radwood so plan to participate in that with both the GTI and the M81.




    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-21-2019 at 10:09 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  4. #404

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    That is one sweet GTI!
    My Dad worked at a VW dealership so I had a lot of GTi take-offs on mine, Wheels, flares, front air dam and euro bumpers.
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  5. #405

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    Ok to get back on topic and not steal more time from another thread, there a separate thread started by GregPro5.0 during his 2.3 rebuild here that has helped me tremendously begin to understand the vacuum line setup on the early 2.3 cars. With everyone's help (thanks GR79, XTasy and GregPro50 and Red '7 we have deduced with my dual SOL V (Solenoid vacuum setup) that the correct vacuum setup for my car is likely one of 3 diagrams on Red's site http://myzephyrs.com. It's either #40, 41 or 42 of 107 and looks much like this:

    The correct Emissions Sticker as confirmed on M81#10 on Bring a Trailer pictures is E0ZE-9C485-JB then BZW


    So upon investigation my current setup for the vacuum SPK RET unit on my fender goes to what I believe is the Emissions Diverter Valve (AIR BPV on the vacuum diagram?) behine the smog pump and I believe incorrect per the diagram as it should go to RNR1. The rubber line looks like an exact match to what the broken RNR1 line looks like. This is problem #1 to change and test!



    There is also a small tee in the line by my finger that has a clear plastic tube going through the firewall which I assume is for the boost gauge. This was quite loose and might explain why my boost gauge does not register (or maybe also because of the incorrect routing to the diverter valve). Will test this after the reroute to RNR1 to see if the boost gauge works again.
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-17-2019 at 06:47 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  6. #406
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    That is what my boost gauge line looks like. Came in gauge kit with brass fittings. Milky white.
    30+ years takes its toll on vac lines, plastic connectors, components. If brittle (no flex), time for new.
    Has to be tight, no leaks. Does not matter if connected to RNR #4 or #1.

    I inserted the nylon line into a short piece of rubber vac hose, to #4 RNR tube.
    Went this way instead of using brass fittings for the sake of simplicity.
    Did add a brass compression ferrule (from the gauge install kit) to the end of the nylon tubing.
    This helps it seal and stay in the hose real well.
    Attachment 125952

  7. #407

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    Thank you for confirming GR. So now I hooked my SPK RET directly up to RNR1. I fixed the connection for the nylon boost gauge that T's in here. The gauge now works at idle it reads but reads about 16 at idle and then lowers to around 8 when I blip the throttle. I assume this is a vacuum reading and when I get on the road and get under boost it will read positive 8-15 PSI is that how it works? Small step forward!
    Idle


    Throttle Blip
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-18-2019 at 10:29 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  8. #408

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    Well a quick google search and I'll answer my own question...
    PSI = Pounds per square inch. That is a standard issue of measurement for any pressure gauge that uses SAE (standard American English) measurements.
    in/hg (inches of mercury) = The standard issue of measurement for vacuum gauges. This refers to the air pressure below ambient pressure.

    Both measurements are levels relative to atmospheric pressure, so when the gauge reads 15 psi, the air pressure inside of the manifold is 15 psi above atmospheric levels. When it reads 15 in/hg, then it's reading 15 inches of mercury below ambient air pressure.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  9. #409
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    That is how the gauge works. Very important that it works again.
    A monitor showing the current tune of engine and how it is operating under various conditions.

    Boost, needle swings left of '0' area, regular driving, needle down and right of '0' area.
    14" is low for idle even if idle is high. Vac leak or more tuning needed to get it higher.
    A higher reading would be better for smog test. Go for 17", or higher when warm.
    8 or so is normal blip figure.
    Now to see where it goes when driving.

    But that is what is to be worked on sorting the vac connections and tuning.
    Gauge will monitor changes affecting idle vac up or down.

    Boost should be 7# psi on yours as i recall.
    Anything over 10# is not good. Way too much for the 'high' compression 2.3T carb version head gasket.
    EFI turbos have lower compression and can run into the teens.
    Unless you have EFI pistons in it. Then its monitor the AFR time.
    Last edited by gr79; 01-18-2019 at 03:23 PM.

  10. #410

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    Thanks for the feedback GR very helpful to know the targets for a baseline. I've still got work to do this weekend to identify the component name in the diagrams by visual in order to correct the vacuum lines back to stock like the secondary air horn. It's also possible even if I get all the lines correct that a component is no longer functioning but that's for another day once I get it all right!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-18-2019 at 10:31 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  11. #411
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Took a bit of experimenting to get mine right after removing most of the hoses, then needing to reinstall a few.
    Am reinstalling cold weather items. Heat riser and those colored air cleaner sensors that control the heat door.
    Just for the cold winter weather here, making sure of no carb icing.

    Odd thing is the way some of the vac lines actually let bits of un metered air into the engine, other than thru the carb.
    Balanced just enough so as not to stall, but helping engine idle or something. One is the carb secondary connection.

    Those carbs have tiny passages that get dirty inside. Maybe from fuel residue. Need cleaning every few years.
    Last time had it cleaned ultrasonically.
    Can tell when turning idle mix screw all the way in and engine does not stall. Like now on mine. Its due. Old plugs too.
    Runs fine, though has dropped from 24-25 mpg to 17-20. Window sticker does say 18, so not worried.
    The shop manual has the cleaning procedure. It is a specific sequence to spray cleaner into certain holes/passages.

  12. #412
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Awesome to see shots of such a rare four eyed fox on the road! Congratulations!

    There is a guy around Omaha NE that runs a business called “scratch away”. He focused on minimalistic paint/body repairs where he would use air brush and touchup sprayer base techniques to repair damage while blending paint color with original and making it basically disappear into the panel.

    Saw some really amazing before/after work from him and took my Mercury Mountaineer to him after my wife lightly crash tested it and messed up the front fender near the headlight as well as the front bumper.

    Someone with those type of skills and some time could eliminate the flaws while not messing with the originality of the rest of your car and really make it a show favorite. Just a thought.....

    cant find the before but here’s the after. To the naked eye it was impossible to tell anything had been done. I can’t find my straight on picture of the front right now ..... will have to look some more. It was MESSED up — split bumper cover and pushed in fender with a crumple, etc. I watched him do much of the work and it did not get repainted anywhere except where the pain had fallen off from the damage, everything else was just an old fashioned mastery of blending


    facebook page : https://m.facebook.com/pages/categor...2339328182529/

    Would make such a difference in such a beautiful car
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by erratic50; 01-18-2019 at 05:26 PM.

  13. #413

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    I'll be tracing and comparing system by system as best I can. Much appears correct but some clearly not. Still trying to confirm what this is


    Erratic thanks I've thought some about how best to move forward on the body once the mechanicals are done. I prefer original with some love marks over perfection because it tells a story. The marks on my car are from the PO including the hood flying back and damaging the cowl at a windy car show. My car on close inspection really needs more than spot repair and blending especially the cracking along the 1/4 panel flare bonding and nose but it's worth a few opinions from experts. Appreciate the comments!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  14. #414
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Have had my hood caught by wind on driveway too. No damage.
    Was under it working in the turbo area. Got 'alligatored' by the hood. Is heavy lifting from back there.
    Started using a bungee to safe the hood prop with tension until gas hood struts were installed.
    Hood pins are also installed. Once a hood flies up (driving my 67) one never forgets that.
    Scariest part is when hitting 50 on xway and noticing hood is stopped by the catch (my Ranger, several times, no pins).

  15. #415

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    Found two loose vacuum connections between the SOLV and the throttle solenoid positioner (VOTM!) and the SOLV and MAN PLNM and fixed those. I will replace those with the original style green and red plastic lines when I find them per Stormin Normin's post.

    The LEFT SOLV upper pair go to the VOTM and the lower pair splits with one going to the A/CL CWW and the other to the MAN PLNM pair.



    At that MAN PLNM pair the other one routes to/from a unit I need to identify next to the AIR BPV. If that's the TVS then the routing is incorrect. More studying to do here.


    I also found the RT side SOLV (Air con related per GR) has no vacuum connected at all (appears to have a single port currently open to air). Looks like it is supposed to go to a split just before the TVS per the VECI diagram.


    With the few fixes made so far to the spark retard routing and line fixes today I will run a new test tomorrow and see if any changes have occurred. Maybe my high warm idle will be fixed. I'm feeling more confident in tracing, testing, and adjusting (mixture, timing etc.) thanks to you all here sharing knowledge, my carb guy confirming a few things, and my just investing time with lots of reading and learning.
    Happy Friday!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-25-2019 at 09:35 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  16. #416
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    It is a long learning experience. Few are out there that can fix this stuff. Imagine the cost...
    We are the main techs on our cars. Marking helped at the time, but later everything seems to have tangled up.
    How most all that works and what-does-what remains a mystery to me and most others too.
    Learning the details and at the same time trying to grasp the whole picture.
    Had to be easier for the engineers who worked with this everyday. Reverse engineering this is challenging.
    It's almost as complicated as pc networking or wiring with all the terms and special parts.
    Am enjoying the step by step journey. Lots of extra free time, it being so cold outside here.

  17. #417
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    It is a long learning experience. Few are out there that can fix this stuff. Imagine the cost...
    We are the main techs on our cars. Marking helped at the time, but later everything seems to have tangled up.
    How most all that works and what-does-what remains a mystery to me and most others too.
    Learning the details and at the same time trying to grasp the whole picture.
    Had to be easier for the engineers who worked with this everyday. Reverse engineering this is challenging.
    It's almost as complicated as pc networking or wiring with all the terms and special parts.
    Am enjoying the step by step journey. Lots of extra free time, it being so cold outside here.
    gr79, I agree with this.

    But especially this:

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Learning the details and at the same time trying to grasp the whole picture.
    After the complexity of this and the efforts by the OP, I can see why most people just ask the question "What can I remove for vacuum lines...." on their V8 swap. But, what you say above is true. While I wished I hadn't been away from cars and tech for so long and now playing catch up with factory set ups and more, I am enjoying this and other's sagas to understand this.

    Some inquiring minds need to know and understand. I have saved Red78's information for future

    Keep up the hard work and drive to understand!

  18. #418
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Props to you.

    I love this photo. As a Kiwi, I love the McLaren part to a car which was my favorite anyway...




    I think Ford really knew what they were doing here on the VECI side of things. Follow the basics. gr79 and Red'78 and a lot of others have really been helpful.

    I sure don't like arm loads of manual reviews required to get a definitive answer on what goes where, and the fact that no one is a champion of the M81 engine.

    I don't like a 4 speed car that never had a limited slip axle, couldn't break 100 mph, yet the stock one could do 110.

    That's all because it was just a "homologation" special, and things were so difficult just with the emission compliance, and the EPA had already forced Ford to shut down San Jose plant, so even 10 M81's, well, that's a blessing to be sure.


    I just wish when all hooked up, for the stress, heartache and back pain, that the Labyrinth of hoses and circuits would yield an Aston Martin V8 Vantage like 14 second quarter mile and 168 mph top speed, because with those 255 by 60 15 inch 1977 Aston Martin Vantage style tires, its the most killer Mustang ever. Everything about it is just surreal.

    Its actually, in my eyes, more a Super Car looking machine than the 1977 AMV8 Vantage,

    the car Jeremy Sineak at UK Motor magazine, blew up the 8.5" Dana axle on popping off 0-100 mph in 12.8 seconds at MIRA. It was a 390 hp car with about 4000 pounds to drag around, and it was down on power for the road test.

    I think 230 hp of 2.3 turbo with 2700 pounds was what would have made the m81 its matchmate. It lookes just as killer as the AM.



    which was in every way, a 1968 Mustang knockoff. Before it got crazy with the P7's and flared gaurds.....

    I loved the M81 as a kid, but all the reports claimed it was withdrawn


    In a 2700 pound car, it would have done that back in 1981, if all the good bits, like the either a better 2305 500 cfm 2-bbl Holley, or better still, a proper upstream V8 CFi unit, and extra boost with maybee some Water and Methanol injection was used. There was the T5 gearbox that next year in 4 speed form in the 3.3 Mustang. There were planned Limited Slip axles, and probably the Granada rear disk brakes. And some better covering off of the emissions stuff. That horsepower screw is just epic. It needs its neck ringed....

    It just needed some Porsche 924 GTS style extra fortified parts.

    But who cares it looks sensational and has the capability of being just awesome with 10 pounds of boost and a T5 5 speed.

    Bruce Mc would have been proud...

    The M81 sure is the most enigmatic device around.

    The A/C routing vac priority for a 49 stater will most likely be the same as the CA version, but work on the basic idea that three of the five knobs are adjustable, and have fun doing minimum making sure the twin SOL V set up at least does something for the VOTM.

  19. #419

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    Thanks X really enjoy the support here & hope to have this road worthy for some fun and shows this spring. I love that pic too as it has a little bit of a Mad Max vibe! You would have loved the 1982 Motorsports cars and the Blue Enduro as they were prior M81's tarted up with V8's. I've seen a few M81 DSO/kit Mustangs and Capris sell on-line for value money which would have been fun to swap an SVO turbo or current EcoBoost 4 into. The thought has crossed my mind a few times during this labor of love but really wanted to keep it as original as possible. Had my block been bad however...
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  20. #420
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Henry Ford II had made the decision to abandon Cleveland 335 production in Australia, made as it was with exported USA tooling. The edict was that 1982 would be the last year of Australian made 302 and 351 Clevelands, and the 335 351M and 400 Ford V8's.

    Those engines, with a 4180c 4-bbl 600 or 750 cfm carb would have made the emissions and made any M81 Mustang a factory 260 hp car.

    I won't post the article here, but for three years from 1980 to 1983, the Phase Autos Phase 5 and 6 GTHO Falcon's ran Holley 4165/4175 spread-bore carbs, headers, optional Doug Nash Five speeds. 260 hp, 15 second 1/4 miles in a modified XE Falcon.


    The car just missed factory endorsement because FoMoCo everywhere else except Australia were struggling.

    Right about the time they killed the 302/351/400 335 series engine it in Australia and the USA, the Yates A3 aluminum heads came out, and that would have been the engine to inject. But Ford had a raft of other issues....like porly structured plants, cost price issues, and survival.


    HFII then had to deal with the red tape and inflation of the 1980 area...a simply awful time for the US side of the business. Insubordination got Lee I fired just before the Mustang Fox hit the streets.

    The turbo 2.3 was essentially frozen while Ford pumped extra money into the CFi 5 liter. The 1982 2 and 1983 4-bbl were hop ups using existing 1979-1980 F250 and F600/700 truck V8 parts.

    The really strong 5.8's for 1980 in the Panther were just accidental, the 5.0 GT was really where Ford wanted to go.

    Your existing 2.3 carb turbo can take 93 octane, so you won't destroy it. Or you can run 87 octane with a small twin point 45 psi Water and Meth Anti Detonation Injection system. Two 16 thou holes from a regular windscreen washer jet with the right lock offs works fine, and is undectable to most. Edlebrock Varajet and Spearco used them in the mid 70's. Aquamist and Snows Performance carry on the tradition today. David Vizard, Ak Miller and Racer Walsh did so in the mid 70's to late 70's turbo Pinto engines.

    Even Saab added water injection to create the extra 25 hp of the 170 hp Super Turbo 900 in 1979.




    Quote Originally Posted by http://c900se.pjgh.co.uk/
    First shown at the Geneva International Motor Show in 1979 SAAB introduced their latest concept car - the Super Turbo.



    Based on the three door SAAB 900 Turbo, the concept combined the production 145 BHP turbo engine with the 250 BHP rally counterpart to raise power to 170 BHP with 267 lb ft of torque through high pressure turbocharging and water injection at full boost to cool the pistons and cylinder head by around 212 degrees F which guarded against pre-detonation. Secured with sensor to prevent the increased power in the event that the one gallon reservoir emptied, that amount was deemed sufficient for over 2000 miles of motoring.

    The basic parts of the M81 were all sound.

    The limiting parts have always been that


    1. you can never, ever run a turbo carb out of fuel under load, or it will destroy something. Fords 2.3 turbo relied on there not being any skulduggery with the VECI lines. So if the vacuum lines leak, or something is not 100% factory and malfunctions, its toast. The conrod failures, slider cam wear, turbo warranty and other persistent reliability issues with carb turbos were compounded by the down stream intermediate cat for 1980, cracking exhaust manifold, low octane gas.

    So the problems were then
    1. the fact that everything had to be set up to pass FoMoCo powertrain and then Federal and California smog tests.

    2. the octane rating for a 9:1 compression engine with 6 to potentially 9 psi of boost. F85 style Jet Fire Turbo fluid (Anti Detonation Injection) is the solution
    3. a very restrictive exhaust system was put in place to use stock cat parts, which massively strangled power and mid range torque
    4. The stock 2-bbl carb is only 227 to 230 cfm at its normal 4 cylinder airflow rating and that means 175 hp is about it with the boost knob turned up.
    5. the risk of running a diaphragm fuel pumped engine out of fuel at any more than 9 pounds of boost exists.

    It can be easily modified to supply well over 230 hp of fuel if you enlarge the venturis and there's plenty of zinc oxide in the carb to wind and grind it out to 31 and 30 mm from 27 and 26 mm.

    Nothing needs to change in the VECI to do that.

    All doable with a SVO era exhaust.

    Hang in there with the machine.

  21. #421

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    Back on my vacuum line tracing with the final correct VECI diagram 0-2E-R0 (49 state, Turbo, M/T). Now on the correct path!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  22. #422

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    Wideband is in and AFR's under full throttle after some tweaking to the the primary mixture as well as the timing (now 12 BTC) are between 13.7-15.5 and it's pulling well! It's still reading on the high/lean side so need to continue to drive and adjust over the next couple of days until I get solid, repeatable numbers in the 12-14's. Under hard throttle it's def pulling timing so I believe the SPK RET and distributor Are doing the job. I also still have some vacuum lines to work out with the SOLV, anti BF, the missing TVS on the air-cleaner cover, and the EGR to CWM. I was able to adjust the idle on the TSP/VOTM down from 1,900 all the way to the stop so now idling around 1,150 RPMs. More to do on that to get curb idle to the 850 the smog man will require.

    I'm disappointed that I am not getting AFR readings at idle and lower RPM's so need investigate that. AEM suggests that I likely have an exhaust leak but since I just had the muffler shop add the bung to just before the catalytic converter and didn't hear any exhaust leaks then or now I am suspect. Maybe a weak power or ground? I have another AEM on my Rabbit so I may do some parts swapping and see if I get a different result or wire direct to battery and test again.

    Filter is doing it’s job. Will put a new one in and see if I can get the last bits out.

    Anyways, 25+ miles on it today without a hiccup so I'll call that good progress with more to come!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 02-02-2019 at 01:23 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  23. #423
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Nice!. Great work!

    0-2E-R0 is basically the same as 0-01H-R10 in http://myzephyrs.com/VAC_2.3/full/0-01H-R10%201980.jpg

    The manual adjust will bring the curb idle down to if you follow the process in your 1980 book.

    Going back tpo how I dialled in idle with a Weber 2-bbl.

    My engine was the Sunbeam Alpine 1725 with an aftermarket Griffith Speed Intake manifold. It used a proper Ford Weber 5210, (Holley G180), all the idle speeds and mixtures were of course tamper proof for Australian Design Rule 27A carb from a 1979 Cortina 2.0, which is exactly the same as USA FMVS 1973, and therefore exactly the same bar a few parts as a 1973 Pinto 2.0 or "Mercury" Capri 2000 emissions regulation. Or the last of the Canadian 1973 Cortina Mark III's.



    Sooo, since I had no baseline idle speed or mixture, I just I wrapped the aluminum tang around the place where the idle screw should normally be. I had to add idle speed because the ignition advance needs of little over head valve 1725 Hillman engine were different to an emissions 2000 OHC Pinto engine.

    In my case, adding a 25 thou shim between the VOTM and the pad raised the idle though.

    The way to do it on a provisional basis is to grab some feeler gauges, and add or subtract the VOTM extension. The idle will go up or down accordingly.

    Then adjust it properly using the EGR SOLV protocol when you've got that sorted.

    Ford had adjustment for everything in order.


    Air cleaner sensor, see http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...61#post1812061



    They didn't broad cast it too loudly, but Ford had international resources of not just the international design staff





    But Cosworth, Honda and Toyo Kogyo (Mazda) as well. The emissions package was effectively uncracked in 1968, with


    1. the 335 and 385 engines, then

    2. reworked with the PROCO Windsor V8 and little versions of the OHV 2300 and CVH 1600 engines.


    The electronics system, well, FoMoCo always knew it could ace that, but it had already done 4-bbl Central Injection and Port EFi in the late 60's with Shelby in the V8's and with with Bosch by Ak Miller in the early 70's on the 200 Ford in line six.

    Traditionally, Ford has found solutions are normally detail related. The electric SOL V's and other bits and bobs are still almost state of the art for a non Feed Back engine, so relax! Even the awe-full air pump is a great way of adding air speed to turn the turbo on earlier.

    Through these Cleveland, Lima, ProCo, and CVHH projects, Ford simply dialed in on what was important, and decided that
    the idle,
    mixture,
    ignition and
    carb systems were best kept Dead Detroit simple,


    The festooning of the other 93 or whatever other bits were just to keep everything serviceable with a shop gas meter, a rolling road, and a scope or multi meter. Once you've gotten that VECI in line, you'll have it a lot easier!

    All of that was mapped out and defined in the late 60's, and then re-refined in the 70's as the EPA clamped down. Those systems are very reliable! The piping is not, and nor is the effect of back yard "lobotomizers"...

    Your best bets here are Jeff Cook and FB71.

    Each have worked with the various systems, and are able to zone in what parts influence the Air Fuel ratios.

    The time since energizing the various circuits is very important. The EGR system is superimposed over the ignition and turbo boost curve...its a little bit complicated to set out what happens in the first 10 minutes in cold, ambient, or hot conditions.

    The AEM will give you a lot of safeguards. Ford didn't have to make the 2.3 Carb turbo a feedback carb engine, the turbo mops up a lot of smog, and the air pump, EGR and the great atomisation via the turbine make the intake air fuel mixture very well mixed.

    Once those idle speeds and the exhaust are leak free, you'll get very close.

    Can you borrow an LEL four gas analyser like they use in gas storage and gasoline or asphalt plants.


    https://www.honeywellanalytics.com/~..._withflash.jpg

    That can track a leak.

    fgross was given a way to check if there was any exhaust leaks or restrictions. In a very early post before the 20 pages of active ones he has....

    IMHO, Back-pressure should be measured permanently on your car to ease the burden of Smog Nazis who don't know if the converters are still internally brick in status. As long as its good, and not leaking, your other adjustments will keep pace on the idle, mixture and emissions.

    Back-pressure measurement will have to be copied out of page approx 79 of David Vizards SOHC Ford Pinto engine book. Pages 83 and 84 on the photocopies.

    https://www.scribd.com/doc/26804743/...-Vizard#scribd

  24. #424
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    My gut feeling is the AEM gauge will be working as long as the grounds and currents are not being influenced.


    The actual air fuel ratios are more controlled with the external settings of the VECI items, and Ford got that nailed down pretty good. SaturnV here has a 1984 Mustang map out of what happens from start to warm up, and with varing loads. Most of the pictures have fallen off the train, but it varies a whole heap with the changes in spark advance, the aggressive two stage power valve, Delay Valves, the throttle "nudgers", the EGR, it all is way off the text book expectations. Once you've pulled the info, you'll be able to see the response to Fords recommended settings.


    Ford in the 1980 era only used the external controls to reign in the air fuel, they got it pretty close.


    There is one other guy here who introduced himself here,

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/forumdis...-Introductions

    and did development work on the 2.3 Turbo Fox, from the EEE division at Ford.

  25. #425

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    Always great posts Xtasy thank you for sharing the wealth of knowledge!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

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