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  1. #251
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Sources:
    Ford 1979 Service Highlights, 2.3 turbocharger publication;
    Ford 1979 Car Shop Manual, Engine, Vol 2, car shop manual supplement Mustang/Capri.

    Drawings show o-ring, compressor to center section.

    Outlet elbow and waste gate assy to turbine housing. Nothing.
    None of the manuals i have show a gasket there. Was there one?
    Only shows 5 bolts 164-181 inch pounds torque.

    Found some for down pipes. They say for external gates.
    https://www.google.com/search?client....0.LOTdArKOzi0

    http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=GSK

  2. #252

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    Thanks GR no gasket between the turbine housing and down-pipe so re-assembled without it. Finally have all the parts and going back together. A little fiddly getting the housings back on and clocked just right. I'm stuck trying to get my oil drain line to thread back in at the block but the rest is just lots of reassembly and hope to be done on Sunday. It's been a while so good thing I took lots of pictures!




    Blue paper gasket? For what/where?! Mine had a big rubber o-ring on the compressor which I replaced with same.


    Turbine housing bath...
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 08-25-2018 at 06:58 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  3. #253

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    Got the oil drain line back to the block for the win! Since I am learning as I go, the blue gasket is for the compressor housing to backing plate if there is no groove for an o-ring in the compressor housing. Pulled it back off to check and the o-ring is correct for my application. Having difficulty getting the complete turbo assembly installed to the manifold now. It seems my clocking marks are no longer valid and the oil drain assembly is not lining up flush to the manifold. There must be some slight warping and there little to no adjustment capabilities on this stock setup. I've tried adjusting the clocking and drain adapter, taken it off and on multiple times and can't seem to get it it to sit right/flush on both mounting planes. I don't want to crack that drain adapter or manifold since they are NLA. Walking away to rethink it. Man this is fighting me each step of the way but I'll keep pushing forward!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 08-24-2018 at 04:52 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  4. #254
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    very cool car. Keep at it, you'll have it going before you know it.

  5. #255
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Been there.
    Its like curling a bowling ball into a laundry tub.
    And if not perfectly clocked, will leak oil at the flange. If nothing cracks.
    Could remove carb and take intake manifold off car, then clock the turbo/intake on the bench.
    Save the back and legs. Prob be less work.
    Then cherry pick the whole thing back in car, turbo installed.
    Way easier when engine is out.

    I lubed the manifold o-rings with dielectric grease.
    Less chance of tearing one sliding turbo in place.

    You would think they could have cast index marks somewhere.

  6. #256

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    Thanks for the words of encouragement! Got it in 4 hours later! After multiple tries I ended up first getting the compressor housing bolted on then angling the rest into position, clocking it minutely and bolting it in. All good. Will work on getting the fiddly bits in, the exhaust attached, and the spaghetti all back in place. Goal is a Sunday drive!

    I could have pulled the motor in and out faster than doing this all in the bay...hopefully the last time I have to do this kind of work on it!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 08-25-2018 at 06:36 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  7. #257
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    That drive for a DQ banana split is getting closer....

    Great info and pics. Where few turbo 2.3 owners have gone.
    4 hours is about right.
    Clock as you go.
    I remember clocking in car then tightening most all the housing bolts to hold the clock.
    The other bolts in back had to do on bench (picnic table).

    Muffler shop fabbed a new down pipe once. Keith had to use a 4' socket extension to tighten pipe from below on lift.
    Found a HF tool that did the job from up top.
    Curved right under back down there:
    https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...het-98484.html

    I use an offset box wrench on the carb nuts, especially the back one, fender side by linkage.
    Did it many times. And more to come. Have a different larger Holley carb to try out.

  8. #258

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    Thanks for always encouraging and providing quick help/tips! Sorry no real pics today as from the topside it doesn't really look like I have done much.
    Another 3.5 hours in today and almost everything is back together.So close but the honey-do list was screaming loudly so had to call it.
    -1.5 hours exhaust and crossover pipe (that was a beatch working under the car on jack stands with several wiggle extensions and my now not so little 14 YO dude helping hold the clamps in place)
    -1 hour getting the silly little metal pipe (the one below the circle with the white cover)

    that is is inflexible where it threads in on both sides connecting the back of the intake mani to crossover turbine pipe
    -1 hour fuel, oil, and water hookups plus throttle cable, dipstick tube, new oil filter, and various other bits

    Tomorrow will be adding the oil, various vacuum lines using my tons of pictures/labels as reference, carb cover/hoses, and the add a splash of fuel in the floats and have the fire extinguishers on the ready for start up. Video will be rolling to see if the turbo carbon seal and fresh rebuild cures that tenacious smoke issue!

    If all goes well the to-do list gets shorter:
    -camshaft belt adjusted properly to distributor gear so that it's clocked correctly for #1 spark plug
    -plug open vacuum sources
    -re-set timing and adjust idle
    -CA legal cat converter install after the exhaust downpipe
    -new tires
    -fresh gas
    -see the CA smog referee
    -brake refresh
    -trans shifter bushing
    -Enjoy the drive with my son and hit a few car shows!

    Next year
    -new rear main seal/new clutch while I am in there
    -paint
    -refurbish BBS
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 08-25-2018 at 07:02 PM. Reason: spellcheck
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  9. #259

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    Well as usual two steps forward, one step back!


    Got everything sorted and she fired up and idled well and best of all NO SMOKE!!!
    It appears the turbo carbon seal has fixed the smokescreen issue. Big thanks to GregPro50 for the insight and referral to G-Pop shop!
    Tried to take it for a short drive but it bucked and backfired under anything more than 10% throttle. Then it just died like it was not getting fuel. Cranked but did not fire and I suspect a fuel pump issue so had to get a tow back home 2 blocks. We had my mom for dinner so had no time to diagnose further but I did notice the timing belt had jumped 2 teeth. I assume it would have started again if that was the only issue but not sure. Also noticed an exhaust leak on the turbine inlet so will need to try and re-clock the housing for better fitment. Otherwise no fluid leaks!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 09-26-2018 at 11:15 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  10. #260
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Ya no smoke, leaks. And it ran and moved. A race car being towed.
    The fire bottle handy on test is a good idea. Have the same one in car.

    The only time mine popped and quit was when the roll pin on the dist shaft sheared, late '80's.
    Did not warm up the engine, cold oil, quick rpms on eway ramp to merge. Now i know. Warm it up.
    Did not know what happened. Towed to dealer. R.O. said what was done. No damage to engine.

    First check take dist cap off and check to see if the dist is turning when cranking. If not, it may be that pin.
    From what i read, couple teeth off on cam timing only moves the power curve up or down.

    On the pipe leak
    I disconnected the manifold end then snugged up the turbine end to see what angle the pipe wound up at.
    Was ok. Loosened turbo end, then reconnected manifold end.
    Found out tightened the pipe wrong at the turbo. A tricky procedure at best. It goes just so.
    A little twist out of line or crooked flange, and the end wont seal.
    That's when i bought that HF wrench to tighten both turbine pipe nuts evenly back and forth from above.
    With no hoist, it was that or muffler shop. The flange at the turbine end was tightened crooked.
    Flange was tight but pipe was not seated. Or something like that.
    Been a while, but remember reclocking that thing too. No fun either.
    I know all the turbo housing bolts are not tight. Got tired of pulling it out.

  11. #261

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    Thanks GR Iíll check out the distributor. On the exhaust we got the big outlet on first then the crossover pipe. The crossover was a bit off after tightening the turbo side down first then trying the passenger manifold side. That didnít work. Loosened and crept up to it on both sides. I thought we had it but looks like itís not quite there. Previously to the turbo rebuild it went off/on no problem so will see if I can clock the turbo exhaust side a hair in car and try again. This setup is finicky!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  12. #262
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Please excuse if i repeat myself in posts with same info posted in the past.

    That front most crossover pipe has very little flex to it. Stainless is tough to bend.
    Thought a while back to add a braided flex section to the crossover pipe to aid install.
    Passed on that. Why cut a good pipe. Plus if it wore out inside, bits would be sucked into turbine.
    Did see there are special ones to use in that situation.
    Cutting pipe in two, then a band clamp, would be better. That setup works fine on my down pipe.

    Innermost fastener for crossover pipe at turbo hardest to access from top.
    When i reclocked slightly, gave priority to ft crossover pipe. Down pipe to cat align is no problem.
    Both turbine connections move together. A tiny bit sure multiplies on the other end as you found out.

    Think i connected both crossover ends, then tightened all little at time, final priority at turbo end.
    Sort of aligning the pipe with the tightening process, wiggle to minimize bind up of flanges.
    Final tightening of the leaking side was priority, felt the flange got hung up at the end bend and did not seat pipe right.

    Had to tighten the pipe studs to seat before install. There is a 'lip' on them. The old turbo (now a spare) used bolts.
    Gosh thanks again much for the pics. Can save hundreds on diy rebuild of it and someday on current oil burner.
    Name:  turbo out9.jpg
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    The old setup
    Name:  79 2.3 turbo downpipes (7).jpg
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Size:  110.7 KB

    Today. Several connections and patches on down pipe with band clamps.
    Name:  exhaust downpipes 818.jpg
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Size:  91.0 KB

    The ratchet wrench flex tool to tighten the pipe nuts from engine compartment.
    Was worth the 20.00 even if rarely needed.
    Name:  downpipe wrench.jpg
Views: 267
Size:  80.5 KB

  13. #263

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    You called it! Great tips GR!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  14. #264

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    brought it to TDC, checked the distributor and I'm getting a spark on #1 as I slightly twist the distributor back and forth, the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug on the distributor cap, and I'm getting fuel on crank. Still no start. Having just reread GR’s post above I’ll pull the cap and check that the distributor rotor is actually turning. Charging the battery overnight.

    I reset the exhaust flanges and tried again tightening each side slowly back and forth with a wiggle in between each time. I think I have right now but won’t know for sure until I get it to fire again!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  15. #265

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    Sorry double post
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 09-15-2018 at 12:46 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  16. #266
    FEP Supporter
    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    brought it to TDC, checked the distributor and I'm getting a spark on #1 as I slightly twist the distributor back and forth, the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug on the distributor cap, and I'm getting fuel on crank. Still no start. Having just reread GRís post above Iíll pull the cap and check that the distributor rotor is actually turning. Charging the battery overnight.

    I reset the exhaust flanges and tried again tightening each side slowly back and forth with a wiggle in between each time. I think I have right now but wonít know for sure until I get it to fire again!
    Good luck. I hope you find out what the issue is! I bet the car driving by (or stalled and towed back) within the two blocks you were out turned a few heads!

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    The ratchet wrench flex tool to tighten the pipe nuts from engine compartment.
    Was worth the 20.00 even if rarely needed.
    Name:  downpipe wrench.jpg
Views: 267
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    gr, that is one of the most remarkable tools ever! I have never seen such a thing before!

  17. #267
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Chances are dis its turning if its still lined up at tdc.
    Belt jumped time. Wonder what that's going to do to the tune.
    May have a loose wire or connection somewhere in the ign circuit.

    If possible, gently inspect the wires near the pickup coil closely with mag glass.
    Recalling way back, had a problem with the wires exiting the dist.
    The advance plate or something rubbed/fatigued the wires, broke insulation and shorted intermittently.
    Felt like loose coil wire or something. Can't recall exactly been so long ago.

    Bought a spare stator assy back 3/29/85 from the dealer. List was 31.25.
    Have no record of the stator assy repair, but assume it was prior to 85 and bought a spare.
    P/N D5TZ-12A112B, Motorcraft DU-5-A stator asy.
    Also known as dist pickup coil. Has 3 wire connector.
    The short was in the wires entering the grommet near the advance plate.

    This is the Motorcraft one. Others are similar, different coded wires.
    Name:  dis pickup coil DU5A.JPG
Views: 232
Size:  10.9 KB

    When the engine was rebuilt in 2000, went with a reman dist. Saved oem as spare.
    The easy way out. Reasonable cost. Adv curve feels the same as original.
    So far so good.
    Having that spare pickup coil in the toolbox is insurance may never use.
    Last edited by gr79; 10-03-2018 at 01:26 PM.

  18. #268
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    When the dealer did the dist pin repair, they also replaced the coil horseshoe connector.
    Think they replaced one spark plug wire too. Pretty thorough 2 hours of work.

    Of course check vac hose lines. Wonder if one is loose, cracked or came off ?
    Last edited by gr79; 09-15-2018 at 10:51 AM.

  19. #269

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    Good ideas to look at GR. I did notice that creating the spark by slightly rotating the distributor back and forth seemed a bit inconsistent. You may be on to something thanks for the part#s too
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  20. #270

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    Possible ignition module issue? After I rebuilt my turbo engine, I was adjusting the timing using a vacuum gauge. Shut it down and tightened the distributor bolt and no restarted. No matter how I tried, it would not start. Apparently I knocked off a hose at the PCV and it was causing a huge vacuum leak and no run. Really aggravated me for a few hours. Happened again (I forget why) and it stalled. Took me a few minutes and I had remembered the vacuum line. Sure enough I knocked it off again. Worth a check.
    Mike Rausch

    1979 Capri 2.3
    1980 Capri Turbo RS
    1980 Capri 2.3
    1980 Mustang 2.3

  21. #271

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    Thanks guys after going through all the checks again I had to phone my Pinto racing friend. He went through it all with me again and again and was stumped. We could not produce a consistent spark on #1 by manually rotating the distributor back and forth. The guess was the stator or the duraspark not producing consistently or the gas had gone bad. The plugs looked wet and still oil soaked even though they had been replaced after the head rebuild but not post turbo rebuild. He said it sounded 180 out but since it started previously and I had not pulled it called it good. So questionable gas & questionable spark. We reset the plug wires and gave it a little more advance and it one last try. It roared back up! Exhaust leak is fixed and took it for a drive around the block. Made it back too!
    We went from dejected to elated!

    The plan now is new plugs, cap and rotor then siphon out some of that beer colored gas. Then brakes, tires, cat con install and smog test!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  22. #272
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Great news! Wonder what it was? One of those may never knows but will take it.
    Had a prob with old gas in the 90's lawnmower this summer. Always starts 3rd pull cold 1 pull warm.
    Was running a little weak in taller grass. Did not sound right on this tank of gas.
    Conked out mid way doing the yard. Old gas in tank and some in container. Prob tried to burn water.
    May have forgotten to add Sta-bil. Neighbor had some fresh. Mower starts normally since that day.
    Every 5 years or so i remove and totally clean the carb, tank, filter. Car carb every other year or so.

  23. #273
    FEP Super Member bkoons85gt's Avatar
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    I like seeing the progress. Keep up the good work!
    ~Bryan

    1985 Mustang GT w/ T-Tops, Original Paint, 160,XXX miles
    Mods: 600cfm Carb, Underdrive Pulleys, Subframe Connectors, 4pt G-Load Brace, MM Strut Tower brace, 8.8 rear w/ 3.55 gears & LCA's

    Pics from production of "The Saleen Book"
    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...&id=1027847075

    http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/select1271.htm

  24. #274

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    Fresh plugs gapped @ .036 and attempted to drive to the tire shop but it ran like a dog so had to turn back. Is there a trick to properly setting the timing? One friend said to pull and plug the distributor vacuum line and then set the timing. My Haynes manual says the same. When I do that @ 6 degrees BTC it stalls out. My other friend said to set it with the distributor vacuuum line in place. When I do that it idles 1,100 RPMs just fine but runs like crap. I need to get to the tire shop, then the muffler shop and Friday the smog referee @ the California Bureau of Automotive repair but I need to set things to factory or it will fail immediately. Clearly there's an art to this that I have yet to learn. The carb rebuild guy said leave everything the way he set it so in theory it should be at a good baseline. Maybe my Hazard Fraught timing light is off? I have a good dwell meter with automotive settings I use on my VW GTI but have no idea if there is a port I can tap into on the Mustang. Where do you have yours set? Any tips?!!!! Suggestions for a good tutorial?
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 09-27-2018 at 01:05 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  25. #275
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Can say mine hardly ran at recommended 6į btdc. Too low.
    Last i checked it was at about 12-16 at idle. Gave it what it wanted.
    Did my engine timing on the road. No light except to check initial at idle and at 2500.
    Took dist wrench along. Took days to get it right. Everything was connected.
    Snugged dist so it would not move easily but could be turned by hand.
    Kept adv dist a bit until spark ping was heard when driven faster than normal for a few seconds.
    Got out, opened hood again, backed it off a bit. No audible pinging was acceptable.
    After few hours locked dist down for the day. Took a few days of testing.
    If any pecking was heard, would reset it then and there if possible.
    Picked various conditions, roads normally traveled, hiway and side street normal over a span of weeks.
    Pulls smoothly from 1100 floored no knock 87 fuel. Can cruise at 1500. Lowest rpm that boost starts is about 1900.
    Boost is turned down to 3-4 max. Detuned.
    Ave 20 mpg. No problem with power. Nice torque.
    Have not touched timing for over 10 years.

    Was a dog when i drove it the first few miles after engine rebuild.
    Turned out the reman carb (from Holley) jets were too small. Replaced with larger stock size, engine came alive.

    Last time i signed the pavement in June. About a 10 roll in 1st, revved to 2500, dumped clutch. Kept in it for few seconds.
    Backed down, turned into 3rd driveway in pic and parked car to sit with friends.

    Attachment 124093

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