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  1. #176
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default similar project persective to possibly add in your success, inspiration.

    Wish i could visit. Well the forum will do fine.
    Doing up an engine for a renewed life successfully is so rewarding.
    Honestly, every time i drive mine is a treat.

    Nice pics. Will be valuable during reassembly and for memories.
    Refreshes mental details from the past.
    Taking time to document progress, dates, and tasks, helps much for future reference.

    I believe a new turbo oil line can be made using a brake line with correct id, end fittings, and duplicated bends.

    In car repair is harder lifting heavy parts without a lift assist of some sort plus limited access to everything.
    Plus side is it saves a lot of time overall.

    Pulling the engine with trans is not that hard once planning and commitment is made and proper tools are on hand.
    Adds a lot more down time, mess, space, determination, and documenting/staging of parts.
    Trade off is easy tear down, inspections, clean and paint, rebuild.
    Little over 6 years in my case, first time doing this major type of work in this type of car.

    If pulling the oil pan, engine has to come almost out. Rebuild of bottom end really has to be done on an engine stand.
    Pulling most of the parts off in-car can make later choice of engine pull easier and more manageable.
    If pulling engine, leave bell on. Just pull trans. Save time.

    So is ability to keep car in place. And loose parts safe.
    Had to move mine multiple times over 13 years downtime.
    Overcoming setbacks, stumbling blocks, were part of the deal.
    One was misplacing all the oil pan fasteners. Had to buy new. Found them years later. Dunno what happened there.
    Keeping loose parts always together in large plastic bins with lids prevented more loss.

    There are times one loses steam on the project. Then comes a turning point.
    Later on buildup, things get much better.

    Vaguely like taking dips in a pool, low dive, gulp, high diving in. Building up confidence.
    Past experience allows me to 'high dive' working on some parts of a car. Never in a pool.
    Whatever is comfortable works best.
    There will always be second guessing on the right way, or if something was overlooked or done at all.

    Will wait till i retire to do this again. Hard when working ft, ot, and car is parked on the other side of town.
    Vacation, holidays, and auto industry summer shutdown layoff time pushed the project along faster.
    Could not have done it without valuable help from friends, family, and good outside contacts.
    Even bad info helped decisions, of which correct ones stood out or made more sense more than once.

    6/30/93


    11/14/99


  2. #177

    Default

    That is so awesome GR thanks for sharing the story and for the valuable insight/experience you have given along the way! I picked this up 09/24/93 so this is truly a long term project much like yours! I've had a couple unsolicited offers for it and even put it up on eBay once but glad I hung on to it. The path and time this has taken was not expected (as is much in life!) but I'm happy to be involved in it right now with my 12 year old gearhead. I'm trying to plant the seeds of working with your hands, taking your time and how to problem solve. He's an absolute car nut and already on Craiglist daily hunting for his first car. I sure hope he does not pick a 2.3T needing engine work!!

    This site and feedback from those here have helped keep the fire lit. What a great group of people and a great hobby! Thanks for the inspiration.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  3. #178
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default 2.3 OHC timing belt replacement tip prior to removing it.

    Got another one!
    Was on a Ranger forum, 2.3 SOHC tech.
    I also have a 2.3 (n/a) in my 93 Ranger. Basically the same engine.

    The post was about a Cloyes 2.3 timing belt kit and how good it was.
    Credit goes to RLJ of Gresham OR for starting thread and follow up post.

    Posted what looks to be a great method not mentioned in repair manuals.
    When installing new timing belt, would save time and be accurate in timing the cam, crank, and aux (dis/oil pump) belt sprockets.
    Not easy to do the first time or even the 2nd.
    Requires car was running fine, old belt is tensioned, intact, in running configuration, has not snapped.

    When replacing, correct belt timing on all 3 sprockets is super important.
    Replacement belt timing has to be correct after the timing belt tensioner is released to tension the belt.
    If sprocket marks are off, have to redo. We do not need more work. Nor any doubts the timing is correct.

    And you being close to pulling the cyl head off, doing this tip now can help later.

    With outer timing cover off;
    Before touching the timing belt and belt tensioner.
    Before releasing the tension and pulling the timing belt off:

    RLJ of Gresham OR posted (says 3 weeks ago):
    "Mark a tooth on the belt and its corresponding notch in the sprocket on all the sprocket pulleys."
    Release tension, remove old belt.
    "Then lay the old belt on the new belt and transfer the marks to the new belt.
    This method can be used without ever lining up all the sprocket's timing marks."

    http://www.ranger-forums.com/sohc-2-...lt-kit-149747/

    Having done this before, i will for sure use that system when the time comes.
    Simple idea and would feel much more confident timing is right than other methods used to do this task.
    Gosh, getting it right the first time and knowing that would be so cool.
    Of course the other methods are a good double check.

  4. #179

    Default

    Great tip thanks GR! Congrats on the new car looking forward to the updates.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  5. #180
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Well thank you!
    Pardon my wording- "got another one" meant= another repair tip.
    Nah no new car.
    Fixing the ps sun visor with magnets did make that one part of the car look like new.

  6. #181

    Default

    We found a few hours to finally get this head off

    Had to make quick trip to the store to get a 1/2 in 13mm 12 point socket.
    The head weighs far more than I expected and was tougher than lifting the turbo and manifold off for sure.
    We got it done and now determining what the issue is before getting the head rebuilt is important so we
    don't end up back in the same place.
    Double-checked that we were @ TDC on #1. Checked all the timing marks

    made a few extras for good measure

    Closer inspection of where we had very low compression on #2
    reveals a small burned valve

    I'm not sure this is enough to drop compression so low but all the build up on the valves
    Is contributing. Here's #2 intake valve which has a lot of buildup underneath

    I wonder if that's enough to keep the valve from closing all the way which is letting oil down int the combustion chamber?
    All the valves are coked up but only#2 has a small chunk out of it.

    The head gasket looked ok to my eyes with no obvious leak or break but I'll need to get an expert
    eyes on this to verify.


    The pistons looks fine and the cylinders looked good to me with no scoring
    and nice cross-hatching. There's a small discoloration and ridge at the top 1/8" of the bore perhaps where the piston doesn't quite go to the top?

    My wet compression test did not change anything so hopeful that confirms the rings are OK. I'll look in to see if there
    is another way to check this without pulling the engine.
    Also need to figure out how water is entering the combustion chamber if the HG is Ok. Maybe as some suggested a bad turbo water jacket seal?
    I'll replace those during reassembly assuming everything else checks out.
    If anyone has feedback or suggestions I'd like to hear from you!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 08-22-2017 at 12:04 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  7. #182
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    A few terms added for your visual accliam

    Nice stuff!

    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    We found a few hours to finally get this head off





    Had to make quick trip to the store to get a 1/2 in 13mm 12 point socket.
    The head weighs far more than I expected and was tougher than lifting the turbo and manifold off for sure.
    We got it done and now determining what the issue is before getting the head rebuilt is important so we
    don't end up back in the same place.
    Double-checked that we were @ TDC on #1. Checked all the timing marks








    made a few extras for good measure







    Closer inspection of where we had very low compression on #2
    reveals a small burned valve








    I'm not sure this is enough to drop compression so low but all the build up on the valves
    Is contributing. Here's #2 intake valve which has a lot of buildup underneath



    Continued below...

  8. #183
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    The balance remaining...



    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post







    I wonder if that's enough to keep the valve from closing all the way which is letting oil down int the combustion chamber?
    All the valves are coked up but only#2 has a small chunk out of it.










    The head gasket looked ok to my eyes with no obvious leak or break but I'll need to get an expert
    eyes on this to verify.




    The pistons looks fine and the cylinders looked good to me with no scoring
    and nice cross-hatching. There's a small discoleration and ridge at the top 1/8" of the bore perhaps where the piston doesn't quite go to the top?







    My wet compression test did not change anything so hopeful that confirms the rings are OK. I'll look in to see if there
    is another way to check this without pulling the engine.
    Also need to figure out how water is entering the combustion chamber if the HG is Ok. Maybe as some suggested a bad turbo water jacket seal?
    I'll replace those during reassembly assuming everything else checks out.
    If anyone has feedback or suggestions I'd like to hear from you!

  9. #184
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    I grew up working Holidays as "laci" laborer for an exceptional ex Ford service technician who ran the Otago Central Electric Power Board automobile service workshop. Did everything from GM Bedfords, to LandRovers to Holdens and Fords and Toyota's.

    Alan was his name, and he was awesome.

    He said that the fire ring, the zone between the tdc to the ring land stop point (1/4"), should always remain untouched, and it told the tale of how well the air fuel mix was atomised. Our propane vehciles were always magically clean here, gasoline, not so much. The solution for head gasket of valve or piston damage was to find the detonation prone cylinders, and drop the compression 0.5 (half a point) if there was a known problem with that engine family. An old David Vizard trick on Minis and SOHC Pinto Ford engines. That's once you've checked peak advance at 3500 rpm, and down to idle, that its all in spec. Bymguate


    Down in the bottom of the world, Ford didn't go electronic engine control for another 5 years later than the USA. It was 1985 to 1986, and right about then Ford Australia had gone EECIV, and the people fooling around with cross flow engines got all crossed up because they weren't following the normal Electronic Engine Control rules in the Ford Service Manuals. The solution was to just read the Impco Propane service bulletins, which told you how the 79/80/81/82/83/84 engines worked.


    In your case, you won't hole a forged 1979 "D9-ZE" TRW piston in a 2300 M81 Turbo unless its really thrashed very, very mercilusly. The boost increase they had might push the detonation into the exhaust valve area....remember, the quality of the valves was upgraded to suit the turbo engine. So No 2 is a common detonation cylinder of 4cylinder engines.

    Replace the valve with the right kind (Nimonic or Iconel), have the seats checked and redone and blue printed, and you have the option of dropping the compression ratio 0.5 of a point, or just bebuilding. Your car is of course, rolling, unmolstered history, dude!


    In addition to the basic carb vac line details (which varied between CA and non CA cars, and between 79 and 80)

    The check for this engine is the MCU, which you can run the codes on as it has the 12 Dealer Service Codes in the CPU, and lists them if you use a test light or code reader.


    The last check is instructions from Bymguate on the actual peak advance values. Back in the day, service technicians would have been easily able to check that stuff, as normal service protocol. A lot of info has disapeared into a hole in the ground on these. Most carb turbo engines are the same, limit peak advance, and keep the boost down, and keep using the car. Best way to keep the car in good fettle.


    And the baseline EVTM and VECI diagram (what gr79 listed is in fact post #14& #15 combined; it's great advice!).


    Before 1981, the car was the EVTM and VECI diagram

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    The 1979 Mustang/Capri EVTM has no detailed turbo vac schematics.
    1979 Ford Service Highlights, 2.3L Turbocharger handbook does.
    Pic of hard to find handbook: https://www.google.com/search?q=ford...Vqw0RYIRxd9lM:

    Blurry pic, broken link? the real deal on page 36: https://www.google.com/search?q=carb...G1o-6mi6Rv5LM:

    Calibration code for 1979 49 state Mustang/Capri 2.3L turbo is 9-2E-R93
    Calif is 9-2R-R93

    Link to copy below. Almost exact routing and parts were used in Fairmont/Zepher 2.3t's.
    http://myzephyrs.com/VAC_2.3/9-2E-R0.html

    Decoding of most abbrev in diagram, post #13 : http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...equired-please!
    And:
    http://myzephyrs.com/vac_part_name.htm

    Quote Originally Posted by Sellis1012 View Post
    these are the two primary things you need. You might have the schematic under your hood that you'll want to butt up against this one. You need to study the schematic, then study and figure out what each piece of the puzzle is from the abbreviations. If you have a question about what a particular piece is, take a picture, post it up and I will be able to tell you what it is. I pulled out some skills from basic electronics in the Air Force and traced out all the lines with different colored pencils. So you will want to print these out. I can e-mail you the pictures and if you can put them on photoshop you can make them bigger. They are quite clear on photoshop. SHould work in Word as well. The cut off abbreviation is VVVAC-Vent Valve Vacuum.


    RNR#1 and 4 are the metal vacuum lines.
    MAN PLNM is your vacuum tree at the front of your engine.
    SPK RET is the set of switches by your washer res.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sellis1012
    Please notice on the schematic where it says "front of engine". That is accurate. All the pieces should be in close vicinity to where they are on the schematic.

  10. #185
    FEP Power Member
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    Default

    I didn't check to see how many miles were on your car, but that's a lot of build up on the valves. It probably has been running poorly for a while. The timing marks procedure listed is a bit overkill. Just line up the marks and it should work. Worst case you may get the cam timing out of sync if I recall correctly. It is much easier to get it right if it was running before and you don't move things. If you are doing head work, don't forget to replace the valve seals and closely inspect the cam lobes for wear. The cams often plug up and oil does not get to the lobes.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  11. #186

    Default

    Thanks Xctash and Kevin for the insights. I appreciate the feedback and tidbits that are adding to my pool of info/knowledge. I have a very long way to go but it's good to keep dipping my toes on the water! I'll have the head completely gone through to check for cracks and have the seals redone, valves replaced or cleaned up as needed etc. it took a big effort to get here so I want to be pretty thorough on how it goes back together. My car has 21k miles on it and the carb was way out of tune which I'm sure contributed to the issues. I'll post updates as this progresses and I learn more about how these are screwed together! Those diagrams are in the book I picked up. When I put her back together I will study them in detail and learn what each thing does and how it's supposed to connect.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  12. #187

    Default

    Oh and thanks for fixing my pics too; the links from Photobucket used to copy over without problems so I need to figure it out again!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  13. #188

    Default

    The head checked out ok no cracks!
    Name:  IMG_1291.JPG
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    It's been cleaned, decked, painted & new valves installed by an old school race engine builder that knows the 2.3 well. I'm very lucky to have made friends with a guy that know what he's doing and has a head guy that he trusts. Next step is to have him take a look at the block and confirm if we are a go to re-install the head. My new FelPro turbo full gasket kit is in along with a new timing belt & thermostat. New water pump and hoses on the way. Will be 2 weeks or so for the next update due to work schedule. Boring stuff like parts cleaning will happen in between. See ya!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 04-02-2017 at 06:14 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  14. #189

    Default Head is back on

    Hi there, last Sunday we finally got the head on and torqued thanks to my buddy Mike and his cherry picker and 35+ years of Ford 2.3 experience! I'm truly grateful for his friendship, advice, help, repair network, and general interest in helping out a a fellow ford enthusiast. I would not be at this stage without him and also with the support and encouragement of you all here!

    What a back saver the engine hoist is; we had the head on there in 5 minutes. Now it's on to the task of reassembly. Since everyone including me likes pics here you go!



    FelPro head studs



    My buddy sourced and installed a new roller cam and lifters. Ordered and will be installing new motor mounts, water pump, cam belt tensioner, hoses, belts, etc. and cleaning everything before it goes back in. Most items are in great shape given the low mileage but taking care of surface rust from years of just sitting. I'm buying Ford or Motorcraft when I can source it and keeping as much original as possible. I'm trying to hold back from painting things to look "new" and would rather keep it looking clean and original. What do you think? I see a bench grinder with a wire wheel in my future but the Dremel seems to work pretty well for now.





    Painted numbers on the block are interesting...


    Looking into the best way to seal bare metal items like this to prevent rust from returning. I see a VHT engine clear that may do the trick.
    Any tips?
    Ordered a Walker 81121 replacement CAT that may work but fit is tight! My Cat was gutted.
    Hope you are having fun under the hood this weekend!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 08-22-2017 at 11:45 AM. Reason: replaced dead Photbucket pics
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  15. #190
    FEP Member cbratch67's Avatar
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    Hey M81 McLaren, I've been off this forum for quite a while and hadn't seen this thread. Your son is lucky to have a dad who is interested in the same things he is and wants to spend the time teaching, all of us should have been so lucky! I have been messing with my motorcycle for the last several years but you are getting me stoked to tackle my 83 Turbo Capri in the near (or not so near, life is funny that way) future. I will be referring to your thread for inspiration!

  16. #191

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cbratch67 View Post
    Hey M81 McLaren, I've been off this forum for quite a while and hadn't seen this thread. Your son is lucky to have a dad who is interested in the same things he is and wants to spend the time teaching, all of us should have been so lucky! I have been messing with my motorcycle for the last several years but you are getting me stoked to tackle my 83 Turbo Capri in the near (or not so near, life is funny that way) future. I will be referring to your thread for inspiration!
    Thanks cbratch67 hope to see your project on here soon and thanks for the kind words. Others on here have inspired me as well and helped up my confidence to push forward. My project is slow going as you have seen with other life commitments always taking priority. I keep nibbling away here and there and eventually will get this on the road (this year dammit!). I'm contemplating my exhaust and CAT setup as it looks like it's been modified and I will need to correct that before going to the smog referee. Friend is helping me with trying to track down correct parts.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  17. #192

    Default

    Oh Photobucket you really suck. Way to hold your customers hostage for a ridiculous ransom. I would consider paying for the service but not by this tactic. Looks like I will have to rebuild all the images in this thread with a move to Flickr.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  18. #193

    Default

    Moved all the pics from PhotoBucket and changed the links to Flickr. Took my entire lunch break but it was fun to re-live the last couple of years over again!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  19. #194

    Default

    Quick update while I am here, replaced the turbo seals and found a leak from the turbo to the oil drain. The bolt was previously stripped so my buddy Mike helped me chase the threads and I picked up some new bolts and nuts. I am cleaning everything up and replacing servicable parts befor they go back in so it's taking a while. I'm either doing that by hand with Engine cleaner and elbow grease or EvapoRust which seems to work as advertised.






    This is the bolt that was stripped so picked up a suitable replacement today and will re-assemble everything on the mani this weekend.
    Small turbo but was rebuilt prior to my ownership and spins freely and is nice and tight.


    Hunting for a turbo feed line replacement...


    My buddy's race Pinto with 2.3T with over 300 HP. I hear it's very fast and looking forward to seeing it run next year!

    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  20. #195

    Default

    double post
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 09-26-2017 at 01:22 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  21. #196

    Default

    Old updates but some progress was made 3 weeks ago.
    exhaust mani on, new waterpump & thermostat in (FelPro master kit gasket was not correct for this so had to get one locally)


    Having trouble seating the distributor back in after replacing the DS motor mount. Will try and rotate the crank a hair this weekend and see if that will do it.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  22. #197
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Lookin good
    Wont be long now

    Turbo oil line:
    Is it stripped or cracked?
    All i did was polish mine up.
    Anyway, they look to me like a brake line.
    Maybe get one with the right size and threaded ends, then bend to match.
    That sure is a tight curve on the switch end.
    The newer armor coated lines bend easy though. Like for that tight radius.
    Seen braided ones too.
    I trust all steel more because of the heat.

  23. #198

    Default

    Thanks GR it's the "nut" portion on the turbo end that rounded a bit during removal. I had to bend it a bit to get it out of the way thus the tight radius and why I want to replace it.


    Yes it looks like brake line to me so I'm visiting a local brake shop tonight and see if they can reproduce it. Somehow I lost one of my intake manifold bolts so need to replace that before I can mount up the mani/turbo again. Lots of cleaning going on while I have the space under hood! Travel softball is another 4 weeks so garage time is far and few between at the moment.
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 10-03-2017 at 06:53 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  24. #199

    Default


    Another great Sunday in the garage cleaning parts, chasing bolts and getting items installed. I sourced a few new bolts and the turbo e-clip that apparently flew across the garage upon removal! A/C is bolted in, intake and turbo installed and torqued (what a major PITA!), exhaust and crossover installed and torqued. This weekend We'll get the accessory pulleys, alternator, smog pump, crank pulley, new hoses and rad installed and the spaghetti back in place. We'll put in the new oil & filter plus fresh spark plugs, turn it 2 full rotations then double-check that its @ TDC before giving it a crank. Wish us luck; it's been a long road!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 10-17-2017 at 01:59 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  25. #200
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Had a multiple Eclips day.

    Must have been fun getting all those intake bolts in there.

    Them e-clips..
    Could not get another to go back on there on the waste gate arm end.
    Temp wrapped alum wire on it. It really never came off with no clip, but-
    Since 2013, using a very small hairpin clip.
    Hooked the clip to a piece of sash chain fastened to the firewall.
    No more 'where did it go'? Has not come off.

    Happened couple weeks ago.
    We call it a 'Local multiple Eclips(e)' day.

    Had one fly off replacing S-10 tailgate cables at a friend's house. No spares.
    Found the clip on the drive (colorful old cement). It was broken.
    Needed another to retain the cable rivet. GM uses rivets, Ford uses bolts there.
    Did a quick trip to Advance Auto for a 2.00 e clip assortment kit.
    Back on the job, a rag was used for a backstop.

    Later during dinner, she said her suitcase record player quit working.
    Well, it was repair day there and that would be clean inside work.
    Repair plan: check the platter belt- if it had one.
    Platter had to come off to get at the belt.
    Guess what retained the turntable platter?
    Yup.

    That one did not fly off, plus it was larger.
    The belt was off. Simple fix.
    Test album was "The Ventures Play Telstar and the Lonely Bull" from the 60's.
    Last edited by gr79; 10-17-2017 at 10:55 PM. Reason: title added

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