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  1. #401

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    Son took a couple quick shots on Saturday to celebrate the drive.




    Next free garage time will be aggressively studying the vacuum setup to get it 100% and start tuning for smog testing. Goodguys show coming up in March!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  2. #402

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    Son took a couple quick shots on Saturday to celebrate the drive
    Nice!
    I would love to see some shots of the Calloway GTI. I had a 80 Rabbit with a GTI 1.8 with dual side drafts back in my collage years.
    It was replaced with my 85 GT.
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  3. #403

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    Nice JK I had a 79 Rabbit in HS, then a 84 Gti in College. Worked on Mk1's and Mk2's with friends and as flip cars to help pay for college. Lots of memories so about 4 years ago i picked this up.
    Callaway Rabbit Gti- 52K original miles on the car and super clean. Modified everywhere Callaway Turbo kit, Zender, Recaro, Nakamichi, Rockford Fosgate, Koni, etc. (a bit much but it's unique!). I have acquired almost all original VW NOS or excellent parts used to bring it back to 100% stock in the future if I want. Apparently I have a thing for 80's cars with flares and turbos! I like the idea of Radwood so plan to participate in that with both the GTI and the M81.




    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-21-2019 at 10:09 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  4. #404

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    That is one sweet GTI!
    My Dad worked at a VW dealership so I had a lot of GTi take-offs on mine, Wheels, flares, front air dam and euro bumpers.
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  5. #405

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    Ok to get back on topic and not steal more time from another thread, there a separate thread started by GregPro5.0 during his 2.3 rebuild here that has helped me tremendously begin to understand the vacuum line setup on the early 2.3 cars. With everyone's help (thanks GR79, XTasy and GregPro50 and Red '7 we have deduced with my dual SOL V (Solenoid vacuum setup) that the correct vacuum setup for my car is likely one of 3 diagrams on Red's site http://myzephyrs.com. It's either #40, 41 or 42 of 107 and looks much like this:

    The correct Emissions Sticker as confirmed on M81#10 on Bring a Trailer pictures is E0ZE-9C485-JB then BZW


    So upon investigation my current setup for the vacuum SPK RET unit on my fender goes to what I believe is the Emissions Diverter Valve (AIR BPV on the vacuum diagram?) behine the smog pump and I believe incorrect per the diagram as it should go to RNR1. The rubber line looks like an exact match to what the broken RNR1 line looks like. This is problem #1 to change and test!



    There is also a small tee in the line by my finger that has a clear plastic tube going through the firewall which I assume is for the boost gauge. This was quite loose and might explain why my boost gauge does not register (or maybe also because of the incorrect routing to the diverter valve). Will test this after the reroute to RNR1 to see if the boost gauge works again.
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-17-2019 at 06:47 PM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  6. #406
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    That is what my boost gauge line looks like. Came in gauge kit with brass fittings. Milky white.
    30+ years takes its toll on vac lines, plastic connectors, components. If brittle (no flex), time for new.
    Has to be tight, no leaks. Does not matter if connected to RNR #4 or #1.

    I inserted the nylon line into a short piece of rubber vac hose, to #4 RNR tube.
    Went this way instead of using brass fittings for the sake of simplicity.
    Did add a brass compression ferrule (from the gauge install kit) to the end of the nylon tubing.
    This helps it seal and stay in the hose real well.
    Name:  turbo in2 with arrow.jpg
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  7. #407

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    Thank you for confirming GR. So now I hooked my SPK RET directly up to RNR1. I fixed the connection for the nylon boost gauge that T's in here. The gauge now works at idle it reads but reads about 16 at idle and then lowers to around 8 when I blip the throttle. I assume this is a vacuum reading and when I get on the road and get under boost it will read positive 8-15 PSI is that how it works? Small step forward!
    Idle


    Throttle Blip
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-18-2019 at 10:29 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  8. #408

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    Well a quick google search and I'll answer my own question...
    PSI = Pounds per square inch. That is a standard issue of measurement for any pressure gauge that uses SAE (standard American English) measurements.
    in/hg (inches of mercury) = The standard issue of measurement for vacuum gauges. This refers to the air pressure below ambient pressure.

    Both measurements are levels relative to atmospheric pressure, so when the gauge reads 15 psi, the air pressure inside of the manifold is 15 psi above atmospheric levels. When it reads 15 in/hg, then it's reading 15 inches of mercury below ambient air pressure.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  9. #409
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    That is how the gauge works. Very important that it works again.
    A monitor showing the current tune of engine and how it is operating under various conditions.

    Boost, needle swings left of '0' area, regular driving, needle down and right of '0' area.
    14" is low for idle even if idle is high. Vac leak or more tuning needed to get it higher.
    A higher reading would be better for smog test. Go for 17", or higher when warm.
    8 or so is normal blip figure.
    Now to see where it goes when driving.

    But that is what is to be worked on sorting the vac connections and tuning.
    Gauge will monitor changes affecting idle vac up or down.

    Boost should be 7# psi on yours as i recall.
    Anything over 10# is not good. Way too much for the 'high' compression 2.3T carb version head gasket.
    EFI turbos have lower compression and can run into the teens.
    Unless you have EFI pistons in it. Then its monitor the AFR time.
    Last edited by gr79; 01-18-2019 at 03:23 PM.

  10. #410

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    Thanks for the feedback GR very helpful to know the targets for a baseline. I've still got work to do this weekend to identify the component name in the diagrams by visual in order to correct the vacuum lines back to stock like the secondary air horn. It's also possible even if I get all the lines correct that a component is no longer functioning but that's for another day once I get it all right!
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 01-18-2019 at 10:31 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  11. #411
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    SE Michigan
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    Took a bit of experimenting to get mine right after removing most of the hoses, then needing to reinstall a few.
    Am reinstalling cold weather items. Heat riser and those colored air cleaner sensors that control the heat door.
    Just for the cold winter weather here, making sure of no carb icing.

    Odd thing is the way some of the vac lines actually let bits of un metered air into the engine, other than thru the carb.
    Balanced just enough so as not to stall, but helping engine idle or something. One is the carb secondary connection.

    Those carbs have tiny passages that get dirty inside. Maybe from fuel residue. Need cleaning every few years.
    Last time had it cleaned ultrasonically.
    Can tell when turning idle mix screw all the way in and engine does not stall. Like now on mine. Its due. Old plugs too.
    Runs fine, though has dropped from 24-25 mpg to 17-20. Window sticker does say 18, so not worried.
    The shop manual has the cleaning procedure. It is a specific sequence to spray cleaner into certain holes/passages.

  12. #412

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    Awesome to see shots of such a rare four eyed fox on the road! Congratulations!

    There is a guy around Omaha NE that runs a business called “scratch away”. He focused on minimalistic paint/body repairs where he would use air brush and touchup sprayer base techniques to repair damage while blending paint color with original and making it basically disappear into the panel.

    Saw some really amazing before/after work from him and took my Mercury Mountaineer to him after my wife lightly crash tested it and messed up the front fender near the headlight as well as the front bumper.

    Someone with those type of skills and some time could eliminate the flaws while not messing with the originality of the rest of your car and really make it a show favorite. Just a thought.....

    cant find the before but here’s the after. To the naked eye it was impossible to tell anything had been done. I can’t find my straight on picture of the front right now ..... will have to look some more. It was MESSED up — split bumper cover and pushed in fender with a crumple, etc. I watched him do much of the work and it did not get repainted anywhere except where the pain had fallen off from the damage, everything else was just an old fashioned mastery of blending


    facebook page : https://m.facebook.com/pages/categor...2339328182529/

    Would make such a difference in such a beautiful car
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by erratic50; 01-18-2019 at 05:26 PM.

  13. #413

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    I'll be tracing and comparing system by system as best I can. Much appears correct but some clearly not. Still trying to confirm what this is


    Erratic thanks I've thought some about how best to move forward on the body once the mechanicals are done. I prefer original with some love marks over perfection because it tells a story. The marks on my car are from the PO including the hood flying back and damaging the cowl at a windy car show. My car on close inspection really needs more than spot repair and blending especially the cracking along the 1/4 panel flare bonding and nose but it's worth a few opinions from experts. Appreciate the comments!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  14. #414
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Have had my hood caught by wind on driveway too. No damage.
    Was under it working in the turbo area. Got 'alligatored' by the hood. Is heavy lifting from back there.
    Started using a bungee to safe the hood prop with tension until gas hood struts were installed.
    Hood pins are also installed. Once a hood flies up (driving my 67) one never forgets that.
    Scariest part is when hitting 50 on xway and noticing hood is stopped by the catch (my Ranger, several times, no pins).

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