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  1. #351
    FEP Power Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Thanks for the comment Kevin. Are you suggesting that my car could be cutting out because of an overheating issue? Is there some kind of computer protection shutdown if the car reaches a temp ceiling?
    No, there is nothing to stop the engine if it gets hot. I'm just saying, keep an eye on the temperature in case it runs hot.

    Engine cutting out is either fuel or ignition. I just went through a bad fuel pump issue and it was easy to diagnose with a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pumps do not age well and will fail if not used.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert, 92 GT Vert.
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 14 Mustang CS/GT,
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  2. #352
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    Default fuel flow

    Back to square one.
    Too bad we aren't neighbors.
    Reread some of the early thread posts. 2010? Geez thought that date was a mistake.
    Noticed the fuel tank has drain and separate fuel level sender for the SW fuel gauge. McLaren mods i assume.
    Never had an over temp engine shutdown on any engine here. Did McLaren add one?
    Of course, all fuel lines are connected to the correct fittings and not accidentally reversed.

    I doubt anything is wrong with the tank. Could peek inside by removing pickup assy, rather than whole tank.
    Almost empty tank of course. But that is a lot of work.

    The clear filter. To see whats going on with fuel quickly.
    Should see plenty of fuel in it during, and for a while, after shutdown.
    After shutdown, the fuel pump relieves pressure allowing fuel in the carb line to drain back into tank thru the return line.
    Saves the needle and seat i guess.

    One thing i did once was temp pinch off the rubber hose return line at the fuel pump.
    Fuel never drained out of filter when car was parked after this was done.
    Made a block off hose. Ran it for years that way.

    Reason why i did this back in the 80's?
    Curious about how much fuel pressure the engine was getting under boost.
    Temp installed fuel pressure gauge outside of car taped to windshield wiper.
    A cheap hand held vac/pressure gauge.
    With return line pinched off, 5# all the time.
    Return line open, dropped to 3-4# under boost. Never cut out, or noticed any power diff.
    Eventually reconnected fuel return line like it was from factory.
    Its no doubt for emissions. Read that returning fuel all the time agitated the vapors out of it.
    Over thinking things or maybe not. Gonna block it off again in 2019.

    Now, simple ways i use to test fuel flow from tank.
    First pinch off that return line at the pump. Pinch off with clamp or tool.
    Run engine, check filter. Can drive it this way.

    Another way to test fuel is with main fuel tank offline. To see if there is a problem in tank.
    Disconnect both rubber lines back at tank pickup. Vapor line at tank top not a problem.
    Dunk both lines in a full gas can (now the temp fuel tank) on ground.
    Parked, run engine. 20 min or so. Observe fuel in filter, see if level changes.

    Or drive car with a gas can connected directly to fuel pump of car.
    Like in an outboard motor boats. Cars? Where to temp put tank safely?
    That would be like another gas tank or fuel cell to run engine without main tank connected.
    Easy with a pickup truck. Tank outside in bed of truck.

    Just some ideas, thoughts.
    Or take it in to a shop somewhere have someone figure it out if that's an option.
    Big thing is trusting someone with a car like that...
    Mine is stock and still leery of doing that. "That will be 2000.00......"
    For something simple they found, and not revealing true details.

  3. #353

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    I had a similar issue with the 2.3 n/a in my Zephyr. It wouldn't maintain fuel pressure. It would run for about a mile then start cutting out and die. Then it would sit about 10 minutes and start back up and drive another mile and repeat. It had a new fuel pump, fuel filter, and sock on the fuel pickup. We blew air through the lines and they were clear.

    I thought maybe my new fuel pump was defective so I warranteed it, but the new one did the same thing. So I went and bought an electric universal low pressure fuel pump. After I put that on I had no more problems with fuel pressure or stalling.

    I'm thinking the problem was either I got two bad fuel pumps or the fuel pump lobe was wiped.
    Matt
    1980 Mercury Zephyr moredoor sleeper

    1988 Mustang GT hatch -- Explorer intake, GT40 heads with Trick Flow spring kit, Crane 1.7 rrs, 70mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 Deluxe handle, clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster, and 3.27s

    1986 Mercury Cougar 5.0 (sold), 1989 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 5.0 5 speed (sold)

  4. #354
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I knew people that added an electric fuel pump to make sure the mech one got fuel.
    The street race and dragstrip days. Prob helped stop vapor lock in hot summer.

    Electric fuel pump boost overcomes slow venting?
    Some suggest lack of tank venting. Pump cant pull hard enough once the air is out of tank.
    To fill tank, air has to come out. To empty tank, air has to go in.
    Air returns back in tank, process repeats.
    Fuel cap, charcoal canister purge valve, etc. Tank vents.
    Could always take fuel cap off when car starts acting up just for kicks.

  5. #355

    Default

    Great minds think alike! I was also thinking take the cap off or install a vented cap.

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