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  1. #26
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joelliott View Post
    How you doing? Im going to tell you this from experience...... Do not get the crap from the autozone type stores. They will burn out alot quicker than the motorcraft parts. I have been through 3 cheep boxes that run for a while. I just went through this too and bought a new duraspark box off ebay for $45. Brand new and works fantastic! My car has not run so smooth in years. I highly recommend you get a motorcraft unit.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-82...Q5fAccessories

    good luck.
    Joe E.
    That's real close to what my oem replacement box looks like (except brown tab, wiring, Motorcraft cast-in name).
    Has the smooth housing, no ribs, etched-in p/n.
    I think the original had 'ribs'. There were many versions over the years.
    Someday, the aftermarket may be the last source for these items.
    Looking on Rock Auto for the yellow one, only the Standard and Airtex looked right.
    The Motorcraft picture and p/n looked like the wrong one, even on the Ford site..

  2. #27

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    If you've got an MSD, why not use it?
    Mine has been great for years.

    Check out the adjustabe timing control from your seat.

    Mark

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by mspears View Post
    If you've got an MSD, why not use it?
    Mine has been great for years.

    Check out the adjustabe timing control from your seat.

    Mark
    I saw a car once, it had an MSD wired up from under the driver's seat so it was hidden, and the wires came into the engine bay from under the duraspark box, which was gutted, and came out where the harness normally would. It looked totally stock.
    -EVIL SSP-
    '85 KY Highway Patrol SSP Coupe
    Walk around/exhaust clip

    -David

  4. #29

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    Ford used to sell a Duraspark box with an MSD 6AL already inside it. I have one of these,
    and apart from the rev limiter, I can't say that it made my '85 run any different.

    I'm sure the MSD has more reserve that would come into play at some higher power level,
    but just putting an MSD and/or Blaster coil on an engine with the typical H/C/I mods, the
    only benefit you will see over Duraspark is the rev limiter.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  5. #30
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Can a bad Duraspark module cause stalling when at idle and a hesitation when accelerating? My 79 starts right back up but stalls when you put it in gear, I have to hold my foot on the gas when stopping on the road and apply brakes at the same time to keep it running.

  6. #31

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    Ironhorse,

    That sounds more like a carburetor issue to me. Have you looked at the carb yet?

  7. #32
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    Definitely a carb issue, more so, an adjustment that needs to be made. Likely the idle needs to be bumped up a tad bit.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  8. #33
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    It's not running smoothly and the idle was always fine before this started. Why would the carb all of a sudden act up? I was thinking of trying adjusting the fuel and air screws but it's always ran good just how they were now. I had the ignition module checked and it's okay.

  9. #34
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    Maybe fuel filter?
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  10. #35
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Already changed it. I sprayed some carb cleaner down into the carb and the engine sounded like normal for about 10 seconds and then went back the same way. It's idling rough and when you put it in gear it barely idles. Turned up the idle but that didn't do any good. I never had this problem with this engine before. I installed that carb probably about 15 years ago. Never gave me trouble.

  11. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by ironhorse2 View Post
    Why would the carb all of a sudden act up?

    I was thinking of trying adjusting the fuel and air screws but it's always ran good just how they were now. I had the ignition module checked and it's okay.
    Worn components, and/or adjustments out of adjustment.

    What carburetor? Autolite/Motorcraft, Holley, Edelbrock, or... ? After 15 years of service (constant daily driver, seasonal?), it's likely time for a refresh, a "kit". Neoprene needles and seats especially do not last forever anymore with the 10+% ethanol (garbage) gas we now have. You're thinking is right... the fact you have to stab it here and there, shooting in a bit of fuel with the accelerator pump to keep it running says it's not getting the idle fuel it needs... try adjusting the idle mixture screws equally and for smoothest idle / highest manifold vacuum (in gear, if automatic). Nothing guarantees that spring-loaded Motorcraft/other or corked Holley idle mixture screws stay put where they "should" be or always were. There's too many variables as to what's necessary for idle/off-idle fuel, weather included, and that's why they are adjustable.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by ironhorse2 View Post
    Why would the carb all of a sudden act up?
    The cheap gas of today can go bad quickly and partially clog small passages in the carb. This can lead to the problems that you described. Just using a carb cleaner spray will not fix these types of problems. If you're convinced the problem is not with the carb, I would check the timing and run a leak down test just to make sure the engine is healthy. Keep us up to date on your progress.

  13. #38
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    It's a stock 2 barrel carb that was rebuilt when I bought it. 2150. I think maybe I should try adjusting it or get a kit and rebuild it like you said. One more thing I was wondering is can a failing fuel pump cause symptoms like this? Thanks for the advise Walking-tall and AJ1398.

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by ironhorse2 View Post
    It's a stock 2 barrel carb that was rebuilt when I bought it. 2150. I think maybe I should try adjusting it or get a kit and rebuild it like you said. One more thing I was wondering is can a failing fuel pump cause symptoms like this? Thanks for the advise Walking-tall and AJ1398.
    Absolutely, try adjusting. Open (back out, counterclockwise) both mixture screws another 1/4-turn and see what it does. If it seems to smarten up and like that, warm up the engine to it's usual operating (thermostat-open) temperature, set the parking brake or block the wheels or have somebody inside with their foot on the brakes, put the car in Drive, see that the idle speed screw is set in the neighborhood of the engine's idle speed being 500rpm in Drive, and then adjust the mixture screws slowly inward until the idle slows/roughens, then slowly back them out about 1/4-turn from there, listening for whatever amount the two of them adjusted out equally runs the smoothest. Readjust the idle speed if necessary.

    If the fuel pump is terribly bad, with a VERY low float bowl fuel level, yes to such symptoms... but a fuel pump getting tired but not dead yet will show it's face first by not being able to adequately supply the main metering system (the boosters in the venturi throats), with a too-low float/fuel level. It doesn't take a whole lot of fuel level to supply the idle system.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 06-12-2017 at 11:53 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  15. #40
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Once again thanks for the info! I'm going to try adjusting and see what happens.

  16. #41
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Tried adjusting carb in both directions and got very little improvement with idle turned up a bit. Idled in gear but up and down idle and very slow. Thinking about maybe getting another carb. Installed a new pcv valve just to make sure that it's okay.

  17. #42

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    Sounds like maybe it's "carb kit" time. Sounds like dirt floating around blocking this that or the other, who knows where... Very slow is fine, as long as it runs nice...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  18. #43
    FEP Member ironhorse2's Avatar
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    Can the electric choke on my carb be installed on a carb with the heat assisted type? I found a pretty nice deal on a carb but it has the old type choke assembly.

  19. #44

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    Should be able to, yes, the cap itself or the whole side choke housing and cap.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

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