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  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by negusm View Post
    You need to whack the bolt out with a BFH. It will take the edges of the threads off. You can then replace the bushing.

    Or you can go to the Help section in Advance Auto and just buy the whole unit for $7.

    -Mike
    Or a piece of polyethylene sprinkler riser pipe...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  2. #27

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    I added the MM subframe connectors also last week. The car did not rattle any more or less (maybe less). oh i did add new ford LCA, that helped the ride quality a bit.
    Last edited by BossCobra; 03-12-2010 at 01:08 AM.

  3. #28
    FEP Power Member downtime!'s Avatar
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    Drove mine today for the first time since putting the SFC's on and it actually seemed to rattle less. Of course, I've done a lot of door and hatch adjusting in the time she was on jack stands too. Still have a drivers door window rattle, but I suspect the completely missing window run channel may have something to do with that!
    Bryan
    1985 LTD Police Package

  4. #29
    leebingate
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    For the latch bushings, I use a piece of flexible HDPE sprinkler head tubing from Lowe'sDepot.
    The tubing is smooth, black, and has the correct ID to fit the striker bolt. It's a bit larger
    on the OD though, so the door tends to be a bit stiff opening and closing until the tubing
    takes a set. It's a quick repair, and makes for a bit quieter latch sound than the hard
    plastic bushings. And you don't have to remove the striker bolt.

  5. #30
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    I just purchase the correct latches from our sponsors lol

  6. #31

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    I've got an 86' GT with some frustrating door rattles as well. I've got new weather stripping, dew wipes, inner belt seal, hinge bushings, and new striker all installed. My issue seems to be the wire connections inside. I can see the weird little plastic connections (I know, scientific terminology) and they are either worn out of I'm missing something. My next avenue of attack is to try and remove all the wires and wrap them in fabric tape, reinstall, and do a Hail Mary. Any advice is always welcome!

  7. #32
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oberu View Post
    I've got an 86' GT with some frustrating door rattles as well. I've got new weather stripping, dew wipes, inner belt seal, hinge bushings, and new striker all installed. My issue seems to be the wire connections inside. I can see the weird little plastic connections (I know, scientific terminology) and they are either worn out of I'm missing something. My next avenue of attack is to try and remove all the wires and wrap them in fabric tape, reinstall, and do a Hail Mary. Any advice is always welcome!
    That is an option, but I would consider sound deadening matt first. Even if you don't want to sound deaden the entire door you can use the material to hold down the wiring so it will not rattle and make noise. You can also use it over the open door shell to shield/insulate against noise,heat, cold, etc. You can also install a layer on the backside of the door panel itself (as long as it isn't too thick) to add to the sound deadening.

    I also wouldn't be surprised if the door latch/lock rods are your issue more than the wiring. I generally slit some vacuum hose and wrap it around all the metal rods that can make contact with metal or anything that will give a reasonance. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I also wouldn't be surprised if the door latch/lock rods are your issue more than the wiring. I generally slit some vacuum hose and wrap it around all the metal rods that can make contact with metal or anything that will give a reasonance. Good Luck!
    Great idea! Thanks for the advice
    79 Zephyr, 4v/4r70w swap planned, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs.

  9. #34

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    Thanks Wraith, you've been helping me a ton lately and I appreciate it. When I said wire.. probably should have said small round bar(rod) linkages.. that's what I was referring to. I have a heater and that's about all the options I have on my stang. I've been scraping, hammering, and generally beating my head against the factory sound deadening on the floor pans and I'm getting there slowly. I was so excited to see that the pans were not rusted out. As soon as I finish removing the old I've got new ready to install with some strategic neoprene overlaid, and the heavier carpet with the mass backing. I'm planning to work the doors over the best that I can. Thanks again!
    Last edited by Oberu; 10-12-2021 at 08:38 PM. Reason: I'm a doofus

  10. #35
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Glad I can help. I know some recommend dry ice on the OEM insulation to help with removal. Not sure if since most of my vehicles are from TX, but my insulation usually just pulls up with the carpet or peels off the floor pan. A few times, I have used a heat gun to help soften some for removal too. Hope things go well with the removal. I am sure you will appreciate the difference of new sound deadening and the new carpet!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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