Rockers and Clutch pedals

[mercuryzephyrz7]

Two simple questions. First: On a 302 roller motor, how tight should the rocker bolts be? Is there a torque setting or anything?


Second: When getting a clutch pedal from a donor car do I need the entire pedal assembly, or can I just take out the clutch pedal and related parts without removing the steering column and whatnot?

[4eyed4life]

Pedals: You gotta drop the column...the pedals are an assembly. gotta take the whole thing!

[mercuryzephyrz7]

OK Cool thanks!! I just didn't want to do unnecessary work unless it was....well....necessary lol.

[ZeuS]

As far as the rocker bolts go......... 0 lash on the pushrod to arm then 1/4 turn. Stock rockers or aftermarket?? Im used to 1.7 crane RR.

Zo

[mercuryzephyrz7]

Stock rockers. Excuse my ignorance here but what is lash?

[RacinNdrummin]

Pedestal rockers are just torqued to 25 lb/ft...

There is no 1/4 turn stuff or anything like that. Thats the adjustment method for stud type rockers.

[gofastlookstock]

Pedestal rockers are just torqued to 25 lb/ft...

There is no 1/4 turn stuff or anything like that. Thats the adjustment method for stud type rockers.

I'm sorry, but I disagree. You still need the 1/4 turn preload as mentioned above. Crane sells shims to place under the rocker pedestal to achieve the proper lifter preload. Just torquing to 25 lb/ft could result in lifter damage or at the least...poor performance.

[mercuryzephyrz7]

Also....how on earth do I get the pedal assembly out?! I have been fiddling with it for a day or two and I just can't see what i'm missing. Steering is down, nuts on firewall and under dash are undone, brake pedal undone....is there a trick to this?

[4eyed4life]

there's always more nuts to be undone lol. Keep lookin.

[ZeuS]

Stock rockers. Excuse my ignorance here but what is lash?

0 Lash is

when the cam is on the base of the rotation for any cyl, (both valves closed) and the pushrod is just snug (no play) between the lifter and rocker arm.

Now when you get this point, do you torque to 25lbs ,THEN 1/4 turn or just 1/4 turn......i dont remember??

[RacinNdrummin]

I'm sorry, but I disagree. You still need the 1/4 turn preload as mentioned above. Crane sells shims to place under the rocker pedestal to achieve the proper lifter preload. Just torquing to 25 lb/ft could result in lifter damage or at the least...poor performance.

Lifters have a huge amount of free play (relatively of course), the only way you will damage your lifters is if you use the wrong length pushrods. Ford lifters will soak up the tolerances of any production pedestal rocker head using the factory pushrods and std base circle cam (provided the heads arent decked some obscene amount).

Obviously things change if you add things like massive decking, and reduced base circle cams, but once you get into that, your measuring for new pushrods anyway.

On a stockish factory setup, simply torquing to 25 lb/ft is sufficient.

For example, my 306 with .020 GT40 heads, zero decked block, felpro 1011, TFS-1 cam and cobra rockers was just fine with stock length pushrods.

As long as you can see some visual preload at the lifter, youll be fine.

[ZeuS]

Lifters have a huge amount of free play (relatively of course), the only way you will damage your lifters is if you use the wrong length pushrods. Ford lifters will soak up the tolerances of any production pedestal rocker head using the factory pushrods and std base circle cam (provided the heads arent decked some obscene amount).

Obviously things change if you add things like massive decking, and reduced base circle cams, but once you get into that, your measuring for new pushrods anyway.

On a stockish factory setup, simply torquing to 25 lb/ft is sufficient.

For example, my 306 with .020 GT40 heads, zero decked block, felpro 1011, TFS-1 cam and cobra rockers was just fine with stock length pushrods.

As long as you can see some visual preload at the lifter, youll be fine.

x2...

[gofastlookstock]

Lifters have a huge amount of free play (relatively of course), the only way you will damage your lifters is if you use the wrong length pushrods. Ford lifters will soak up the tolerances of any production pedestal rocker head using the factory pushrods and std base circle cam (provided the heads arent decked some obscene amount).

Obviously things change if you add things like massive decking, and reduced base circle cams, but once you get into that, your measuring for new pushrods anyway.

On a stockish factory setup, simply torquing to 25 lb/ft is sufficient.

For example, my 306 with .020 GT40 heads, zero decked block, felpro 1011, TFS-1 cam and cobra rockers was just fine with stock length pushrods.

As long as you can see some visual preload at the lifter, youll be fine.

I see your point and agree.
In the past, I've run into a couple of situations where I've had what I consider excessive preload ( usually on higher mileage engines...that may have had a valve job or two in the past) sometimes 1/2-3/4 of a turn past initial preload. This why I use the shims to make the preload equal. This is just something that works for me....quite possible that I'm picky about my preload...lol!