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  1. #1

    Default Bouncing steering wheel

    I am not talking an out of balance wheel shake, I am talking like a 110 pound stripper with 30 pound ass kind of shake. It goes up and down and all around, and no matter what I try it still shakes at highway speeds. The one thing I havent changed yet are the steering rack bushing, they are new but not offset. I guess since it has 95 Cobra spindles and balljoints the geometry is different that stock spindles, maybe casuing my ba-donka donk shake. Any other input would appreciated.


    PS: Sorry if its the wrong section, I'm a newb

  2. #2

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    I have no help for you,

    but the description of the shake had me LMFAO!
    '85 ASC McLaren coupe
    EFI conversion
    Twisted Wedge heads, etc...
    13.2@105

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
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    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/forumdisplay.php?f=83
    Would be the ideal forum for suspension.

    I would advise NOT installing offset rack bushings on a factory K member.

    What other changes or modifications have you done?(suspension wise)
    How old are the front hubs? And are they torqued to spec?
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD MIKE View Post
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/forumdisplay.php?f=83
    Would be the ideal forum for suspension.

    I would advise NOT installing offset rack bushings on a factory K member.

    What other changes or modifications have you done?(suspension wise)
    How old are the front hubs? And are they torqued to spec?
    This car has had a lot of different suspensions on it, and wheels. The hubs were newish last I saw ( I knew the previous owner) when the spindles were swapped out. It did this on the stock stuff with mild lowering. I have even tightened down the steering rack supports and all. Currently the car has some adjustable struts one them and I dont know who makes them or how to adjust them ( havent really has time as winter sucks my left taint area). The suspension is heavily after market now except the stock lower control arms.


    The reason on NOT installing the rack bushing yet IS because there are mixed reveiws on doing so with a stock K member. Now since the 95 Cobra spindles change the geometry alot of folks say its necessary and some say "No way Jose". I havent made up my mind yet.

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCHMUCKINGHAM View Post
    The suspension is heavily after market now except the stock lower control arms.
    What kind of bushings are in the control arms? How old?
    What kind of BJs are you using? How old?
    What wheels tires are you using? etc etc.
    Lay it all out what is under the nose and how old it is.
    Quote Originally Posted by SCHMUCKINGHAM View Post
    The reason on NOT installing the rack bushing yet IS because there are mixed reveiws on doing so with a stock K member.
    If you are using an unmodified stock Fox Chassis K member stick with non-offset R&P bushings. Only use the offset bushings if you have relocated the attachment points of the FLCAs on the K member.
    Quote Originally Posted by SCHMUCKINGHAM View Post
    Now since the 95 Cobra spindles change the geometry alot of folks say its necessary and some say "No way Jose". I havent made up my mind yet.
    Before there was a '95 Cobra, or a '94 Mustang, there was the '93 Mustang Cobra R. This car came from the factory with what is known as SN95 Cobra brakes, or what can be purchased as the M-2300-K.
    There were no offset R&P bushings used. No need for them. Offsetting the rack on an unmodified K member will create issues.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member 86capriASC's Avatar
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    I'm running offset rack bushing on my stock K and no problems here.
    Mike

    1986 ASCMclaren #108
    stock short block, Victor EFI, 75mm TB, 3.08's, Borla cat-back, slot style MAF conversion, Gt-40p heads, TFS1 cam, 80lb injectors, 69mm turbo, Moates Quaterhorse, E85. 501/584 @ the rear wheels

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86capriASC View Post
    I'm running offset rack bushing on my stock K and no problems here.
    Why?
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  8. #8

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    Everything in the front end is new. 95 Cobra spindles and brakes, 03/04 Cobra wheels, Koni adjustables, Eibach Pro Kit, SN balljoints, tie rods are also new.


    They suggest running on offset rack bushing due to the 95 spindle moving the tie rod to a better geometry

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86capriASC View Post
    I'm running offset rack bushing on my stock K and no problems here.
    I have lowered two of my Capris and have offset rack bushings installed on both with the stock K member. It hasn't caused any problems for me either. MAD MIKE, just curious what problems you think it causes by doing this, cuz I can't think of ANY.
    '86 Capri 5.0, black with charcoal interior, 5 spd, fully restored, mildly modded.

    '86 Capri 5.0, white with black interior, C4, rotisserie restored, heavily modded.

  10. #10

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    So, if you grab the steering wheel and tug on it, does it flop around? May be just loose
    column bolts, especially if this is a tilt wheel.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
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  11. #11
    FEP Super Member 86capriASC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD MIKE View Post
    Why?
    Lowered
    Mike

    1986 ASCMclaren #108
    stock short block, Victor EFI, 75mm TB, 3.08's, Borla cat-back, slot style MAF conversion, Gt-40p heads, TFS1 cam, 80lb injectors, 69mm turbo, Moates Quaterhorse, E85. 501/584 @ the rear wheels

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    So, if you grab the steering wheel and tug on it, does it flop around? May be just loose
    column bolts, especially if this is a tilt wheel.
    Ill try that next time I get in it, hopefully the whole steering column doesnt come with it

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member yodaddyz82gt's Avatar
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    mine was doin that "hop thing" at highway speeds over 65mph, but then i got new BJs installed, alignment new tires and problem solved. course i dont have a tilt steerin'
    82GTflossin


    Rebuilt 302,rebuilt 8.8 w 373s,JBAs, true dual exhaust flowmasters,T5 w/Hurst Short Shifter and a few more xtras..

    future upgrades: front/rear coilovers,15:1 rack,4bbl, rebuilding 89 susp with new bushings,85 carb/intake conv,jet glossy black new paint with custom graphics..

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    I have what I would call a "sensitive" steering wheel, where it'll move really easily from bumps or vibration. This thread: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=88197 may hold an interesting solution to the problem, though I have no idea where to get the part.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by capri debris View Post
    MAD MIKE, just curious what problems you think it causes by doing this, cuz I can't think of ANY.
    The FLCA and tie-rod need to move together in parallel to prevent bump-steer. The factory does have an acceptable amount of bumpsteer designed into the suspension. You can improve on the slight bumpsteer that is in the factory design with a bumpsteer kit. This kit replaces the outer tie-rod with a spherical rod end, a long bolt and spacers. Using a bumpsteer gauge you can measure how much bumpsteer you have and reduce it by adding spacers between the steering knuckle, and the spherical rod end. Obviously it would be best to use a single spacer cut to the appropriate length to eliminate any movement that is in the spacer stack.

    If you change the rack location, which changes the inner tie rod location, you have taken the R&P out of alignment on the K member side. There is no need to do this with an unmodified K member.
    You will be creating more bumpsteer by relocating the R&P.

    The geometry between '78-'95 Fox Chassis is similar.
    With the introduction of the 4.6 in '96 the R&P had to be lowered to clear the engine. The '96-'04 spindles have a different steering arm on them to accommodate the change. The rack was lowered 1" so the steering knuckles had to be lowered 1". This is why on a stock Fox Chassis K member one should not use '96-'04 spindles. Where you need the outer tie-rod located is where the steering knuckle is. And there is no way to lower an R&P that much on a stock Fox K member without severe modification to the K member.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  16. #16
    FEP Power Member qtrracer's Avatar
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    You are certain it has 95 spindles? Check the MM site for comparison pics (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...tification.php) and an explanation why using the 96+ spindle on a pre-96 k-memeber car presentes many problems (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...le_warning.php) Finally, to correct some bumpsteer without the guage, try to get the bottom of the control arm and the steering arm to be parallel to each other (not the ground) at ride hight.

    For those who have off-set poly rack bushings, there are two issues: (i) the likely bumpsteer this causes and (ii) due to the radical off-center hole, the thin portion of the poly bushing moves in the mount causing rack-shift and of course, the attendent change in alignment settings. Stockers are better on a stock k-member.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by qtrracer View Post
    You are certain it has 95 spindles? Check the MM site for comparison pics (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...tification.php) and an explanation why using the 96+ spindle on a pre-96 k-memeber car presentes many problems (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...le_warning.php) Finally, to correct some bumpsteer without the guage, try to get the bottom of the control arm and the steering arm to be parallel to each other (not the ground) at ride hight.

    For those who have off-set poly rack bushings, there are two issues: (i) the likely bumpsteer this causes and (ii) due to the radical off-center hole, the thin portion of the poly bushing moves in the mount causing rack-shift and of course, the attendent change in alignment settings. Stockers are better on a stock k-member.
    These are 95 Cobra spindles, not 96+. I took the steering wheel off and the entire column seems to move alot. Almost like the mounts are loose or something

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