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  1. #1

    Default Gas pedal is a little too firm?

    Just like the title says, my gas pedal is pretty stiff throughout the stroke. Also, when the pedal is in its highest position, it gets kind of 'stuck' and requires me to push it down actually quite hard. I know this is all mechanical but just wanted to see if ya'll have remedied this problem in the past or something.

    I sprayed the linkages around the carb down with WD-40 and that didn't really help... What if I cut a couple coils off the throttle spring?

    Thanks in advance guys

  2. #2

    Default

    Disconnect the cable from the carb, and then work the cable and see if it it what is hanging up.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by grabbergreen84 View Post
    Disconnect the cable from the carb, and then work the cable and see if it it what is hanging up.
    Yep, I would think this is the most likely cause. It's been my experience that this happens not long before the cable snaps.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  4. #4

    Default

    Forget about WD-40, it's water based. Ask me how I know. Lubrication is the word of the day, and is what is OFTEN lacking in any cable situation. Un-attach the under-hood end of the throttle cable and up-end and give it a good drink of oil and work it back and forth good.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #5
    FEP Member 9D83's Avatar
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    Default

    Maybe 2 different things going on-cable binding and a stiffer spring. Agree re checking and lubricating cable first but I can say my 79 had a noticably stiffer feel than all the 82,83 and later 5L cars I drove. It was almost coarser with tip in more abrupt

  6. #6

    Default

    For sure about the WD-40, I know it's not a repair, just happened to be convenient at the time.

    >It was almost coarser with tip in more abrupt
    This right here. Really kinda have to push it and that makes it hard to drive smoothly!

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member BlackMamba's Avatar
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    Default

    I have the same issue with my 86 and the quick spray with WD40 didn't help either. Haven't really looked into it as I don't drive the car much but it has the same signs and symptoms as the OP.
    Current Cars:
    1979 Mustang Ghia Coupe 5.0 3J Bright Blue
    1984 GT T top 306 5 speed "Black Mamba"
    1986 Saleen Black with Silver Stripes 86#009
    1986 Mustang GT Medium Canyon Red 5 speed 5.0
    1999 Mustang GT Convertible 35th anniversary 69K miles.
    2002 Nissan Maxima 6 Speed "Daily Driver"
    2009 Corvette 6 speed LS3

    1998 Cobra 71k miles Canary Yellow "Nana" SOLD

  8. #8

    Default

    Sticking throttle off idle can be caused by misaligned throttle blades. You can verify this by popping the
    throttle cable off the carburetor arm, then push the throttle to the idle stop (make sure the choke is open).
    Then, gently pull the throttle open a bit. It should not stick at all. If it does, you will need to remove the
    carburetor and re-align the throttle blades.

    To realign the throttle blades, you back the idle speed screw out, then loosen the throttle blade screws and
    position them so that they seat fully into the throttle bores. Then, while holding the blades closed by the
    throttle shaft, tighten the screws. They will still stick at this point, because they're all the way closed. But
    once the idle speed is adjusted back to normal, they should not stick.

    I have also seen where the throttle blades were closed down all the way to compensate for a vacuum leak.
    If that's your situation, there's probably no need to realign the blades, just find and correct the source of
    the extra idle air.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

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