It's very annoying. It's not the glass, but the plastic interior trim pieces where the lock handle is located. Anyone have any tips on how to keep these from rattling? (86 Capri)
Thanks.
-Jh
It's very annoying. It's not the glass, but the plastic interior trim pieces where the lock handle is located. Anyone have any tips on how to keep these from rattling? (86 Capri)
Thanks.
-Jh
most likely the plastic pieces are missing part of the plastic where the rod goes in. U might want to remove them and check. My driver t-top was doing the same thing, i fixed it by replacing the plastic piece
393 Stroke
5-speed/4:10's
holley 750dp
ford racing headers
msd 6al, msd wires and blaster coil
Edelbrock performer rpm heads w/roller rockers
red holley electric fuel pump
rear upper & lower control arms
89 saleen Differential 5 lug
sn95 front 5 lug conversion
I added small strips of dyna mat to the backside of the plastics
Cool, thanks guys.
Bit off subject.... but how well does the dynomat work anyway? I've been thinking about lining my hatch floor. MAC's plus Hpipe = LOUD inside.
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was in 3rd gear, right foot to the floor and Cones where flying!
1)who cares if you don't like my functional illiterate
2)if i write like a 2nd grader, isn't that still better than texting?
3)yes ,i'm a French-fry short of a happy meal.
4)Statistically speaking, six out of seven dwarfs aren't Happy
Last edited by rancheronut; 11-21-2009 at 09:40 PM. Reason: where elmo
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was in 3rd gear, right foot to the floor and Cones where flying!
1)who cares if you don't like my functional illiterate
2)if i write like a 2nd grader, isn't that still better than texting?
3)yes ,i'm a French-fry short of a happy meal.
4)Statistically speaking, six out of seven dwarfs aren't Happy
I was thinking more on the lines of just take them out. That's how your supposed to drive a t top car anyway,isn't it?!
^^^BINGO^^^ Or just turn up the radio
My car is basically new with only 14k miles and they rattle like crazy too. I was already thinking of the dynomat trick...this just solidifies the idea for me
Jason Smith
MCA #65481
'82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
'88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
'93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,800 Mile Original Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2019 Best Original 87-93)
'05 S-281 Mineral Grey
go th your local glass shop and see if the will give you some setting blocks.they are rubber wedge them in. or shoot some silicon in a couple spots that wont be seen?
good luck
Mine used to rattle like crazy. Hardly ever does now that subframe connectors are welded in place. Kind of off topic but since it was brought up...Dynamat works pretty well, but it's certainly not going to get rid of exhaust drone. I have an off road pipe with high flow (basically didn't change the sound at all once installed) magnaflow spun metallic cats welded into it, and a dynomax super turbo 2.5" cat back. Even with Fatmat rattle trap sound (similar to dynamat but 1/2 the price) deadener installed lining the entire trunk, insides of rear quarters, and the floors/rockers up to under the front seats it didn't get rid of the 2K rpm drone. Branch resonators did, but it also made the exhaust so quiet I hated it. I'm hoping 22" long magnaflows are the answer. That's what i'm trying next.
We have a T-top manual uploaded that is supposed to deal more with leaks, but there may be something in it that can also help with rattles, or at least pulling things apart and putting them back together when you're looking to quiet them: http://foureyedpride.com/fep_bild/v/...ch/troof_leak/
Dynamat works great, but to answer your question... I have the same rattle, only because I'm lazy. The reason the tops' plastics are rattling are because there's a seal that surrounds the opening for the LATCH HANDLE opening that is either non-existent, or worn to the point where it's not working anymore. They look like a 6 inch long rectangle with a long "T" slot cut in the middle that the latch handle slides through. The whole reason for those seals is to prevent the rattle that you're hearing.
FMR sells those seals on e-bay for 8.95 (*pr or single, can't remember) and again, I just haven't gottent around to ordering them yet. Forget dynamat on those... that's not really the purpose of dynamat for that type of rattle. Just order the seals and I promise the rattle will stop.
SI
and did I mention Dynamat works great.. see other thread about dynamat in my 82.
L8r
Smile, it's an easy thing you have complete control over that takes less work than the alternative.
Have:
'82 GT T-top #24 Red x 2
take off the exhaust from the cat back and you won't notice it anymore.worked for my 87 with ttops.plus now it makes small children cry.
on mine,I noticed that the screw that hold the plastic trim bottomed out and wasnt holding the trim secure.I think I put a little felt washer in between and it has been fine. I do understand about the seal though,and will probably be doing mine soon.
This is what I used and my tops are currently rattle free even with 330K miles:
http://www.crazypc.com/store/merchan...Category_Code=
It's called seal string and it's a black sticky putty that does wonders. You can even roll it into smaller strings. Take this and mold it around the inside of the plastic components where they meet other plastic components (such as the trim around the t-top lock and the rubber gaskets) and the noise will be gone... guaranteed.
This stuff also does wonders on the A/C system vent system, taillight lenses and a host of other places where you want the joins to be air and watertight but not permanent.
As has been said, sub-frame connectors help tremendously in the t-top rattle issues.
Also, what I've found is I regularly spray silicone on the rubbers and some lithium grease in the holes where the t-tops are held. Never makes a mess and really makes it almost rattle free.
I also changes my shocks. That made a difference too.
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