HELP!! New Intake + Smog Equipment Removal...Car won't fire

[oxytousc]

Yeah, cats are still in

[LOWCOP]

check post # 3

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...ds-needed.html

[oxytousc]

Thanks LOWCOP...I am going to try to take the cat off tomorrow and see if it fires up...will keep everyone posted

[LOWCOP]

take that sylenoid thingy off too, i would say its prolly closed choking it off

[85_GT]

i don't believe the solenoids in the exhaust are your problem, it sound like they are actually oxygen sensors which are not used on a carbed engine. the exhaust may have come from another car to have these o2 sensors.

[LOWCOP]

i don't believe the solenoids in the exhaust are your problem, it sound like they are actually oxygen sensors which are not used on a carbed engine. the exhaust may have come from another car to have these o2 sensors.

i was thinking that is what he was talking about at first but i was not sure. like i said, i have never heard of these solenoids so i didnt know where they are

[LOWCOP]

Thanks LOWCOP...I am going to try to take the cat off tomorrow and see if it fires up...will keep everyone posted

get a pic of what you are talking about, that may help more

[oxytousc]

I take it back, they aren't solenoids...its simply where the headers attach to the downpipe, it looked like it might be a solenoid. That does leave that CAT issue, which could be clogging it I would think.

Although, I would've still thought it should fire or backfire with EZ start?

[jayhawk261]

Is the item in this thread what you are talking about? The exhaust flapper valves?

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...manifold+valve

[oxytousc]

Yes, that's exactly what I am talking about

[jayhawk261]

According to the description in that thread (I know NOTHING about these!) it closes when cold and re-routes exhaust through the intake manifold and the heads to warm the engine up quicker. With the new manifold, there is probably no longer a duct, and if these are closed, it could be causing your blockage. Might be worth unbolting the exhaust and trying to start it open manifold just to check.

[JACook]

If there's no vacuum to the flapper, it will be open. And I'm not sure why anyone
would be thinking the cats got clogged during an intake manifold swap. I'm presuming
the engine ran fine before all this work was done?

This has firing order problem written all over it...

[biz jet tech]

This has firing order problem written all over it...

That is what I said earlier...... Also, the items you guys are talking about are often called heat risers. If you want you can remove them, knock out the guts and re-install them. Unless you live in a cold climate and drive the car you wont need them. If they seize in the closed position they can cause problems. But I still think you have issues with your distributor installation. Did you turn the engine through after you removed the distributor?

[jayhawk261]

Firing order or bad distributor install was my first thought as well. He said he checked it, so I assumed it was right. As far as the flappers go, the only thing I know about them is that they work better in the bin! I guess what JACook is saying is that they actuate by vacuum once the engine is started which would mean there is no chance they are the culprit. Time to pull the distributor again, make sure the #1 is at TDC of the power stroke and reinstall making sure you double check the firing order as you go. Make sure you have the firing order correct in the correct direction around the distributor too. I wired a BBC one time with the correct firing order but took it in the wrong direction around the distributor! I didn't have much experience with chevys at the time, but plenty with ford!

[wesb1023]

This has firing order problem written all over it...[/QUOTE]

WORD!

When u get the distributer and firing order correct, try moving the distributer clockwise a little & try it again. If you are setting the timing by looking at the rotor button to cap position -you are way off time!!!

[kingstang]

This has firing order problem written all over it...

WORD!



I agree..................re-set your timing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[zac_f83]

i have a 83 GT with all but the egr (not hooked up)removed and it runs great i say ditch the cats for a off road h pipe and cap the rest of the smog stuff off at the back of the heads

and when you try to start it are you turning the dizzy back and forth? i had to do that with my 87 GT and it fired right up

[oxytousc]

This has firing order problem written all over it...

WORD!

When u get the distributer and firing order correct, try moving the distributer clockwise a little & try it again. If you are setting the timing by looking at the rotor button to cap position -you are way off time!!![/QUOTE]

What should I be timing off of then? I marked the rotor and cap and moved to the timing mark...again this is my first project so any help is much appreciated

[zac_f83]

with the motor at TDC (top dead center) on the No.1 cylinder

when reinserting the dizzy in the block you have to turn the rotor CCW a few teeth cause it will correct itself going in the block(the rotor will turn CW from going in the cam) gear to the No.1 position

i think thats how it is it could be the other way around i havent done it in so long and am about to do it on my 83 so now im paying attention haha

[4wheeldevil]

i have heard that it is counter clock wise so i think you are correct

[Fabiodriven]

Definitely sounds like the distributor was installed on the wrong tooth or when you installed the plug wires, you did them clockwise. The firing order goes counter-clockwise on the distributor. I installed them clockwise on my 390 when I was a kid and all it would do is shoot fireballs through the carb.

[oxytousc]

Can someone give me the best method for making sure I am on TDC on the correct stroke?

[Fabiodriven]

If you don't want to take your valve cover off, pull the #1 spark plug. Turn the engine over with a bar while you have your finger in the plug hole. When the compression starts to build and air starts hissing by your finger the piston is on it's way up. Then look in the hole until the piston reaches the top of it's travel. Now look at the timing mark on the balancer and get it to TDC. Now line up the contact on the rotor with whatever lead on the distributor you have your #1 plug wire on. Remember, the distributor rotates counter-clockwise.

[jayhawk261]

Pull the valve cover. Rotate the engine until the #1 piston is at at TDC and both valves on the #1 cylinder are closed. You are now at TDC of the power stroke. You can use a screw driver or other small object to tap the top of the piston through the spark plug hole to be sure the piston is at TDC.

[69SCJ]

If you don't want to take your valve cover off, pull the #1 spark plug. Turn the engine over with a bar while you have your finger in the plug hole. When the compression starts to build and air starts hissing by your finger the piston is on it's way up. Then look in the hole until the piston reaches the top of it's travel. Now look at the timing mark on the balancer and get it to TDC. Now line up the contact on the rotor with whatever lead on the distributor you have your #1 plug wire on. Remember, the distributor rotates counter-clockwise.

This is the way I have done it for years. Works great. Once I realize I'm on the compression stroke I set a screw driver in the spark plug hole so I can watch the piston push it up to TDC. You can't always rely on the balancer marks as they may have moved on an older one.

Once you know you have TDC just make sure when you drop the dizzy that the rotor ends up on the no. 1 wire. If you miss it just pick the dizzy up and rotate a tooth or two and drop again.

It may still take someone rotating the dizzy slightly while cranking to get it close enought to run. Once running it can be set perfect.

Tyler