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  1. #1

    Default Took my Crimson Cat to my schools auto shop.....

    I took my Capri to my schools auto tech shop. and they told me I need a new rack and pinion. But I got some pics...



    ^^^^vvvv Looking at my car in 1st period and my friend holding my car
    also the white 67 is my friends.

    vvvv my friend who drives the 67





    vvvvv Rear end leaking



    ^v^v^v^v my rack and pinion leaking around the left boot

    This guy staring blankly into my rims. lololol
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

  2. #2

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    Also, what brand do you recommend and how much is it for a new rack and pinion?
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

  3. #3

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    see, that's what I'm talking about. Stands out from all the other cookie cutter crap cars. Must be a sweet feeling huh?

    All I know is if I did something similar, I'd be walking around with the biggest prybar and if any one touched my car .... I mean have fun!
    MY GARAGE | SUPPORT THE 2.3
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top
    1993 Reef Blue LX 2.3 5spd

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    I got a rebuilt one at Pep Boys. $80 or $90. I'm not one for buying parts store reman stuff, but my buddy worked in the shop at Pep Boys, grabbed it off the shelf, and threw it in there while he was doing my outer tie rods. It's been good so far...3 years later.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible

    Stock and original @ 205k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  5. #5

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    lol. I don't like parking in my schools parking lot because if you think about it you have at least 200 inexperienced drivers parking at the same time. (I'm not saying that I am experienced but I do feel I am more experienced than others at my school) its SCARY when you are leaving or coming to school.
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85stanggt View Post
    I got a rebuilt one at Pep Boys. $80 or $90. I'm not one for buying parts store reman stuff, but my buddy worked in the shop at Pep Boys, grabbed it off the shelf, and threw it in there while he was doing my outer tie rods. It's been good so far...3 years later.

    hmmm. I'll try that. I agree I dont really like getting reman stuff either.
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

  7. #7

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    better get that exhaust away from your rear end that causes leaks and can burn up a traction lok in no time heat kills em fast
    MANY 4I parts for Sale Which are here
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Parts-For-Sale
    Email Me @ 8286gtguy@gmail.com if interested in Parts THX

  8. #8

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    wow I just noticed that. thanks for telling me.
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

  9. #9

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    Go with a Flaming River or Summit Racing manual steering rack. These cars are light enough, that you really don't need the power steering. It's one less thing that you won't ever haft to worry about it developing a leak. Plus, it saves a little bit of weight.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    good thing you don't have safety checks. that exhaust would never pass here, exhaust has to exit at the perimeter of the body by our rules.

    you must breathe lots of fumes with it like that. i get a fair amount, and i have tail pipes and a tight exhaust system.

    nice clean lookin car tho!

    cale

  11. #11

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    o really? I found exhaust (muffler to exhaust tip) for my car for $5 so I am going to put that on soon.
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Also, for the rear end leak, it could be your pinion seal or just leaking past the pinion nut. When I changed my pinion seal, the rear still leaked, and I couldn't figure out why until I read in the Ford shop manuals that on high mileage cars RTV should be applied to the nut and companion flange to keep the fluid from leaking out through the nut. As soon as I did that, it stopped leaking. Been solid for a long time now.

    Every time that nut comes off, I have to make sure it has RTV on it or it'll leak.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible

    Stock and original @ 205k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  13. #13

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    ok thanks for the info!
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by 83_crimsoncat View Post
    hmmm. I'll try that. I agree I dont really like getting reman stuff either.
    I feel like I need to stick up for reman parts here, although I should be honest and tell you that my dad works for Cardone which is one of if not the largest parts remanufacturer in the country. If you buy reman parts at a chain store, i.e. Pep Boys, AutoZone, Napa, Advance, O'reilley's, etc., chances are you are buying Cardone parts. Cardone actually reengineers many of the parts that they remanufacture - they have teams of engineers that study what it is that makes a parts fail and they improve on the design if they can. I put a Cardone reman rack in my '85, upgrading it to the 15:1 GT rack in the process, and I think the part was only like $50 (my dad gets a substantial employee discount).
    I would rather have a quality reman part at 1/3 the cost of new made in China stuff of questionable quality...
    '85 coupe - It's ALIVE!!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnu4w_5P284
    Originally a 4 cyl / auto car; now has an '87 Roller motor topped by a Weiand Action Plus and a Holley 600; backed by a rebuit T-5. Also has shorty headers, an off road X-pipe, and a MAC cat back exhaust.
    Still needs paint (Medium Canyon Red Metallic) and interior work (Sand Beige). Would like to upgrade the suspension and brakes as well...
    **SIGH** So much to do, so little time (and money!)

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    can you just remove the nut to change the seal? i have heard you can't do that because it will mess with the pinion depth, etc.

    cale

  16. #16

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    I wouldn't spend any money fixing a leaky 7.5. I'd use it as an excuse to upgrade to a 8.8.
    Last edited by Jimmy2.3Mustang; 05-09-2011 at 12:27 AM.
    1986 Mustang Notch, 2.3L Turbo Project

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member bigjason_5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cb84capri View Post
    can you just remove the nut to change the seal? i have heard you can't do that because it will mess with the pinion depth, etc.

    cale
    It won't mess with the pinion depth. Pinion depth is set by shims underneath the inside tapered roller bearing. The only issue is with the crush sleeve. You are not supposed to back off the pinion nut and retighten it without replacing the crush sleeve. The crush sleeve is supposed to keep outward pressure on the bearings, which transfers to the flange and nut itself in order to keep resistance on the nut so it does not back off. If you remove it, the only way (in theory) to regain this pressure is to tighten it until the sleeve begins to crush again. Unfortunately, that would make the bearings tighter, which could cause premature wear. To be honest, if you put some RTV where the nut sits to insure you won't have a leak there, and put a bit of lock tight on the pinion threads, you should be ok. The only thing is, you are supposed to check rotating resistance to determine it has been properly torqued, and you can't do that with the ring gear installed. You can always use your best guess/judgement, if you are willing to take a risk to save a few hours.
    1985 Mercury Capri GS - 5.0, 5-Speed, Ported E7s, FMS F303, TFS Valve Springs, Summit Stage 2 Intake, Holley Street Avenger 570, BBK Longtubes, BBK O/R H-Pipe, Flowmasters, Dumps, FRPP HD Clutch, Pro 5.0, Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms, and tons of satisfaction when I can say, "I just beat you with a Mercury!"

    1983 Mercury Capri RS Crimson Cat - 5.0, 4-Speed, T-roof.

  18. #18

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    I have to agree with Jimmy. Spend no money on that 7.5 except for fluid.

    Mark

  19. #19

    Default

    If the rack is only leaking on the passenger side, and otherwise works fine, you can
    buy a seal kit and just replace the passenger side seals. The rack doesn't even have
    to come out of the car.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '79 Mont StaWag, 5.0, 58K original miles ... '81 Futura Coupe, 3.3, 62K original miles ...
    '85 GT 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT CFI/AOD Vert ...
    '65 notch, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ... '68 Vert 307 4-speed...
    (And a 1-of-328 Blue 2003 Mercury Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune)

  20. #20

    Default

    Sorry for the delay but I have read and agree with all the info. My dad's friend has an 8.8 that he would probably give me. I like how the remans dont cost that much. and also where at could I get this seal kit? advance auto or online?
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

  21. #21
    FEP Member Precipus's Avatar
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    X3 on the 8.8 swap, also look and see if the 8.8 has the beefier sway bar!

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member etc1006's Avatar
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    I had a rack on a Mk VII that would leak like hell when it was left sitting on a certain spot. Lucilky I had a spare from a T-Bird. When super cleaning the spare I found cast into the housing 15:1 much to my happy surprise!
    -Eric
    85 SVO 1C
    93 LX 2.3 5 spd stripper, no PW, PL, PM, w/ A/C & Sunroof
    92 Harley Fat Boy
    92 LX 5.0 - Long gone and sadly missed
    84 Capri T-Top - gone
    10 GT Premium

  23. #23

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    Seal kits can be ordered through the usual suspects. Last ones I bought were from
    Kragen/Shucks/OReilly/whateverthey'recallingthemselvesthisweek. Powercraft part
    number 8589 for the Ford rack.

    If it's leaking out the driver side boot, then it's way more difficult to fix. That seal
    is really tough to get to without the proper tool, or unless you're good at making
    a substitute tool. But that seal is really well protected deep inside the rack, so it
    fails far less often. The passenger side seal is a much more common failure, and
    easy to fix.

    You would replace the seal and the o-ring around the piston stop. The stop is
    held in by a large internal lock ring. With the lock ring out, it's just a matter of
    turning the steering wheel to push out the stop. Put a catch pan under the end
    of the rack first...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '79 Mont StaWag, 5.0, 58K original miles ... '81 Futura Coupe, 3.3, 62K original miles ...
    '85 GT 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT CFI/AOD Vert ...
    '65 notch, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ... '68 Vert 307 4-speed...
    (And a 1-of-328 Blue 2003 Mercury Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune)

  24. #24

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    Nice Cat! LOL at the guy checking out his mullet in your wheel. Damn I'm looking good!
    1983 Crimson Cat (Time Machine)
    351W T5
    (Sold to URNEXT)

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    Seal kits can be ordered through the usual suspects. Last ones I bought were from
    Kragen/Shucks/OReilly/whateverthey'recallingthemselvesthisweek. Powercraft part
    number 8589 for the Ford rack.

    If it's leaking out the driver side boot, then it's way more difficult to fix. That seal
    is really tough to get to without the proper tool, or unless you're good at making
    a substitute tool. But that seal is really well protected deep inside the rack, so it
    fails far less often. The passenger side seal is a much more common failure, and
    easy to fix.

    You would replace the seal and the o-ring around the piston stop. The stop is
    held in by a large internal lock ring. With the lock ring out, it's just a matter of
    turning the steering wheel to push out the stop. Put a catch pan under the end
    of the rack first...
    Thank you! I will try this. A lot cheaper than buying a new one.

    Quote Originally Posted by bigdaddyp View Post
    Nice Cat! LOL at the guy checking out his mullet in your wheel. Damn I'm looking good!
    thank you, lol
    1983 mercury capri crimson cat

    5.0 302

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee I6

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