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  1. #51
    FEP Power Member SRM351's Avatar
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    May 2008
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    Holloman AFB, NM
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    1,118

    Default

    effin' cool. I love these threads.
    1979 Base Model Coupe- 351w, C4, 3.73s, the fun machine- Now getting a lot more well deserved mileage put on her!
    2007 Forest River Sunseeker 2200 Class C motorhome on an E-450 chassis. Oh yeah!
    2013 Subaru Crosstrek XV Premium- Marine Blue w/ 5-speed, awesome little car.

  2. #52

    Default Update!!!

    Ok, got the timing set. 2 Degrees BTDC (as per factory spec). It's still a bit sluggish. I mean there is some hesitation when you step on the gas, then it goes.

    I have the MSD hooked up, but I don't have the boost timing on. If I hook that up, how much should I pull back per pound of boost? Or is the boost so low, I can skip it?

    What I'm wondering is if the slight stumble is still a timing issue, or if I should investigate the carb next.

    It starts right up and idles at 800 rpm. After it warms up - choke linkage is broken, so the choke is stuck open.

    Also, after a few trips up and down the road, I'd say it will need a clutch soon. And something under the turbo is burning. Smells like burning rubber, but only faintly.

    Oh yeah, and it's LOUD. It sounds like butt. I'd swear there's an exhaust leak, but I'm not sure from where.
    I push my fingers into my eyes......

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Update - 2023 - Looking to buy 81 Mustang, 82/85/86 Mustang GT, and 79 - 86 Capri (No Sunroof). Not looking for all original/show cars or convertibles - I will be modifying. Would be nice if both were - Black Interior, PW, PL, AC, No - or very little rust. Motor/Trans/Axle not important. Options negotiable with price.

  3. #53

    Default

    Started solenoid (brand new) went bad on me. I got to the parts store today and got a new fuel filter, Purolator part number F101131. Air filter, Purolator part number A40090, swapped out the bad solenoid for a good one and hauled back to the apartment.

    Got it all put back together and got to the gas station for a full tank of 92. Going to start driving it daily now to figure out all the other stuff I need to fix.

    .... other than the warped rotors.

    .... anyone have any 87 - 93 spindles/calipers they want to get rid of? 87 - 93 front A-arms?
    I push my fingers into my eyes......

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Update - 2023 - Looking to buy 81 Mustang, 82/85/86 Mustang GT, and 79 - 86 Capri (No Sunroof). Not looking for all original/show cars or convertibles - I will be modifying. Would be nice if both were - Black Interior, PW, PL, AC, No - or very little rust. Motor/Trans/Axle not important. Options negotiable with price.

  4. #54

    Default Update - WITH PICS!!!!

    Pics here -> http://www.lssthnzr0.com/80turbocobra.htm (scroll down)

    Ok, here we go. Finally got the car running well enough to get it out to my shop. And when I mean well enough, I mean exactly that. It won't run on it's own when it's cold. When it does warm up it still has massive dead spots in the throttle and backfires through the exhaust. It no longer leaks powers steering fluid, but now leaks massive amounts of oil.

    Anyway, got it out to the shop, and priority one was fixing the seat belts. Someone removed the bolts that hold the belts up. Luckily I've got a ton of those and replaced them. However the belts were all turned inside out, so I removed the back seat to see if there were problems behind the rear panels. Guess what I was treated to? RUST!!!

    That's right kids. I'm guessing someone spilled a pop at some point and never cleaned it up. Right where the driver's side rear seat belt bolts up. Two holes rusted through. It would be impossible to see this from the outside (due to the location) unless you were specifically looking for it. Depending on how much good metal is still there, it may be possible to just weld the holes shut. If not, since that is such an unusual spot to rust, I may have a donor patch panel compliments of on of my 79 coupes. Anyway, seat belts fixed.

    Moving on to the engine, there is so much oil blown all over the underside of the motor it's impossible to tell exactly where all it may be leaking from. I can tell you it's leaking from the drain plug (bought a new one) and also the front crank seal. It's possible the rear main is leaking as well, but I can't at this point tell. It's also possible that oil return line from the turbo is leaking. There is just oil everywhere.

    It blows smoke out the tail pipe when you let off the gas. I did a compression test and each cylinder is holding 155 psi. I'm thinking maybe valve seals (but wouldn't it smoke all the time?) or the seals in the turbo are bad.

    Moving on, the inner tie rod ends are broken. I'll likely just buy a 15:1 power steering rack and a bumpsteer kit. I have the complete front end from a 92 GT on the way ($270 shipped). so I'll just upgrade the brakes, rack, tubular K Member and struts all at once. Maybe springs and caster/camber plates too. Who knows?

    I also took a stab at re-routing the dipstick tube, as it pulled out on me. Not sure how that is going to work, but I'll figure something out. (and yes, that is where some of the oil was coming from)

    Final pic is of the timing mark. I think the timing belt jumped a tooth, so next visit out there I'm going to change the timing belt and redo the timing from the ground up.

    I'm also going to relocate the battery to the trunk so I can mount my MSD box where the battery was. From there, I'm going to try setting the base timing to 10 degrees BTDC and pull the timing back with the MSD boost timing control. That might help wake it up.

    Good news is, I was pleased to see that the brakes were fairly new and someone did a GOOD job fixing them. New pads and hardware kit in the back!!

    All and all, I didn't get nearly enough done (as I had to quit in time to get cleaned up and watch the Bears beat the Giants in pre-season) but this coming weekend should prove more productive.

    I'm debating on what gaskets to buy, and if I should replace them, or just forget it until the new motor. If I pull the motor and replace all the gaskets, it's going to get a clutch as well, cause damn! it needs it.

    I might also wait to pull the motor until this winter when it goes in for paint and body work. Let them paint the engine bay and all that.

    Who knows?
    I push my fingers into my eyes......

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Update - 2023 - Looking to buy 81 Mustang, 82/85/86 Mustang GT, and 79 - 86 Capri (No Sunroof). Not looking for all original/show cars or convertibles - I will be modifying. Would be nice if both were - Black Interior, PW, PL, AC, No - or very little rust. Motor/Trans/Axle not important. Options negotiable with price.

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