Painting Booth

[Shadow 1]

Thanks for the compliments. I've got a lot of work already lined up (SVO odds and ends, re-paint of my newly acquired 86 Vert, and the rust bucket 82GT project). Not to mention some other projects for friends.....

Something that I didn't previously mention - always use sealer after the final wet sanding of primer and before the actual paint job begins. I shot a coat of Velvaseal (also from Dupont).

Most other posters in this thread hit the highlights/tricks (like wetting the floor before hand, etc).

Feel free to ask. I worked in a body shop right out of HS for about a year. And I've been doing various sorts of body work off and on for >15 years as my hobby. I love seeing the before/after and the satisfaction with doing it myself....

If the sealer is applied correctly, then no it doesn't need to be wet sanded. This assumes that the sealer is applied just prior to the paint. You can't spray the sealer one weekend and then expect to paint the top coat the next weekend.....

However, there's always an exception. In the case of my RS, I had a few drips of sealer (from the air hole on the top of my spray gun) on the driver side rear quarter . So I waited for the sealer to setup, wetsanded it smooth and then re-applied one final coat of sealer on that panel prior to paint. If I didn't FUBAR that panel, I would have went straight from sealer to base color coat.

That's one thing you have to sort of expect if you do this as a hobby (ie not as a professional). There will always be issues, mistakes, etc. Take your time, deal with them as they come and it will all work out in the end

The other thing I recommend is to practice. Go get a used fender, etc and practice the full process of prep, paint, etc before tackling an entire car. It's easier and less costly if you make a mistake.

Ah, now I understand. Thanks for explaining it. Luckily I got a spare fender and possibly a hood to practice on before experimenting. I have another question though, as you were telling Nightmare about "flex" and when it comes to the front and rear bumper covers, do you just spray the regular paint or do you add a flex agent to it. And if you do add a flex agent do you limit it just to the covers or do you keep painting the car until you run out and make another batch without the flex agent?

[JTurbo]

^^^ I've never used flex agent. The urethane paint has "some" flex to it.

Older enamels (like Centari) use hardener. These paints need the agent on the bumper covers....

[Shadow 1]

So is it true that the flex agent evaporates out of the paint anyway during the drying process?

[1982 niGhTmare]

So is it true that the flex agent evaporates out of the paint anyway during the drying process?

That's what I want to know. I've heard both sides, but if the flex agent is really for when you paint the bumpers off the car, then what's the need if you paint them on the car.

That is, IF the flex agent does evaporate out.

[Shadow 1]

That's what I want to know. I've heard both sides, but if the flex agent is really for when you paint the bumpers off the car, then what's the need if you paint them on the car.

That is, IF the flex agent does evaporate out.

Very good question, inquiring minds want to know. I read somewhere exactly what you said, it's for putting on the covers when they are off the car so you don't crack them as you put them back on.

I thought of another question, how soon after applying the sealer primer do you have to put the actual paint on?

[JTurbo]

Very good question, inquiring minds want to know. I read somewhere exactly what you said, it's for putting on the covers when they are off the car so you don't crack them as you put them back on.

I thought of another question, how soon after applying the sealer primer do you have to put the actual paint on?

Not sure on the flex agent if it evaps or not. Good question for your local body supply store.

The sealer will give you the time between application and top coat. Like I said previously, I've always seen it sprayed right before the paint job with adequate flash time in between.....

[dburdyshaw]

Not sure on the flex agent if it evaps or not. Good question for your local body supply store.

Let us know.

[Shadow 1]

Not sure on the flex agent if it evaps or not. Good question for your local body supply store.

The sealer will give you the time between application and top coat. Like I said previously, I've always seen it sprayed right before the paint job with adequate flash time in between.....

I'll look into it with the local paint supply shop. How long is an adequate flash time in between?

[Shadow 1]

I remember reading in this tread or one of the others, I can't remember, something about soon needing to be a legit paint shop in order to buy autobody paint or something like that. Any word on this subject?

[JTurbo]

I'll look into it with the local paint supply shop. How long is an adequate flash time in between?

Depends on your individual paint conditions (temp, humidity, etc). Usually about 10-20 mins....

[JTurbo]

I remember reading in this tread or one of the others, I can't remember, something about soon needing to be a legit paint shop in order to buy autobody paint or something like that. Any word on this subject?

I just bought a quart of black for the engine bay of my SVO a month or so ago. I'm certainly not going the auto body supply store and ask "hey, I heard you won't sell to ametures..."

JT

[In2Fords]

[QUOTE=Shadow 1;933261] Luckily I got a spare fender and possibly a hood to practice on before experimenting.[\QUOTE]

what, you have a whole Bronco II to practice on, just let me know when to brin it over, Urban Camo please

[In2Fords]

Luckily I got a spare fender and possibly a hood to practice on before experimenting.

what, you have a whole Bronco II to practice on, just let me know when to bring it over, Urban Camo please

I can trade paint job for katsu spam musubi

[Shadow 1]

Depends on your individual paint conditions (temp, humidity, etc). Usually about 10-20 mins....

Thanks for the info, I wasn't sure how long qualifies for a flash.

I just bought a quart of black for the engine bay of my SVO a month or so ago. I'm certainly not going the auto body supply store and ask "hey, I heard you won't sell to ametures..."

JT

I'm not going to ask either. I did just call the paint shop and they didn't mention anything about it, and I told him it was probably spring or summer when I'm coming in. They did tell me a bit about flex agents though. They said it was recommended on bumper covers, even if it's still on the car because it doesn't necessarily "evaporate", it "cures" and from what he said it does stay a bit flexible even after curing so it doesn't crack. I asked about painting the whole car with flex agent since it was already mixed up and he said it should be possible, but it depends on what kind of paint your shooting.

what, you have a whole Bronco II to practice on, just let me know when to bring it over, Urban Camo please

I can trade paint job for katsu spam musubi

LOL, I might trade for that, lol. When I get to that point I don't have a problem with that, you could even buy those cheap quarts of auto paint over at the auto shop for that paint job.

[JTurbo]

Guys - here is a good resource for autobody related questions:
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/
There are members on this board that have a lot more experience than I do

[Shadow 1]

Guys - here is a good resource for autobody related questions:
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/
There are members on this board that have a lot more experience than I do

Hey, your doing good so far.

[dburdyshaw]

As time has passed, I doubt that I'd ever try to paint an entire car -- but this method could be used to paint some pieces (deck lid, console, etc) -- or other around-the-house projects.

Feel free to offer thoughts on it.

http://www.heartsandsharts.com/diy-garage-paint-booth/