Cracked Door Glass Channel

[Basin Motorsports]

I have noticed on my 1980 Coupe that the top of the rear corner of the door sits outboard of the B-pillar metal. It appears the run channel metal is cracked at the base where it it formed to the base door metal. It appears to be fixable with some simple welding and griding, but has anyone added a bracing plate in the area to prevent it from happening again?

[homer302]

One of mine does this but I have never seen a crack. I always assumed it was just the poor quality control standards at the time or I do know the history of my car and I know it was broken into through that door at one point and the stereo was stolen. I wonder if yours was the same only they pulled the frame back so far it actually split the metal in a weak place? It's not so bad that the gasket doesn't seal, it's just not a very good fit. Can you post a picture of the crack for me so I know where to look? I don't see a crack but maybe it's under the door panel.

[dagenham]

I have seen this on numerous fox bodies over the years. I believe it is a strees point. The door frame flexes when the car is going down the road causing the crack. 1997 F-150's had a recall on the doors because they would crack too.

[Basin Motorsports]

This is the driver side, and the only one with the issue. Not sure if it's been broken into, or just cracked over time.

Attachment 109438

[dagenham]

They are stress cracks for sure. I've never seen it that bad before though.
Drill a 1/8 inch hole at the end of both cracks before welding the cracks and the holes. The holes will stop the cracks from getting longer, even after being welded shut.

[Fastlane]

Those are very common issues with the door frame. Something getting stuck between the door frame and seal when the door is closed can cause this. Just closing the door from the window frame over time can cause this. Of course if the car has ever been in any type of wreck, will cause this.

[gr79]

Mine was cracked there 1/2 way around continuous. Inside and rear. Worse than pic.
Am sure others like me naturally use that part of the door frame as a push point to close it.
Sure leaked a lot of air without the door seal touching back there.
Never detached completely. Was concerned eventually would have snapped right off.

Outside cold calm day last Dec. 2 hours total job time, car door propped full open.
Pulled the window outside belt trim and rear window channel section back to check there. No cracking.
Covered car in case of stray metal spatter.
All trim left on and protected due to work time weather window constraint.
Disconnected car's battery.

Practiced initial welder settings on scrap metal, same thickness, for nice small even bead with crackle sound.
Realigned door frame, secured position, drilled the relief holes, cleaned metal, welded.
Finding a good ground on the door for the welder took a little longer than expected.
Had to tweak heat setting from 1 to 3 on door. Took more than i thought. No blow thru happened.
Final settings .023 ER70S-6 wire, new tip, C25 gas, 6.5 wire feed, #3 heat setting Craftsman 80a 120v MIG welder.
60 grit flap disk to smooth, then painted. A grinding wheel can gouge and tear things up here.

Noticed nylon striker bushing was missing. Made one with PEX. Readjusted striker.
All is well. Seals fine, closes nice, frame feels normal strong.

Thought about adding metal reinforcement. Will add if frame cracks again.

The door also may have been miss-adjusted for too long, taking the first hit up top every door slam.
Hinges, striker, worn/missing door bushings. Loose door. Door latching crooked in opening.
Road bumps causing the door frame to vibrate on off the frame to body seal does not help.
Could feel that when driving, fingers placed up top in the seal area gap.
Very little movement felt once welded.