Thanks, did you use the above diagram? Is it correct?
Thanks, did you use the above diagram? Is it correct?
1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
95 Cobra, Crystal White
The only wire you need from the original harness is the green one. pull it out of the harness run it to the alt. VERY easy. The yellow wire, i just ran to the main power lug on the alternator itself.
Brad
'79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
'17 Ford Focus ST
'14 Ford Fusion SE Manual
1986 SVO 1E (IRS'd and too much $$ spent making it turn, stop, and go)
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...esto-Mod-Build
1979 Pace Car #2179 (Gathering parts for GT500 5.8, T56, and t-top swap)
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...84#post1944184
Thanks, much appreciated!
1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
95 Cobra, Crystal White
Be a bit careful with this- it does make the alternator function, but it bypasses the load sense on the alternator. If you put a good load downstream from the alternator (say, headlights) the alternator voltage drop at the stud will be less than at the drop at the wiring harness, and the alternator will not bump up output as much as it would if it was hooked to a 12v source elsewhere. Not really much of an issue unless you run at night with accessories on, but it can lead to under charging.
1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.
Best is the battery, but really any 12V source. I had mine tapped onto the large yellow wire in the harness, right by the starter solenoid. Right to the solenoid on the battery side would work, too. It just wants to know what the system voltage is, instead of reading alternator output voltage. If you tap a keyed source, you would not need to worry about fusing it, however. Mine ran unfused, which was probably not the bestest of ideas, but I knew i was going to be stripping all of the wiring out eventually anyhow.
Last edited by brianj; 01-08-2017 at 10:41 PM.
1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.
Sounds reasonable enough. I'm doing some rewiring this winter (if i ever get the chance), so there's no reason i can do that at that time.
Brad
'79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
'17 Ford Focus ST
'14 Ford Fusion SE Manual
I just had to wire up a 130 amp alternator on my Road Racer. I highly recommend following Brianj's advice. running the yellow wire back to the starter solenoid is a much better solution than just attaching it to the main cable on the alternator. Does a much better job of sensing the load on the entire electrical system. Seems kind of redundant, but it does make a difference. Good Luck!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
Awesome guys, thanks for the advice!
1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
95 Cobra, Crystal White
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