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  1. #51

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  2. #52
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Default Floorboards are cleaned up!

    I finished a major task on the Capri today. I have removed all the rust from the floorboards and most of the undercarriage (except the driver's rear seat which I need professional help with).

    First are the before pictures:

    Passenger side front



    Passenger side rear.


    Passenger's side front from below:


    Driver's side upper torque box


    Passenger's side upper torque box



    I did a lot of sanding, grinding and generally making a mess over the last couple of weekends. Today I sealed everything up that I worked on with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. Pretty good stuff by the look and coverage. Not as messy as I expected, but I did have to wear a mask to keep the fumes out. I went and bought one specifically for solvents from Home Depot.

    After:

    Driver's floorboard:


    Passenger's Front. Yes really that is the same panel after hitting every inch with a grinder or sandpaper!


    Driver's side torque box. Note, the goal here wasn't to cover everything, just the areas I had sanded or where there was visible rust. Since the control arms are still on the car, I couldn't get all of it. I'll finish that up when I drop the rear to replace all the bushings.


    Passenger's side torque box.



    There are a few more pictures on the http://www.flickr.com/photos/chriscu...7619314703201/ if you're interested.

    Next steps are a little hard to know right now. I am going to have a professional look at the front frame and decide what is next. I keep hearing it is repairable, I just don't know how much or what I can be doing in parallel while waiting to get it done. Hopefully I'll have someone look at it next weekend.
    Last edited by ccurtin; 07-04-2009 at 02:42 PM. Reason: fixed broken link
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    1984 Capri Turbo RS - Alive after 7 years! Build Thread
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  3. #53
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    Great work, I know where you are comming from. I also had to replace the drivers side frame rail and drivers side floorpan etc. Here are some pics of my Michingan SVO.
    Last edited by KCoker; 12-08-2010 at 09:36 PM.
    Kendal

  4. #54
    FEP Super Member K PONY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCoker View Post
    Great work, I know where you are comming from. I also had to replace the drivers side frame rail and drivers side floorpan etc. Here are some pics of my Michingan SVO.
    Anymore pics of your restoration? and how long ago did you buy the SVO... I remember a blue one a few years ago that was complete but very rusty and in need of restoration... could this be the same SVO?

  5. #55
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    Looking good...new stamping pans right?
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
    1984 (early) Turbo GT (parts SLOWLY coming together)
    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by K PONY View Post
    Anymore pics of your restoration? and how long ago did you buy the SVO... I remember a blue one a few years ago that was complete but very rusty and in need of restoration... could this be the same SVO?
    This one came out of southern Michigan and so far is the only 84 5C Dark Cadet Blue SVO. I have the buck tag, build sheet and door sticker and have ordered a report from Marti Auto works but have not recieved it yet. I dont want to hijack the thread on the capri with to much discussion on my car but I just wanted to show with enough time the rust issues can be fixed. I had the bottom, engine area, and inside sandblasted. I bought the car about 3 yeas ago. I have it mostly back together, I will be putting a newly rebuilt engine in this afternoon and then it is back to the paint shop to paint the rest of the body.
    Kendal

  7. #57
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86GT2go View Post
    Looking good...new stamping pans right?
    No. Lots of hand sanding/grinding of surface rust and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Other than 2 holes I found everything was surface rust!
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  8. #58
    FEP Super Member K PONY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCoker View Post
    This one came out of southern Michigan and so far is the only 84 5C Dark Cadet Blue SVO. I have the buck tag, build sheet and door sticker and have ordered a report from Marti Auto works but have not recieved it yet. I dont want to hijack the thread on the capri with to much discussion on my car but I just wanted to show with enough time the rust issues can be fixed. I had the bottom, engine area, and inside sandblasted. I bought the car about 3 yeas ago. I have it mostly back together, I will be putting a newly rebuilt engine in this afternoon and then it is back to the paint shop to paint the rest of the body.
    Ok thanks the one I was thinking about was a 86.

  9. #59
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    Lot of hard work in those pans then....I commend your work!
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
    1984 (early) Turbo GT (parts SLOWLY coming together)
    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

  10. #60
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Quick update. Haven't done much with the car, too many family obligations, but I am starting to collect parts.

    I bought a pair of 85 GT seats, spare tire cover and 2 mint condition fenders. The fenders came off a Mustang (yes!) and the new owner wanted a Mustang again. Paid $100 for the pair. Way cheaper than how much work I'll need to do on the current ones.

    These purchases blew the budget for July so I won't be doing anything new until August 1st. Then I start on the rear brakes.
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    1984 Capri Turbo RS - Alive after 7 years! Build Thread
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  11. #61
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    No new pictures, nothing really worth showing.

    I found a pair of white doors from an 86 with no rust and very little body damage. $50! They are red interior and electric windows and locks, but I'll convert them back to manual with the existing panels. The original doors are too far gone, the rust has wrecked the bottoms.

    I also spent some time cleaning up the rust on the drivers frame rail and stopped. It is too far gone, I'm going to need a replacement. Sucks since that is the only bad rust.
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  12. #62
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    I was able to take advantage of the long weekend and make some progress on the Capri.

    First I removed the rear brake lines, up to the firewall. One was already cracked and there was no fluid left, so it wasn't as messy as it could have been. I also tried to drain the front brakes, but the bleeder screws are so rusted to the caliper that they wouldn't budge. I sprayed them a couple of times with PB Blaster so I'll try again next weekend.

    Next was to work on the rear suspension again. I bought replacement bolts for the upper and lower control arms from UPR. Of course I didn't notice that there were different size bolts for the upper and lower until AFTER I had put the passenger side back on. However by this time I had figured out how to place the jack under the pumpkin part of the rear end (instead of the cover) and the bolts came out and back in really easily.

    Passenger Side:



    Drivers Side put back together:



    Passenger side put back together:



    I cleaned up the driver's side upper control arm and also painted it the gray 'hammer' color. While I had the upper half apart, I also cleaned up the top of the rear end and both axle tubes to the lower control arm mounting points.

    My wife found it funny that I was filthy so she took this picture. I had a mask and full eye protection, so no worries about having breathed in all that crap.




    To end the weekend I removed the lower control arm on the driver's side to start cleaning that up. That was a pain in the ass. Thank goodness for air tools, but I still couldn't get the axle side bolt out. It wasn't rusted, it was binding on the rear end. After about 30 minutes I finally got it out, but cut my hand on the pumpkin when it finally came free.

    Next steps are to continue working on the driver's lower control arms, cleaning up the rust and painting it and the springs.
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  13. #63
    FEP Senior Member 895.0's Avatar
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    that capri is coming along really nice keep up the good work. You gave me some incentive to go work on my t-top
    1989 Mustang GT " the race car"
    1986 Mustang GT " the dd"
    1985 Mustang LX T-Top " wife's ride"

  14. #64
    FEP Super Member roush235's Avatar
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    You have made really good progress on the car. Keep us posted.

    I got a chuckle out of the picture of you. We've all looked just like this after a day of fighting rust........
    Bob in Lebanon, TN
    79 original owner six cylinder coupe
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  15. #65
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCoker View Post
    Great work, I know where you are comming from. I also had to replace the drivers side frame rail and drivers side floorpan etc. Here are some pics of my Michingan SVO.
    I missed these pictures somehow! (And in my own thread, geez)

    Do you have a build thread going? If not, any pictures of what the driver's side frame rail looked like as you took it apart? Say, where the spot welds are as you get closer to the firewall?
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  16. #66
    FEP Senior Member 8T3Hatch's Avatar
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    Steady progress - congrats! You can't tell it's the same floors.
    '83 Hatch - PBR Front/GT rear disc, Steeda Sport Springs, Tokico Blues, MM CC plates, 87+ sway bars

  17. #67
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    The fall was mostly taken up with torrential rains, floods, Softball and Color Guard, so I didn't get to do anything until this weekend.

    Last time I worked on the car I dropped the driver's side rear lower control arm and spring to begin cleaning up that part of the car. I then had the good idea to remove the axles to make is easier to remove the brake backing plate to clean and paint it. Well, two different days, lots of different techniques (including a torch!) I gave up. I guess I'll work around the axles.

    I also figured it would be easier if I dropped the rear end completely, moved it out from underneath the car and then work on the underside of the car and the rear end with much more room. Except the passenger's side lower control arm bolts won't move. Lots of PB Blaster, impact wrench, breaker bar with a 4 ft pipe. Nothing worked.

    So, I gave up on the rear end of now.

    Instead I removed the steering wheel and dash. Two reasons. First to make sure there was no 'rot' under the cowl (a very common problem on Fox bodies) second to get access to the Heat/AC box. I am going to change the heater core and A/C condenser before I put everything back together. Both are of questionable quality after sitting for so long, so I'd rather replace them than take the chance. I haven't replaced them yet.

    Next I started removing the front brake lines since I need to rebuild the front suspension before the car can be moved. Most everything here is rusted together. I couldn't get the brake bleeders free nor remove the brake lines from the calipers. So no progress here.

    I did however begin removing the rusted frame rail. I bought a spot weld cutter a couple of weeks ago and today started removing the welds. I was able to do about a dozen before I ran out of time. More tomorrow!

    Sorry there are no pictures, but as you read, I haven't actually finished anything lately.
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  18. #68
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Progress is progress, keep pecking at it little by little and before you know it the car will be ready for paint and then back on the road.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  19. #69
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Yes, that is my frame rail.

    After a frustrating day last Friday, today I made a lot of progress on the car. First I was able to remove the lower control arm bolts that were seized. Heated them up for about 45 second each and they came right out with the impact.

    The spring was a little more difficult because the sway bar and slapper bars are still on the control arm and rear end respectively (seized, for now ;-). I eventually removed the shocks and the rear end settled down enough that I could pull the spring out. Five minutes later, the rear end was on the ground.






    I then moved to the rusted frame rail. I was able to cut through a bunch more spot welds until finally I broke out the sawzall and cut through the mounts at the radiator support. They were so rusted I wasn't able to find where the original welds were.

    As you can see, there was no chance to 'patch' this rail. It is rusted through in several spots.







    Here is a shot of the rail over the k member. I don't know for sure if I need to replace the whole rail or just cut out this inner piece and weld some new steel to it. Advice?








    It is also obvious I need to replace part of the radiator support.






    Next steps are to get the rear end cleaned up, painted and new brakes put on. Then start on so getting it rolling is probably a good next step.
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  20. #70

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    boy that frame rail sure is toast. I don't think you have anything good to weld to at the cross member
    1983 Capri RS Turbo
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  21. #71
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    keep up the good work..I commend you on the drive to get that thing apart!

  22. #72
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    It has been way too cold to get anything done on the car lately. I know I live in Atlanta, but it has still been cold.

    I did however, get a replacement frame for the rusted areas. I found a guy on Craig's List parting out an 84 Capri. The car was trashed by a dealer as part of the Cash For Clunkers waste of my tax dollars (they put it in a dumpster and crushed the back quarters and bent the car in the middle.)



    So I got the frame from just behind the strut towers forward, another pair of fenders (some scrapes, but not a lot of rust) and a back seat bottom that I'll have recovered when I do the seats.



    I look off everything from the frame that I wasn't going to need, then I tried to find someplace to put it. As I feared it won't fit in the shed and is too wide to fit on the passenger side of the garage. So for now it is against the rear quarter covered in a drop cloth. Yes Deb can get the van into the garage still.












    Looks good doesn't it? So much for the January Budget, so I'll start following up on suggestions for people to help me replace the rail (and probably the strut tower too) in February.

    I really was going to work on the rear end today, but I wasn't going to grind on the rust with the doors closed and it was extremely windy, so I had to give up. Maybe next weekend?
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  23. #73

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    Bro I've seen worse. . . it will be fine, good project and thanks for saving another 4E!

  24. #74
    FEP Power Member In2Fords's Avatar
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    wow, thats a big commitment, I have shy'd away from easier prjects!!

    you've got some drive man, it clangs when you walk!

    Im glad to see someone is taking on the most daunting projects. It will be sweet once its done and a huge learning experience for you!

    Have you thought about taking it to a shop to get completely soda blasted or acid dipped if theres one in your area? would make it alot easier and maybe cheaper in the end?

  25. #75
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Thanks for the encouragement and compliments!

    Other than the frame rail all that you see is surface rust. A few swipes with some sandpaper and it is coming off so it isn't the highest priorities in the restoration.

    I'm deliberately keeping within a monthly budget so when it is time to cleanup the body I'll see what costs are for soda blasting and may have to 'save up'.

    Right now the big blocking item is the frame rail. I don't want to start working on the undercarriage and rebuilding the front suspension if it is going to be taken apart or 'moved' when on the frame machine. So January's budget was on the clip. Feb's will probably be 'saved' for March to get it installed.
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