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  1. #376

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    Looking good. Going to the charity show is a great idea. Hopefully you guys raised a lot of money for the kids. I have never heard of not having enough camber though. I have heard of not enough caster adjustment. Are you sure they said camber? Just asking. I see that it is low but I somewhat question their knowledge. I mean they make caster/camber plates for a reason and I have them on my lowered car but your car just doesn't look that low in the pictures to me. Either way, Nice work getting the Fox out in DECEMBER no less!
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

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    July 7, 1775

  2. #377
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Engine break in is done, changed the oil, checked a few things to make sure they are still attached and took her for a ride. No hesitation putting my foot into it and she is running really well. Cool to hear the wastegate open I glanced a few times at the boost gauge and it looked like around 15 lbs.

    Now to add the PimpX, ported lower and the stripes (my wife of course asked about the AC, so I need to look into the hose wizard kit some more.)
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  3. #378
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Looking good. Going to the charity show is a great idea. Hopefully you guys raised a lot of money for the kids. I have never heard of not having enough camber though. I have heard of not enough caster adjustment. Are you sure they said camber? Just asking. I see that it is low but I somewhat question their knowledge. I mean they make caster/camber plates for a reason and I have them on my lowered car but your car just doesn't look that low in the pictures to me. Either way, Nice work getting the Fox out in DECEMBER no less!
    The issue is the lower control arms are SN95s (there were no new ones when I had the suspension done a few years ago), so the wheels are sticking out a little bit too far and are rubbing on tight corners. They couldn't adjust it any more without it rubbing worse. I can live with it for now, but it is on the list of things to revisit.
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  4. #379
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    The weather was so nice today I was able to install part one of my Christmas present. A Stinger ported lower.

    Only snag in the whole thing was getting one of the injectors to seat properly in the ported intake. After about 10 minutes of cursing I swapped it with another injector and both went in okay.

    Took her out for a quick test run to look for leaks and everything was great!

    Part 2 of the Christmas present is going to wait a couple of weeks lots of kid events the next two weekends (Oh, it is a PimpX )

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  5. #380
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Default Finally looking like an RS Turbo!

    After getting her running correctly in September of 2016, I drove her a few hundred miles, when to a couple of car shows but really wanted to get the stripes, decals and emblems on. This week I was finally able to coordinate with someone to do them!


    IMG_2730 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_2736 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_2731 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_2732 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_2740 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_2743 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_2746 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_2742 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_2741 by Curtin Family, on Flickr
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  6. #381

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    WooHoo! Looks great. I used to be nervous of applying these but over the years I have gotten to where I only need to buy two of everything, LOL. Actually I USUALLY get it in one try now. Soapy water is your friend. Those letters on the hood don't look like much fun to get right.

    I am glad you are still plugging away at her.

  7. #382
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Looks awesome!
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  8. #383
    FEP Member Ford Builder's Avatar
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    Sweet ride!!
    IF ITS FORD POWERED YOU GOT TO LOVE IT

  9. #384
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    Nice finishing touches! Looks great!
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  10. #385
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    My build was picked up by The Fox Cast Facebook group today! Got a shout out to the board in there too!

    Not sure how long this link will last

    https://www.facebook.com/thefoxcast/...98401490345665
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  11. #386

  12. #387
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Had a lot of fun last fall and this winter driving her. A few car shows and a bunch of just driving around.

    A couple of weekends ago I removed the front lower control arms that were giving her such a horrible stance. They were sn95s and just pushed the springs and wheels out too far. Installed new LMR lowers, got a new alignment and no-rubbing, not as much creaking and the stance is much better.

    After many years of adding parts, today I removed a few.

    Installed a PimpX (MS3) computer, FID 85 lb/hr injectors and removed the VAM. Had a lot of fun driving it around as it autotuned. Still figuring it out, but it felt like I went into boost, but the logs don't show it? (I've started a thread on Stinger's site).

    Here's my fuel table since I hate to post without any pictures.

    fuel table 3-24 first day by Curtin Family, on Flickr
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  13. #388

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    Quote Originally Posted by ccurtin View Post

    Installed a PimpX (MS3) computer, FID 85 lb/hr injectors and removed the VAM. Had a lot of fun driving it around as it autotuned. Still figuring it out, but it felt like I went into boost, but the logs don't show it? (I've started a thread on Stinger's site).

    Here's my fuel table since I hate to post without any pictures.

    fuel table 3-24 first day by Curtin Family, on Flickr
    Judging by the green cell weighting area from your autotune, I'd say you were in boost. Anything over 100% fuel load is boost and there appears to be plenty of data collected above 100% between about 2100 and 4000 RPM.
    Julian

    85 Capri - Hydroboost, 2004 rack conversion, Saginaw PS pump, SVO 4wheel disks & suspension Megasquirt.

  14. #389

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    Duplicate post.
    Last edited by svocapri; 03-30-2018 at 10:26 PM. Reason: duplicate post
    Julian

    85 Capri - Hydroboost, 2004 rack conversion, Saginaw PS pump, SVO 4wheel disks & suspension Megasquirt.

  15. #390
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by svocapri View Post
    Judging by the green cell weighting area from your autotune, I'd say you were in boost. Anything over 100% fuel load is boost and there appears to be plenty of data collected above 100% between about 2100 and 4000 RPM.
    Thanks! I figured out that the log file are in 10 minute increments and the last 3 I wasn't in boost which is what confused me since I thought they were by start/stop. Going back through the other ones found plenty of 14.5 lbs!
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  16. #391
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    I also found at WOT I was hitting 20psi. Which without an intercooler is not good. Took out some timing and removed the gillis valve so the wastegate is directly attached to the turbo, hit 14 psi a few times but never more (confirmed that wastegate is opening at 10 psi).

    Last month + has been crazy with end of school things + some vacation so I'll be back working on her in mid-June. First task: A/C! Then a catch can.

    Intercooler or methanol will come in the fall when my finances recover from the A/C.
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  17. #392
    FEP Super Member Ken P's Avatar
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    My local Mustang club / GRMC is having a show at Hardy Ford on June 16th. All Ford / Lincoln / Mercury are welcome. I'll be selling parts in the swap meet area.
    86 LX Coupe 4E
    84 SVO Watkins Glen Pace Car 1E
    85 SVO Hertz 4E
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  18. #393
    FEP Senior Member rodster's Avatar
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    That's one beautiful Capri

    Amazing transformation!

  19. #394

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    Sucks having to do some stuff twice but as the old saying goes. You live and you learn. Glad you are happier with the new items. Sounds like serious progress is being made.

  20. #395
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Finally finished the fall/winter project.

    IMG_3743 by Curtin Family, on Flickr

    Stinger FMIC
    Real Garrett T3/T4 50 trim
    Catch can

    One small leak from the cam bolt I know how to fix.

    Now to start tuning again. (hit 21 psi fooling around so I need to get it right before I blow it up)
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  21. #396
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Default Stinger Front Mount Intercooler Installation

    Last fall I started what I thought would be a good weekend project: installing a Stinger Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC). Well, I finished this June. It took so long because of a combination of parts, funds, time to do anything and frustration, so hopefully these instructions will help someone else to be prepared for the install and maybe avoid some of the problems.


    Things to consider before BUYING the kit
    Is your radiator core support STRAIGHT? If not, get that fixed first. Details below for why
    Are you using a non-SVO T-3? Like from an xr4ti, RS TURBO or GT TURBO? Consider upgrading to an SVO cold side or a new turbo first. Details below for why


    I started with a non-intercooled T-3 turbo from an XR4Ti. How do you know it’s from a non-intercooled car? It has two bolt holes on the cold side output and ‘ears’ instead of just the circular output like the SVOs.


    I started with a bent radiator core support. I didn’t have the A/C re-installed yet, so it wasn’t obvious how badly bent the core support was. Since the front end of the car was replaced to repair all the rust years ago, I don’t know any history on why it’s bent, but I suspect someone put a rope or chain on it to pull or tow the car.


    Why is this a big deal? The intercooler needs to go between the fog light bar and the radiator support. If the radiator support is pushing out, it won’t be able to sit parallel to the radiator.


    Since the Capri is a dark color I don’t have a good picture showing how bent it is, but take my advice and get this straight!


    Installation Steps


    1) Jack up the car, front and rear and use jack stands. Many people just do the front, but I found being level helped a few times as I tried to get the intercooler aligned.


    2) Disconnect the battery. The number of times I bumped the battery doing this made me glad I did this!


    3) Remove both wheels. They just get in the way.


    4) Remove the inner wheel liners. I didn’t do this and in hindsight I should have. Some of the fitment issues I had early on was because the liner was pushing on the tubing. I eventually cut around where it needed to be, but not having the liners makes it much easier. Plus it will give you more light when you’re trying to adjust everything.


    4a) remove the charcoal canister. It is in the way. I still need to figure out where to put it back. For now the line from the gas tank is behind the headlight but I don’t like that.


    5) As mentioned, I don’t have A/C but you need to remove the brackets that hold the A/C condenser. I’ve read several places that you can push/pull the condenser closer to the radiator without the brackets to give you more room.


    6) Find the center of the radiator opening. I put a piece of painter’s tape on the core support and marked it on there.


    7) Find the center of the intercooler. Same idea, use tape to write on where the center is.
    Some people also said their intercooler input/output were offset from center. Mine were on center, but check now. It might be a valuable piece of information as you’re trying to fit all the pipes in case you need to flip it.


    Now using jack stands, pieces of wood and wood shims center the intercooler and push it as far up as you can into the gap between the bumper and the radiator support and center it using the tape marks. At a minimum it should be flush with the bottom of the core support.


    At this point you may say ‘but I see all these pictures of people when their's hanging down a couple of inches below the core support. Me too. But that is very wrong. Not sure how it worked for them but it didn’t for me and exchanging emails with Stinger’s tech support they said to get it up as high as you can.


    9) Now look at the input/output tubes to the intercooler and install the silicon hoses and clamps. You can tighten the clamp to the intercooler down tight now, but leave the other side loose. Ideally these should be right below the bumper mounts. If not raise the intercooler higher. This is one of the first areas where you have some adjustment room.


    10) Another issue at this point is the power steering cooler. If you car came with one, you may need to bend it out of the way or unbolt it and slide it around so the outlet clears it. I had to remove mine (though the 1984 RS Turbo didn’t come with one from everything I can find out). Remember the bent core support? It was really bad where the cooler came through so I had to remove it. No amount of bending would get it out of the way of the intercooler outlet.


    11) Now start installing the tubes from the throttle body to the driver’s side of the intercooler. I found using a strap to hold the tube until you got the one attached to the intercooler on saved me from cursing a lot. Keep the clamps loose, but tight enough it takes some effort to adjust the pipe. Too loose and it will fall apart, too tight you won’t be able to adjust.


    Now for the first issue I ran into. The ‘U’ pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body pipe sits on the lower radiator hose. Stinger support says this is okay, but I also saw some pictures/advice of people trimming the lower hose an inch. I did not.


    IMG_3781 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_3787 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    12) Now check for clearance against the fan. Since I wasn’t running a stock fan or stock radiator I had to tweak the ‘U’ piece of the piping on the driver’s side to get as much clearance as I could. I played with how far the pipe was into the intercooler (the silicon gives you the ability to push into almost into the intercooler, or pull it out almost an inch. Mine worked pushed against the intercooler.


    IMG_3786 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    13) Clocking the turbo. Now the cursing really started. Since the engine and turbo came from an xr4ti, there was not a top mount intercooler like the SVOs came with. So I went online and bought a 90 degree elbow instead of cutting the ‘ears’ off the turbo.


    Here is what I TRIED. This didn’t work but I want to show you want I’m talking about with the elbow and ‘ears’.


    IMG_3382 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    The first step in clocking the turbo is to loosen, but not remove the bolts holding the cold side (output to the throttle body side) so you can rotate the housing so the outlet is straight up, or more ideally slightly angled towards the strut tower.


    Of course the loosened bolts hit the oil return, or the wastegate actuator hits the oil return. I was scratching my head at this point and went online to look at pictures of other installs. And guess what? EVERY one I found was an SVO cold side. Turns out that the bolt placement on the cold side is DIFFERENT between SVO and non-SVO turbos. And no matter how you try to position the cold side with the ‘ears’ turbo you either hit the drain line or can’t get the angle on the pipe from the intercooler you need. In the above picture the actuator had been removed to just SEE if it was possible.


    The issue is where the bolts are on the cold side is basic math. T-3 turbos have 6 bolts holding 3 pieces of metal around the edge of the cold side. Loosen them and move the cold side orientation. The wastegate actuator is attached on one of those pieces of metal. So you have only 6 places to put it, and no wiggle room that doesn’t alter where the output lines up. Turns out the position of these bolt holes on the SVO turbo allows easy attachment of the actuator with the output rotated towards the strut tower, but the non-SVO puts the actuator right where the oil drain wants to be. I don’t have a picture but it is clear the SVO bolt holes are spaced differently around the cold side when you line up the outlets.


    14) At this point I did something kind of dumb/kind of motorhead. I decided, well, time to upgrade the turbo. I built the engine for much more airflow, maybe this issue with the turbo fitting is the trigger to buy a new turbo. (Yes my wife just shook her head when I told her this.)


    There is a whole other blog post about that experience, but let’s say 3 months later I bought a real Garrett T3/T4 Stage III hybrid and was able to clock it correctly. Still had issues with the wastegate actuator, but it was an easier fix than the stock T-3 would have been.


    Teaser


    QXRB3425 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    15) Now that I have the turbo where I want it, I started again on the passenger side piping. First problem I encountered was the pipe from the turbo to the ‘U’ hit the top radiator hose. Unlike the bottom there was a LOT of interference so I had to trim the hose about 2 inches.


    IMG_3694 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_3695 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    16) At this point the pipes are attached to the intercooler and loosely to the turbo. Except the size of the silicon 90 degree elbow has the pipe pointing upwards to where I was worried I’d hit it on the hood. It was as far down on the outlet as it would go, but still had a bad angle. So I had to trim the turbo side of the coupling.


    Here you can see how much I had to trim.


    IMG_3685 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    17) Now that everything was where I wanted it I went to each clamp and tightened it. Between tightening each clamp I confirmed nothing shifted, especially around the fan.


    1 Some people talk about leaving the intercooler hanging by the piping and clamps but that seems really risky, especially if you blow off a clamp with high boost. So I built some brackets to hang the intercooler from the radiator support and added some straps on the bottom.


    IMG_3693 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_3688 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    19) now I had to trim the wheel liner to fit around the U pipes. Again I wish I’d removed the liners while doing this, but here is roughly what I had to cut.


    IMG_3782 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_3780 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    20 ) Final step was to install the BOV and run another line to the vacuum tree on the firewall, then put the tires on.


    Some pictures of the finished product.


    IMG_3748 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_3744 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_3743 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    IMG_3749 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    Now that I have a bigger turbo and the FMIC I’ll start tuning again and not worry about too much boost with the intercooler.
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  22. #397
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Default Turbo upgrade

    In the previous post I described the steps to install a Stinger Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC). In that post I alluded to the “fun” I had with the turbo clocking, interference with the wastegate actuator and the oil drain etc.

    Basically I had problems getting the stock T3 to clock properly to install the FMIC. So rather than trying to find a used SVO turbo or used cold side I decided to buy a new turbo. What I bought was one of the eBay turbos, but rebuilt with real Garrett internals. There are several threads on the internet about this, but I won’t comment on how good or bad the idea of using the Garrett parts is, since I never got it installed.

    Instead I ran into a number of problems with the differences between the eBay turbo and the original T-3. The biggest was that the new turbo was not a drop in replacement for the T-3. Starting with the hot side. The new turbo sits almost ½ inch farther from the header flange, and is rotated at least 15 degrees from the T-3.

    IMG_3659 by Curtin Family, on Flickr



    This caused all kinds of problems with the 3” downpipe I already had. Installing the turbo twisted the downpipe and moved it right into the middle of the firewall. So I couldn’t install the downpipe. After discussing with the guys who built my exhaust we tried a couple of bends/extensions to the downpipe so I could get it installed and drive to them. But it was angled in the wrong direction so badly we were considering building a new downpipe.

    But before I went down that route I wanted to make sure there weren’t going to be other issues with the new turbo. And turns out there were a few.

    First, I was trying to reuse the T-3 wastegate actuator bracket, but that didn’t fit. With the T4 cold side, the 6 bolt spacing is even wider than the T-3 so the T-3 bracket wouldn’t bolt up. Next I bought a Garrett actuator bracket, which had the right angle on the actuator to the wastegate. Until I tried to install it in the car and the bracket placed the actuator right where the strut tower was. I tried a couple of different orientations and couldn’t get a straight shot to the wastegate without hitting the oil drain, header or strut tower.

    Second, the drain line and feed line sizes into the center section where different sizes than the T-3.

    So at this point I figured there were enough differences with the eBay turbo that I should cut my losses and get a real Garrett. Well, that didn’t go so well either.

    Once I got the Garrett, I found that the orientation of the downpipe was fixed, but none of the other issues were resolved. Different size oil feed, different size drain and the positioning of the cold side bolts was identical.

    The drain was easy to fix, found the right size bolts and opened up the holes in the mount.

    The feed was easy to fix, brought the turbo and original feed to Lowe’s and got the adapter to fit the bigger center section.

    The actuator proved to be a totally different beast. I eventually got a Universal bracket and had to stack washers on part of the actuator to get the angle correctly.

    Here is the bracket:


    IMG_3650 by Curtin Family, on Flickr

    The problem is that the bolt holes really only give about ½ inch of adjustment. Flipping the bracket moves the actuator mounting holes around and some adjustment, but not enough to get the binding out of the actuator rod. Yes, people sell bent actuator rods, but I couldn’t find any that didn’t include the full actuator.

    IMG_3674 by Curtin Family, on Flickr



    I finally shimmed the actuator mount with some washers to get the angle on the rod to freely move the wastegate.


    IMG_3769 by Curtin Family, on Flickr

    IMG_3770 by Curtin Family, on Flickr


    I ended up with this combination since I couldn’t easily extend the length of the actuator mounting bolts. I think one or two more washers would have removed any angling of the rod. Ideally the bracket would have an offset, like the stock bracket, but this works.

    Long story, but if anyone is considering upgrading from a stock T-3 to a T3/T4 Stage III 50 trim hybrid here are some things to consider

    1) The new turbos are oil cooled only. You are going to need to remove the water lines from the block and from the piping around the engine. I found a pipe in my pile of spare parts that didn’t have the nipple to feed the turbo and used it.

    2) Any of the ‘universal’ actuator mounting brackets are going to try to put the actuator into the strut tower because of where the wastegate sits on the Ford 5 bolt outputs. Or hit the drain. Or as you see above bind the rod.

    3) The best of the ‘universal’ actuators is what I show above. Either buy a new actuator with a bent rod or do what I did stacking washers. Getting a bent actuator also means making sure you get the right size hole for the stock wastegate. The two ‘universal’ ones I had were too small so I stuck with what I had.
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  23. #398
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    After many, many years I finally have the Capri running right and wanted to get her dynoed.


    The Fox Cast Media team was in Atlanta at Mo's Speed Shop for a dyno day so I signed up and had 3 pulls.


    The first two were just data logging, but for the third I turned on auto-tune in TunerStudio to take advantage of the controlled pull.


    Not too bad!

    IMG_4155 by Curtin Family, on Flickr

    IMG_4145 by Curtin Family, on Flickr

    https://youtu.be/yWYkV1lwHsM

    Here is the graph from the best HP pull.

    2019-11-02-pull-two-max-tq-262 by Curtin Family, on Flickr

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  24. #399
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Here is a video of many of the other cars, from Mustang IIs to ZL-1s, Z-06 Corvettes and a bad-ass Hellcat, there were a lot of cars.

    You can see my last pull and my sill-ass giving an interview starting around 7:40

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  25. #400
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
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    Real nice. Be proud. Dont have to be humble dude. Thanks for sharing. Ford debated the front intercooler thing. IMHO, its the way they should have come from factory...the space is there and youve done a lovely install that actually works. Everyone should copy your ammendements. Just a 1/4 inch variance in engine to body clearance creates a whole pile of other things to do. Thanks for staying true to the Goals.

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