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  1. #101

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    Quote Originally Posted by brianj View Post
    Skip the regulator, skip the gage, just buy the Edelbrock performer mechanical pump. It comes with the correct pressure and flow right out of the box, will require less fittings and chances for leaks, and is a good quality piece. What you have listed will work, but it is kind of an expensive and complicated way to get there.
    +1

    The Edelbrock regulated pump is actually cheaper than the Edelbrock regulator!

  2. #102

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    Since this thread still seems alive, I think this should be part of it:

    If you still have a hesitation and you have already moved the accelerator pump link or tried different nozzles, replace the 1470 with a 1468.

  3. #103

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    Quote Originally Posted by JGrono View Post
    John,

    You might have already bought that list, and all those parts will work. This is just my opinion, but If I were you I wouldn't spend that much on a regulator. You could buy about 5 Summit brand regulators for the price of that one Edelbrock.
    I did end up buying all three items in that cart screen shot. (I haven't had any time lately to start this project. I bought a house, spent a lot on fixing it up, have been spending time and money getting my daily driver maintained, got engaged... LOL)

    So now where I'm at is: Trying to understand the owner's manual and get educated on how to tune this carburetor. I am still 100% clueless when it comes to carbs. The 1406 is sitting on my desk right now un-molested. I have the calibration kit for the 1405. It was my understanding that I should start by replacing the jets, rods and springs with the ones that come stock in the 1405. Problem is, the rods and jets that are in reference #1 of the 1405 chart did not come in the calibration kit I bought. I can't even find where it says which springs came stock in the 1405. I suppose I could just install the carb the way it is and then post back if I have any problems. I'm still not even sure where I'm going to mount the regulator/gauge, or where I'll route the fuel line. Basically, long story short, I'm at a stand-still and I shouldn't even be mucking up this thread with my total ignorance of carburetors. Haha. I think I'll need to bring in the guy who rebuilt my engine and Holley to help me out. I was hoping I could figure all this out myself, but I'm like a frightened little girl who's wandered into a physics lecture.
    1983 5.0 GT convertible. Restored 2011 - 2014

  4. #104

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    I'm about to put this carb on my 1973 Charger. I was happy to find this post as it made it sound so easy and inexpensive to tune this carb. If your deleting an EGR does it affect this at all? I've also found different opinions on this and wanted to get your guys input.

    From my research the venturies are also different between the two carbs both in the primary and also in the secondaries.
    The manual does not state this even though the sizes are identical in the specs.What the difference is that the discharge holes (orifices) are smaller in the 1406 both in the primary and also in the secondary venturies. The air bleeds and idle jets on the venturi clusters are different also. All this rearrangement alters how the jets meter in the carb. I was told to not try to mimic the 1405 jetting on a 1406. It will not simply become a 1405 carb. You will be somewhere in the unknown as to where your mixture will be. Has anyone done this and tested the air/fuel ratio with a meter?

    Although the rods and jets are interchangeable, the calibration of the main body will cause the rods and jets to meter differently. I wondered why there are separate metering kits for each carb. Each kit has the appropriate rods and jets to suit each carb's upper and lower limits. Edelbrock says you must stay within the parrallel shaded area designed for the carb. Unless you have an air/fuel ratio meter you should follow the manual. If you go to 1428 jets your setup won't even be found on the manual let alone be in the shaded area.

    If you purchase a 1406 for the
    electric choke I've been told to simply do step No. 23 on the calibration sheet in the manual and performance will improve dramatically. If it's not quite there you might need to go to No. 19 to hit the sweet spot. You may think that you went too rich but like i said the carb venturi clusters are different between the two and play a big role on how the rods and jets meter between the 1405 and the 1406 Edelbrock carbs.

    Would be interested in any
    thoughts on this since this thread seams to be alive again!

  5. #105

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnate0 View Post
    I did end up buying all three items in that cart screen shot. (I haven't had any time lately to start this project. I bought a house, spent a lot on fixing it up, have been spending time and money getting my daily driver maintained, got engaged... LOL)

    So now where I'm at is: Trying to understand the owner's manual and get educated on how to tune this carburetor. I am still 100% clueless when it comes to carbs. The 1406 is sitting on my desk right now un-molested. I have the calibration kit for the 1405. It was my understanding that I should start by replacing the jets, rods and springs with the ones that come stock in the 1405. Problem is, the rods and jets that are in reference #1 of the 1405 chart did not come in the calibration kit I bought. I can't even find where it says which springs came stock in the 1405. I suppose I could just install the carb the way it is and then post back if I have any problems. I'm still not even sure where I'm going to mount the regulator/gauge, or where I'll route the fuel line. Basically, long story short, I'm at a stand-still and I shouldn't even be mucking up this thread with my total ignorance of carburetors. Haha. I think I'll need to bring in the guy who rebuilt my engine and Holley to help me out. I was hoping I could figure all this out myself, but I'm like a frightened little girl who's wandered into a physics lecture.
    I'm no carb expert either, in the same boat. But the 1405 kit won't have the stock 1405 jets and rods, only the ones to tune it differently. You could just return that and buy the 1428 jets and 1451 rods and have the set up you want. Both are available on amazon and I'm sure other places. Or read my post above if you want to tune the 1406 and not go the route of a 1405 stock set up.

  6. #106

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    Great Post. I have a Sunbeam Tiger with a slightly warmed up 289. I have had an Edelbrock 1406 ( several actually) on it for the 20 yrs I have had the car.
    Also, I have been putting these carbs on my hotrods before they were Edelbrocks. I didn't know there were different tunes. Over the years, I have tried it all and got mediocre results as best. I had to rebuild the carb this spring and followed ur set up advice before I even tested the car, including the pink spring. It has NEVER, and I mean NEVER, idled or ran this good in 20 yrs. It is absolutely unbelievable. Of course, there was no internet info 20 years ago. I can spin the tires in 3rd gear without a problem. I get almost uncontrollable wheelspin from dead stop.

    Thanx for the post

  7. #107

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    Just wanted to say thanks to everybody for this thread. I don't actually have a Mustang. I have a '73 Dodge D200 with a 400 engine. It came stock with a 2-barrel carb that I could not get to work right. I swapped it out for a 1406 and a Performer intake. It ran way better, but it stumbled - a lot - when pulling away from the stop sign. I checked every troubleshooting reference I could find and everything said, "check for lean condition". That's how I found this forum. I read the entire thing, bought the stock 1405 rods and jets and a set of springs. I put the 1405 rods and springs in and it was like night and day. It still had a minor stumble at light acceleration so I played with the rods and jets a bit. I should note that I live at 2,200 ft. altitude. What I wound up with was step 23 on the 1405 chart (.104 jets and .073x.042 rods), 1.5 steps rich in power mode and 1 step lean in cruise, and still running the orange springs. I also dropped my secondary jets to .092's because of the altitude. It has absolutely no problems regardless of how hard or light I'm accelerating, and I honestly think that this truck is faster now than it's ever been. I wouldn't have figured it out without this forum, because my final setting isn't even on the 1406 chart! Thanks, folks.
    Last edited by Wyatt_Earp; 06-27-2016 at 01:49 PM. Reason: Error

  8. #108
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyatt_Earp View Post
    Just wanted to say thanks to everybody for this thread. I don't actually have a Mustang. I have a '73 Dodge D200 with a 400 engine. It came stock with a 2-barrel carb that I could not get to work right. I swapped it out for a 1406 and a Performer intake. It ran way better, but it stumbled - a lot - when pulling away from the stop sign. I checked every troubleshooting reference I could find and everything said, "check for lean condition". That's how I found this forum. I read the entire thing, bought the stock 1405 rods and jets and a set of springs. I put the 1405 rods and springs in and it was like night and day. It still had a minor stumble at light acceleration so I played with the rods and jets a bit. I should note that I live at 2,200 ft. altitude. What I wound up with was step 23 on the 1405 chart (.104 jets and .073x.042 rods), 1.5 steps rich in power mode and 1 step lean in cruise, and still running the orange springs. I also dropped my secondary jets to .092's because of the altitude. It has absolutely no problems regardless of how hard or light I'm accelerating, and I honestly think that this truck is faster now than it's ever been. I wouldn't have figured it out without this forum, because my final setting isn't even on the 1406 chart! Thanks, folks.
    You're welcome! Thanks for signing up just to say thanks! I have love for these Carter/Eddy street carbs. It's a real pleasure how this thread took off. Pretty crazy this thread has 65,000 views now

  9. #109

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyatt_Earp View Post
    Just wanted to say thanks to everybody for this thread. I don't actually have a Mustang. I have a '73 Dodge D200 with a 400 engine.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  10. #110

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    Quote Originally Posted by grabbergreen84 View Post
    Please note that since I took these pictures I replaced the front springs and bagged the back. There's also a 1" spacer under the carb now. Anyways, she sits 2" higher in the front now and 2.5" higher in the back (depending on what I'm doing at the time, of course. That's the original paint, and the original interior. WIP

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    Last edited by Wyatt_Earp; 06-28-2016 at 07:41 PM.

  11. #111

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    Very nice truck! I rarely see any '72-'92 Dodge or Plymouth pick-ups anymore. Those Chrysler 400s were a fairly powerful engine for the '70s smog era in which they existed.
    Thanks for sharing, and good luck with it!
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  12. #112
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    This has to be the best information ever for us that have the 1406. Thanks for all of the information Pace, it's been a blessing.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  13. #113
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    This has to be the best information ever for us that have the 1406. Thanks for all of the information Pace, it's been a blessing.
    You're welcome! I just got the ball rolling.

    It became a good community tech thread from there!

  14. #114

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    Quote Originally Posted by cabsclassics View Post
    I'm about to put this carb on my 1973 Charger. I was happy to find this post as it made it sound so easy and inexpensive to tune this carb. If your deleting an EGR does it affect this at all? I've also found different opinions on this and wanted to get your guys input.

    From my research the venturies are also different between the two carbs both in the primary and also in the secondaries.
    The manual does not state this even though the sizes are identical in the specs.What the difference is that the discharge holes (orifices) are smaller in the 1406 both in the primary and also in the secondary venturies. The air bleeds and idle jets on the venturi clusters are different also. All this rearrangement alters how the jets meter in the carb. I was told to not try to mimic the 1405 jetting on a 1406. It will not simply become a 1405 carb. You will be somewhere in the unknown as to where your mixture will be. Has anyone done this and tested the air/fuel ratio with a meter?

    Although the rods and jets are interchangeable, the calibration of the main body will cause the rods and jets to meter differently. I wondered why there are separate metering kits for each carb. Each kit has the appropriate rods and jets to suit each carb's upper and lower limits. Edelbrock says you must stay within the parrallel shaded area designed for the carb. Unless you have an air/fuel ratio meter you should follow the manual. If you go to 1428 jets your setup won't even be found on the manual let alone be in the shaded area.

    If you purchase a 1406 for the
    electric choke I've been told to simply do step No. 23 on the calibration sheet in the manual and performance will improve dramatically. If it's not quite there you might need to go to No. 19 to hit the sweet spot. You may think that you went too rich but like i said the carb venturi clusters are different between the two and play a big role on how the rods and jets meter between the 1405 and the 1406 Edelbrock carbs.

    Would be interested in any
    thoughts on this since this thread seams to be alive again!
    What size engine is in your Charger? See my post on what I did with my '73 Dodge pickup 400 B-block. According to the specs, the original 2-barrel Holley carb came jetted richer than the 2-barrels on the 318's and 360's. I bought the stock 1405 jets and rods and a set of springs and started playing with that. I bought jets and rods as needed to change the setup based on how the engine was running, winding up with step 23 on the 1405 chart. That setup is not in the 1405 kit (it's not bolded, and it isn't in the shaded area either), and it isn't even on the 1406 chart.

    I don't have a a/f meter or even a vacuum gauge. I just kept increasing the richness of the power setting until I eliminated every little stumble on acceleration, and then tried to figure out how lean I could run it in cruise mode. Interestingly, as a result of all of that my secondaries now come open about 400 rpm lower than they used to. My secondaries kind of became an unintentional vacuum gauge. Another unintended result is that I now have the correct jets and rods for anything from sea level to around 8,000 feet altitude. It didn't cost me anywhere near the cost of the 1405 tuning kit, either.
    Last edited by Wyatt_Earp; 06-29-2016 at 11:41 PM.

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    You're welcome! I just got the ball rolling.

    It became a good community tech thread from there!
    I have to admit that I was a bit leery about posting stuff about my Dodge on a Mustang forum, especially so when asked for pictures. The kicker is that the 1406 fits on a lot of engines. I literally couldn't figure out the problem until I found this thread. I had no idea that they shipped that carb that lean. I had to give credit where credit was due.

  16. #116
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Lol. Plymouth-Name:  20150815_175044.jpg
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    We like them all!
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  17. #117
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Love the older vehicles. That truck looks great.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
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  18. #118

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    I'm going to revive this older thread because it's full of good information on how to get a 1406 into tune.
    Like many others I bought my 1406 thinking that it wasn't any different from the 1405 except for the electric choke. Had I know 20 years ago I would have just purchased a 1405 from the start and added an electric choke housing. But then again the car used to be my daily driver so mileage mattered to me.
    In my situation the 1406 is now paired up with an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold. I used to have it paired with a Performer RPM and it ran fairly well...but after swapping to the Air Gap a few years ago, the lean issues of the stock 1406 are much more crippling. I never saw Edelbrocks warning that the 1406 isn't suggested with the Air Gap back when I made the swap. My issue is a flat dead spot at WOT from a standstill. After a second it kicks in a starts to pull but there is a big delay. I tried moving the accelerator pump up to the heaviest shot hole today to see if it would help but in doing so my engine simply stalled out as I dumped the pedal once to give it a test. If I feather the pedal it takes off but if I dump the pedal it stumbles badly and in this case stalled out. It wasnt to hard to get started again but it acted as if if was flooded. Guess I'll have to pick up a calibration kit and go from there. Anyone else running an Edelbrock Air Gap with a 1406?

  19. #119
    FEP Senior Member liv2roc's Avatar
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    my 84 mustang is basically stock with a comp 281 roller cam with the 1406 on it. It runs rich but drives ok and I get 17 mpg. I tried to lean it up a little bit by stepping it back to the number 7 setting .095 (073x047) it killed my gas millage and drove like crap so I put it back like it was.

  20. #120

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    My 1406 was acting just the opposite, very lean which is what I'm understanding most 1406s are... but I'm also running an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap so that apparently makes matters worse.

    I swapped the primary jets, rods and springs to that of the 1405 today and it made a huge improvement. I haven't tried mashing the pedal yet but the bogging seems to be gone when I pull out from a stop and a surge I was getting also seems to have vanished.
    I still haven't readjusted the fuel air screws since I made the changes. I'll mess with that next.

    I'm curious how it would react if I tried the pink 7" springs. I'm getting about 12" of vacuum at idle.

  21. #121

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    The "step-up spring" in Edelbrock's are the equivalent to power valves in other carburetors... where neither has anything to do with vacuum at idle or the idle circuit. Both the Edelbrock springs and power valves supplement the main circuit, the main jets, which are not in play until up onto the main circuit, the boosters, when extra load is on the engine like deeper than light part throttle accelerating at highway cruise... and that's also how a spring of a certain vacuum level function should be chosen, based on how the combination acts, when extra enrichment is needed. Being that both the 1405 and 1406 have the same venturi and bore diameters, there's probably a primary main air bleed size difference, so that they arrive at a similar/same top end wide open throttle air:fuel ratio, with the 1405 (or 1405 calibration) bringing that enrichment, more sooner, in the throttle opening cycle.

    A problem that can be with air-gap intakes is that the idle/transition circuit needs to be a bit richer than with other (heated) manifolds. Again, it's the primary idle/transition that really needs to be addressed, and yes, more accelerator pump shot can cover things up... and funny enough, the 1406 actually has a bigger shooter than the 1405 comes with, 0.031" versus 0.028"... so that should be a plus in your situation.

    A 7" spring will add the supplemental enrichment at ~7"Hg of manifold vacuum, approximately when your foot's about half way to the floor, which should be a better situation for most combinations than the silly 4" and 5" springs that the 1406 and 1405 (and ALL Edelbrock's right outta the box) come with... though, maybe the jetting in them from the factory is on the richer side, therefore not needing the extra enrichment until later in the throttle opening cycle...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 07-19-2019 at 06:44 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

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