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  1. #1

    Default SN95 Cobra rear brakes and Fox length axles

    This is my first attempt at a detailed write-up. I just did this on my car so it is fresh in my memory and I think it could help a few other people. So here goes...

    SN95 Cobra Rear Brakes with Fox Length Axles

    Parts Needed:
    1. Fox length axles with SN95 hubs.
    2. Ford Motorsport FMS-2300-M Cobra rear brake kit (axle brackets, rotors, anti-moan brackets, dust shields).
    3. SN95 loaded Cobra rear calipers (calipers, pads, caliper saddle brackets).
    4. 4-16 Grade 8 Washers with 1/2" ID.

    Description:
    Normally the SN95 Cobra rear brake axle mounting brackets are mounted outside of the axle flange. This requires 3/4" longer (per side) axles and makes 17"x8" wheels the largest practical size in an OEM wheel on a Fox.

    North Race Cars makes axle mounting brackets that mount on the outside of the axle flange (like stock) but move the caliper mounting position 3/4" inboard. This allows the use of Fox length axles. Fox length axles allow for OEM 17"x9" wheels to fit. The problem is that the NRC brackets are about $150.

    The low cost solution is to modify the stock SN95 Cobra axle mounting brackets.

    Instructions:
    1. The stock SN95 Cobra axle brackets will need to have a section removed. This will allow the brackets to mount on the INBOARD side of the axle flange. Doing this will require the LH bracket to be mounted on the RH side and vice versa.

    2. As you look at the outboard side of the stock LH bracket you want to remove the section of bracket that goes towards the lower forward mounting hole (see pictures). This bracket should now fit on the inboard side of the RH axle flange. Note that the stock outboard side will now face inboard. You may need to slightly clearance the edges of the axle tube hole depending on the size of the welds on your rear end.

    3. Slide the rotor on the axle and hand tighten one lug nut to hold it in place.

    4. The stock anti-moan bracket will now hit the lower control arm mount because it is pushed 3/4" inboard. To fix this you must grind off a small bead of weld that attaches the U-bolt to the bracket. After the U-bolt is removed, mark 3/4" along the inboard edge of the bracket. Cut the bracket along your mark. Clamp the U-bolt back onto the bracket and weld it in place. Loosely attach the Anti-Moan Bracket U-bolt to the rear axle tube.

    5. Place the caliper mounting bracket (saddle bracket) over the rotor and against the axle mounting bracket and loosely install the mounting bolts. Inspect the position of the saddle bracket relative to the rotor. The bracket will probably be slightly biased towards the inboard side of the rotor. Add washers (shims) as needed to center the saddle bracket over the rotor. My set-up required one washer. I used grade 8 hardened washers with an ID of 1/2". Verify that the saddle bracket mounting bolts are long enough for proper thread engagement and replace them with longer bolts if needed.

    6. Remove the saddle bracket and rotor. Tighten all of the fasteners to their proper torque. The FMS M-2300-M instructions have a detailed list of the OEM torque specs if you do not already have them. Install the dust shield if desired. If you want to mount the dust shield with the curved edge facing outboard (like OEM) then you will have to trim or flatten two small tabs.

    7. Slide on the rotor and hand tighten one lug nut. Install the saddle bracket and torque to spec. Install the pads. Install the caliper. Remember that the caliper piston MUST be rotated to retract (if needed). Verify all torques.

    8. Install the wheel and toque the lug nuts.

    9. Repeat for the other side.

    10. Pump the brake pedal from inside the car to make sure that the brakes function properly.

    11. Enjoy your SN95 Cobra rear brakes and Fox length axles.

    DISCLAIMER:
    DO THIS MODIFICATION AT YOUR OWN RISK! I BELEIVE THIS MODIFICATION TO BE PERFECTLY SAFE AND I HAVE NO CONCERNS ABOUT DOING THIS TO MY CAR; HOWEVER, YOU MUST KNOW YOUR PERSONAL SKILL LIMITATIONS. IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF HOW TO PERFORM THESE TASKS DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION. THE AUTHOR IS NOT RESPONSIBLE OR LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES OR PROBLEMS RESULTING FROM THIS MODIFICATION.

    Torque Specs from FMS M-2300-M instructions:
    FASTENER TORQUE
    DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT BOLT 15-30 FT./LBS.
    BANJO BOLTS 30-40 FT./LBS.
    WHEEL NUTS 85-105 FT./LBS.
    DUST SHIELD ATTACHING BOLTS 6-9 FT./LBS.
    AXLE BRACKET/BACKING PLATE BOLTS 45-50 FT./LBS.
    AXLE HOUSING COVER BOLTS 25-35 FT./LBS.
    AXLE FILL PLUG 15-30 FT./LBS.
    REAR MOAN BRACE U-BOLT NUTS 40-45 FT./LBS.
    ANTI LOCK SPEED SENSOR 40-60 in./lbs.
    CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS 70-95 FT./LBS.

    Pictures:


























    --Vince
    Last edited by 85GTVince; 02-17-2009 at 01:19 AM.
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  2. #2
    FEP Member 79rsx5.0's Avatar
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    Very Good imfo to have available!! NICE JOB!
    '79 Capri Drag/Street car 289 w/Pro street air scoop & 2" COG belt 130 Amp/Alt Alum Rad W/ Elec fan B&M Supercooler w/fan 3800 stall aod Alum driveshaft 4.11 Rear seat Delete Welded Rollcage/Subs/Upper & Lower Battle boxes Southside lower/adjust Uppers ALL Poly mounts 275/15 drag radials Silver w/ Black interior 4" Cowl hood Old school Centerlines

    '79 Capri RS 302 4sp Original TRX/Louvers/Dobi plate Dove Gray w/ Black interior

    '82 Capri Straight 6 auto Original Yellow (Now black) w/ Tan interior

  3. #3

    Default

    nice info, thanks!
    1984 LTD Wagon - S3AHAUS
    1988 Mustang LX 5.0 Hatchback - NOBIMMR
    1997 BMW 318ti - TinyBimmer
    2001 BMW 325i Wagon - ANTICW

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member tORMENtOR's Avatar
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    Default

    Great write up & pics,I'm sure this info will help out alot of us,thanks
    Current Stangs+
    84Gt (9W) T-top 347EFI
    http://www.foureyedpride.com/content...984-Mustang-GT
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  5. #5

    Default

    I'm glad to help.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTVince View Post
    I'm glad to help.

    --Vince
    And I am glad you are there to help .
    Thank you .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  7. #7

    Default

    nice write up...my question is will this be required if you use brackets off a sn 95 car an fox length axles or just when you use cobra rears and fox length axles...I'm getting ready to do this with fox length an v6 sn95 parts.

  8. #8

    Default

    The SN95 V6/GT brakes will need the same modification to use Fox length axles.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  9. #9
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    Default

    Hmmm... this might work with the 87-88 turbocoupe rear to narrow it to fox specifications if stock width fox axles are used.

  10. #10

    Default

    hmmmmmmmmmm

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mikes82GT View Post
    Hmmm... this might work with the 87-88 turbocoupe rear to narrow it to fox specifications if stock width fox axles are used.
    I have not personally done that, but I am very confident that it would work.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  12. #12

    Default What about the master cylinder?

    If you are changing from drum to disc in the rear, doesn't also require I change the master cylinder? I don"t think a standard disc / drum master cylinder will push enough fluid to the rear, right? What do you suggest guyz?

    Thanks,
    Mach

  13. #13

    Default

    The two easiest MC's to use for a 4-Eye car are the '86 SVO or the '85 Town Car.

    The SVO MC is 1-1/8" which is very large. Depending on the whole system it may give too firm of a pedal. The Town Car MC is 1". A 1" MC is generally preferred for most 4 wheel disc systems used on a Mustang. Ford used a 1" MC on the '93 Cobra.

    Personally, I have the 1-1/8" MC and I am very happy with my brake system performance.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  14. #14

    Default Cool, info... now if i run an adjustable proportioning valve...

    Am i correct in assuming that the proportioning valve basically reduces pressure on the rear disc, depending upon how much adjustment is made. If this is correct, i wonder if using this valve with the larger mc, would make the brake pedal too firm, or does the proportioning valve effect the feel / travel of the brake pedal?

    As always, thanks guys for your input...
    Mach

  15. #15

    Default

    You are correct, the PV reduces the pressure to the rear brakes.

    I had no noticeable change in pedal feel based on the PV adjustment (through a large range).

    The 3 main factors in pedal feel are:
    1) MC bore
    2) Caliper piston size (front and rear)
    3) Booster

    Notes:
    1) The '84-'86 SVO used 73mm front calipers and 54mm rear calipers, that is why it used a 1-1/8" MC.
    2) The '93 Cobra used 60mm front calipers and 45mm rear calipers, and it used a 1" MC.
    3) The '94-'98 SN95 Cobra used twin piston 38mm front calipers and single piston 38mm rear calipers with a 15/16" bore MC.
    4) The '99-'04 SN95 Cobra used twin piston 40mm front calipers and single piston 38mm rear calipers.
    5) The '94-'98 SN95 V6/GT used 66mm front calipers and 38mm rear calipers with a 1-1/16" bore MC.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  16. #16

    Default dude, great info....

    Man, wish i had found this site years ago...

    Thanks,
    Mach

  17. #17

    Default

    man very good info. i have 3 sets of front 99 gt stuff and 2 set of 99 up rear stuff. now i can use it all cheaply and correctly
    88 mustang Coupri
    2001 F250 power stroke
    85 merkur XR4TI
    79 capri rs soon to be nice
    65 mustang fastback (big project)
    69 camaro rough (bigger project gift from wife)

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by rcoupe93 View Post
    man very good info. i have 3 sets of front 99 gt stuff and 2 set of 99 up rear stuff. now i can use it all cheaply and correctly

    Just rememeber that the '99-'04 rear end housing is NOT the same as the '86-'98 housing. The '99-'04 housing is about 1.5" longer per side.

    You could still use the brakes and brackets on a '86-'98 housing along with Fox length axles to get rear disc barkes.


    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  19. #19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTVince View Post
    Just rememeber that the '99-'04 rear end housing is NOT the same as the '86-'98 housing. The '99-'04 housing is about 1.5" longer per side.

    You could still use the brakes and brackets on a '86-'98 housing along with Fox length axles to get rear disc barkes.


    --Vince
    yeah i wasnt going to use the housing it is actually six cylinder i was jsut going to use the brake parts
    88 mustang Coupri
    2001 F250 power stroke
    85 merkur XR4TI
    79 capri rs soon to be nice
    65 mustang fastback (big project)
    69 camaro rough (bigger project gift from wife)

  20. #20
    FEP Power Member etc1006's Avatar
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    This looks stick worthy!
    -Eric
    85 SVO 1C
    93 LX 2.3 5 spd stripper, no PW, PL, PM, w/ A/C & Sunroof
    92 Harley Fat Boy
    92 LX 5.0 - Long gone and sadly missed
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    10 GT Premium

  21. #21
    FEP Member gt88's Avatar
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    Default Too cool!

    Wow, this thread has OFFICIALLY made joining this site worth the time and effort!!!
    Thanks very much for the good job, and the desire to help others!

  22. #22

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    Is it safe to cut those brackets like that? Just asking. They do hold the caliper on.
    1986 Gt 173,000 mi.
    1984 SVO 80,000 mi.
    1988 NY SSP 223,000mi.
    1968 f-100 ranger 82,000 mi.
    1997 Tracer 180,000 mi.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnie Ryall View Post
    Is it safe to cut those brackets like that? Just asking. They do hold the caliper on.
    Yes. It is safe to cut them. The rear brakes do not generate that high of a braking force and the brackets are ~5/8" thick steel.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  24. #24

    Default

    Does anyone know if you can use 94-04 caliper brackets with Turbo Coupe calipers? I am thinking of trying this but using Turbo Coupe calipers and rotors to keep my car 4 lug.

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by fordgt40 View Post
    Does anyone know if you can use 94-04 caliper brackets with Turbo Coupe calipers? I am thinking of trying this but using Turbo Coupe calipers and rotors to keep my car 4 lug.
    The caliper will physically bolt to the bracket, but the placement will be wrong. It may be "close enough", but that would be your decision.

    If you are going to use TC calipers and rotors why wouldn't you use TC brackets? You can buy just the brackets from North Race Cars. You may be able to get just the brackets from SSBC also.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

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