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  1. #26

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    http://public.fotki.com/ascmclaren/a.../85257_26.html

    If you look at the right side of the engine bay near the frame rail, you will see the CFI deal. It has a bunch of plugs and wires coming out of it. Tought to see but the best picture I can find.

    -Mike

  2. #27

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    Sorry, I should have clarified for ya'll. This diagram may not be for your exact model but, carbed or efi it is the same principle.

    When I found this I just googled for a diagram for an 84.
    Last edited by cobracoupe5; 02-24-2009 at 01:19 PM.
    - 1986 GT coupe - Bone Stock -
    - 2002 - Lincoln Blackwood 4v 5.4L -

  3. #28
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    why not throw it all away? just makes under the hood look messy, glad i did it to mine.

  4. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by negusm View Post
    You mean this? I think it went in the fender somewhere.

    http://www.ascmclarencoupe.com/misc/WhatIsIt.jpg
    That looks like the altitude compensation solenoids to me...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  5. #30
    FEP Senior Member GTJerry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by negusm View Post
    You mean this? I think it went in the fender somewhere.

    http://www.ascmclarencoupe.com/misc/WhatIsIt.jpg

    That goes on a carbed car. CFI did have one in the engine bay but it is not the same.

    Edit, Edit: Actually, the one he posted might be for a carbed car now that I look at it even more closely...

    -Mike
    The photo of vacuum hoses on the bracket behind the fender (post 15) came from an early 85 carbed GT. I believe the car was built in September 84. I don't have this in my running car (also a carb car). Two possible reasons, I guess. 1. The dates of build (parts car, Sept 84, runner June 85). 2. Parts car was sold in Seattle, runner in California.
    67 Cougar
    85 Jalepeno Red GT
    85 Bright Red RS
    88 Smoke Grey GT Hatch
    88 Bright Regata Blue GT Hatch
    89 Bright Regata Blue GT Vert

  6. #31

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    Yep. Those are definitely altitude compensation solenoids. Those were only used
    on the carb'ed cars. I don't know that it was an early vs late thing, or a regional
    thing, but I do know my carb'ed '85 GT never had 'em.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  7. #32
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotpony View Post
    why not throw it all away? just makes under the hood look messy, glad i did it to mine.
    why don't YOU go back and read my original post.

    cale

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    thanks guys for the info, i will take more detailed pictures of my stuff and put them up later tonight.

    cale

  9. #34
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    here's what i got:





    it's missing the plug for the lines.



    if anyone can tell me how to make this work as simply as possible i would really appreciate it!

    cale

  10. #35

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    First pic is the altitude compensation solenoids. Don't need 'em.
    Second pic is a canister purge valve. You'll be using that.
    Third pic is, of course, the canister.
    Fourth pic, is assorted solenoids that you don't need.

    So, the objective, as I understand it, is to have a functional vapor canister
    connected to your fuel tank vent line...

    The vent line from the tank will connect onto the canister and to the canister
    purge valve. There are three vacuum nipples on the purge valve. The line
    from the fuel tank and canister will connect to the "middle" nipple on the purge
    valve. If you find any dark red "splice" connectors in any of your vacuum lines,
    that is a restrictor orifice, and it should go between the purge valve and canister.
    Likewise, if you find a blue "splice" connector, that's a smaller restrictor, and
    it should go between the tank line and the canister. I don't know that any
    of these are strictly necessary, but if you have them I'd use them.

    The bottom line on the canister purge valve (closest to the flat side) goes to
    manifold vacuum, and the top nipple would normally go to EGR vacuum. If your
    carb does not have EGR, you can use distributor ported vacuum instead. The
    factory used a brown delay valve in this line. If you have one, use it.

    <edit>
    The canister does not just mount by that single tab. There is a metal bracket
    that attaches to the frame rail, and the canister slots into that bracket. The
    tab is for a bolt that just keeps the canister in place. It won't hold the weight
    of the canister for very long. When you go hunting down the "F" fitting for the
    canister, snag a bracket too. Neither are Mustang-specific, so they shouldn't be
    too hard to find.
    </edit>
    Last edited by JACook; 02-25-2009 at 09:02 PM. Reason: Mo'Info...
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  11. #36
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    First pic is the altitude compensation solenoids. Don't need 'em.
    Second pic is a canister purge valve. You'll be using that.
    Third pic is, of course, the canister.
    Fourth pic, is assorted solenoids that you don't need.

    So, the objective, as I understand it, is to have a functional vapor canister
    connected to your fuel tank vent line...

    The vent line from the tank will connect onto the canister and to the canister
    purge valve. There are three vacuum nipples on the purge valve. The line
    from the fuel tank and canister will connect to the "middle" nipple on the purge
    valve. If you find any dark red "splice" connectors in any of your vacuum lines,
    that is a restrictor orifice, and it should go between the purge valve and canister.
    Likewise, if you find a blue "splice" connector, that's a smaller restrictor, and
    it should go between the tank line and the canister. I don't know that any
    of these are strictly necessary, but if you have them I'd use them.

    The bottom line on the canister purge valve (closest to the flat side) goes to
    manifold vacuum, and the top nipple would normally go to EGR vacuum. If your
    carb does not have EGR, you can use distributor ported vacuum instead. The
    factory used a brown delay valve in this line. If you have one, use it.

    <edit>
    The canister does not just mount by that single tab. There is a metal bracket
    that attaches to the frame rail, and the canister slots into that bracket. The
    tab is for a bolt that just keeps the canister in place. It won't hold the weight
    of the canister for very long. When you go hunting down the "F" fitting for the
    canister, snag a bracket too. Neither are Mustang-specific, so they shouldn't be
    too hard to find.
    </edit>
    thanks, jeff! i already have the frame bracket on my car. it was included in all my parts as well. you are spot on with the objective. i'm going to get around to starting this tomorrow. i'm sure i'll come across a snag and will need help again with this!

    cale

  12. #37
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    jeff, is this correct? i think i have the red restrictor orifice, all it looks like is a vacuum hose connector that is faded-clearish whitish in colour with a slight red tinge. if that's it, i think i have a blue one like that on a spare reducer hose for my washer pump.

    cale

  13. #38

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    Yep, that's a good picture.

    The restrictor orifices are not usually clear-ish, but who knows. Look inside, if
    it's a restrictor, it will be obvious, especially with the blue one. It has about a
    .020" hole. The red one, IIRC, is around .060".
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  14. #39
    FEP Senior Member GTJerry's Avatar
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    Cale - Hope this doesn't confuse things, but here is a photo of the tubing and components as it was removed from my 85 parts car (Holley 4180C). Having a little problem with labeling, so I hope everything is legible.

    The only thing I can't remember for sure is where the hose with the red tape in the middle of the photo goes. I think it went through the fire wall and toward the rear of the car so I'm thinking it might go to the gas tank?

    Please jump in Jeff if I have missed something here.

    Jerry


    Last edited by GTJerry; 02-28-2009 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Fix picture caption
    67 Cougar
    85 Jalepeno Red GT
    85 Bright Red RS
    88 Smoke Grey GT Hatch
    88 Bright Regata Blue GT Hatch
    89 Bright Regata Blue GT Vert

  15. #40

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    Jerry, the hose with the green tape does not go to ported vacuum. It goes to
    a nipple on the front of the EGR spacer, which is manifold vacuum. (The smaller
    of the two nipples on the front of the carburetor baseplate, OTOH, -is- ported
    vacuum.)

    The rest of the purge plumbing is a bit jumbled. The middle port on each purge
    valve should have a line that goes to each canister. These hoses are also connected
    together, and the line from the tank ties into the connection between them.

    So, the red taped hose on the upper purge valve, then, does 'sorta' go to the gas
    tank, it's just not a direct connection.

    The brown and black delay valve goes to EGR vacuum, which also goes to the
    TAD solenoid.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  16. #41
    FEP Senior Member GTJerry's Avatar
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    Thanks, Jeff. As soon as I posted that picture I realized my boo-boo on the ported vacuum. That line does indeed go to the front of the carb base plate.

    What would happen if one of the solenoid valves was stuck open?
    67 Cougar
    85 Jalepeno Red GT
    85 Bright Red RS
    88 Smoke Grey GT Hatch
    88 Bright Regata Blue GT Hatch
    89 Bright Regata Blue GT Vert

  17. #42
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    i only need 1 purge valve and one cannister, right?? jerry has 2.

    cale

  18. #43

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    Right. For what you're doing one will do fine.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  19. #44
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    i've been really looking at everything. the purge valve i have seems to work just fine. i cleaned it up and it look like new.

    the charcoal canister i have, when you shake it, it feels and sounds as if it is full of sand. is this ok? you have to smell it directly to smell any gas, and i was told that's what does them in.

    so, would jerry's car have the additional canister and purge valve just for vapours from the carburetor?

    as i showed in the picture my setup is very different from jerry's. was mine a cfi setup? i cut the thing all apart looking for those restrictor orifices but all it had was a bunch of vacuum hose butt connectors.

    i'm headed out to the pull a part in the morning to get the missing stuff. they have some 4 banger foureyed mustangs out there, along with other 80's fords. does it sound like i need a canister?

    thanks again,
    cale

  20. #45
    FEP Senior Member GTJerry's Avatar
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    My set up has two cannisters with hoses from each bowl of the carb - primary and secondary. I think you could combine those two hoses from the carb vents into one hose and just use the one cannister.

    Not sure why Ford used two for the carb version. The hoses removed from my parts car only had connectors - I didn't find any restrictor orifices. Just the check valve to the solenoids on the firewall.

    For some reason I have three of the cannisters - two of them rattle a little like some of the charcoal is a little loose at the top (maybe not too surprising since the car was totalled by running into something hard with the passenger side front end). The other cannister is tight -no rattle. But I don't think it should matter if a some of the charcoal is not tightly packed.

    Jerry
    67 Cougar
    85 Jalepeno Red GT
    85 Bright Red RS
    88 Smoke Grey GT Hatch
    88 Bright Regata Blue GT Hatch
    89 Bright Regata Blue GT Vert

  21. #46
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    to further complicate things for the better, i got this stuff:



    those two things on the right i believe to be delay valves. the brown/white one says dist on the brown side, vac on the white side. has a ford code E3AE-DA

    the black/white valve says dist on the black side, and carb on the white side. it has the ford part number E3AE-EA.

    should i use these? i only have one ported vacuum source on my carb and it's hooked to my vacuum advance on my distributor. i was thinking i should tee this line and run one side to the purge valve. on the other side of the tee distributor side i would put one of these delay valves. is this right? what valve should i use?

    and on the far right i got the fitting for the charcoal canister. i'm going to replace the split o-ring (i can't believe i got this thing out of the cannister without breaking anything! after seeing it's design), but you'll notice the orifice valve. i looked on every car for that red one but none of them had it. and for my next question:



    is this where that fitting goes? his canister looks different from mine on top. on the top left side of my canister around the perimeter of the square where the vent is it says 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 in a counterclockwise direction from the 10 o'clock. on the right side in the same manner its says G F E D C B A. you can actually see what i'm talking about in my pic in post #34. i just want to know for sure because it will be a PITA to get the fitting out if it matter what side it goes in.

    and thanks again for helping me with this, i'd be lost without you guys.

    cale
    Last edited by cb84capri; 03-02-2009 at 12:27 AM.

  22. #47

  23. #48
    FEP Senior Member GTJerry's Avatar
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    A couple of things to start.

    Per Jeff's earlier comment (and my mistake) the vacuum tube connects to the base of the carb - actually mine connects to the EGR spacer. It's really hard to see the connection point. It's under the EGR heat shield next to the coil. You should be able to feel it. See pics 1 and 2. It was easier for me to get this hose attached if I unbolted the coil from the intake. (Don't take offense on the rusty EGR spacer - the previous owner stored this car without a hood and air cleaner - in Seattle where it rains sometimes. Lot of rusty parts, but at least they are good for illustration purposes.)

    The brown/black check valve that I showed in the earlier photo (the one that's broken) has the same E3A-DA number as yours. Not sure where the black/white valve would go. The brown/black one is used in my two 85s.

    Third and fourth pics show two cannisters from two different 85s. Both with numbers as you described for the cannister you have.

    Jerry
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    67 Cougar
    85 Jalepeno Red GT
    85 Bright Red RS
    88 Smoke Grey GT Hatch
    88 Bright Regata Blue GT Hatch
    89 Bright Regata Blue GT Vert

  24. #49
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    thanks for the pictures, jerry. i don't have an egr spacer, i was wondering if using this valve would keep the added in purge valve from interfering with the distributor.

    i got those delay valves off of two different cars.

    cale

  25. #50

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    You can hook the manifold vacuum line from the purge valve to the tree on the
    back of the intake if you don't have the EGR spacer anymore. The brown delay
    valve goes in the line between your distributor vacuum source and the purge
    valve. You can just tee into the line to the distributor.

    The numbers on the delay valves are engineering numbers, and are not the best
    way to identify the valves. I've got two brown-sided valves with the same number
    molded into 'em, and they work exactly opposite each other. Fortunately, that's
    not so important for this project.

    What you want is the valve to be installed so that it resists applying vacuum
    to the purge valve, and easily releases the purge valve when vacuum goes away.
    Or to put it another way, the end you can blow through goes toward the purge
    valve.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

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