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  1. #1

    Default headlite wire upgrade. 1 problem

    i just did a headlight wire upgrade on my 86 gt vert per the attached diagram.

    everything works great. still using the stock sealed beam lights. only problem is the bulb outage light stays on, but all the lights are on and working. when i put the high beams on the light turns off. i've spliced in the relays at the front left just before where the wires go into the loom that runs along the front of the rad. has anyone done this upgrade? i've heard something about a resistence wire somewhere, but don't quite understand. any help please!!
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  2. #2
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Default

    did you use 2 relays? 1 for low and 1 for high beam.
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  3. #3

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    i sure did. wired it just like the attached pic

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member Mad Max's Avatar
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    My theory is you've change the electical load that the circuit sees. Insted of seeing four light and six filiments in will only see the two realays with a resistance is much greater. Greater resitance looks like an open filiment
    82 Capri RS, 5.8L, solid drop mounts, areomotive fuel system, 3" exhaust, ROD six speed, MM torque arm suspension, "mathis" 90 k-member, 04 cobra control arms, h&r springs, koni shocks, m-2300-k, caged, battery relocate

  5. #5

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    According to Daniel Stern Lighting, there's a way to recover the bulb outage function once modifying for relays ... but he doesn't give it in his site.

    From memory, for each light circuit, a resistor provides a reference voltage to the outage module. For each burned bulb, this voltage drops and the module lights the corresponding led.

    Maybe it's possible to recover the function by simply feeding the bulb both by the original harness and the relays ? but that'll be a bit tricky to wire ...
    '79 Pace Car 5.0 (well 4.2 until better days)
    '80 Capri 2.3 (sold ) - '79 Hatchback 2.3 (sold ) - '80 Notchback 3.3 (junk yard )

  6. #6

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    I am checking my EVTM for the schematic. I will post what I find. Here is a start:

    "The headlamp warning indicator will only show a burnt-out low beam. It does not show if a high beam is burnt-out."

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  7. #7

    Default

    I have copied the 3 pages of the EVTM that pertain to this as JPG's.







    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  8. #8

    Default

    Here is a modified schematic to make the "Graphic Warning Module" function:



    You need to find the 12V source, the resistance wire, and the reference wire for the GWM. The relay trigger wire (headlamp switch output) needs to be separated and the source, the resistance, and the reference wire need to be added as a parallel loop to the relay output.

    I will try to explain it better if this is still unclear.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  9. #9

    Default

    wow!!! thats alot of info to absorb. thank you soooo much 85GTVince. i'm very new at electrical. just started learning during my restoration project. right now just looking at it i'm confused. but this weekend when i can get out there and see what i'm reading it should come together. 3 questions.... is the resistence wire br/lb? what is the reference wire and color? and will i keep it wired like i have it, and just add the wires you've drawn in?

  10. #10

    Default

    I have recently done this to my capri, but removed all the original wire harness outside of a low beam signal wire and a high beam signal wire I have two relays as well I also found some after market lights on evilbay. I basically did mine so my h4 bulbs would work correctly and I would have 4 low and 4 high beams. My problem is I cant get my high beam lights to work, and the same problem you are having did you get this to work? My relays are wired a little differently. I wired mine in the thought that the low beam lights stayed on even when the high beams turned on.

  11. #11

    Default

    Post a copy of your schematic and we can probably solve the problem.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  12. #12

    Default

    Ok I hope this makes sense to you. Thnaks for all your help.
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  13. #13

    Default

    I see nothing wrong in your diagram except the middle-wire of the bulbs should be ground. However your lo-beams won't stay on whith hi-heams with it.
    '79 Pace Car 5.0 (well 4.2 until better days)
    '80 Capri 2.3 (sold ) - '79 Hatchback 2.3 (sold ) - '80 Notchback 3.3 (junk yard )

  14. #14

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    Well I was just trying to pull it out my memory as best I could. My problem is the factory wiring harness shuts the low beams off when it turns on the high beams , so when I turn the high beams on I loose all headlights. I also have the same problem pudman has. If I go to flash my high beams without fully turning them on the high beams work I don't know The light bulbs are wired right I promise I just wasn't sure on the diagram.

  15. #15

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    Shutting the lo-beams while on hi is mandatory ... the bulbs wires won't be able to handle the heat generated while on together.

    While reading again your diagram, i see the problem ...
    You have battery to power the lo-beam. That's ok to light lo-beam. But when you trigger the hi-beams, the lo-beam relay is again opened, so you don't have power from the battery for the hi-beams.
    Simply run a wire from the battery to the hi-beam relay and it should work.
    '79 Pace Car 5.0 (well 4.2 until better days)
    '80 Capri 2.3 (sold ) - '79 Hatchback 2.3 (sold ) - '80 Notchback 3.3 (junk yard )

  16. #16

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    Thanks man I got it working today I appreciate all your help.

  17. #17

    Default

    I know you said that you got it working, but here are a couple comments based on the schematic you posted.

    To make this work as you intended...
    1. Remove the green jumper wire between the relays.
    2. Add a jumper from the blue low beam wire to the 87 terminal of the low beam relay.
    3. Add a power line from the battery to the 30 terminal of the high beam relay.

    With that said, you should not wire it this way. Having 4 low beams is illegal in many locations and even if it is not technically illegal, it will make the cops pull you over. Also the H4 bulbs are not designed to have both filaments lighted at the same time except for a brief moment like a "flash to pass".

    You should seriously consider doing it like the earlier post in this thread.

    Although, I'm glad that you got it working.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  18. #18

    Default

    didn't get to look at my wiring this weekend... raining. but to make another comment my low beams stay on when the highs are on. it's always been like that even before i did the wire upgrade. one other thing i've discovered is my bulb out lite DOES NOT come on if i turn the headlights on at any time when the engine is not running. key in the "acc" ,"on" , or no key at all
    1986 gt vert 5 spd. 376,000+ original miles. (only engine work done..timing chain twice). original tranny, rearend, etc. original owner. (still passes calif smog legally!!) gotta love a mustang
    FRPP "C" springs; strut tower support; g- load brace; welded full length sfc's; kyb shocks/struts/quads; 6 pt.roll bar; msd 6a ignition; 5 pt. Diest harness; 3g 150 amp alternator

  19. #19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pudman View Post
    ...to make another comment my low beams stay on when the highs are on. it's always been like that even before i did the wire upgrade...
    Is it the "low beams" or the second filament in the outer lights? The outer lights have 2 filaments and they should switch to the "high beam" filament when you use the high beams. This will give you 4 illuminated headlights.

    When you hit the "flash to pass" you should get both outer light filaments and the inner high beams. Does this work this way for you?

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  20. #20

    Default

    "low beams" only the 2 inner lights are on. "high beams" the 2 inner lights stay on and the 2 outer lights are on. "flash to pass" looks no different than the "high beams"
    1986 gt vert 5 spd. 376,000+ original miles. (only engine work done..timing chain twice). original tranny, rearend, etc. original owner. (still passes calif smog legally!!) gotta love a mustang
    FRPP "C" springs; strut tower support; g- load brace; welded full length sfc's; kyb shocks/struts/quads; 6 pt.roll bar; msd 6a ignition; 5 pt. Diest harness; 3g 150 amp alternator

  21. #21

    Default

    Ain't supposed to be this way ....
    lo-beam -> two outer lights on
    hi-beam -> 4 lights on on second filament
    flash-to-pass -> don't have on '79 but guess it should be lo-beam filament on for the two outer lights + second filament of the 4
    '79 Pace Car 5.0 (well 4.2 until better days)
    '80 Capri 2.3 (sold ) - '79 Hatchback 2.3 (sold ) - '80 Notchback 3.3 (junk yard )

  22. #22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pudman View Post
    "low beams" only the 2 inner lights are on. "high beams" the 2 inner lights stay on and the 2 outer lights are on. "flash to pass" looks no different than the "high beams"
    Your wiring is not correct!

    Low beam = 2 outer lights on low filament.
    High beam = 2 outer lights on high filament + 2 inner lights on their only filament.
    Flash = low beams + high beams.

    Are you using stock style sealed beams? (I think so from your earlier post.)

    If so the outer lamps should have 3 terminals and the inner lamps should have 2 terminals. Are yours this way?

    You must get the lamps working properly before you do anything with the light out display.

    Answer these questions and then we can work on fixing the problem.

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  23. #23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTVince View Post
    Low beam = 2 outer lights on low filament.
    High beam = 2 outer lights on high filament + 2 inner lights on their only filament.
    Flash = low beams + high beams.
    --Vince
    you're absolutely right. i don't know who posted that reply LOL It is just the way you've described
    1986 gt vert 5 spd. 376,000+ original miles. (only engine work done..timing chain twice). original tranny, rearend, etc. original owner. (still passes calif smog legally!!) gotta love a mustang
    FRPP "C" springs; strut tower support; g- load brace; welded full length sfc's; kyb shocks/struts/quads; 6 pt.roll bar; msd 6a ignition; 5 pt. Diest harness; 3g 150 amp alternator

  24. #24

    Default

    pudman,
    Are your lights functioning correctly? Is your only issue the warning light?

    --Vince
    + Jalapeņo Red 1985 Mustang GT, 347 in^3, Canfield heads, 650DP, X-Celerator, & 1-5/8" LT's
    + Tremec 3550, D&D shifter, 3.73:1 gears, & TrueTrac differential
    + EVM watts & 3-link, Homemade LCA's, & Koni SA's
    + '00 Cobra R Brembos in front and SN95 Cobra rear brakes, R58 rims, & 275/40R17 Falkens
    www.1985mustanggt.com

  25. #25

    Default

    Unless he mixxed up the connectors? It's been said many times but: outside lights are hi/lo inside lights are hi only, actually I dont think the connectors are the same.

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