Any progress yet?
Any progress yet?
nothing, was kind of hoping for some more feedback so i can continue, kind of out of my league at this point.. only thing i can think of is wires but i dont know where and i dont want to tear the harness apart and end up finding nothing.
Those readings pretty well prove the regulator is not working. 2.5 Volts
on the field will not produce much if any alternator output.
Just because that regulator is new doesn't mean it's good.
That's about what a good alternator will produce with a full field at idle speed.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook
'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune
well all right then, a new regulator is in order and ill get back to you with what happens?
ok, new regulator everything seems to be working just fine now. but uh none of my gauges work/work accurately, what would you suggest about that? still the green wire?
The ammeters on these cars rarely show much activity. The fuel, oil, and temp
gauge all operate off a Voltage regulator on the backside of the instrument panel.
The way you tell if that's working properly is to disconnect the wire to the temp
sender, and meter between the harness connector and ground, using an -analog-
meter. Reason for the analog meter is that the factory regulator is a very simple
bi-metal strip with contacts, and it regulates by switching on and off. Like a turn
signal flasher, only faster. A digital meter does not show these pulses very well.
The reading should average 5 Volts.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook
'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune
Could i possibly... buy new gauges all around and cut the wires from the connector and route them to each gauge individually? and if i need a regulator for that, either way it would work right?
and off topic but may as well ask real quick cause i cant find any info on it- my 1983 Mustang GT 5.0 4 Barrel H.O. birthday is 12/82, is it an 8.8 rear? or 7.5
7.5 unless it's been swapped out. The 7.5 has rounded sides to the diff cover while the 8.8 is more square-ish.and off topic but may as well ask real quick cause i cant find any info on it- my 1983 Mustang GT 5.0 4 Barrel H.O. birthday is 12/82, is it an 8.8 rear? or 7.5
1979 Base Model Coupe- 351w, C4, 3.73s, the fun machine- Now getting a lot more well deserved mileage put on her!
2007 Forest River Sunseeker 2200 Class C motorhome on an E-450 chassis. Oh yeah!
2013 Subaru Crosstrek XV Premium- Marine Blue w/ 5-speed, awesome little car.
bleh ill survive i guess running maybe 290-310 HP if im lucky, thanks for the info
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