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  1. #1

    Default Rattletrap piece of noisy Junk!!!! Let's talk sound deadners

    I'm old

    Vert is running, got a lopey tfs 1 cam in, and all the usual bolt ons.

    drive the damned thing, and I suddenly got pissed at how loud the car was.

    it's not even the exhaust...it's all the road noise (vert)

    but it all seems to be coming in from the floor pans and doors more than the windows.

    what have you guys done to quiet these cars up while not adding a ton of weight or cost??

    I want to add 50 pounds or less and spend as little as possible.

    This thing sucks to drive....all I hear is road noise, and it's at a deafening level
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member smokinn85's Avatar
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    You can start with replacing the door and window seals. That will help with the wind/road noise. Next, polyurethane bushings front to back. I've had Mustang owners drive my car and are amazed at how tight it feels and quiet it drives when it comes to rattles/clanks. It has to be the bushings and I haven't even finished installing them all. I still have the a-arm bushings to install.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Energ...Q5fAccessories

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-95...Q5fAccessories

  3. #3
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    You will be amazed at the difference if you use products like these guys sell. Or dynamat. There are others too.

    http://www.secondskinaudio.com

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member holtzer1's Avatar
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    x2 on the dynomat...had it in my car audio comp car....amazing stuff, not exactly cheap though
    85 GT: bbk headers and H pipe, 3" flowmasters, k&n, bbk springs, eagle alloys, msd ignition system, a/c delete...currently at body shop receiving some fresh copper metallic pearl paint

    RICERS: PROOF THAT AN I.Q. IS NOT A REQUIREMENT TO PURCHASE A CAR

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member tman1257's Avatar
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    I like the Dynamat type of products also. I used some in my last car for the stereo I had in it. Some of the spray on sound deadeners work good also and don't add as much weight as the mat type of products.

  6. #6

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    Lots of less expensive alternatives to Dynamat.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Mad Max's Avatar
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    rhino guard the floor pans and trunk, dynamat (or similar) the rest and replace all the rubber moldings/seals
    82 Capri RS, 5.8L, solid drop mounts, areomotive fuel system, 3" exhaust, ROD six speed, MM torque arm suspension, "mathis" 90 k-member, 04 cobra control arms, h&r springs, koni shocks, m-2300-k, caged, battery relocate

  8. #8
    FEP Member darkwriter77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    Lots of less expensive alternatives to Dynamat.
    +1

    I've seen somewhere that someone used some rolls of roofing material from Home Depot that was VERY cheap. Maybe look into that as an alternative...?
    1986 GMC S-15 ext. cab 2.8 - DAILY BEATER.

    1989 Mustang LX 5.0 notch - T-5, 4.10, alum. DS, KC clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, O/R-X and Violator cat-back, A/C delete - WEEKEND TOY.

  9. #9

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    thanks guys...this is exactly what I was hoping for.

    less expensive choices.

    if anyone knows one for a fact, post a link.

    ALso, if anyone knows added weight too, that would help.
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  10. #10

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member
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    I would never use roofing material in my car .
    The smell would always be there .
    The spray in bed liner material I think is a pretty good alternative , it's weight would be according to how much was applied .
    I know the rhino products can be colored to match .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member tman1257's Avatar
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    www.cascadeaudio.com

    There are some products here that I have used in the past. The cost was alot less than dynamat products and did a similar job imo.

  13. #13
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    i used RAAMAT in my hatch. put it on the floor pans, inner quarters, firewall, and roof. i still have to do the doors. it made a great difference. car has F cam, headers, o/r h, flows and turn downs. driving the car down the interstate with the windows up and AC on is still comfortable. can talk on the cell phone at 2500rpms no prob.

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member myler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashley roachclip View Post
    I would never use roofing material in my car .
    The smell would always be there .
    The spray in bed liner material I think is a pretty good alternative , it's weight would be according to how much was applied .
    I know the rhino products can be colored to match .
    The weight is almost non existant. Acctually the equivalent to putting a quart of paint in your trunk but applied more evenly.

    I suppose it's probably a developed gripe but if you aren't a fan of road noise why go with the vert?
    1985 Mustang GT:
    347 stroker
    Holley 750 double pumper
    xe274hr comp cam
    Victor jr. intake
    RPM aluminum heads
    roller rockers
    equal length shorty headers
    electric fan
    afco aluminum radiator
    american thunder series flowmasters
    pace setter off road h-pipe
    chrome OEM cobra rims

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by myler View Post
    The weight is almost non existant. Acctually the equivalent to putting a quart of paint in your trunk but applied more evenly.

    I suppose it's probably a developed gripe but if you aren't a fan of road noise why go with the vert?
    LOL, it's a valid question I ask myself to this date. I'll tell you without telling my life story

    12 years ago I had an 85 crown victoria. Best freaking car on the planet.

    anyhow, on a complete impulsive whim, I detored down a street known for small car dealers and had decided I'll look at some 5.0 mustangs.

    First dealer I come across had this very clean very shiny 86 5.0 convertible.

    problem is, it had the wrong front end on it, and I couldn't drive stick and it was a convertible LOL, for 3-4 years after that I had planned on an "update" to the front end. Finally, on my own, I began to love it for it's distinction.

    Anyhow, I test drove the the 86 vert that day, and on an add impulsive buy, which was a huge buy for me back then, I bought it and forced myself to learn stick.

    i never wanted a convertible, a stick or a foureyed front end.

    I love the stick and 4 eyed front end, but I still wish it was a coupe. 12 years passed and somehow I never got rid of it.

    I've had the car for so damned long now, it's grown on me sentimentally and I'm having a hell of a time dumping it.

    so that's that. I'm stuck with it.
    the 86 ssp that I co own with my pops is dead quiet compared to my noisy vert.
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member Mazlem's Avatar
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    After you put some deadener on, cover it with closed-cell foam. The Luxury Liner Pro looks nice for the floor from SecondSkinAudio but I haven't tried it. The deadener adds mass stops rattles and dampens noise; the foam absorbs higher noise frequencies. When I opened up the doors in my 84 there wasn't hardly any room to get inside, so I just put the deadener and foam on the door panels an that helped a bit.

    The deadener I used from RAAMAudio.com weighs .35lbs per sq ft. 22lbs for a 62.5 sq ft roll. I put 2 rolls in the 84 (hatchback), but just one aughta do the doors and floor in yours. Be sure to overlap the pieces, and add a second layer if it still sounds hollow when you wrap on it. Rip up whatever deadener is in there; sometimes a heat gun helps. The new stuff needs to adhere to the metal to do it's job. And whatever you do stay away from that peel an seal roofing crap!

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member anthonydalrymple's Avatar
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    Some more thoughts.... Your chassis has quite a few miles on it. Try to identify what sounds your hearing; get someone like myself or your brother to drive or ride and listen as well. Inspect for the obvious: look at the bushings on the upper & lower control arms, look too see if the shocks are leaking fluid onto the lower portion of the bodies, rack bushings, tire condition(some tires are loud from day one no matter what you do), rear diff gear whine?, rolling bearing noise like a bad axle bearing?, wind noise from bad door or top seals?etcetera... Make a list... Worst case senario; you at least know where on the car to insulate or perform repairs first.....
    '89 5.0 5-speed 'vert, seeing rust for the 1st time in it's life as well as 4,500+ elevation....

  18. #18
    Parts Destroyer gdniel's Avatar
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    Just a question, do you still have the insulation on the back of the carpet? When mine got wet and I removed it (my vert) the noise level more than doubled. It was undriveable with a bare metal floor. With the carpet and the factory carpet backing, the only noise I have is road noise. I run the same engine combo as you, 3.73 gears, 2.5 OR h-pipe and 2 chamber flos.
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  19. #19
    FEP Senior Member smokinn85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anthonydalrymple View Post
    Some more thoughts.... Your chassis has quite a few miles on it. Try to identify what sounds your hearing; get someone like myself or your brother to drive or ride and listen as well. Inspect for the obvious: look at the bushings on the upper & lower control arms, look too see if the shocks are leaking fluid onto the lower portion of the bodies, rack bushings, tire condition(some tires are loud from day one no matter what you do), rear diff gear whine?, rolling bearing noise like a bad axle bearing?, wind noise from bad door or top seals?etcetera... Make a list... Worst case senario; you at least know where on the car to insulate or perform repairs first.....
    Good advice. Dynamat is a great product, but it won't address the REAL problem...which is worn rubber bushings or loose components inside the car. Just because you can't hear the rattles after installing Dynamat or a similar product, doesn't mean it's fixed.

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    i have to disagree with that bit is about polyurethane quieting the ride. it transmits more noise, and vibration into the chassis. there has been noticeably more noise and ride harshness with every polyurethane component i have put on my car.

    cale

  21. #21
    FEP Super Member anthonydalrymple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cb84capri View Post
    i have to disagree with that bit is about polyurethane quieting the ride. it transmits more noise, and vibration into the chassis. there has been noticeably more noise and ride harshness with every polyurethane component i have put on my car.

    cale
    I agree for the most part with that. They also can squeak quite a bit if they are not lubed to absolute perfection.... Not all aftermarket poly bushings come with grease zerks & channels for the grease to flow to the proper areas as I have found out the hard way IMHO.....
    '89 5.0 5-speed 'vert, seeing rust for the 1st time in it's life as well as 4,500+ elevation....

  22. #22
    FEP Senior Member smokinn85's Avatar
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    Maybe I've just been lucky. My 87 Scirocco did squeak a little, but then again, I didn't do the install. With my Stang, I made sure I used a liberal amount of white grease on the bushing without zerk fittings before installing them. I especially like the poly engine and trans mounts. I don't have any vibration from the drive line coming through and there's little to no movement. The Granitelli LCA's (poly bushings) are awesome also. Eliminated all of my wheel hop, which was d@mn near unbearable at times.

  23. #23

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    about half the bushings on the car are energy suspension...rack bushings, motor mounts, trans x member mounts and trans mount.

    upper and lower control arms out back are newish and lubed.

    it's not bushing squeaks I hear, or I'd address that...it's a giant roar...just lots of road noise.
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  24. #24
    Chris Wood
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    Here is exactly what I used http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...2&ddkey=Search

    Quote Originally Posted by darkwriter77 View Post
    +1

    I've seen somewhere that someone used some rolls of roofing material from Home Depot that was VERY cheap. Maybe look into that as an alternative...?
    I did! I used it on my Capri and my Lightning. It goes on very well, from what I have seen and read, it looks just like the original dynamat. I cleaned the floor, doors, etc VERY well before applying it. One roll does about 25 square feet, takes about 5 rolls to do a car, rolls are about $16 each, $80 total plus some elbow grease, and cleaner. 1 roll weighs about as much as a quart of water-2 pounds. So you are adding 10-15 pounds to your car. Besides the words lightweight and sounddeadner do not belong in the same sentence when discussing automotive applications.

    Quote Originally Posted by ashley roachclip View Post
    I would never use roofing material in my car .
    The smell would always be there .
    The spray in bed liner material I think is a pretty good alternative , it's weight would be according to how much was applied .
    I know the rhino products can be colored to match .
    No, it dosen't smell at all--it is covered on one side with aluminum--just like dynamat!

    Also, like mentioned good suspension bushings, and new seals would go along too.
    Last edited by Chris Wood; 01-06-2009 at 01:13 PM.

  25. #25
    FEP Senior Member Mazlem's Avatar
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    What tires are you running? That can play a big roll in road noise too.

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