Rattletrap piece of noisy Junk!!!! Let's talk sound deadners

[biscwgn]

Hey i used fatmat in my vert, i wanted it quieter and i'm running a single turbo setup and the way i did my exhaust i didn't want any extra heat in car, it worked awesome, my car is quieter than a hardtop inside and floor boards are cool to the touch. here is website www.fatmat.com

[85stanggt]

Any updates on the headliner idea? Has anyone installed a Lebaron or FMR headliner and have feedback about how it worked?

[qtrracer]

Someone above said it would be nice to compare verts with good as opposed to not so good sealing/sound-deadener. Well, I've been doing that now since 01. My 01 vert is at least a manitude quieter than the 86. I posted above what I found wrong with the 86. And the 01 does have the inside top liner - it does quiet noise over the top and any "flopping" sound the top makes against the bows. Not only is it quieter, especially when it rains, but it is also warmer in the cold and not as hot with the top up in the sun (i.e., the A/C works better). Although I haven't mesured it, audio sound reproduction seems less distorted/more accurate too. But Ford did a much better job designing the sn95 verts so I'm not certain this is an apples to apples comparison. I will say that now that the 01 is nearly 8 years old, some of the weather stripping is beginning to show its age and I've developed some wind noise; not nearly as bad as the 86 but new nonetheless - this is at the front header where the top meets the window as one might expect. Otherwise, the two are not even close. I will put an inner liner on the 86 but am a little concerend with the aftermarket fastener design - I think it's velcro. I talked to my top guy about this and in his opinion, if the liner works as well as the later designs, it would be worth the extra expense when putting a new top in - which I will be doing. However he was also concerned about the fastener design and whether it would hold up to repeated use. He's put a few in but hasn't had any user feed-back yet other than the usual post initial installation happiness.

[85stanggt]

Do I understand correctly when I say that the headliner can't be installed except when doing a new top?

The guy who installed my last top put a "headliner" in, but it is just a 1/4" thick layer of material that lines the inside of the top. I don't know if this is the kind of headliner you are all thinking about, or if there is a different kind out there that covers the metal framework of the top. This may be what we're talking about, in which case, yes it does make a difference, but there is still a good deal of wind noise at speeds over 45. Does the headliner talked about in this thread line the top, or does it run on the outside of the metal and cover the metal work of the top framework?

[Quick82]

thanks to all that posted info here

[854vragtop]

Here is exactly what I used http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...2&ddkey=Search



I did! I used it on my Capri and my Lightning. It goes on very well, from what I have seen and read, it looks just like the original dynamat. I cleaned the floor, doors, etc VERY well before applying it. One roll does about 25 square feet, takes about 5 rolls to do a car, rolls are about $16 each, $80 total plus some elbow grease, and cleaner. 1 roll weighs about as much as a quart of water-2 pounds. So you are adding 10-15 pounds to your car. Besides the words lightweight and sounddeadner do not belong in the same sentence when discussing automotive applications.



No, it dosen't smell at all--it is covered on one side with aluminum--just like dynamat!

Also, like mentioned good suspension bushings, and new seals would go along too.

I've used the EXACT same stuff and I don't have any smell issues either. I didn't use it on the floors, but inside the trunk and the vertical surfaces behind the rear seat and rear interior quarter panels. It's like a black, rubberized material with foil on one side. I bought a little wooden roller over in the paint department to smooth it down. I haven't compared it to Dynomat, but you can tell a difference just by tapping on an uncovered sheetmetal panel and then one with the roofing material applied.

[JGrono]

I know this is an old thread, but that home depot link is dead. Are you guys talking about flashing tape? Does anybody have a link that works or a name?

[JGrono]

Nevermind, I found the SKU: 914563

Here is a 2014 link:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...keyword=914563

I have used a similar product to seal the top of deck joists from moisture and seal around screw holes. It might not be a good idea to put on doors, but it should be good for places that water won't get behind.

Thanks!

Jim
Update 2: Disregard what I posted below this. I went and looked at some scrap I had left over and it is too thin, but might be good on really tight areas.
Update: For about the same coverage, this stuff is cheaper and lighter:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_124018-81326...ape&facetInfo=

The width is smaller so it will take longer to install, but the difference is only about a sq ft of coverage area, but $10 vs $16. I think I am going to try this.

[84GT350CONV]

After deciding Dynamat and Fatmat were too expensive. I went to Lowes and purchased a roll of radiant barrier and glued it down to the floor and under the rear seat. Huge difference afterwards. The car is very quiet now and better insulated.

[JGrono]

After deciding Dynamat and Fatmat were too expensive. I went to Lowes and purchased a roll of radiant barrier and glued it down to the floor and under the rear seat. Huge difference afterwards. The car is very quiet now and better insulated.

What type of radiant barrier did you use?


Jim

[84GT350CONV]

What type of radiant barrier did you use?


Jim

I already took the label off the roll and threw it away. Basically it looks like aluminum foil on the outside with plastic air pockets in the center. It comes in rolls 2 Ft. or 4 Ft. wide. It's also sold at Home Depot. This stuff is an alternative to spray on radiant barrier and is better in my opinion. It's meant to be stapled under the 2 X 4's on the ceiling in your attic to keep out the heat in the summer. I've used it for many things, including wrapping my hot water heater and insulating the metal panels on my garage doors. Great stuff.

[JGrono]

84, thanks for the reply. At first, I thought you were kidding and I didn't expect a reply. It turns out other people have used it to in cars too. If you put too much pressure on the air pockets won't they pop? I guess it wouldn't be an issue under the seat after the seat was mounted back up

Jim

[84GT350CONV]

84, thanks for the reply. At first, I thought you were kidding and I didn't expect a reply. It turns out other people have used it to in cars too. If you put too much pressure on the air pockets won't they pop? I guess it wouldn't be an issue under the seat after the seat was mounted back up

Jim

I did a lot of crawling around on it after gluing it down. I was reinstalling my dashboard after my heater core blew out and I put new felt seals in the rear quarter windows at the time. Not a single pop. It's pretty durable. I reasoned it would be o.k. since you're not actually walking on it. Had it in my car for 4 months now and I haven't regretted doing it. I'm in the middle of redoing a Cadillac convertible now. I'm confident enough in this stuff to where I'm going to put it in that car too.

[JGrono]

I did a lot of crawling around on it after gluing it down. I was reinstalling my dashboard after my heater core blew out and I put new felt seals in the rear quarter windows at the time. Not a single pop. It's pretty durable. I reasoned it would be o.k. since you're not actually walking on it. Had it in my car for 4 months now and I haven't regretted doing it. I'm in the middle of redoing a Cadillac convertible now. I'm confident enough in this stuff to where I'm going to put it in that car too.

Allright that sounds good enough for me. Since both options are cheap enough, I think I might pickup both at the store and use the tape to secure the radiant barrier only on the large flat portions by folding it in half to sort of make double sided tape so I don't have to mess with glue. Then put on a top layer of the tape over the whole thing and the contoured areas.

Jim

[84GT350CONV]

Allright that sounds good enough for me. Since both options are cheap enough, I think I might pickup both at the store and use the tape to secure the radiant barrier only on the large flat portions by folding it in half to sort of make double sided tape so I don't have to mess with glue. Then put on a top layer of the tape over the whole thing and the contoured areas.

Jim

Glad I could share my idea. I'd just make sure to use good quality tape that won't tear when you put the carpet down and bolt the seats into position. When I pulled out the old carpet I peeled off the insulation from it and added that to the new carpet. in other words I doubled up on that stuff too. Found the build sheet on the drivers side behind the seat. To far gone to save, but I left it there anyway and put it back down where it still is. Got my carpet from Rock Auto.

[Bruce Mohacsy]

I have a little photo collection on my profile showing a Hush Matt install on the floor of my '82 if anyone is interested. I used a trunk kit plus two extra pieces. Massive difference! I plan on doing the hatch area (sides and floor) and door skins this winter. It is a bit expensive but it's brain dead easy to work with. As to the expense....... It just takes longer to save for the project, that's all. One other component that made a massive difference was installing a cowl brace. Reducing flex and vibration means less noise and fewer rattles and squeaks to deal with in the first place. For a vert I would think adding the MM combination of the cowl, K-member and subframe braces would eliminate tons of Shake and shimmy, improve your vehicle dynamics and therefore reduce the actual source of the noise. A relatively inexpensive win, win IMHO! Oh, and I believe that rubber bushings transfer less NVH than poly due to their decreased density. I could be wrong though.

[JGrono]

Bruce,

I agree with you on the bushings, that is on my list. I ended up using the stuff from Home Depot and Lowes. There are about the same price, but the Lowes stuff has a thicker aluminum layer. I needed to redo my headliner also, so I used radiant barrier, and since I had extra, I put that on the flat sections of the floor pan. In some areas, I doubled the Lowes stuff so there is about a half inch of material (not counting the carpet and insulation) in the areas where there is a lot of noise and heat. I am almost done installing new mass backed carpet, and it still fits tightly.

It cost me less than $100 for all the materials, and I would use them again since no one will ever see it again besides me. I made a fiberglass spare tire well enclosure, and this car is like a echo chamber cave now. I usually don't cheap out, but at this point, the amount I have put into this car would have bought me a 2016.

[Two86fiveoh's]

I went with Raamat from www.raamaudio.com. Made an incredible difference in road/exhaust noise and added a more 'quality' feel to the car. One kit was installed, 37.5sq ft of Butyl mat and approx 42 sq ft of closed cell foam. Great product and great price. Easy to install. Was enough to do the floorboards from the firewall to the back seat and both doors.

Closed cell foam on back of the door panel.


Floor boards before I started.



With Butyl Mat.


Final Product

[JGrono]

Butyl mat is also a material used for flashing. That closed cell foam does look really nice!