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Thread: volvo head

  1. #51
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    capri5oh. I appreciate your info. Helped. Wanting to avoid the piston problem. Also since I got it off a turbo volvo. Was wanting to avoid the valve cam change I have read needing on the 16 valve head. Also have read since some not changing them. Like you said everything interferes on driver side. Will probably weld on metal on head. Wanting to make it so I can pull Ford head on Saturday and drop conversion on. Like you planning on running the stock computer, turbo, injectors etc. Thanks Maurice

  2. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by capri5oh View Post
    SATURN5 and I took different routes. Bob's car has custom pistons, megasquirt (I think), large turbo, large injectors. I'm sure his is capable of close to 500 hp and close to 8000 rpm.
    Hold on there partner..

    The short block is untouched except for fresh gaskets and seals.

    Most of the highlights are in my sig.

    I don't know how long mine would live at those numbers...

    So far, I've run 16 lb boost, 6200 rpm... No hard numbers tho.

    Right now I have it torn down a bit. I have some interest in me building another intake and header.

    Bob
    84 SVO B234F 16V, 04 Cobra braked and suspended, T-tops.

  3. #53
    FEP Power Member Ford'sCapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by capri5oh View Post
    I'm running the stock distributor. The 40Bob intake is high enough to clear the distributor. Its tight though. I have to take the intake off to get the cap off the distributor but I can change the plug wires though.
    That's cool. I've seen another guy (Colin) do the swap on his Merkur and noticed he had to get rid of the p/s and used the DIS because of his custom intake. Seeing your swap makes it seem much more approachable, although if I did it I would have the extra metal welded to the head so it was a easier swap from block to block. Just my preference I guess. BTW, are those stock brackets for the p/s pump and the alt.?
    -John-

    79 Mercury Capri RS: 5.0L 5 speed swap
    83 Mustang GT: 5.0L 5 Speed
    83 Mustang GT T-Top: 5.0L 5 Speed
    84 Mustang L: 2.3L 4 Speed
    85 LTD Wagon: 358W 5 speed swap
    87 Mustang LX: 5.0L 5 speed swap

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ford'sCapri View Post
    That's cool. I've seen another guy (Colin) do the swap on his Merkur and noticed he had to get rid of the p/s and used the DIS because of his custom intake. Seeing your swap makes it seem much more approachable, although if I did it I would have the extra metal welded to the head so it was a easier swap from block to block. Just my preference I guess. BTW, are those stock brackets for the p/s pump and the alt.?
    The alternator is mounted in a 88 TC AC bracket. The PS is a stock merkur bracket but with the ear cut off. Both brackets were modified to allow the use of individual tensioner pulleys.

    The thing is that my work has limits. Without an aftermarket EFI, larger injectors and a larger turbo power is going to be limited to about 300 horse.

  5. #55
    FEP Power Member Ford'sCapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by capri5oh View Post
    The alternator is mounted in a 88 TC AC bracket. The PS is a stock merkur bracket but with the ear cut off. Both brackets were modified to allow the use of individual tensioner pulleys.

    The thing is that my work has limits. Without an aftermarket EFI, larger injectors and a larger turbo power is going to be limited to about 300 horse.
    I'd be happy with a 300hp 4 banger
    -John-

    79 Mercury Capri RS: 5.0L 5 speed swap
    83 Mustang GT: 5.0L 5 Speed
    83 Mustang GT T-Top: 5.0L 5 Speed
    84 Mustang L: 2.3L 4 Speed
    85 LTD Wagon: 358W 5 speed swap
    87 Mustang LX: 5.0L 5 speed swap

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by SATURN5 View Post
    Hold on there partner..

    The short block is untouched except for fresh gaskets and seals.

    Bob
    My bad then. Sorry.

    I know the stock pistons will clear the valves but it's VERY tight on timing. I suspect that if I had been running uncut pistons the loss of the dowel pin in the exhaust cam would have killed my engine back in June. The exhaust cam retarded about 15 degrees.

    It took me forever to figure out what happened to it. I found it when I finally gave up and started to pull the head back off. When I released the timing belt the exhaust pulley would rotate slightly on the cam shaft!

    It was also down for about a month recently for a wiring short in the instrument cluster. The alternator light copper strip in the circuit board got damaged and was shorted to ground. It kept killing TFI's for no apparent reason. Again, It was really difficult to find.
    Last edited by capri5oh; 12-31-2008 at 10:52 PM.

  7. #57
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    I wondered how long it would take you to chime in there Doc........as you were one of the ones giving me crap over at turboford (where you were more cynical than anything else). Welcome to my backyard now.
    Bob, nice to see you over here; still gotta make it down to see your SVO. Between work and school, money and time have been extremely tight........but am slowly working on this (as I am doing a complete rebuild of the engine and turbo) for school (another reason it is taking longer than I want).
    " If you're not living life on the edge, that means you're taking up too much room."
    1979 Mustang Indy Pace 2.3T/4spd (sold on 1/10/16)
    1983 GLX vert 3.8/auto (triple black, sold on 10/8/13)
    1984 (early) Turbo GT (parts SLOWLY coming together)
    1985 Coupe 4.6L DOHC/IRS swapped (sold 9/10/17)
    1986 GT TTop 5spd (sold as of 10/8/13)
    1988 Thunderbird TurboCoupe (Cobra IRS/Brakes/big turbo project)

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