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  1. #51
    FEP Power Member 85Coupe50's Avatar
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    How are things coming along on this?

    I am putting an 86 EEC Harness in an 85 CFI car.

    Hope all is well. Keep up the good work.

    There are different connectors on the 86 actual harness vs the wiring diagram that is posted.
    Last edited by 85Coupe50; 04-29-2011 at 09:03 AM.
    Only 1 Four eye left now and it is a 64 fairlane 2 door post! Think 408W with Griggs GR350 suspension!

  2. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85Coupe50 View Post
    How are things coming along on this?

    I am putting an 86 EEC Harness in an 85 CFI car.

    Hope all is well. Keep up the good work.

    There are different connectors on the 86 actual harness vs the wiring diagram that is posted.
    Hi,

    Thanks! If you've spotted some omissions please let me know - I want to make this as accurate and helpful as possible.


    This pic with the 3 yellow boxes shows the interface points for the '86 SEFI Main wire harness. Folks with CFI V8s have part of the work done for them since they already have the fuel pump relay circuit and just need to adapt their FPR circuit to the '86 SEFI main wire harness 3-pin connector instead of building the entire FPR circuit from a donor or from scratch.





    (Update 5/18/11 Note: This drawing of the '86 connector is old, please check the previous page for the new R-1 revision)

    So, I take back what I said earlier about the '86 SEFI main wire harness being tougher to adapt to an older 4-eye. I guess with the information provided on the 4 and 8-pin connector next to the power booster (and any other connector(s) I may have missed), it's just a matter of matching up the wiring. As with any wiring, the trick is to get the complete wire harness and find one in good condition.

    Dean T
    Last edited by Dean_T; 05-18-2011 at 11:50 PM.
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  3. #53

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    Okay,

    Here's what I did in April:

    I wanted to install the BAP sensor like Ford has done and use the '86-'93 V8 Vacuum tree.

    The holes on an '86 V8 cowl look like this:



    Note the two red arrows. They point to the holes for the vacuum tree used in the 4 and 6 cylinder '86 Mustangs. This vacuum tree is the same as the one in my '84 and the location on the cowl is the same also.

    My '84's cowl looks like this:



    Arrow No. 1 points to a dimple in which one hole of the BAP sensor bracket lines up. Arrow No. 2 points to a dimple in which the '86-'93 Vacuum tree lines up. I've determined this by taking a piece of paper and making a rubbing of the '86 cowl holes using the windshield washer and wire harness anchor holes as reference points. The dimples on my '84's cowl are exactly where one hole of the BAP sensor bracket and vacuum tree are located. Scary.

    So, I placed each item over one dimple, eyeballed how the bracket and the vacuum tree should be mounted, and drilled the second hole for each.

    Here they are installed:



    Some other things to address. Now that I used the '86-'93 vacuum tree, the vacuum line from this tree to the HVAC vacuum relay is longer than the one for my '84.



    Fortunately, I grabbed the line when I grabbed the vacuum tree.

    Did you know the CFI Four-eyes had an EGR solenoid and it is mounted in the same place as the '86-'93 SEFI V8 Mustangs? I didn't know that until I found the top two holes on the back side of the passenger strut towers matched. I then verified this by locating a wrecked CFI Mustang in the wrecking yard. Thank Ford for CFI!

    BUT, CFI did not mount the TAB/TAD solenoids like the SEFI V8 Mustangs. Bummer.

    So, I grabbed some paper and using the EGR solenoid holes as reference, made a rubbing for the TAB/TAD solenoid holes.



    I then discovered I didn't have any way of making the holes from inside the engine bay so I made the holes for the TAB/TAD solenoid bracket from the strut side of the strut tower.



    Picture of the TAB/TAD solenoid mounted to the strut tower. It came out pretty slick.



    Yellow arrow: Fusible link for GY-Y wire (HEGO power).

    Red Arrows: Damage from mice chewing on the connector and wires. I hate mice.

    If I die and get reincarnated as a mouse, I'm going to crap and pee on every mouse's head I can find...

    Next is mounting the round ball vacuum reservoir for the '84's HVAC and the tuna can vacuum reservoir for the EGR/TAB/TAD solenoids. When I yanked off the passenger fender, this is what I saw:



    Um, where are the holes? Funny thing, I forgot where the '84 originally mounted the HVAC vacuum ball reservoir. I'm screwed.

    Well fortunately, I have access to an '86 inner fender support for reference. More to follow...
    Last edited by Dean_T; 05-07-2011 at 09:12 PM.
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  4. #54

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    Good info Dean!
    1985 Mustang GT Mild 331 4bbl 5 spd, 1985 SEFI LTD LX AOD.
    Cardomain: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/565542
    Mid Size LTD LX Facebook page! http://www.facebook.com/groups/233213650060739/

  5. #55

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    Dean the 84 vacuum ball mounted in the front of the passenger fender. In your pic is go int eh slot at the front of the car and one the holes towards the wheel well opening. I moved mine to the back of the passenger side behind the wheel well opening. I don't if that is right or wrong, but it worked for me and no one can ever see it.
    84 Mustang GT, 91 roller motor,Gt40 heads, vic jr intake, quickfuel 650 carb, MSD ignition, TFS stage 1 cam, 3.73gears in 8.8, rear disc conversion, some nitrous.

  6. #56

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    Marz and Fordfreak300, Thanks. Good info on the vac ball. On the SEFI cars, the vac ball goes on the fender apron support and one end goes into a slot towards the firewall side. Since I'm too lazy to create that slot and I have a crack in the fender apron support in the area near the slot would be, I'm just going to drill two holes and and be done with it.



    Okay, I've drilled one hole already using a rubbing but I have no idea where the slot is exactly since I had chopped the donor '86 Mustang right at the firewall - probably where the slot would have been. I marked my guess in black. Note directly under the black line I added is a thin line with a dot on the end. That is a stress crack I've found and the dot is the relief hole I attemped to drill but quit when I sat there for five minutes trying to drill the dang hole. Stupid dull drill bit.

    Anyway, I got the tuna can vacuum reservoir mounted and the vacuum line from the TAB/TAD solenoids hooked up. I drilled the holes using a rubbing from the '86 Mustang as a guide.

    The rest of the day I spent puttering around.

    I found out the SEFI Mustang cruise control cable is longer than the one on my '84. The cable on top is from the '84 carbed Mustang.



    The cruise control actuator is mounted under the driverside fender on the firewall.



    It's held on by two 10mm bolts. Be careful when tightening them, the sheet metal is thin and these bolts don't seem to be strong enough as it is.

    The washer reservoir is a piece of cake. It uses the bolt hole the driver side air intake duct used and the same slot the '84's combination overflow and washer reservoir had used.



    I may have to lengthen the wires for the washer pump. I didn't see where the low washer fluid level sensor was located - this one may not have that. I'll have to review how the SEFI Mustangs route their washer hose. If you plan on welding in the battery tray nut bracket, you may want to do that first before installing the washer reservoir. I'm just going to epoxy the bracket on.

    Remember what I said about the A/C relay being a bolt on with a pre-existing hole? I lied a bit. There is a second hole missing for the locator tab of the A/C relay bracket. Simple matter of using the bracket to locate the hole and then drill a 3/16" (or there about) hole.



    An unexpected consequence: I bought a Maximum Motorsport strut tower brace but the vacuum tree seems to be in the way. Odd since I swear I installed it in the stock location. I'll have to review the MM install instructions to see if I goofed up.



    Next will be welding up the crack, find the battery tray nut bracket I lost, and maybe getting around to repairing the white 10 pin connector.

    But after I expose FRPP SEFI harness instructions as a pack of lies...
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  7. #57
    FEP Senior Member flyin5-o's Avatar
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    Wow, amazing work. I don't think I could handle the tedium of all that wiring without going psycho!

    Keep the updates coming!

    When are you coming to Wisconsin to do mine?

  8. #58

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    Hey who is this Thompson Motorsports on your strut tower brace
    84 Mustang GT, 91 roller motor,Gt40 heads, vic jr intake, quickfuel 650 carb, MSD ignition, TFS stage 1 cam, 3.73gears in 8.8, rear disc conversion, some nitrous.

  9. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by flyin5-o View Post
    Wow, amazing work. I don't think I could handle the tedium of all that wiring without going psycho!
    Yes Agreed: Insanely skilled thread


    ::man holding spools of special CRAZY wire::

    ::the wires tell me to wire things with wire::

  10. #60
    FEP Senior Member David Claflin's Avatar
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    Good job bud, this info you provided should help me out some, I'm putting SEFI into my 85 LTD LX, using either a 90 or 91 harness, not exactly sure of which one yet.
    1990 Red LX, GT40 heads, CSE cam, Ported explorer intakes, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.30, lightened up some, 7.4X@91, working to get it lower.

    1985 LTD LX, Mach1 brakes, 16" Ford police car wheels. 7.86@86MPH with 302, 3640 pounds with 1/4 tank of gas and me in it. 347 build in progress

    1984 LTD station wagon, with 84GT nose, some might remember it as the old Dugan Racing station wagon.

  11. #61

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    I am really glad I clicked on this thread. I've got a 85 coupe that was orginally a 4 cylinder and was converted to V8 EFI using a 87 truck block. The wiring is all kinds of hacked up and is all over the place with some wires being exposed. They did the aero interior conv., but didn't wire any of the dash gauges to make them work. I'm in the process of getting it running again after I removed the engine etc.

    This thread will come in handy for when I go to finish up the wiring. It's such a mess and just a rats nest in general.

    I'm thinking it might be easier to just get a 87+ wiring harness.

    Do you know if there is a separate wiring harness for the under the dash stuff like tach etc, or is it all one piece if I just use the wiring harness out of an 87+ car?

    Thank you for this thread! Bookmarked and gonna make for a much easier time when I go to tackle my wiring nightmare.
    1985 5.0 Coupe - will eventually be hated by Ford purists

  12. #62
    FEP Senior Member David Claflin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean_T View Post
    If anyone can fill out the information for 1991, I'd like to get that info since that is the one harness I haven't been able to get my hands on.
    I've got what I think is a late 90 harness that I'm working on installing in my 85LTD LX. The only thing I've noticed different so far compared to what you've posted is on the gray 8-pin connector by the brake booster the wire going to the low pressure switch is green/black, whereas you show it as purple.
    Have you seen these diagrams here...
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

    I'm working on a spreadsheet to help me keep track of wiring and perhaps serve as a template for others in the future. If you'd care to look at it PM me your email and I'll send you what I've got.
    Last edited by David Claflin; 05-16-2011 at 10:03 AM.
    1990 Red LX, GT40 heads, CSE cam, Ported explorer intakes, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.30, lightened up some, 7.4X@91, working to get it lower.

    1985 LTD LX, Mach1 brakes, 16" Ford police car wheels. 7.86@86MPH with 302, 3640 pounds with 1/4 tank of gas and me in it. 347 build in progress

    1984 LTD station wagon, with 84GT nose, some might remember it as the old Dugan Racing station wagon.

  13. #63
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Dean,
    You are doing a great job. It looks alot like what I did so many years ago. I made my own 'adapter' harness as well and that is the right way to go.

    Be sure to verify the operation of your TAD and TAB solenoids as well as the EGR solenoid as olds one never seem to work and they will play havoc with the proper operation of your system if they are faulty. The TAD and TAB are really just on/off vacuum switches and the solenoid coils can be checked with 12V. The EGR solenoid is NOT a simple on/off vaccuum switch but a device that works on a duty cycle (similar to the IAB) to vary the vacuum signal sent to the EGR valve. You cannot easily test it and you do not want to hook it directly to 12V.
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  14. #64

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    Wow! Thanks, folks!

    Flyin5-o: Maybe I should demonstrate my car runs rather than go up in a big ball of flames before I wire up your car. I checked in on your build an I wish I had your welding skills. Too bad we weren't closer, I could use a set of sub-frame connectors welded in!

    lavath: I don't think I'm quite all there to tell the truth - LOL

    Fordfreak300: I bought the strut brace from a really cool dude and learn lots of neat stuff - like how to make Southern' Sun Tea. haha

    David: You have PM (I think you have an early '90 harness. The purple in my harness is similar to th purple used in the '92/'93 harness for the same wire. I just bought a harness from a '90 Mustang scheduled build date of 11/89 and it has a green-deepdeep purple wire for the ac low pressure switch).

    torque overhaul: Wow, you have a handful! As far as I can tell, the gauge and tach wirng are either part of the dash wiring or goes to the underhood wiring harness (which comes out the driver side of the firewall).

    You may have to trace each wire in your dash harness and track down each wire by color and where it goes to.

    Being lazy, I would probably grab a dash wire harness assembly from a known year mustang and then adapt it to the existing computer wiring harness on your car (and also to the underhood wiring harness).

    Maybe this is a sign to go out and buy aftermarket guages!

    TWR2003: Thank you for your support and tips! Saved me from burning up the EGR solenoid. I find putting all this stuff together easy but understanding what does what when and how it all works is a lot tougher. I miss Paul78Zephyr

    Dean
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  15. #65

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    Small update. I manage to weld up the crack without reducing the front end of the '84 Notch into a slag pile and mounted the vacuum ball reservoir. I just drilled a second hole using the reservoir as a guide and bolted it in. I was too lazy to cut and bend a slot in the inner fender support.

    Oh, I also removed the battery tray brackets in preparation on modifying the front inner fender for mounting the air intake box. The red arrows point to the hole and slot locations which the '84 Mustang had it's vacuum ball originally installed.





    Okay,

    How many of you are using this pdf to help in your SEFI conversion? Be careful, it's full of LIES! LIES! YOU CAN'T BELIEVE A WORD IT SAYS!

    http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/M-12071-C302.pdf

    The following page has several errors in the wire color identification:


    Note Ford came out with a later edition of the above instructions. I believe the later edition had a date of 2003 and has the Ford Racing Performance Parts logo rather than the SVO logo.

    Here is the FRPP version of the above page:



    The following page from the Ford Motorsport SVO instructions shows the HEGO harness and the part numbers. Use this harness for your FMS/FRPP SFI computer main harness and you're screwed.



    Here is the correct harness and part number from the FRPP instruction:



    And what would any instructions be without some misinformation:



    Huh?

    Here's the same page from the updated FRPP version:



    So, hopefully the above will prevent some folks from tearing out their hair trying to figure out why their conversion didn't work.


    (This is posted with tongue firmly in cheek - I've made many more false starts, wrong conclusions and bad information. But I try to correct them when discovered...)

    Dean T
    Last edited by Dean_T; 05-18-2011 at 11:37 PM.
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  16. #66
    Malleus Banificarum
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    ^^^^

    One of the best tech posts I've ever, ever seen.

  17. #67
    Neither here nor there
    Capriman86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FEP Admin View Post
    ^^^^

    One of the best tech posts I've ever, ever seen.
    ^^^^ LIES

  18. #68
    Malleus Banificarum
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capriman86 View Post
    ^^^^ LIES

    LIES! LIES! LIES!

  19. #69
    FEP Super Member 80Notch's Avatar
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    im gonna assume thats why ford motorsport dont exist anymore lmao!
    <Dayne>
    1985 Monte Carlo SS 5.7
    1993 Civic Coupe JDM B16A1
    1982 Mustang GT 5.0
    1980 Mustang Notchback 5.0
    1993 Civic SI D16Z6
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    1978 Honda Accord CVCC 1.6
    1983 Camaro Berlinetta 2.8
    1981 Mustang Notchback ...Engineless...again

  20. #70
    FEP Power Member 85Coupe50's Avatar
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    This is my main issue... see edit in pic.

    Only 1 Four eye left now and it is a 64 fairlane 2 door post! Think 408W with Griggs GR350 suspension!

  21. #71
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Dean,
    While the statement in the FMS instructions on crimp connectors would seem to be inconsistant I understand what they are saying. A properly crimped connection as is done at the harness factory between the connector contacts and the conductors is a very reliable long term interconnect. However many wire-to-wire 'field' crimps using generic off the shelf crimp barrels and crimp splices applied with inadequate or incorrect tooling are very unreliable and make poor connections leading to poor signal transmission. Although more difficult a properly made solder joint made in the field can be very reliable long term. That is not to say that all solder joints are reliable. Poor solder joints made by operaters with inadequate soldering skills/training can be just a unreliable as poorly made crimp joints.

    I worked in the aerospace/military/industrial electronics industry for over 20 years designing high reliability electrical and electronic equipment.
    Last edited by TWR2003; 05-18-2011 at 09:45 PM.
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  22. #72
    FEP Super Member TWR2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85Coupe50 View Post
    This is my main issue... see edit in pic.
    You cannot disregard this connection. This is part of the NGS circuit and used by the EEC to signal the positions of the clutch and transmission gears to use to sense load.
    MF: Shoot pool Fast Eddie.
    EF: Im shootin' pool Fats. When I miss you can shoot.

  23. #73

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    85Coupe50,

    I'm glad you've brought this up. My diagram for the '86 connectors was incomplete. I did a continuity check of the BLK-W wire and the LB-Y wire and confirmed my hunch. Here is Revision 1 of my '86 Connector layout diagram:



    The BLK-W wire in the black 8-pin connector does the same thing as the same colored wire in the '88 , '89 and also the early '90 wire harness. It is the signal return for the trans neutral and clutch sensor switches. In the case of the '86 wire harness, the LB-Y wire goes to pin 30 on the EEC. I believe this is a "positive" voltage.

    TWR2003 mentions this is an important circuit so I drew up the next wiring schematic:



    This drawing shows the entire circuit but note the '86, '87, and non-Calif. '88 SEFI does not do the HEGO harness jumper thang.

    Something odd is it seems the '86 doesn't bother to note if the auto trans is in park or neutral but the '88-'93 does. This is handled through the W-P and P-Y wires.

    Hopefully these drawings will be useful.

    Dean T
    Last edited by Dean_T; 05-18-2011 at 11:49 PM.
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  24. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by TWR2003 View Post
    Dean,
    While the statement in the FMS instructions on crimp connectors would seem to be inconsistant I understand what they are saying. A properly crimped connection as is done at the harness factory between the connector contacts and the conductors is a very reliable long term interconnect. However many wire-to-wire 'field' crimps using generic off the shelf crimp barrels and crimp splices applied with inadequate or incorrect tooling are very unreliable and make poor connections leading to poor signal transmission. Although more difficult a properly made solder joint made in the field can be very reliable long term. That is not to say that all solder joints are reliable. Poor solder joints made by operaters with inadequate soldering skills/training can be just a unreliable as poorly made crimp joints.

    I worked in the aerospace/military/industrial electronics industry for over 20 years designing high reliability electrical and electronic equipment.
    That makes sense. Industrial crimping tools crimp pins depending on the gauge of wires - crimp too much and the wires get smashed and then break in environments with vibration or thermal changes.

    I may have to re-examine some of my crimps!

    Dean T
    Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura

  25. #75
    FEP Power Member 85Coupe50's Avatar
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    TWR2003, Dean_T
    Thanks for the replies. This does help a LOT. I now know what needs to be done to finish up my conversion.

    I should hopefully have my 85 up and running be weekends end. Woo hoo....

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