Close



Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1

    Default Fox Continental Parts Interchange

    I found a mid-80's Continental in the yard today. It's got rear disc, which I believe is an 8.8 but I didn't look. It also had air suspension. I'm curious how much work it would take for the air ride on that car to be put on my '79 Z7? Also, is it worth it?

    I'm sure someone knows this as well, was it an 8.8 in that car? How would that particular rear end fit in my Z7??



    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member Ken P's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Woodstock, Georgia
    Posts
    3,213

    Default

    I wouldn't use the air suspension. I have it in my 92 Lincoln and it floats like a boat. Not the best suspension set-up for even mild performance or spirited driving. I've had to haul butt a few times in it and it can be quite scary.

    There is no real ride height adjustment like on the current air bag set ups for hot rods. There is a switch in the trunk for ride leveling but that is only for when there is a lot of luggage in the trunk to keep from dragging the rear bumper.

    Plus they can develop leaks which would be expected from a JY car that has been sitting. Plus when removing the system you would be breaking the factory seal on all the connections. Sounds like more of a headache than it could ever be worth.
    86 LX Coupe 4E
    84 SVO Watkins Glen Pace Car 1E
    85 SVO Hertz 4E
    85.5 SVO 2R orig owner
    86 SVO 7B
    66 Fastback
    55 Willys Jeep Overland Wagon

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    967

    Default

    The 5-lug setup is basically the SVO setup. Could be 8.8 or 7.5, though. Overall, a bit wide for a standard Fox (but can fit with high offset wheels).
    Look at converting to coils if you really want to make it work.
    The front ball joints are different so the spindles are useful only if you take the control arms. The control arms are longer, so again you will need to have wheel offsets allowing you to clear fenders and suspension.

    It's all possible; I did it in my old wagon (mostly). I got away with it using skinny 14" steel wheels (off a Ranger or a Crown Vic, now I can't remember). It took a lot of playing and fiddling and testing various parts. If you're getting the parts "cheap as free" and have plenty of time, play all you want.
    If you're in any sort of hurry or have the cash to pay for any sort of parts at all, don't go there. But you can take the calipers (front and rear) for use later (I think these have the 73mm fronts that are fairly desirable and you can make the rears work with custom brackets). Is it Racecars North that makes those custom brackets? I can't remember. But a lot of the other rear disc kits don't handle a parking brake; these do.

  4. #4

    Default

    Will the rear calipers work on my '97 8.8 with the use of those custom brackets?

    Is the M/C or Prop valve worth grabbing since I will be swapping to rear disc shortly...or would you just stick with the SN-95 parts.
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  5. #5
    New User
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Shepherdsville, Ky.
    Posts
    14

    Default

    All the Continental rear axles are 7.5 inches, regardless of engine size. Hope this helps.

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    967

    Default

    SN95 stuff is easier to find and probably cheaper at this point.
    I thought there were 8.8 Continental axles but I may be wrong. I know Trac-Lok was an option, so it might have that.

    My own feeling is just walk away and find a 94+ brake and axle setup. I had the Continental parts and SVO stuff for my old wagon, and after years of searching and tinkering to get the right parts in the right places, I never felt I had it "just right".

    Fast forward to my SN95 Mustangs and Chuck W's old Z7; that now has SN95 brakes and I'm confident that once the engine is in and the car is done, I'm just a twist of the proportioning valve away from having it set up right.

  7. #7

    Default

    Understood. I have SN-95 stuff done up front already, and have the disc brake rear but I still need all the lines, calipers, and brackets from an SN-95. So that has halted my mission.
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    San Leandro, Ca.
    Posts
    1,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mercuryzephyrz7 View Post
    Understood. I have SN-95 stuff done up front already, and have the disc brake rear but I still need all the lines, calipers, and brackets from an SN-95. So that has halted my mission.
    Have you used 'car-part' finder to look for some calipers locally?
    Just checked using 'Washington' there are a few yards that have SN95 calipers for $20 a pop. Even if they are not usable they could be used as cores. Just make sure the calipers come with the caliper cages. You still have the axle brackets from the Cobra rear correct?
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  9. #9

    Default

    I know the brackets to mount the cages are there...but i'm not sure exactly what the axle brackets are.
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  10. #10

    Default

    The air ride is not as bad as this thread is making them sound? I have a few mark vii's and they handle amazingly. If I'm not mistaken the conti's used the same bags. I really want one of those little 4 door Lincolns.

  11. #11

    Default

    my grandma got a 83 continental for her 25th wedding anniversary. it was silver of course.. i loved that car. but everyone who ever drove it said the same thing.... that it just didnt seem to handle right. even if you turned into your driveway a little faster than normal the car would bounce and you could hear the tires squealing, struggling, just boat-like handling. come around a curve a bit too fast and you were in for some major drama. it would scare ya.
    1979 Ford Fairmont Futura "The F Bomb"

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    San Leandro, Ca.
    Posts
    1,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mercuryzephyrz7 View Post
    I know the brackets to mount the cages are there...but i'm not sure exactly what the axle brackets are.
    The axle brackets are the ones that bolt directly to the axle housing ends. They are whats on that Cobra rearend assembly you have. They cannot be removed without taking the axles off first, and determine where the caliper assembly will be located.

    My previous comment was in reference to some yards will charge more if you want the caliper AND caliper cage. Which is what you currently need. SN95 calipers and caliper cages.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  13. #13

    Default

    Does it have hydro-boost? I read an article years ago about swapping hydro-boost from a lincoln continental into fox mustangs. If I recall correctly the only problem was the push rod itself. The linc has a straight rod whereas the mustang has a sort of hooked rod. Their remedy was to stack a couple of washers to angle the booster assembly slightly. I'm thinking about trying this hydro booster behind cobra brake conversion on my station wagon project.

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    967

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nelzfoxes View Post
    Does it have hydro-boost? I read an article years ago about swapping hydro-boost from a lincoln continental into fox mustangs. If I recall correctly the only problem was the push rod itself. The linc has a straight rod whereas the mustang has a sort of hooked rod. Their remedy was to stack a couple of washers to angle the booster assembly slightly. I'm thinking about trying this hydro booster behind cobra brake conversion on my station wagon project.
    Try an SN95 GT/Cobra booster. I'm using an entire Cobra steering/power steering/brakes/hydroboost setup in the Zephyr. I'm starting with the stock (Cobra) proportioning valve as my Zephyr should have similar weight distribution to the Cobra; if that isn't close enough I'll use an adjustable.

    I've got the booster physically installed in the Zephyr and there should be pics somewhere on here if you search; unfortunately I've not gotten much done on the Zephyr lately due to excessive projects ongoing...

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MAD MIKE View Post
    The axle brackets are the ones that bolt directly to the axle housing ends. They are whats on that Cobra rearend assembly you have. They cannot be removed without taking the axles off first, and determine where the caliper assembly will be located.

    My previous comment was in reference to some yards will charge more if you want the caliper AND caliper cage. Which is what you currently need. SN95 calipers and caliper cages.
    Oh Okay I follow. It really depends on the yard. Some yards will not care, and other will want another 5 or 10 bucks. I can also buy them new for 12. I found that SN-95 V6/GT rear calipers run about 60 bucks rebuilt from Autozone, but for some reason the SN-95 rear Cobra Calipers are 39 bucks rebuilt. I'll just buy the rebuilt Cobra peices and new cages and be done with it.

    Still need rear lines, m/c, and prop valve though....but i'll get there. Thanks Mad Mike
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  16. #16
    FEP User
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    greenville, ohio (above dayton)
    Posts
    98

    Default

    i have m/c that should work for ya.. i am having a brain fart at the moment, but i believe it has a 1" bore... brain just wont tell me what its from

  17. #17

    Default

    Yeah that would be cool! IS it one that will mount to my factory booster?
    '79 Z7 w/sunroof, first car, 302, 5-speed, 8.8 Rear Disc
    '68 Cougar 302 4v Auto
    '84 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    '03 F250 V10
    '04 Volkswagen Golf 2.0
    '07 Hyundai Entourage

  18. #18
    FEP User
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    greenville, ohio (above dayton)
    Posts
    98

    Default

    svo was the word i was looking for. here is a link to it
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=95760

  19. #19
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    San Leandro, Ca.
    Posts
    1,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Squeek View Post
    svo was the word i was looking for. here is a link to it
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=95760
    The SVO MCs 1-1/8" bore should only be used on cars equipped with the large 73mm/54mm Lincoln derived brake system.(4dr Conti/SVO/VII)
    A 1" bore MC would be best. Here is a list of the various MCs that are fitted to the Fox-Chasis cars, along with '85 TC and '73 LTD.

    1979 V8 RAYBESTOS Part # MC39037 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=7/8" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=
    1/2x20 Secondary Outlet Size=7/16x24} To 11/81

    1985 SVO RAYBESTOS Part # MC39447 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=1 1/8" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=9/16x18 Secondary Outlet Size=7/16x24}

    1985 GT RAYBESTOS Part # MC39531 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=21mm Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=9/16x18 Secondary Outlet Size=
    1/2x20} From 11/81

    1973 LTD RAYBESTOS Part # MC36397 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=1" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=9/16x18 Secondary Outlet Size=
    1/2x20}

    1985 TC RAYBESTOS Part # MC39467 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=1" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=7/16x24 Secondary Outlet Size=
    1/2x20}
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  20. #20
    FEP Power Member LTDScott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    2,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MAD MIKE View Post
    The SVO MCs 1-1/8" bore should only be used on cars equipped with the large 73mm/54mm Lincoln derived brake system.(4dr Conti/SVO/VII)
    A 1" bore MC would be best. Here is a list of the various MCs that are fitted to the Fox-Chasis cars, along with '85 TC and '73 LTD.

    1979 V8 RAYBESTOS Part # MC39037 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=7/8" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=
    1/2x20 Secondary Outlet Size=7/16x24} To 11/81

    1985 SVO RAYBESTOS Part # MC39447 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=1 1/8" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=9/16x18 Secondary Outlet Size=7/16x24}

    1985 GT RAYBESTOS Part # MC39531 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=21mm Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=9/16x18 Secondary Outlet Size=
    1/2x20} From 11/81

    1973 LTD RAYBESTOS Part # MC36397 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=1" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=9/16x18 Secondary Outlet Size=
    1/2x20}

    1985 TC RAYBESTOS Part # MC39467 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=1" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size=7/16x24 Secondary Outlet Size=
    1/2x20}
    I can confirm this. My LTD (94+ Cobra front brakes, Mark VII rear) had an SVO/Mk VII master cylinder, and the brake pedal was always very hard and required a lot of effort to get good braking. A step down to a 1" bore MC from an '85 Town Car made a huge difference and the brakes on my car now feel and work great.

    Nice job including fitting sizes, I had to do some junkyard scrounging to find hoses/fittings that would work.
    85 Ford LTD LX: Four eyes and Four doors

    EFI swap, AFR 165 heads, 5-speed conversion, Cobra brakes, etc.

  21. #21
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    967

    Default

    Does anyone have a similar list that covers SN95 cars also?

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    San Leandro, Ca.
    Posts
    1,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greywolf View Post
    Does anyone have a similar list that covers SN95 cars also?
    I'll whip one up in a moment, just remember that the SN95s used metric fittings. Easiest way to adapt would be to used one of MMs adapter line sets which replace the MC to combo valve lines.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  23. #23
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    San Leandro, Ca.
    Posts
    1,650

    Default

    93 Cobra RAYBESTOS Part # MC390125 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=1" Number of Ports=
    Primary Outlet Size=
    M10x1 Secondary Outlet Size= M12x1}

    94 GT RAYBESTOS Part # MC390185 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=1 1/16" Number of Ports=
    Primary Outlet Size=
    M10x1 Secondary Outlet Size= M12x1}

    94 Cobra RAYBESTOS Part # MC390217 {Professional Grade; Bore Size=15/16" Number of Ports=2
    Primary Outlet Size = M12x1 Secondary Outlet Size=
    M10x1}

    The '99-'04 GTs with twin 44mm pistons used a 1-1/16" MC.
    The later 4.6 cars use a different port configuration and would not be worth trying to retrofit to the Fox Chassis.
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

  24. #24
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    967

    Default

    Thanks, Mad Mike!

    I am redoing all lines with new and new fittings, so I'm not worried about the fittings so much.
    Interesting that the '94 Cobra vs GT has the primary/secondary sizes swapped.
    Right now I have a 2001 Cobra M/C and hydroboost; once I have a better idea of brake feel I may need to play with M/C sizes.

  25. #25
    FEP Power Member MAD MIKE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    San Leandro, Ca.
    Posts
    1,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greywolf View Post
    Interesting that the '94 Cobra vs GT has the primary/secondary sizes swapped.
    I believe this was done for ease on the assembly line. Cobra vs non Cobra.
    Quote Originally Posted by Greywolf View Post
    Right now I have a 2001 Cobra M/C and hydroboost; once I have a better idea of brake feel I may need to play with M/C sizes.
    Sorry I know nadda when it comes to the hydroboost systems. I'm going to go out on a limb here, albeit with the hydraulic assist the MCs across all hydroboost cars is probably the same. Probably all 1-1/16" bore. The only car that may not have hydroboost would be the V6 base cars. And even then the differences may just be if the car has ABS/TCS or not.
    I'll keep it simple and stick with my single diaphragm booster and 1" MC bore in my five door
    -Michael
    '79 Fairmont 5dr 'car guy safe' MM Tech Tips StopTech Brake Bias StopTech White Papers

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •