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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Desi's Avatar
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    Default Heater bypass....

    Ok, so I am having a Major overheating issue.. I am having to bypass the heater, but after this latest icident, I am thinking I may have the bypass hoses wrong. As it dits, I gave the top line on the pump going to the water-neck, and the intake is routed to the lower.. is this backwards? Anyone have a good pic. of how the bypass should be hooked up?

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Ltngdrvr's Avatar
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    Default

    The bypass hose usually goes to the upper pipe on the pump but it shouldn't make any difference. Both of those pipes on the pump are inlets.
    1979 Zephyr, EFI GT40P 5.0, Mac longtubes, Dynomax exhaust, AODE transmission, 3.27 geared 8.8, subframe connectors, Lakewood uppers/lowers, trunk mounted battery, fuel cell >
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    More GT40P info than you ever wanted to know...http://forums.corral.net/forums/show....php?t=1014187

  3. #3

    Default

    It would be really hard to get this wrong. The molded bypass hose won't reach
    over to the wrong fitting unless maybe if you're a gorilla. And like lightning says,
    it really doesn't matter.

    You've got 'em right.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member Desi's Avatar
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    Default

    Crap... was hoping this would be it. New waterpump & thermostat, & as soon as it gets to temp it bolts right on up.. I thought about having a block test run on it to see if it's got a headgasket leak, but was wanting to hold off on that.

  5. #5

    Default

    Are you using the stock gauge to measure temperature?

    Get another gauge if you can.

    -Mike

  6. #6

  7. #7

    Default

    Were you having overheating problems before you replaced the water pump
    and thermostat?
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Desi's Avatar
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    Default

    Radiator is out of an '88 t-bird (same car thte motor came from) only diff was the bird had an AOD, & was fuel injected. My radiator is full of crap, thats why I did the motorswap on it.. had oil in the old coolant system, & yes, stock gauge, but the boiling over the cap & blowing the hose off tells me it's not the gauge.

  9. #9

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    So a 20 year old radiator? That's probably been siting for 10 years?

    I would suspect either the clutch or the radiator then.

    -Mike

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member Desi's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by negusm View Post
    So a 20 year old radiator? That's probably been siting for 10 years?

    I would suspect either the clutch or the radiator then.

    -Mike
    Well.. when ya put it that way.. I'm not sure how long the bird was sitting since it was last driven, not more than a year tops, but no telling on it..thats where I am starting, at least. & I assume we are talking the fan clutch?

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member Ltngdrvr's Avatar
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    Default

    Fan clutch test is easy, get the car fully up to temp, shut it off and grab the fan blade and try and turn it. It should be very tight to turn, if it turns relatively easy then it's no good.
    1979 Zephyr, EFI GT40P 5.0, Mac longtubes, Dynomax exhaust, AODE transmission, 3.27 geared 8.8, subframe connectors, Lakewood uppers/lowers, trunk mounted battery, fuel cell >
    < My Photo Galleries: http://s474.photobucket.com/user/Ltn...?sort=3&page=6
    More GT40P info than you ever wanted to know...http://forums.corral.net/forums/show....php?t=1014187

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Desi's Avatar
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    Default

    Ahh, gotcha.. I am really wanting to move to an electric fan, but havent looked to hard in to the Alt. upgrade process..I understand I'd have to do that really before an elect. fan would be feasible.

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member Ltngdrvr's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Desi View Post
    Ahh, gotcha.. I am really wanting to move to an electric fan, but havent looked to hard in to the Alt. upgrade process..I understand I'd have to do that really before an elect. fan would be feasible.
    Depends on which fan you want to go with. If you pony up the bucks to go with the latest flexalite mustang fan, they only pull about 18 amps which the stock alternator should be able to handle.
    1979 Zephyr, EFI GT40P 5.0, Mac longtubes, Dynomax exhaust, AODE transmission, 3.27 geared 8.8, subframe connectors, Lakewood uppers/lowers, trunk mounted battery, fuel cell >
    < My Photo Galleries: http://s474.photobucket.com/user/Ltn...?sort=3&page=6
    More GT40P info than you ever wanted to know...http://forums.corral.net/forums/show....php?t=1014187

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member
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    Default

    you never clarified wether or not it was overheating before you replaced the waterpump/thermo.
    did you test the thermostat to see if it was bad?
    what brand thermostat did you get?
    "stant" thermostats fail right out of the box

    easier way to check the fan clutch is to spin the copper element thingy on the front around 180o. that disables the clutch and makes the fan solid. if it runs cooler your fan clutch is bad.

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member Desi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ductape91 View Post
    you never clarified wether or not it was overheating before you replaced the waterpump/thermo.
    did you test the thermostat to see if it was bad?
    what brand thermostat did you get?
    "stant" thermostats fail right out of the box

    easier way to check the fan clutch is to spin the copper element thingy on the front around 180o. that disables the clutch and makes the fan solid. if it runs cooler your fan clutch is bad.
    Not sure if it was or not, to be honest...the motor ran when we pulled it but dont really have a history on it, I DO know the old pump had been rebuilt, but had to replace the timing cover so decided it was a good idea to do the pump & themos. while we had it apart. And for thermostat I went with a mr. gasket, dont have the pt# at the moment, but I know it's opening & aloweing flow. I also discovered "several" holes on the radiator since I last posted...

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